Provence Dream by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with raglan, moss stitch and double neck. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 230-15
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-380
Yarn group C or A + A
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 96-102-110-120-132-142 cm = 37 3/4"-40"-43 3/8"-47 1/4"-52"-55 3/4"
Full length: 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm = 21 5/8"-22 1/2"-23 1/4"-24"-24 3/4"-25 1/2"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-350-350-400-450-500 g color 01, off white

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

-------------------------------------------------------

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------


65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 6.45 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 6.45 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 38.70$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of the 2 knitted stitches at each marker:
Work 1 stitch past the first marker, make 1 yarn over. Work until there is 1 stitch left before the next marker, make 1 yarn over. Increase like this at each marker. The increased stitches are knitted twisted on the next round then worked into the pattern.

DECREASE TIP:
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round. The sleeves are worked in the round, with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

DOUBLE NECK:
Cast on 100-100-110-120-120-130 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7 and DROPS Air.
Work rib in the round (knit 3, purl 2) for 4 cm = 1 1/2". Work the next round and decrease as follows: * Knit 1, knit 2 together, purl 2 *, work from *-* to the end of the round = 80-80-88-96-96-104 stitches.
Continue the new rib (knit 2, purl 2) until the neck measures 16 cm = 6 1/4". Knit 1 round.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round. The yoke is measured from this marker!
Insert 4 markers while working the stitches as follows: Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round, knit 1, work 12 stitches in pattern A.1 (sleeve), knit 2 and insert 1 marker between these 2 stitches, work 24-24-28-32-32-36 stitches in pattern A.1 (front piece), knit 2 and insert 1 marker between these 2 stitches, work 12 stitches in pattern A.1 (sleeve), knit 2 and insert 1 marker between these 2 stitches, work 24-24-28-32-32-36 stitches in pattern A.1 (back piece), knit 1.

READ THE NEXT SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
On the next round begin to increase to RAGLAN – read description above, while continuing with A.1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Increase to raglan every 2nd round a total of 21-24-26-28-31-33 times = 248-272-296-320-344-368 stitches.
Continue the pattern without further increases until the yoke measures 21-23-24-26-28-30 cm = 8 1/4"-9"-9 1/2"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4" from the marker.
Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows: Work 4-3-2-2-4-4 stitches (part of the back piece), place the next 48-56-62-66-68-72 stitches on a thread (sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-8-8 stitches under the sleeve, work 76-80-86-94-104-112 stitches (front piece), place the next 48-56-62-66-68-72 stitches on a thread (sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-8-8 stitches under the sleeve, work the last 72-77-84-92-100-108 stitches (a total of 76-80-86-94-104-112 stitches on the back piece).

BODY:
= 164-172-188-204-224-240 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the cast-on stitches under each sleeve. Continue in the round with pattern A.1. If the pattern does not fit under the sleeves, knit 2 stitches on each side of each marker; the other stitches should follow on from the pattern on the yoke.
When the body measures 4 cm = 1 1/2", decrease 1 stitch on each side of both markers - read DECREASE TIP.
Repeat this decrease every 6-7-6-6-7-5 cm = 2 3/8"-2 3/4"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/4"-2” a total of 4-3-4-4-3-4 times = 148-160-172-188-212-224 stitches.
Work until the body measures 25-25-26-26-25-25 cm = 9 3/4"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 1/4"-9 3/4"-9 3/4" from the division - adjust to finish with 2 rounds of stockinette stitch (or to desired length, there is 5 cm = 2" left). Change to circular needle size 4 .5 MM = US 8 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 5 cm = 2". Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The piece measures approx. 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm = 21 5/8"-22 1/2"-23 1/4"-24"-24 3/4"-25 1/2" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 48-56-62-66-68-72 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 MM = US 8 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-8-8 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 54-62-70-74-76-80 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-8-8 stitches under the sleeve. Start at the marker and work A.1 in the round. If the pattern does not fit under the sleeve, knit 2 stitches on each side of the marker, the other stitches continue the pattern from the yoke. When the sleeve measures 3 cm = 1 1/8", decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – remember DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-2½-1½-1½-1½-1 cm = 1 1/2"-1"-1/2"-1/2"-1/2"-3/8" a total of 7-11-15-15-16-18 times = 40-40-40-44-44-44 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 35-34-33-31-30-28 cm = 13 3/4"-13 3/8"-13"-12 1/4"-11 3/4"-11" - adjust to finish with 2 rounds of stockinette stitch (or to desired length, there is approx. 5 cm = 2" left). Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 MM = US 7 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 5 cm = 2". Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and rolling outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 230-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

signature-image signature

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

5) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

to top

8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Lily wrote:

Hello. I started knitting it and I have a question. Does "knit 12 stitches in pattern A1" mean stitches or pattern repeats? Do I have to knit 1

12.01.2024 - 09:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Lily, this means you will have to repat the 4 sts in diagram A.1 a total of 3 times (read diagram from the bottom corner on the right side upwards on every round). Happy knitting!

12.01.2024 - 13:42

country flag Iselin wrote:

Når den sier at jeg skal strikke 12 ganger i mønster, skal jeg da starte med rettstrikkingen fra bunnen slik den viser i A.1? Føler ikke jeg får med mye møster da i 12 masker😅 mhv en nybegynner

29.12.2023 - 23:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Iselin. Første gang du skal strikke A.1, starter du på 1. rad. Strikk 12 masker av A.1 (A.1 strikkes da 3 ganger), strikk 2 masker glattstrikk, strikk 24-24-28-32-32 eller 36 masker i mønster A.1 (forstykket). Du starter på 1. rad og 1. maske du ser i diagrammet. I str. S og M strikkes da A.1 6 ganger, mens i str. L 7 ganger, XL og XXL 8 ganger og i str. XXL 9 ganger. Følg oppskriften og start alltid med 1. maske på 1. rad, strikk omgangen ut. Og når du starter på 2. omgang strikker du 2. pinne i diagrammet osv. mvh DROPS Design

08.01.2024 - 13:50

country flag Birgit Eklund Pedersen wrote:

Hej, mangler der ikke noget tekst i afsnittet om udtagning til raglan? \r\nSkal jeg slå om henholdsvis før de 2 retmasker og efter de 2 retmasker, altså inden sidste maske før mærket og efter første maske efter mærket?\r\nVenlig hilsen birgit

07.11.2023 - 18:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Birgit. I forklaringen står det at du skal strikke 1 maske forbi 1. merke, gjør et kast, strikk til det gjenstår 1 maske før det neste merke, gjør et kast = 1 kast etter en maske med merke og 1 kast før en maske med merke. Og slik økes det ved hvert merke. = 8 kast på 1 omgang. Hadde starten på omgangen vært midt bak så kunne man ha skrevet slik du skriver, men i denne oppskriften er omgangens start ved overgangen mellom 1/2 bakstykket og et erme. mvh DROPS Design

13.11.2023 - 10:16

country flag Hanh Nguyen wrote:

I didn’t understand instruction in yoke measure: each sleeve: 14sts; front piece & back piece : 26 sts eacch; total 80sts at begin. After 21 times of increase for raglan, 8sts increased for each row, mean 2 sts increased inside each sleeve how finally we got 48 sts for each sleeve on devision? Can anybody help me ? TIA.

25.08.2023 - 13:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Nguyen, the first 3 sts + the last 3 sts on each sleeve will belong to back/front piece - you started with 12 sts for each sleeve, then increased 21 times = 54 sts - 6 sts (3 on each side for front/back piece) = 48 sts. Happy knitting!

28.08.2023 - 12:53

country flag Emmy wrote:

I am having trouble understanding the raglan increases. Should I increase on both sides of the marker, a total of 8 times per row?

31.07.2023 - 10:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Emmy, increase on each side of the 2 raglan stitches worked in stocking stitch (with the markers in the middle), so at the beg of the round, K1 and increase for raglan, then work until 1 st remain before next marker, make 1 YO, K2 (marker is between these 2 sts), make 1 YO, repeat these at the next markers until 1 stitch remain before the end of the round, make 1 YO and knit the last stitch. You have increased 2 sts on each piece, ie a total of 8 sts. Repeat these increases on every other round. Happy knitting!

31.07.2023 - 11:51

country flag Cécile wrote:

Bonjour, C'est la première fois que je tricote un pull de Drops. L'échantillon doit-il être fait dans le point du tricot. e modèle que je veux tricoter se fait dans un point fantaisie. Merci pour votre réponse

20.04.2023 - 15:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Cécile, ceci peut varier en fonction du modèle, mais ici, on le tricote en jersey, je cite: 17 mailles en largeur et 22 rangs en hauteur, en jersey = 10 x 10 cm. - Utilisez les aiguilles 5 (ou ajustez la taille des aiguilles si besoin). Bon tricot!

20.04.2023 - 16:26

country flag Anne wrote:

Målene på denne genseren må være helt feil,både lengden fra ermene og ned og på ermene. Ermene er dessuten veldig smale. Modellen må ha på seg en genser som egentlig er flere størrelser større enn det en skulle tro hun ville bruke. Synes dere bør sjekke denne oppskriften så ikke flere strever med det samme som meg og må rekke opp.😖

28.03.2023 - 17:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Anne, strikker du i DROPS Air og følger du strikkefastheden som står i opskriften, da vil du få målene som står i måleskitsen i den størrelse du har valgt. Hvis du mener det er fejl, så behøver vi mere information, hvilken størrelse du strikker, hvor mange masker du har på 10 cm og hvor du er i selve opskriften, hvilke mål du skulle have og hvilke du har....

12.04.2023 - 15:25

country flag Emilie wrote:

Hei. Strikker genseren i . Når jeg kommer til at man skal strikke videre uten raglanøkninger, får jeg ikke mønsteret til å gå opp? Endte opp å gjøre som beskrivelsen under bol «to masker i rettstrikk på hver side av hvert merke», men får da på det meste 8 i rettstrikk. Synes det ser feil ut, men får ikke mønsteret til å gå opp ellers da det bare er seks masker imellom etter siste raglanøkning. Hvordan strikker dere mønsteret etter raglanøkningene er ferdig?

02.11.2022 - 21:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Emilie, de masker som ikke går op kan du strikke i glatstrik (hvis du hellere vil have mønsteret til at gå op, kan du jo tage 2 masker ud i siden for at få det til at gå op) :)

04.11.2022 - 09:38

country flag Sophia Johansson wrote:

Hej, är vid raglan. Ska mönstret stickas på varje varv, dvs. Även det varvet där det ökas till raglan? Ska man då ändå sticka en rät, 1 omslag, markering, 1 rät, 1 omslag och sen nästa maska enligt mönstret? Eller ska man sticka enligt mönstret på ett varv,sedan nästa varv ökning men bara räta maskor? Dvs, vartannat mönster vartannat ökning.

02.11.2022 - 18:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Sophia, du strikker mønsteret på hver omgang og tager ud til raglan samtidigt :)

16.11.2022 - 13:40

country flag Elisabeth Bergqvist wrote:

Hur gör man för att få 8 m.ökning? Det är ju 4 markeringar så man behöver göra 2 ökningar vid varje markering men man börjar ju vid startmarkeringen och den ska man ju sticka förbi en maska, så då blir det bara 7 m.ökning. //Elisabeth

02.11.2022 - 09:53

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Elisabeth, du ökar på varje sida. Läs RAGLAN: Det ökas till raglan på varje sida av 2 maskor slätstickning vid varje markör så här: Sticka 1 maska förbi den första markören, gör 1 omslag om stickan. Sticka tills det återstår 1 maska före nästa markör, gör 1 omslag om stickan. Öka så vid varje markör. De ökade maskorna stickas vridet räta på nästa varv. Sedan stickas de nya maskorna in i mönstret.

02.11.2022 - 14:48

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 230-15

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

From the #dropsfan gallery

Provence Dream

Rita Marques, United Kingdom