Blue Pebbles by DROPS Design
Knitted sweater for baby in DROPS BabyMerino. The piece is worked top down with saddle-shoulders. Sizes: Premature to 2 years.
Keywords:
assembly free, long sleeves, round neck, saddle shoulder, stocking stitch, sweater, top down
DROPS Baby 43-4
DROPS Design: Pattern bm-125-by
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
(<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 years)
Child’s height in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)
Child’s height in feet:
(1ft4/1ft5) 1ft/1ft8 - 1ft 10/2ft - 2ft3/2ft5 - 2ft7/2ft9 - (3ft)
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: (38) 44-50-54-58 (62) cm = (15") 17 1/4"-19 3/4"-21 1/4"-22 3/4" (24 3/8")
Full length: (20) 24-28-30-33 (36) cm = (8") 9 1/2"-11"-11 3/4"-13" (14 1/4")
All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(100) 100-150-150-150 (200) g color 37, light lavender
DROPS BUTTONS NO 627: 3 items in all sizes, for split mid-back.
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 40 cm = 16”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5: Length 40 cm = 16”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.
KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
DROPS Design: Pattern bm-125-by
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
(<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 years)
Child’s height in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)
Child’s height in feet:
(1ft4/1ft5) 1ft/1ft8 - 1ft 10/2ft - 2ft3/2ft5 - 2ft7/2ft9 - (3ft)
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: (38) 44-50-54-58 (62) cm = (15") 17 1/4"-19 3/4"-21 1/4"-22 3/4" (24 3/8")
Full length: (20) 24-28-30-33 (36) cm = (8") 9 1/2"-11"-11 3/4"-13" (14 1/4")
All measurements in charts are in cm.
MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(100) 100-150-150-150 (200) g color 37, light lavender
DROPS BUTTONS NO 627: 3 items in all sizes, for split mid-back.
NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 40 cm = 16”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5: Length 40 cm = 16”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.
KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.
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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here.
There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here.
For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
INCREASE TIP-1 (saddle-shoulders, sleeves and yoke from the right side):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and knit stitch in front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and knit stitch in back loop.
INCREASE TIP-2 (for saddle-shoulders from the wrong side):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right (seen from the right side).
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and purl stitch in back loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left (seen from the right side).
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and purl stitch in front loop.
DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Start 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
BUTTONHOLES (for band mid-back):
Work the buttonholes at the beginning of the row from the right side as follows: Knit 2, make 1 yarn over and knit 2 together On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures 1½ cm = 1/2”, the other 2 buttonholes are worked with (2) 2-2½-2½-3 (3) cm = (3/4") 3/4"-1"-1"-1 1/8" (1 1/8") between each one.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid back and top down, until the split is finished. The piece is then joined and continued in the round. At the same time, stitches are increased for the shoulders, sleeves and yoke. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.
SWEATER:
Cast on (70) 74-78-82-86 (94) stitches with circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and DROPS Baby Merino. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 4 stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 2 and 4 stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for (2) 2-2-3-3 (3) cm = (3/4") 3/4"-3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" (1 1/8") – remember the BUTTONHOLE at the beginning of the row from the right side – read description above.
When the rib is done, knit 1 row from the right side where you increase (6) 10-10-14-14 (14) stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands on each side) = (76) 84-88-96-100 (108) stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side (bands knitted).
YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5. Insert 1 marker after the band mid-back; the yoke is measured from this marker!
In addition, insert 4 other markers without working the stitches and insert each marker between 2 stitches; these markers are used when increasing for the shoulders and should have a different color to the marker on the neck.
Marker 1: Start mid-back and count (15) 17-18-18-19-21 stitches (½ back piece), insert the marker before the next stitch.
Marker 2: Count (10) 10-10-14-14 (14) stitches from marker 1 (shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch.
Marker 3: Count (26) 30-32-32-34 (38) stitches from marker 2 (front piece), insert the marker before the next stitch.
Marker 4: Count (10) 10-10-14-14 (14) stitches from marker 3 (shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch.
There are (15) 17-18-18-19 (21) stitches left after marker 4 (½ back piece).
Allow these markers to follow your work onwards.
INCREASES FOR SADDLE-SHOULDERS:
Read the next section before continuing – on the first row from the right side, increase 4 stitches for the saddle-shoulders as follows:
Work stockinette stitch and 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.
Increase BEFORE markers 1 and 3 and AFTER markers 2 and 4 – read INCREASE TIP-1. You are only increasing on the front and back pieces. The number of shoulder stitches remains the same.
On the next row from wrong side, increase 4 stitches as follows:
Increase BEFORE markers 4 and 2 and AFTER markers 3 and 1 – read INCREASE TIP-2.
You are increasing on EACH row but differently from the right and wrong side so the stitches lie neatly.
Continue like this, increasing a total of (10) 10-10-12-12 (12) times on every row (both from right side and wrong side) = (116) 124-128-144-148 (156) stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
After the last increase, the piece measures approx. (3) 3-3-4-4 (4) cm = (1 1/8") 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/2"-1 1/2" (1 1/2") from the marker on the neck. Now increase for the sleeves as follows – at the same time, the piece is joined mid-back as described below. Read INCREASES TO SLEEVES and SPLIT MID-BACK before continuing!
INCREASES TO SLEEVES:
Continue with stockinette stitch and 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.
AT THE SAME TIME, on the next row from the right side increase 4 stitches for the sleeves as follows:
Increase AFTER markers 1 and 3 and BEFORE markers 2 and 4 – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
You are only increasing on the sleeves and the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same. Increase like this every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of (10) 12-11-9-9 (10) times.
The piece measures approx. (9) 11-10-9-9 (10) cm = (3 1/2") 4 3/8"-4"-3 1/2"-3 1/2" (4") from the marker on the neck. Now increase for the yoke as follows.
After these increases are finished and the piece has been joined mid-back (as described below), there are (152) 168-168-176-180 (192) stitches. Then continue with increases to yoke.
SPLIT MID-BACK:
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures (6) 6-7-7-8 (8) cm = (2 3/8") 2 3/8"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8" (3 1/8") from the cast-on edge, the split is finished. Work from the right side as far as the 4 band-stitches at the end of the row. Lay the 4 band stitches at the beginning of the row on top of these last 4 stitches, with the buttonholes on top. Knit the stitches from both bands together 2 and 2 (4 stitches decreased). Continue working in the round (after the join the sleeve increases continue every 2nd round instead of each row from the right side). On the first round after the join, purl the 4 stitches from the bands. Then continue with stockinette stitch over all stitches. NOTE: The beginning of the round is moved to the middle of these 4 stitches.
INCREASES TO YOKE:
SIZE (<0):
= (152) stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch but without increasing until the piece measures 10 cm = 4” from the marker on the neck. Go to ‘Divide for the body and sleeves’ below.
SIZES 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 years):
Move the 4 markers so each marker sits in the outermost stitch on each side of the back and front pieces, with 34-32-32-32 (34) stitches between the marker-stitches on the sleeves.
On the next round increase 8 stitches by increasing both before and after each marker-stitch – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
You are now increasing on the front and back pieces as well as the sleeves.
Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 1-3-4-5 (5) times = 176-192-208-220 (232) stitches.
After the last increase, the piece measures approx. 11-12-12-13 (13) cm = 4 3/8"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5 1/8" (5 1/8") from the marker on the neck. Continue working until the piece measures 11-12-12-13 (14) cm = 4 3/8"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5 1/8" (5 1/2") from the marker.
DIVIDE FOR THE BODY AND SLEEVES:
Work the first (21) 24-27-29-31 (33) stitches (½ back piece), place the next (34) 40-42-46-48 (50) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) stitches (in side under sleeve), work (42) 48-54-58-62 (66) stitches (front piece), place the next (34) 40-42-46-48 (50) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) stitches (in side under sleeve), work the last (21) 24-27-29-31 (33) stitches (½ back piece).
The body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.
BODY:
= (92) 104-120-128-140 (148) stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the cast-on stitches under 1 sleeve. Work stockinette stitch as far as the marker – the round now starts here. Continue with stockinette stitch until the piece measures (5) 8-11-12-14 (16) cm = (2") 3 1/8"-4 3/8"-4 3/4"-5 1/2" (6 1/4") from the division. Knit 1 round where you increase (12) 16-16-20-20 (20) stitches evenly spaced = (104) 120-136-148-160 (168) stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 3 cm = 1 1/8". Bind off a little loosely.
The sweater measures approx. (20) 24-28-30-33 (36) cm = (8") 9 1/2"-11"-11 3/4"-13" (14 1/4") from the shoulder down.
SLEEVES:
Place the (34) 40-42-46-48 (50) stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) stitches cast on under the sleeve = (38) 44-48-52-56 (58) stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) stitches under the sleeve. Start at the marker and work stockinette stitch in the round for 1 cm = 3/8". Now decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve (does not apply to sizes <0 and 0/1 month) – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3rd round a total of (0) 2-2-3-4 (4) times = (38) 40-44-46-48 (50) stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures (4) 8-10-13-15 (18) cm = (1 1/2") 3 1/8"-4"-5 1/8"-6" (7") from the division. There is approx. 3 cm = 1 1/8" to finished length; try the sweater on and work to desired length.
Knit 1 round where you decrease (2) 0-0-2-0 (2) stitches evenly spaced = (36) 40-44-44-48 (48) stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 3 cm = 1 1/8". Bind off a little loosely The sleeve measures approx. (7) 11-13-16-18 (21) cm = (2 3/4") 4 3/8"-5 1/8"-6 1/4"-7" (8 1/4") from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the band mid-back.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.
INCREASE TIP-1 (saddle-shoulders, sleeves and yoke from the right side):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and knit stitch in front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and knit stitch in back loop.
INCREASE TIP-2 (for saddle-shoulders from the wrong side):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right (seen from the right side).
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and purl stitch in back loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left (seen from the right side).
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and purl stitch in front loop.
DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Start 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).
BUTTONHOLES (for band mid-back):
Work the buttonholes at the beginning of the row from the right side as follows: Knit 2, make 1 yarn over and knit 2 together On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures 1½ cm = 1/2”, the other 2 buttonholes are worked with (2) 2-2½-2½-3 (3) cm = (3/4") 3/4"-1"-1"-1 1/8" (1 1/8") between each one.
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START THE PIECE HERE:
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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid back and top down, until the split is finished. The piece is then joined and continued in the round. At the same time, stitches are increased for the shoulders, sleeves and yoke. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.
SWEATER:
Cast on (70) 74-78-82-86 (94) stitches with circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and DROPS Baby Merino. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 4 stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 2 and 4 stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for (2) 2-2-3-3 (3) cm = (3/4") 3/4"-3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" (1 1/8") – remember the BUTTONHOLE at the beginning of the row from the right side – read description above.
When the rib is done, knit 1 row from the right side where you increase (6) 10-10-14-14 (14) stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands on each side) = (76) 84-88-96-100 (108) stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side (bands knitted).
YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5. Insert 1 marker after the band mid-back; the yoke is measured from this marker!
In addition, insert 4 other markers without working the stitches and insert each marker between 2 stitches; these markers are used when increasing for the shoulders and should have a different color to the marker on the neck.
Marker 1: Start mid-back and count (15) 17-18-18-19-21 stitches (½ back piece), insert the marker before the next stitch.
Marker 2: Count (10) 10-10-14-14 (14) stitches from marker 1 (shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch.
Marker 3: Count (26) 30-32-32-34 (38) stitches from marker 2 (front piece), insert the marker before the next stitch.
Marker 4: Count (10) 10-10-14-14 (14) stitches from marker 3 (shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch.
There are (15) 17-18-18-19 (21) stitches left after marker 4 (½ back piece).
Allow these markers to follow your work onwards.
INCREASES FOR SADDLE-SHOULDERS:
Read the next section before continuing – on the first row from the right side, increase 4 stitches for the saddle-shoulders as follows:
Work stockinette stitch and 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.
Increase BEFORE markers 1 and 3 and AFTER markers 2 and 4 – read INCREASE TIP-1. You are only increasing on the front and back pieces. The number of shoulder stitches remains the same.
On the next row from wrong side, increase 4 stitches as follows:
Increase BEFORE markers 4 and 2 and AFTER markers 3 and 1 – read INCREASE TIP-2.
You are increasing on EACH row but differently from the right and wrong side so the stitches lie neatly.
Continue like this, increasing a total of (10) 10-10-12-12 (12) times on every row (both from right side and wrong side) = (116) 124-128-144-148 (156) stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
After the last increase, the piece measures approx. (3) 3-3-4-4 (4) cm = (1 1/8") 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/2"-1 1/2" (1 1/2") from the marker on the neck. Now increase for the sleeves as follows – at the same time, the piece is joined mid-back as described below. Read INCREASES TO SLEEVES and SPLIT MID-BACK before continuing!
INCREASES TO SLEEVES:
Continue with stockinette stitch and 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.
AT THE SAME TIME, on the next row from the right side increase 4 stitches for the sleeves as follows:
Increase AFTER markers 1 and 3 and BEFORE markers 2 and 4 – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
You are only increasing on the sleeves and the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same. Increase like this every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of (10) 12-11-9-9 (10) times.
The piece measures approx. (9) 11-10-9-9 (10) cm = (3 1/2") 4 3/8"-4"-3 1/2"-3 1/2" (4") from the marker on the neck. Now increase for the yoke as follows.
After these increases are finished and the piece has been joined mid-back (as described below), there are (152) 168-168-176-180 (192) stitches. Then continue with increases to yoke.
SPLIT MID-BACK:
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures (6) 6-7-7-8 (8) cm = (2 3/8") 2 3/8"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8" (3 1/8") from the cast-on edge, the split is finished. Work from the right side as far as the 4 band-stitches at the end of the row. Lay the 4 band stitches at the beginning of the row on top of these last 4 stitches, with the buttonholes on top. Knit the stitches from both bands together 2 and 2 (4 stitches decreased). Continue working in the round (after the join the sleeve increases continue every 2nd round instead of each row from the right side). On the first round after the join, purl the 4 stitches from the bands. Then continue with stockinette stitch over all stitches. NOTE: The beginning of the round is moved to the middle of these 4 stitches.
INCREASES TO YOKE:
SIZE (<0):
= (152) stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch but without increasing until the piece measures 10 cm = 4” from the marker on the neck. Go to ‘Divide for the body and sleeves’ below.
SIZES 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 years):
Move the 4 markers so each marker sits in the outermost stitch on each side of the back and front pieces, with 34-32-32-32 (34) stitches between the marker-stitches on the sleeves.
On the next round increase 8 stitches by increasing both before and after each marker-stitch – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
You are now increasing on the front and back pieces as well as the sleeves.
Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 1-3-4-5 (5) times = 176-192-208-220 (232) stitches.
After the last increase, the piece measures approx. 11-12-12-13 (13) cm = 4 3/8"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5 1/8" (5 1/8") from the marker on the neck. Continue working until the piece measures 11-12-12-13 (14) cm = 4 3/8"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5 1/8" (5 1/2") from the marker.
DIVIDE FOR THE BODY AND SLEEVES:
Work the first (21) 24-27-29-31 (33) stitches (½ back piece), place the next (34) 40-42-46-48 (50) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) stitches (in side under sleeve), work (42) 48-54-58-62 (66) stitches (front piece), place the next (34) 40-42-46-48 (50) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) stitches (in side under sleeve), work the last (21) 24-27-29-31 (33) stitches (½ back piece).
The body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.
BODY:
= (92) 104-120-128-140 (148) stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the cast-on stitches under 1 sleeve. Work stockinette stitch as far as the marker – the round now starts here. Continue with stockinette stitch until the piece measures (5) 8-11-12-14 (16) cm = (2") 3 1/8"-4 3/8"-4 3/4"-5 1/2" (6 1/4") from the division. Knit 1 round where you increase (12) 16-16-20-20 (20) stitches evenly spaced = (104) 120-136-148-160 (168) stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 3 cm = 1 1/8". Bind off a little loosely.
The sweater measures approx. (20) 24-28-30-33 (36) cm = (8") 9 1/2"-11"-11 3/4"-13" (14 1/4") from the shoulder down.
SLEEVES:
Place the (34) 40-42-46-48 (50) stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) stitches cast on under the sleeve = (38) 44-48-52-56 (58) stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) stitches under the sleeve. Start at the marker and work stockinette stitch in the round for 1 cm = 3/8". Now decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve (does not apply to sizes <0 and 0/1 month) – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3rd round a total of (0) 2-2-3-4 (4) times = (38) 40-44-46-48 (50) stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures (4) 8-10-13-15 (18) cm = (1 1/2") 3 1/8"-4"-5 1/8"-6" (7") from the division. There is approx. 3 cm = 1 1/8" to finished length; try the sweater on and work to desired length.
Knit 1 round where you decrease (2) 0-0-2-0 (2) stitches evenly spaced = (36) 40-44-44-48 (48) stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 3 cm = 1 1/8". Bind off a little loosely The sleeve measures approx. (7) 11-13-16-18 (21) cm = (2 3/4") 4 3/8"-5 1/8"-6 1/4"-7" (8 1/4") from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the band mid-back.
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..
Updated online: 18.11.2022
INCREASES TO SLEEVES: ... Increase AFTER markers 1 and 3 and BEFORE markers 2 and 4 – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
INCREASES TO SLEEVES: ... Increase AFTER markers 1 and 3 and BEFORE markers 2 and 4 – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
|
= knitting direction |
|
= increases to saddle-shoulders |
|
= increases to sleeves |
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= increases to yoke |
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We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 293 catalogs and 10968 patterns - 10964 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Hola tengo la misma duda que Line.no entiendo como se cierra el borde de la abertura de espalda, no hay un video explicativo? muchas gracia , muy lindos patrones
20.05.2023 - 22:36DROPS Design answered:
Hola Carmen, no, no tenemos vídeos explicativos de esta parte. Para cerrar el borde de la apertura, colocar la cenefa de los ojales sobre la cenefa de los botones. Ahora, trabajar juntos el 1º punto de la cenefa de los ojales junto con el último punto de la cenefa de los botones, trabajar juntos el 2º punto de la cenefa de los ojales con el penúltimo punto de la cenefa de los botones. Continuar de esta manera hasta haber trabajado todos los puntos juntos.
21.05.2023 kl. 19:03Hi, tension mentions the dimension but not the needles. What needles does one knit 24stitchesx32rows to achieve 10x10?
19.11.2022 - 14:51DROPS Design answered:
Dear Maria, the smaller needles are only used for the rib. The gauge is worked with the needles for the main pattern, that is, the 3mm needles. Happy knitting!
21.11.2022 kl. 00:42Hallo zusammen, Bei den Ärmelzunahmen schreibt ihr (wenn ich es richtig verstehe), dass man nach dem 1. und 3. und vor dem 2. und 4. Makierer zunehmen soll, so wie es in Zunahmetipp 2 beschrieben ist. Zunahmetipp 2 bezieht sich aber auf links zugenommene Maschen und ich stricke hier ja rechts in Runden (ich habe bereits zur Runde geschlossen). Ist das richtig so? Oder muss ich mich an Zumahmetipp 1 halten? Vielleicht könnt ihr helfen! Danke im Voraus, Viele Grüße, Lynn
27.09.2022 - 15:28DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Lynn, Zunahmetipp-2 gilt nur wenn man in Reihen strickt = wie man bei den Rückreihen zunimmt, wenn Sie in Runden stricken, dann folgen Sie Zunahmetipp-1 bei jeder Runde (= immer bei den Hinreihen). Stimmt aber Ihre Maschenprobe? Die Arbeit wird nach 3-4 cm in Runden gearbeitet, dh nach Ärmelzunahmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
27.09.2022 kl. 16:05Could you please explain this part of the pattern? 4 stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 2 and 4 stitches in garter stitch. I assume I do the garter k2, p2 until there is 6 stitches left, but then Im confused by the next part could you help please?
27.09.2022 - 14:51DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Byrne, start row with 4 sts in garter stitch, then work ribbing (K2,P2) over all stitches until 6 sts remain before end of row, and finish with K2, 4 sts in garter stitch. From WS work: 4 sts in garter stitch, (P2, K2) until 6 sts remain, finish row with P2, and 4 sts in garter stitch. Happy knitting!
27.09.2022 kl. 15:59Est-ce que vous pourriez m'envoyer un vidéo-tutoriel pour savoir comment procéder pour: Poser les 4 mailles de bordure devant au début du rang au-dessus de ces 4 dernières mailles, en plaçant celle avec les boutonnières au-dessus. Tricoter ensemble 2 par 2 à l'endroit les mailles des deux bordures (on diminue 4 mailles). Merci !
14.09.2022 - 16:04DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Line, nous n'avons pas encore de vidéo pour cette technique, vous devez maintenant diminuer les mailles de l'une des bordure de boutonnage (et non celles de la bordure devant, correction faite, merci pour votre retour), ainsi, vous allez poser les 4 mailles de la bordure sur les 4 mailles de l'autre bordure et tricoter ces mailles ensemble 2 par 2 à l'endroit: tricotez la 1ère m de chacune des bordure ensemble, puis la 2ème m de chacune des bordures ensemble, et ainsi de suite. En espérant que ce soit un peu plus clair ainsi. Bon tricot!
14.09.2022 kl. 16:37Lorsqu'on est rendu à faire augmentation des manches, doit-on faire selon les indications avec augmentation-1 qui donne information des augmentations à l'endroit. ?
14.09.2022 - 03:19DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Line, vous devez suivre augmentation-1. Merci de l'avoir notifie. Nous allons corriger cela. Bon tricot!
14.09.2022 kl. 08:11Comment joindre l'ouvrage au milieu dos ? Je n'ai rien trouvé dans les vidéos. Merci !
14.09.2022 - 02:06DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Line, regardez la video ICI. Bon tricot!
14.09.2022 kl. 07:19I opskriften skriver I "husk UDTAGNINGSTIPS-2" (brugt på vrangen), når man skal tage ud til ærmerne (på retsiden). Men i toppen, under UDTAGNINGSTIPS-1, står der, at denne skal bruges til ærmerne. Den er også egnet til retsiden. Er det korrekt, at jeg skal bruge UDTAGNINGSTIPS-2 til at lave ret udtagning ved ærmet, eller...??
13.06.2022 - 23:25DROPS Design answered:
Hei Christine. UDTAGNINGSTIPS-1 (gælder udtagning til sadelskulder, ærmer og bærestykke fra retsiden), altså ikke bare til erme. UDTAGNINGSTIPS-2 (gælder udtagning til sadelskulder fra vrangen), altså bare sadelskulder. mvh DROPS Design
20.06.2022 kl. 11:41In the instructions for the JUMPER, it first says 'continue this rib for 3 cm', then it has a comment about remembering to do the buttonhole, then it says 'when the rib measures 4 cm, knit 1 row from the right side'. So should the ribbing be 3cm or 4 cm? Thank you!
08.05.2022 - 05:18DROPS Design answered:
Dear Anna, you need to work the rib 3 cm. The 4 cm sentence seems to be a typo; we will correct it as soon as possible. Thank you. Happy knitting!
08.05.2022 kl. 19:14In the instructions for the JUMPER, it first says 'continue this rib for 3 cm', then it has a comment about remembering to do the buttonhole, then it says 'when the rib measures 4 cm, knit 1 row from the right side'
08.05.2022 - 05:17DROPS Design answered:
Dear Anna, please see answer above.
08.05.2022 kl. 19:14