DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Colorful Walk

Knitted sweater in DROPS Fabel and DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked bottom up with ribbed edges. Sizes XS - XXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 231-11
DROPS Design: Pattern no fa-489
Yarn group A + C
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL – XXL
Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 100-106-116-126-134-144 cm = 39⅜"-41¾"-45¾"-49½"-52¾"-56½"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-200-250-250-250-300 g color 904, lavender
And use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
125-150-150-175-175-200 g color 01, off white

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM = US 11: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM = US 11.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32" in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
12 stitches in width and 14 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jumpers boat neck bottom up sewn in sleeves stocking stitch

DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.75$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the number of stitches to be decreased/increased over (e.g. 96 stitches), and divide by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 36) = 2.6. In this example, decrease by alternately knitting together each 1st and 2nd stitch and each 2nd and 3rd stitch.
When increasing, make 1 yarn over after alternately each 2nd and 3rd stitch. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker sits between these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The back and front pieces are worked separately, back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle. The pieces are sewn together and the neck worked in the round to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 92-96-108-116-124-136 stitches with circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, work A.1 until there are 3 stitches left, work the first 2 stitches in A.1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this rib back and forth for 10 cm = 4".
Work the next row from the right side as follows: Knit all stitches and decrease 32-32-38-42-44-48 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP, cast on 1 new stitch at the end of the row (= edge stitch).
Change to circular needle size 8 MM = US 11. Work back from the wrong side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl to the end of the row and cast on 1 stitch (= edge stitch) = 62-66-72-76-82-90 stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm = 14½"-15"-15¼"-15¾"-16⅛"-16½", cast on 1 stitch at the end of the next 2 rows = 64-68-74-78-84-92 stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm = 15¾"-16½"-17¼"-18"-19"-19¾".
Now work a row of holes as follows:
1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 1-1-2-2-1-1 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.2 until there are 2-2-1-1-2-2 stitches left, 1-1-2-2-1-1 stitches in stockinette stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When A.2 is finished, increase 12-16-18-18-20-20 stitches evenly on the next row from the wrong side – remember DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 76-84-92-96-104-112 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8.
Work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until there are 3 stitches left, work the first 2 stitches in A.1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 9 cm = 3½". Now place the middle 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches on a thread for the neck and finish each shoulder separately. On the next row from the neck bind off the first 2 stitches. On the next row from the neck, work the 2 outermost stitches from neck together (1 stitch decreased) = 20-24-28-28-32-36 stitches on the shoulder.
Continue the rib with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side for 12 cm = 4¾". Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 4-5-6-6-7-8 stitches evenly spaced = 16-19-22-22-25-28 stitches on the shoulder.
Change to circular needle size 8 MM = US 11. Bind off with purl from the wrong side.
The piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼" from the shoulder down. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work in the same way as the back piece until the front piece measures 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm = 15¾"-16½"-17¼"-18"-19"-19¾". Now work a row of holes in the same way as on the back piece.
When A.2 is finished, increase 12-16-18-18-20-20 stitches on the next row from the wrong side = 76-84-92-96-104-112 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8.
Work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until there are 3 stitches left, work the first 2 stitches in A.1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue this rib for 6 cm = 2⅜". Now place the middle 18-18-18-22-22-22 stitches on a thread for the neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then bind off on each row from the neck as follows: 4 stitches 1 time and 2 stitches 2 times. On the next row from the neck, work the 2 outermost stitches from neck together (1 stitch decreased) = 20-24-28-28-32-36 stitches on the shoulder.
Continue the rib with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side for 12 cm = 4¾". Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 4-5-6-6-7-8 stitches evenly spaced = 16-19-22-22-25-28 stitches on the shoulder.
Change to circular needle size 8 MM = US 11. Bind off with purl from the wrong side.
The piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼" from the shoulder down. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 52-52-52-56-56-56 stitches with double pointed needles size 5 MM = US 8 and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Work A.1 in the round for 10 cm = 4", knit 1 round where you decrease 22-21-20-22-21-20 stitches evenly spaced = 30-31-32-34-35-36 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 8 MM = US 11. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (= mid-under sleeve).
Work 2 rounds of stockinette stitch.
Now work a round of holes as follows:
Knit 1-1-2-1-1-2, work A.2 until there are 1-2-2-1-2-2 stitches left, knit 1-2-2-1-2-2.
When A.2 is finished continue with stockinette stitch until the sleeve measures 13 cm = 5⅛". Now increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 7½-6-4½-4½-3½-3½ cm = 2⅞"-2⅜"-1⅝"-1⅝"-1¼"-1¼" a total of 5-6-7-7-8-8 times = 40-43-46-48-51-52 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch until the sleeve measures 47-46-44-44-42-40 cm = 18½"-18"-17¼"-17¼"-16½"-15¾". Bind off.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the bind-off edge. Sew in the sleeves. Sew the side seams, leaving a 10 cm = 4" split at the bottom.

NECK:
Start on the top of one shoulder with short circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Knit up from the right side as follows: 8 stitches between the shoulder seam and the stitches on the thread in front, work the 18-18-18-22-22-22 stitches from the thread in rib as before, knit up 8 stitches as far as the other shoulder seam, knit up 2 stitches after the seam, work the 30-30-30-34-34-34 stitches from the thread in rib as before, knit up 2 stitches back to the seam = 68-68-68-76-76-76 stitches.
Work A.1 in the round for 4 to 5 cm = 1½" to 2" (or desired length) – make sure the rib matches over the stitches from the threads. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= knit twisted from right side, purl twisted from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
	= knit 2 together
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn over to leave a hole
	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (17)

SABINE wrote:

Je vous emercie de votre réponse datée de 16h. Ok pour l'échantillon avec aiguille n°8. MMais attention ! vous me dites 108 pour taille L ? or sur le modèle j'ai bien vérifié 108 m sont pour la taille M ! nous sommes d'accord ?

03.04.2024 - 16:12

DROPS Design answered:

Tout à fait Sabine, la taille M est bien ici la 3ème taille vu que ce modèle commence en taille XS. Bon tricot!

04.04.2024 - 08:48

Bonjour, après avoir fait mon échantillon qui faisait bien 10X10 avec aiguille n°5, j'ai monté porle dos 108 m comme indiqué pour la taille M, et commencer à tricoter les côtes. Mais mon ouvrage me paraît "immense" sur les aiguilles, et si je mesure déjà la moitié du rang que je tricote, je devrais avoir la moitié de 58 cm de largeur indiqué et j'ai 35 cm pour une demi largeur !!! je ne sais pas quoi faire

03.04.2024 - 15:02

Bonjour Sabine, l'échantillon de 12 mailles x 14 rangs en jersey se tricote avec les aiguilles 8 et 1 fil de chaque qualité (2 fils au total); comme on tricote les côtes avec des aiguilles plus fines, il faudra davantage de mailles que pour le jersey, raison pour laquelle on a autant de mailles à monter mais après les côtes, on va diminuer, autrement dit en taille L on commence par 108 mailles en côtes avec les aiguilles 5 mais on va diminuer 48 mailles avant de continuer avec les aiguilles 8 et donc 72 mailles qui feront environ 58 cm (sans les mailles lisières sur la base de l'échantillon). Bon tricot!

03.04.2024 - 16:00

Sara Rose wrote:

Can't seem to get circular needles in 40cm, only 80cm, so what is 'magic loop'? Hoping it's simple...

16.03.2024 - 16:32

Dear Sara, here is a video on the MAGIC LOOP technique. I hope this helps! Happy Knitting!

17.03.2024 - 10:23

Marie wrote:

Då står det ”på nästa varv från halsen maskas det av 2 maskor” Hur ska dessa maskor maskas av? Jämt fördelande under varvet eller i halskanten? Ser det inte konstigt ut när man fortsätter med resåren om man tar dem mitt i varvet? Då blir det inte två räta två aviga två räta när man fortsätter upp med axeln?

03.03.2024 - 14:30

Hej Marie, det er de 2 yderste masker mod halsen du maskar av (ikke jævnt fordelt) :)

05.03.2024 - 14:59

Hej! Jag är tveksam till ”hålvarvet” , kan man hoppa över det och gå direkt till att öka maskor och sedan resåren? Eller blir det konstigt då?

14.02.2024 - 08:31

Hej Marie, det går helt fint, bare du har det rigtige antal masker :)

22.02.2024 - 11:36

Danka Falconer-Bannon wrote:

Hello I love the design & colour combination of the 2 yarns in 'Colorful Walk'. in larger part the colours which are soft & pastel. However, having found the colours given in the instructions of the pattern I see that the colours of the Fabel yarn in question is nothing like the main picture shown on the pattern which is soft. The Fabel col 904 Lavender seems quite unlike the pattern picture. Please advise. Many thanks and kind regards Danka

22.07.2023 - 13:08

Dar Danka, this softness and pastel delicacy is the result of the combination of colorful Fabel and the fluffy Brushed Alpaca Silk :-) So yes, it is really Fabel 904 on the main pattern picture. Happy knitting!

23.07.2023 - 07:24

Aldona wrote:

Bardzo podoba mi się ten sweter (Colorful Walk). Połączono tu włóczki Fabel 904-lawenda i Brusched Alpaca Silk 01 ecru. Mam włóczkę Drops Brusched Alpaca Silk, ale w kolorze jasnoszarym (nr 02) z jaką włóczką Fabel mogłabym ją połączyć? Będę wdzięczna za sugestie.

19.07.2023 - 18:39

Witaj Aldono, to zależy jakie kolory preferujesz i jaki efekt chcesz uzyskać, czy jednolity, czy raczej melanż/bardziej kontrastowe przejścia. Jasny szary to neutralny delikatny kolor i możesz połączyć go w zasadzie z każdym kolorem. Proponuję spojrzeć na naszą stronę: w zakładce 'Włóczki i druty' znajdziesz link 'Połączenia włóczek'. Tam jest pokazanych na próbkach kilka kombinacji włóczki Fabel z Brushed Alpaca Silk. Mam nadzieję, że Cię zainspirują :) Pozdrawiamy!

20.07.2023 - 09:34

Marianne wrote:

Hej - denne strikkes frem og tilbage i retstrik - ret på hver pind = det bliver ikke glatstrik hos mig 🤔 Måske det er for længe siden jeg har strikket ☺️

29.04.2023 - 07:36

Hei Marianne. På vrangborden strikker du kun første og siste maske som strikkes i RETSTRIKK, altså rett fra retten og rett fra vrangen. Resten av vrangborden strikkes etter diagram A.1. Når vrangborden er ferdig, strikkes det glattstrikk, MEN fremdeles med 1 maske i hver side som strikkes i RETSTRIK (rett fra retten og rett fra vrangen). mvh DROPS Design

02.05.2023 - 10:07

Anette Bendix wrote:

Har strikket DROPS model 231-11 i garn som angivet, DROPS fabel og DROPS brushed alpaca silk.\r\nDa fabel er superwash og derfor anbefalet masinvask (har erfaring med at bluser i superwash bliver større ved håndvask) og brushed alpaca skal jo håndvaskes. Hvordan vasker jeg blusen i disse to garner?

15.11.2022 - 14:10

Liv wrote:

Hej! Undrar om det går att få reda på vilken storlek det är på tröjan som modellen har?

10.08.2022 - 10:19

Hej Liv, Størrelse M, men vælg den størrelse med de mål som passer dig i måleskitsen nederst i opskriften :)

10.08.2022 - 11:59

DROPS Fabel uni colour 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide	3.00 $ /50g	Order
DROPS Fabel print 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide	3.25 $ /50g	Order
DROPS Fabel long print 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide	3.50 $ /50g	Order

Colorful Walk

Knitted sweater in DROPS Fabel and DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked bottom up with ribbed edges. Sizes XS - XXL.

Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to read a schematic drawing

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure your tension/gauge

How to increase/decrease evenly!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn!

How to cast on

How to knitt stitches

How to purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

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Colorful Walk

Colorful Walk

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Colorful Walk

Knitted sweater in DROPS Fabel and DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked bottom up with ribbed edges. Sizes XS - XXL.

Diagram explanations

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	DROPS Fabel uni colour 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide 3.00 $ /50g Order
	DROPS Fabel print 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide 3.25 $ /50g Order
	DROPS Fabel long print 75% Wool, 25% Polyamide 3.50 $ /50g Order