DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

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DROPS Buttons
Sheep No. 627

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DROPS Needles & Hooks

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Blue Pebbles

Knitted sweater for baby in DROPS BabyMerino. The piece is worked top down with saddle-shoulders. Sizes: Premature to 2 years.

DROPS Baby 43-4

#bluepebblessweater

DROPS Design: Pattern bm-125-by
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
(<0) 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 years)
Child’s height in cm:
(40/44) 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92)
Child’s height in feet:
(1ft4/1ft5) 1ft/1ft8 - 1ft 10/2ft - 2ft3/2ft5 - 2ft7/2ft9 - (3ft)

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: (38) 44-50-54-58 (62) cm = (15") 17¼"-19¾"-21¼"-22¾" (24⅜")
Full length: (20) 24-28-30-33 (36) cm = (8") 9½"-11"-11¾"-13" (14¼")
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
(100) 100-150-150-150 (200) g color 37, light lavender

DROPS BUTTONS NO 627: 3 items in all sizes, for split mid-back.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 40 cm = 16".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5: Length 40 cm = 16".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32" in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Baby Baby Jumpers assembly free round neck saddle shoulder stocking stitch top down

DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Buttons
Sheep No. 627

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.10$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1 (saddle-shoulders, sleeves and yoke from the right side):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and knit stitch in front loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left.
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and knit stitch in back loop.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for saddle-shoulders from the wrong side):
BEFORE MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the right (seen from the right side).
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and purl stitch in back loop.
AFTER MARKER:
The new stitch twists to the left (seen from the right side).
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and purl stitch in front loop.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Start 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES (for band mid-back):
Work the buttonholes at the beginning of the row from the right side as follows: Knit 2, make 1 yarn over and knit 2 together On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures 1½ cm = ½", the other 2 buttonholes are worked with (2) 2-2½-2½-3 (3) cm = (3/4") ¾"-1"-1"-1⅛" (1⅛") between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid back and top down, until the split is finished. The piece is then joined and continued in the round. At the same time, stitches are increased for the shoulders, sleeves and yoke. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

SWEATER:
Cast on (70) 74-78-82-86 (94) stitches with circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and DROPS Baby Merino. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 4 stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 2 and 4 stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for (2) 2-2-3-3 (3) cm = (3/4") ¾"-¾"-1⅛"-1⅛" (1⅛") – remember the BUTTONHOLE at the beginning of the row from the right side – read description above.
When the rib is done, knit 1 row from the right side where you increase (6) 10-10-14-14 (14) stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands on each side) = (76) 84-88-96-100 (108) stitches.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side (bands knitted).

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5. Insert 1 marker after the band mid-back; the yoke is measured from this marker!
In addition, insert 4 other markers without working the stitches and insert each marker between 2 stitches; these markers are used when increasing for the shoulders and should have a different color to the marker on the neck.
Marker 1: Start mid-back and count (15) 17-18-18-19-21 stitches (½ back piece), insert the marker before the next stitch.
Marker 2: Count (10) 10-10-14-14 (14) stitches from marker 1 (shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch.
Marker 3: Count (26) 30-32-32-34 (38) stitches from marker 2 (front piece), insert the marker before the next stitch.
Marker 4: Count (10) 10-10-14-14 (14) stitches from marker 3 (shoulder), insert the marker before the next stitch.
There are (15) 17-18-18-19 (21) stitches left after marker 4 (½ back piece).
Allow these markers to follow your work onwards.

INCREASES FOR SADDLE-SHOULDERS:
Read the next section before continuing – on the first row from the right side, increase 4 stitches for the saddle-shoulders as follows:
Work stockinette stitch and 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.
Increase BEFORE markers 1 and 3 and AFTER markers 2 and 4 – read INCREASE TIP-1. You are only increasing on the front and back pieces. The number of shoulder stitches remains the same.
On the next row from wrong side, increase 4 stitches as follows:
Increase BEFORE markers 4 and 2 and AFTER markers 3 and 1 – read INCREASE TIP-2.
You are increasing on EACH row but differently from the right and wrong side so the stitches lie neatly.
Continue like this, increasing a total of (10) 10-10-12-12 (12) times on every row (both from right side and wrong side) = (116) 124-128-144-148 (156) stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
After the last increase, the piece measures approx. (3) 3-3-4-4 (4) cm = (1⅛") 1⅛"-1⅛"-1½"-1½" (1½") from the marker on the neck. Now increase for the sleeves as follows – at the same time, the piece is joined mid-back as described below. Read INCREASES TO SLEEVES and SPLIT MID-BACK before continuing!

INCREASES TO SLEEVES:
Continue with stockinette stitch and 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.
AT THE SAME TIME, on the next row from the right side increase 4 stitches for the sleeves as follows:
Increase AFTER markers 1 and 3 and BEFORE markers 2 and 4 – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
You are only increasing on the sleeves and the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same. Increase like this every 2nd row (each row from the right side) a total of (10) 12-11-9-9 (10) times.
The piece measures approx. (9) 11-10-9-9 (10) cm = (3½") 4⅜"-4"-3½"-3½" (4") from the marker on the neck. Now increase for the yoke as follows.
After these increases are finished and the piece has been joined mid-back (as described below), there are (152) 168-168-176-180 (192) stitches. Then continue with increases to yoke.

SPLIT MID-BACK:
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures (6) 6-7-7-8 (8) cm = (2⅜") 2⅜"-2¾"-2¾"-3⅛" (3⅛") from the cast-on edge, the split is finished. Work from the right side as far as the 4 band-stitches at the end of the row. Lay the 4 band stitches at the beginning of the row on top of these last 4 stitches, with the buttonholes on top. Knit the stitches from both bands together 2 and 2 (4 stitches decreased). Continue working in the round (after the join the sleeve increases continue every 2nd round instead of each row from the right side). On the first round after the join, purl the 4 stitches from the bands. Then continue with stockinette stitch over all stitches. NOTE: The beginning of the round is moved to the middle of these 4 stitches.

INCREASES TO YOKE:
SIZE (<0):
= (152) stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch but without increasing until the piece measures 10 cm = 4" from the marker on the neck. Go to ‘Divide for the body and sleeves’ below.

SIZES 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 years):
Move the 4 markers so each marker sits in the outermost stitch on each side of the back and front pieces, with 34-32-32-32 (34) stitches between the marker-stitches on the sleeves.
On the next round increase 8 stitches by increasing both before and after each marker-stitch – remember INCREASE TIP-1.
You are now increasing on the front and back pieces as well as the sleeves.
Increase like this every 2nd round a total of 1-3-4-5 (5) times = 176-192-208-220 (232) stitches.
After the last increase, the piece measures approx. 11-12-12-13 (13) cm = 4⅜"-4¾"-4¾"-5⅛" (5⅛") from the marker on the neck. Continue working until the piece measures 11-12-12-13 (14) cm = 4⅜"-4¾"-4¾"-5⅛" (5½") from the marker.

DIVIDE FOR THE BODY AND SLEEVES:
Work the first (21) 24-27-29-31 (33) stitches (½ back piece), place the next (34) 40-42-46-48 (50) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) stitches (in side under sleeve), work (42) 48-54-58-62 (66) stitches (front piece), place the next (34) 40-42-46-48 (50) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) stitches (in side under sleeve), work the last (21) 24-27-29-31 (33) stitches (½ back piece).
The body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE.

BODY:
= (92) 104-120-128-140 (148) stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the cast-on stitches under 1 sleeve. Work stockinette stitch as far as the marker – the round now starts here. Continue with stockinette stitch until the piece measures (5) 8-11-12-14 (16) cm = (2") 3⅛"-4⅜"-4¾"-5½" (6¼") from the division. Knit 1 round where you increase (12) 16-16-20-20 (20) stitches evenly spaced = (104) 120-136-148-160 (168) stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 3 cm = 1⅛". Bind off a little loosely.
The sweater measures approx. (20) 24-28-30-33 (36) cm = (8") 9½"-11"-11¾"-13" (14¼") from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the (34) 40-42-46-48 (50) stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) stitches cast on under the sleeve = (38) 44-48-52-56 (58) stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the (4) 4-6-6-8 (8) stitches under the sleeve. Start at the marker and work stockinette stitch in the round for 1 cm = ⅜". Now decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve (does not apply to sizes <0 and 0/1 month) – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3rd round a total of (0) 2-2-3-4 (4) times = (38) 40-44-46-48 (50) stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures (4) 8-10-13-15 (18) cm = (1½") 3⅛"-4"-5⅛"-6" (7") from the division. There is approx. 3 cm = 1⅛" to finished length; try the sweater on and work to desired length.
Knit 1 round where you decrease (2) 0-0-2-0 (2) stitches evenly spaced = (36) 40-44-44-48 (48) stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 3 cm = 1⅛". Bind off a little loosely The sleeve measures approx. (7) 11-13-16-18 (21) cm = (2¾") 4⅜"-5⅛"-6¼"-7" (8¼") from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the band mid-back.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 18.11.2022
INCREASES TO SLEEVES: ... Increase AFTER markers 1 and 3 and BEFORE markers 2 and 4 – remember INCREASE TIP-1.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= knitting direction
	= increases to saddle-shoulders
	= increases to sleeves
	= increases to yoke

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Have you finished this pattern?
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Comments / Questions (14)

Olivia wrote:

Hallo, ich stricke zum ersten Mal einen Pullover. Nun habe ich gleich eine Frage zum Anfang. In der Anleitung steht "Anschlag: (70) 74-78-82-86 (94) Maschen auf Rundnadel Nr. 2,5 mit DROPS Baby Merino. 1 Rück-Reihe links stricken. Die Rückreihe soll also links gestrickt werden, aber was ist mit der Hinreihe? Wird die rechts gestrickt oder zählt die Aufnahme als Hinreihe? Über eine Antwort würde ich mich freuen. Danke und Grüße!

25.02.2024 - 04:09

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Olivia, bei diesem Pullover stricken Sie zuerst 1 Reihe links, diese Reihe ist eine Rückreihe; die nächste Reihe wird dann eine Hinreihe sein, und wird mit Bündchen gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.02.2024 - 08:59

Anne Christine wrote:

Hei, får ikke antall masker på ermet til å stemme. Starter med 14 masker, (str 18 mndr) øker 9 ganger (nå til sammen 32 masker) Bærestykkeøkning 5 ganger. Vil det da ikke være 42 masker til ermet? I oppskriften skal man sette 48 masker til ermet på en tråd?

06.11.2023 - 15:12

Hei Anne Christine. Det er bare å følge maskeantallet som er oppgitt i oppskriften. Noen ganger vil man ta masker fra forstykket/bakstykket og sette det til erme (etter man er ferdig økt) og det er gjort i denne oppskriften. mvh DROPS Design

13.11.2023 - 09:47

Signe wrote:

Det ville være rart, hvis der havde været et foto af bagsiden også, da det jo er der en væsentlig del af blusens detaljer er.

02.09.2023 - 14:11

Renee wrote:

Jag förstår inte riktigt hur jag ska lägga mina sista 4 och första 4 rätstickade maskor på varandra och sedan sticka ihop det. Jag är på delan vid ärmökning och sprund mitt bak och mitt arbete (1-3mån) mäter 7cm från upplggningskant. Det finns ingen video som visar hur man stickar ihop det och de första två varv efter det. Jag förstår inte hur man gör på en rundsticka.

20.08.2023 - 22:04

Hei. Når arbeidet måler 7 cm fra skal kantmaskene strikkes sammen, samtidig skal det strikkes rundt. Fra retten, strikk 4 masker riller, deretter glattstrikk til det gjenstår 4 masker på slutten av pinnen. Legg de 4 rillemaskene fra begynnelsen av pinnen ved siden av 4 rille maskene på slutten av pinne.Nå skal du strikke 1. rillemaske fra begynnelsen av pinnen sammen med 4. siste maske på pinnen (2 masker sammen = 1 maske), så strikker du 2. maske sammen med 3. siste maske, deretter 3. maske sammen med nest siste maske og til slutt siste maske sammen med 4. maske. Du har nå strikket 2 og 2 masker sammen og samtidig felt 4 masker. De 8 rillemaskene = 4 masker.

21.08.2023 - 14:20

Carmen Arteaga wrote:

Hola tengo la misma duda que Line.no entiendo como se cierra el borde de la abertura de espalda, no hay un video explicativo? muchas gracia , muy lindos patrones

20.05.2023 - 22:36

Hola Carmen, no, no tenemos vídeos explicativos de esta parte. Para cerrar el borde de la apertura, colocar la cenefa de los ojales sobre la cenefa de los botones. Ahora, trabajar juntos el 1º punto de la cenefa de los ojales junto con el último punto de la cenefa de los botones, trabajar juntos el 2º punto de la cenefa de los ojales con el penúltimo punto de la cenefa de los botones. Continuar de esta manera hasta haber trabajado todos los puntos juntos.

21.05.2023 - 19:03

Maria wrote:

Hi, tension mentions the dimension but not the needles. What needles does one knit 24stitchesx32rows to achieve 10x10?

19.11.2022 - 14:51

Dear Maria, the smaller needles are only used for the rib. The gauge is worked with the needles for the main pattern, that is, the 3mm needles. Happy knitting!

21.11.2022 - 00:42

Lynn wrote:

Hallo zusammen, Bei den Ärmelzunahmen schreibt ihr (wenn ich es richtig verstehe), dass man nach dem 1. und 3. und vor dem 2. und 4. Makierer zunehmen soll, so wie es in Zunahmetipp 2 beschrieben ist. Zunahmetipp 2 bezieht sich aber auf links zugenommene Maschen und ich stricke hier ja rechts in Runden (ich habe bereits zur Runde geschlossen). Ist das richtig so? Oder muss ich mich an Zumahmetipp 1 halten? Vielleicht könnt ihr helfen! Danke im Voraus, Viele Grüße, Lynn

27.09.2022 - 15:28

Liebe Lynn, Zunahmetipp-2 gilt nur wenn man in Reihen strickt = wie man bei den Rückreihen zunimmt, wenn Sie in Runden stricken, dann folgen Sie Zunahmetipp-1 bei jeder Runde (= immer bei den Hinreihen). Stimmt aber Ihre Maschenprobe? Die Arbeit wird nach 3-4 cm in Runden gearbeitet, dh nach Ärmelzunahmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

27.09.2022 - 16:05

Mathilda Byrne wrote:

Could you please explain this part of the pattern? 4 stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 2 and 4 stitches in garter stitch. I assume I do the garter k2, p2 until there is 6 stitches left, but then Im confused by the next part could you help please?

27.09.2022 - 14:51

Dear Mrs Byrne, start row with 4 sts in garter stitch, then work ribbing (K2,P2) over all stitches until 6 sts remain before end of row, and finish with K2, 4 sts in garter stitch. From WS work: 4 sts in garter stitch, (P2, K2) until 6 sts remain, finish row with P2, and 4 sts in garter stitch. Happy knitting!

27.09.2022 - 15:59

Line wrote:

Est-ce que vous pourriez m'envoyer un vidéo-tutoriel pour savoir comment procéder pour: Poser les 4 mailles de bordure devant au début du rang au-dessus de ces 4 dernières mailles, en plaçant celle avec les boutonnières au-dessus. Tricoter ensemble 2 par 2 à l'endroit les mailles des deux bordures (on diminue 4 mailles). Merci !

14.09.2022 - 16:04

Bonjour Line, nous n'avons pas encore de vidéo pour cette technique, vous devez maintenant diminuer les mailles de l'une des bordure de boutonnage (et non celles de la bordure devant, correction faite, merci pour votre retour), ainsi, vous allez poser les 4 mailles de la bordure sur les 4 mailles de l'autre bordure et tricoter ces mailles ensemble 2 par 2 à l'endroit: tricotez la 1ère m de chacune des bordure ensemble, puis la 2ème m de chacune des bordures ensemble, et ainsi de suite. En espérant que ce soit un peu plus clair ainsi. Bon tricot!

14.09.2022 - 16:37

Lorsqu'on est rendu à faire augmentation des manches, doit-on faire selon les indications avec augmentation-1 qui donne information des augmentations à l'endroit. ?

14.09.2022 - 03:19

Bonjour Line, vous devez suivre augmentation-1. Merci de l'avoir notifie. Nous allons corriger cela. Bon tricot!

14.09.2022 - 08:11

Blue Pebbles

Knitted sweater for baby in DROPS BabyMerino. The piece is worked top down with saddle-shoulders. Sizes: Premature to 2 years.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to work a sweater top down

How to read a schematic drawing

How to measure your tension/gauge

How to increase/decrease evenly!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn!

How to cast on

How to knitt stitches

How to purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

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Comments / Questions (14)

Blue Pebbles

Knitted sweater for baby in DROPS BabyMerino. The piece is worked top down with saddle-shoulders. Sizes: Premature to 2 years.

Diagram explanations

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	DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 100% Wool	4.55 $ /50g	Order
	DROPS Baby Merino mix 100% Wool	4.55 $ /50g	Order

	DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 100% Wool 4.55 $ /50g Order
	DROPS Baby Merino mix 100% Wool 4.55 $ /50g Order