DROPS Air
DROPS Air
 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 79.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24
  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Jumpers
  4. Basic
  5. DROPS
  6. 243
  7. 3

Green Whisper

Knitted sweater in DROPS Air and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with moss stitch, double neck, raglan and split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 243-3
DROPS Design: Pattern ai-461
Yarn group C + A + A or E
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 100-110-116-124-136-150 cm = 39⅜"-43⅜"-45¾"-48¾"-53½"-59"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color 42, pistachio ice cream
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
175-200-225-250-275-300 g color 47, pistachio ice cream

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM = US 10.75: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM = US 10.75.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm = 32" circular needle in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
12 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with moss stitch (A.1), 1 strand DROPS Air and 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jumpers Basic Jumpersassembly free double neck raglan round neck seed st top down
DROPS Air
DROPS Air
 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 79.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Comments (14)

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.
.
RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch before/after the 4 marker-stitches – hereafter called raglan-stitches. The raglan-stitches are knitted from the right side/purled from the wrong side.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over which is worked as follows on the next row/round (subsequently worked into A.1):

FROM THE WRONG SIDE:
BEFORE raglan-stitches:
Purl twisted if the stitch before is knitted, knit twisted if the stitch before is purled – no hole.
AFTER raglan-stitches:
Slip the yarn over knit-wise, insert the left needle and replace it reversed (twisted), purl if the next stitch is knitted, knit if the next stitch is purled – no hole.

FROM THE RIGHT SIDE:
BEFORE raglan-stitches:
Slip the yarn over knit-wise, insert the left needle and replace it reversed (twisted), knit if the stitch before is purled, purl if the stitch before is knitted – no hole.
AFTER raglan-stitches:
Knit twisted if the next stitch is purled, purl twisted if the next stitch is knitted – no hole.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over which is worked twisted on the next row/round to avoid a hole.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch alternately before and after the marker by knitting/purling 2 stitches together (depending on the pattern).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck is worked in the round with circular needle, from mid back and top down. A neckline is worked with short rows, back and forth with circular needle; then the yoke continued in the round with circular needle from mid back. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round to the split, then front piece and
back piece are worked separately back and forth to the finished measurements. The sleeves are worked with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

DOUBLE NECK:
Cast on 68-68-72-80-80-84 stitches with short circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75, 1 strand DROPS Air and 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk (3 strands). Change to short circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 11-11-11-13-13-13 cm = 4⅜"-4⅜"-4⅜"-5⅛"-5⅛"-5⅛".
Insert 4 markers without working the stitches and insert each marker in a purled stitch, which become raglan-stitches and are always knitted (seen from the right side).

Count 7-7-9-9-9-11 stitches (approx. half back piece), insert marker-1 in the next stitch, count 17-17-15-19-19-17 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-2 in the next stitch, count 15-15-19-19-19-23 stitches (front piece), insert marker-3 in the next stitch, count 17-17-15-19-19-17 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-4 in the next stitch. There are 8-8-10-10-10-12 stitches after the last marker (approx. half back piece).

Knit 1 round and decrease 4-4-0-4-4-0 stitches evenly as follows: Work past marker-1, decrease 2-2-0-2-2-0 stitches evenly between markers 1 and 2 (do not decrease the raglan-stitches), work past marker-3, decrease 2-2-0-2-2-0 stitches evenly between markers 3 and 4, work to end of round = 64-64-72-76-76-84 stitches.
There are 15-15-15-17-17-17 stitches between markers 1 and 2 and markers 3 and 4 (sleeves) and 15-15-19-19-19-23 stitches between markers 2 and 3 (front piece) and markers 4 and 1. Cut the strands.

NECKLINE:
Change to circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 and work short rows AT THE SAME TIME as you increase for raglan as described below. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE.
ROW 1 (right side): Start 2 stitches before raglan-stitch-3 (i.e., front left of neck when the garment is worn). Work A.1 (remember the 4 raglan-stitches are knitted from the right side/purled from the wrong side) and increase for RAGLAN on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches – read description above, until you have worked 2 stitches past raglan-stitch-2 (front right of neck = 8 increased stitches for raglan). Turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work A.1 (yarn overs worked as described under RAGLAN), until you have worked 2 stitches past the start of the short rows by marker-3. Turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 3 (right side): Work A.1 and increase for raglan on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches, until you have worked 2 stitches past where you turned last time by marker-2 (8 increased stitches). Turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 4 (wrong side): Work A.1 until you have worked 2 stitches past where you turned last time by marker-3. Turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 5 (right side): Work A.1 and increase for raglan on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches, until you have worked 2 stitches past where you turned last time by marker-2 (8 increased stitches). Turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 6 (wrong side): Work A.1 until you have worked 2 stitches past where you turned last time by marker-3. Cut the strands.

The short rows are finished and you have increased 3 times for raglan on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches = 88-88-96-100-100-108 stitches.

YOKE:
Start mid-back again and continue A.1 in the round (raglan-stitches are knitted every round). Continue to increase for raglan as follows:

Increase every 2nd round but every 2nd increase is only on the body (i.e., increase on the front/back pieces every 2nd round and on the sleeves every 4th round – alternately 4 and 8 increased stitches). Increase 12-14-18-18-20-20 times on the front/back pieces and 6-7-9-9-10-10 times on the sleeves = 160-172-204-208-220-228 stitches.
The sleeve increases are finished. Continue to increase on the front/back pieces 3-4-0-1-2-3 more times = 172-188-204-212-228-240 stitches.
All increases are now finished.
Continue working without further increases until the yoke measures 19-21-22-22-25-26 cm = 7½"-8¼"-8¾"-8¾"-9¾"-10¼", measured after the rib and down mid-back.

Divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work the first 26-29-31-32-35-38 stitches (half back piece), place the next 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 53-59-63-65-71-77 stitches (front piece), place the next 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the last 27-30-32-33-36-39 stitches (half back piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
= 120-132-140-148-164-180 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow them to follow you work onwards – they are used when dividing for the split in each side.
Continue A.1 in the round over all stitches.
When the body measures 21-21-22-23-22-23 cm = 8¼"-8¼"-8¾"-9"-8¾"-9" from the division, divide at both markers and finish each piece separately. One marker-stitch belongs to the front piece, the other to the back piece.

BACK PIECE:
= 60-66-70-74-82-90 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 17-19-19-23-23-25 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 77-85-89-97-105-115 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and work as follows from the wrong side: 1 GARTER STITCH – read description above, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm = 3⅛". Bind off. You can use Italian bind-off – see video under Tips and Help on our web site.

FRONT PIECE:
= 60-66-70-74-82-90 stitches. Work in the same way as the back piece.

SLEEVES:
Place the 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 7 MM = US 10.75 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 40-42-46-50-54-56 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker and continue A.1 in the round over all stitches.
When the sleeve measures 4-4-4-4-3-3 cm = 1½"-1½"-1½"-1½"-1⅛"-1⅛" from the division, decrease 1 stitch before the marker – read DECREASE TIP. When the sleeve measures 12-12-8-7-5-5 cm = 4¾"-4¾"-3⅛"-2¾"-2"-2", decrease 1 stitch after the marker – remember DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this, alternately before and after the marker every 8-8-4-3-2-2 cm = 3⅛"-3⅛"-1½"-1⅛"-¾"-¾" a total of 4-4-8-10-14-14 times (2-2-4-5-7-7 times before the marker and 2-2-4-5-7-7 times after the marker) = 36-38-38-40-40-42 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 37-36-35-35-33-33 cm = 14½"-14¼"-13¾"-13¾"-13"-13" from the division. Knit 1 round and increase 14-14-16-16-18-18 stitches evenly spaced = 50-52-54-56-58-60 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 5.5 MM = US 9 and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 10 cm = 4". Bind off. You can use Italian bind-off. The sleeve measures approx. 47-46-45-45-43-43 cm = 18½"-18"-17¾"-17¾"-17"-17".
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
diagram
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (14)

country flag Caro wrote:

Für die doppelte Halsblende (Gr. XL): man hat 80M auf der Nadel und soll nach 9M 1. Markierer, nach 19M 2. Markierer, wieder 19M 3. Markierer und wieder 19M 4. Markierer. Dann sollen laut Anleitung noch 10M bis Runde zuende übrig sein, aber es sind 14M. 9+19+19+19+10 = 76M 9+19+19+19+14 = 80M Ich bin verwirrt! Alles danach macht auch keinen Sinn mehr. Wenn ich dann 4M abnehme, komm ich auf 76M insgesamt, was je 19M zw jedem Markierer macht und nicht mal 17M und mal 19M! Bitte Hilfe!

20.04.2024 - 17:46

DROPS Design answered:

Libe Caro, die 4 Markieren sollen je in einer Masche und nicht zwischen Maschen eingesetzt werden, so haben Sie: 9+1+19+1+19+1+19+1+10=80 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

22.04.2024 - 07:54

country flag Pille wrote:

Hello I am wondering if the amount of kid silk needed for the project is correct. If I need 300g of Air (sizeM) it will be 6 skeins (50g) x150m= 900m total. The instructions says, that I need 200g of Kid-Silk, it would be 8skeins(25g)x 210m=1680m. Something must be wrong with amount request?!

28.02.2024 - 21:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Pille, but you work here with 2 strands Kid-Silk, so 200 g = 1680 m Kid-Silk / 2 strands = 840 m, which is matching the meterage in Air. Happy knitting!

29.02.2024 - 08:16

country flag Céline wrote:

Rectification : cela cree une côte *au milieu du Dos * (pas du devant)

29.01.2024 - 12:51

country flag Céline wrote:

Bonjour, j’ai la même question qu’Hannah car le problème n’est pas résolu. Je suis en train de tricoter le début de l’empiècement, j’ai 96 mailles. Je termine mon tour par une maille envers, et pour respecter le point de riz, je dois commencer le tour suivant aussi par une maille envers... cela va donc créer une côte en plein milieu du devant... Où est l’erreur...? Merci 👍

29.01.2024 - 12:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Céline, les mailles des raglans vont toujours être tricotées à l'endroit, autrement dit, vous allez tricoter alternativement 1 m end, 1 m env sur les mailles du dos, 1 maille endroit tous les tours pour le raglan, le point de riz sur les manches, 1 maille endroit tous les rangs pour le raglan, le point de riz sur le devant, 1 maille endroit tous les tours pour le raglan, le point de riz sur la manche, 1 maille endroit pour le raglan, et le point de riz sur le reste du dos; au tour suivant, tricotez les mailles point de riz comme avant (les mailles endroit à l'envers et les mailles envers à l'endroit et tricotez les mailles des raglans à l'endroit. Bon tricot!

30.01.2024 - 07:31

country flag Sara wrote:

Se è corretta la vostra risposta a Michel del 04/12/2023, allora c'è un errore sullo collo per la taglia M. Come fanno ad esserci 68 maglie se 7+17+19+17+8 = 68 più le 4 maglie per il raglan fa 72!

18.01.2024 - 15:20

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Sara, grazie per la segnalazione: abbiamo corretto il numero di maglie per il davanti. Buon lavoro!

17.03.2024 - 18:03

country flag Sissel Bergtun wrote:

Hvor viser mønster A1 som det vises til?

18.01.2024 - 07:51

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Sissel. Hele genseren strikkes i A.1 (perlestrikk), bortsett fra halskanten, vrangbordene og raglanlinjen. mvh DROPS Design

18.01.2024 - 10:24

country flag MICHEL wrote:

Il y a une erreur dans le patron du pull 243-3 Taille S Avec 68 mailles au départ pour le col comment peut-on avoir 64 mailles avant les diminutions ? 7+17+15+17+8 = 64 mailles ?

04.12.2023 - 15:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Michel, notez que les marqueurs des raglans se mettent dans une maille (et pas entre 2 mailles), ainsi vous avez bien vos 64 mailles décrites + 4 mailles (chacune avec un marqueur) = 68 mailles. Bon tricot!

04.12.2023 - 16:17

country flag Hanna wrote:

Hei, Ohjevideolla neuvotaan tekemään helmineuletta suljettuna neuleena parittomalla määrällä silmukoita. Ohjeessa kuitenkin on parillinen määrä kun jatketaan kauluksen ja lisäysten jälkeen. Miten helmineuleen saa mennään oikein?

11.11.2023 - 12:53

DROPS Design answered:

Kun työssä on parillinen määrä silmukoita, helmineule neulotaan siten, että neulotaan vuorotellen 1 silmukka oikein ja 1 silmukka nurin. Seuraavalla kerroksella oikeat silmukat neulotaan nurin ja nurjat silmukat neulotaan oikein.

14.11.2023 - 18:04

country flag Sue wrote:

Guten Tag Der Bund am Hals wird doppelt gestrickt. Wird dies direkt am Anfang als Doppeltes Bündchen gestrickt (doppelte Maschenanzahl und nur jede 2. Masche wird gestrickt?) oder wird er ‚normal‘ gestrickt und dann am Ende eingeschlagen und festgenäht? Freundliche Grüsse

22.10.2023 - 20:43

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Sue, in diesem Modell wird der Hals am Ende umgeschlagen und festgenäht (siehe FERTIGSTELLEN, aber gerne können Sie auch nach den 11 oder 13 cm Bündchen eine Runde stricken und gleichzeitig die Maschen von der Anschlagskante zusammenstricken so brauchen Sie später keine Naht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

23.10.2023 - 10:11

country flag Müller wrote:

An sich wunderschöner Pullover, hätte mir nur gewünscht dass nicht alles immer so weit ist. Ärmel und unten sieht immer ausgeleiert aus

29.08.2023 - 15:06

Green Whisper



Knitted sweater in DROPS Air and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with moss stitch, double neck, raglan and split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 243-3
DROPS Design: Pattern ai-461
Yarn group C + A + A or E
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 100-110-116-124-136-150 cm = 39⅜"-43⅜"-45¾"-48¾"-53½"-59"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color 42, pistachio ice cream
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
175-200-225-250-275-300 g color 47, pistachio ice cream

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM = US 10.75: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM = US 10.75.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm = 32" circular needle in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
12 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with moss stitch (A.1), 1 strand DROPS Air and 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.
.
RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch before/after the 4 marker-stitches – hereafter called raglan-stitches. The raglan-stitches are knitted from the right side/purled from the wrong side.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over which is worked as follows on the next row/round (subsequently worked into A.1):

FROM THE WRONG SIDE:
BEFORE raglan-stitches:
Purl twisted if the stitch before is knitted, knit twisted if the stitch before is purled – no hole.
AFTER raglan-stitches:
Slip the yarn over knit-wise, insert the left needle and replace it reversed (twisted), purl if the next stitch is knitted, knit if the next stitch is purled – no hole.

FROM THE RIGHT SIDE:
BEFORE raglan-stitches:
Slip the yarn over knit-wise, insert the left needle and replace it reversed (twisted), knit if the stitch before is purled, purl if the stitch before is knitted – no hole.
AFTER raglan-stitches:
Knit twisted if the next stitch is purled, purl twisted if the next stitch is knitted – no hole.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over which is worked twisted on the next row/round to avoid a hole.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch alternately before and after the marker by knitting/purling 2 stitches together (depending on the pattern).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck is worked in the round with circular needle, from mid back and top down. A neckline is worked with short rows, back and forth with circular needle; then the yoke continued in the round with circular needle from mid back. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round to the split, then front piece and
back piece are worked separately back and forth to the finished measurements. The sleeves are worked with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

DOUBLE NECK:
Cast on 68-68-72-80-80-84 stitches with short circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75, 1 strand DROPS Air and 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk (3 strands). Change to short circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 11-11-11-13-13-13 cm = 4⅜"-4⅜"-4⅜"-5⅛"-5⅛"-5⅛".
Insert 4 markers without working the stitches and insert each marker in a purled stitch, which become raglan-stitches and are always knitted (seen from the right side).

Count 7-7-9-9-9-11 stitches (approx. half back piece), insert marker-1 in the next stitch, count 17-17-15-19-19-17 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-2 in the next stitch, count 15-15-19-19-19-23 stitches (front piece), insert marker-3 in the next stitch, count 17-17-15-19-19-17 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-4 in the next stitch. There are 8-8-10-10-10-12 stitches after the last marker (approx. half back piece).

Knit 1 round and decrease 4-4-0-4-4-0 stitches evenly as follows: Work past marker-1, decrease 2-2-0-2-2-0 stitches evenly between markers 1 and 2 (do not decrease the raglan-stitches), work past marker-3, decrease 2-2-0-2-2-0 stitches evenly between markers 3 and 4, work to end of round = 64-64-72-76-76-84 stitches.
There are 15-15-15-17-17-17 stitches between markers 1 and 2 and markers 3 and 4 (sleeves) and 15-15-19-19-19-23 stitches between markers 2 and 3 (front piece) and markers 4 and 1. Cut the strands.

NECKLINE:
Change to circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 and work short rows AT THE SAME TIME as you increase for raglan as described below. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE.
ROW 1 (right side): Start 2 stitches before raglan-stitch-3 (i.e., front left of neck when the garment is worn). Work A.1 (remember the 4 raglan-stitches are knitted from the right side/purled from the wrong side) and increase for RAGLAN on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches – read description above, until you have worked 2 stitches past raglan-stitch-2 (front right of neck = 8 increased stitches for raglan). Turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Work A.1 (yarn overs worked as described under RAGLAN), until you have worked 2 stitches past the start of the short rows by marker-3. Turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 3 (right side): Work A.1 and increase for raglan on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches, until you have worked 2 stitches past where you turned last time by marker-2 (8 increased stitches). Turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 4 (wrong side): Work A.1 until you have worked 2 stitches past where you turned last time by marker-3. Turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 5 (right side): Work A.1 and increase for raglan on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches, until you have worked 2 stitches past where you turned last time by marker-2 (8 increased stitches). Turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 6 (wrong side): Work A.1 until you have worked 2 stitches past where you turned last time by marker-3. Cut the strands.

The short rows are finished and you have increased 3 times for raglan on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches = 88-88-96-100-100-108 stitches.

YOKE:
Start mid-back again and continue A.1 in the round (raglan-stitches are knitted every round). Continue to increase for raglan as follows:

Increase every 2nd round but every 2nd increase is only on the body (i.e., increase on the front/back pieces every 2nd round and on the sleeves every 4th round – alternately 4 and 8 increased stitches). Increase 12-14-18-18-20-20 times on the front/back pieces and 6-7-9-9-10-10 times on the sleeves = 160-172-204-208-220-228 stitches.
The sleeve increases are finished. Continue to increase on the front/back pieces 3-4-0-1-2-3 more times = 172-188-204-212-228-240 stitches.
All increases are now finished.
Continue working without further increases until the yoke measures 19-21-22-22-25-26 cm = 7½"-8¼"-8¾"-8¾"-9¾"-10¼", measured after the rib and down mid-back.

Divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work the first 26-29-31-32-35-38 stitches (half back piece), place the next 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 53-59-63-65-71-77 stitches (front piece), place the next 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the last 27-30-32-33-36-39 stitches (half back piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
= 120-132-140-148-164-180 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow them to follow you work onwards – they are used when dividing for the split in each side.
Continue A.1 in the round over all stitches.
When the body measures 21-21-22-23-22-23 cm = 8¼"-8¼"-8¾"-9"-8¾"-9" from the division, divide at both markers and finish each piece separately. One marker-stitch belongs to the front piece, the other to the back piece.

BACK PIECE:
= 60-66-70-74-82-90 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 17-19-19-23-23-25 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP = 77-85-89-97-105-115 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and work as follows from the wrong side: 1 GARTER STITCH – read description above, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm = 3⅛". Bind off. You can use Italian bind-off – see video under Tips and Help on our web site.

FRONT PIECE:
= 60-66-70-74-82-90 stitches. Work in the same way as the back piece.

SLEEVES:
Place the 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 7 MM = US 10.75 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 40-42-46-50-54-56 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker and continue A.1 in the round over all stitches.
When the sleeve measures 4-4-4-4-3-3 cm = 1½"-1½"-1½"-1½"-1⅛"-1⅛" from the division, decrease 1 stitch before the marker – read DECREASE TIP. When the sleeve measures 12-12-8-7-5-5 cm = 4¾"-4¾"-3⅛"-2¾"-2"-2", decrease 1 stitch after the marker – remember DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this, alternately before and after the marker every 8-8-4-3-2-2 cm = 3⅛"-3⅛"-1½"-1⅛"-¾"-¾" a total of 4-4-8-10-14-14 times (2-2-4-5-7-7 times before the marker and 2-2-4-5-7-7 times after the marker) = 36-38-38-40-40-42 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 37-36-35-35-33-33 cm = 14½"-14¼"-13¾"-13¾"-13"-13" from the division. Knit 1 round and increase 14-14-16-16-18-18 stitches evenly spaced = 50-52-54-56-58-60 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 5.5 MM = US 9 and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 10 cm = 4". Bind off. You can use Italian bind-off. The sleeve measures approx. 47-46-45-45-43-43 cm = 18½"-18"-17¾"-17¾"-17"-17".
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.

Diagram explanations
symbol = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbol = purl from right side, knit from wrong side

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