Forest Whispers by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket in DROPS Delight and DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk. The piece is worked bottom up with moss stitch, shawl collar, pockets and split in the sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 230-45
DROPS Design: Pattern no de-228
Yarn group A + C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 194-110-120-130-142-154 cm = 41"-43 3/8"-47 1/4"-51 1/4"-55 3/4"-60 5/8"
Full length: 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm = 27 1/2"-28 3/8"-29 1/8"-29 1/2"-30 3/4"-31 1/2"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-350-400-400-450-500 g color 08, green/beige
And use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-225-250-250-300-325 g color 01, off white

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM = US 10.75: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 80 cm = 32”.

KNITTING GAUGE:
13 stitches in width and 15 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 2.75 $ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 2.75 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.35 $ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 3.35 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 43.30$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 103 stitches) minus the edge stitches (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of decreases to be made (e.g. 37) = 2.7. In this example decrease by knitting approx.. every 2nd and every 3rd stitch together.

INCREASE TIP (sleeves):
Increase 1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch on each side by making 1 yarn over. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches into A.1.

KNITTING TIP:
So the pattern fits, there is 1 more stitch between the pocket and the side on the left front piece than on the right front piece.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in sections, back and forth, then sewn together.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 103-109-119-129-141-153 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Work the first row from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 12 cm = 4 3/4". Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 37-39-41-45-49-53 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP, cast on 1 stitch at the end of the row (= edge stitch). Change to circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75. Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl to the end of the row and then cast on 1 stitch (= edge stitch) = 68-72-80-86-94-102 stitches.
Continue with A.1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 50-51-52-53-54-55 cm = 19 3/4"-20"-20 1/2"-21"-21 1/4"-21 5/8", bind off 2-2-4-5-6-8 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows = 64-68-72-76-82-86 stitches. Continue A.1 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm = 26 3/4"-27 1/2"-28 3/8"-29 1/8"-29 1/2"-30 3/4", bind off the middle 10-10-10-12-12-12 stitches for the neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then bind off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 26-28-30-31-34-36 stitches on the shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm = 27 1/2"-28 3/8"-29 1/8"-29 1/2"-30 3/4"-31 1/2" – read BINDING-OFF TIP.
Work the other shoulder in the same way.

POCKETS:
Cast on 24 stitches with circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75 and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands). Work stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the pocket measures 7 cm = 2 3/4", continue with A.1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the pocket measures 16 cm = 6 1/4", bind off 1 stitch at the beginning of the next 2 rows = 22 stitches – adjust so the last row worked is the first row in A.1 (this is important so the pattern matches the jacket). Place the stitches on an extra needle. Work 3 more pocket-pieces in the same way = 4 pockets-pieces.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 73-77-81-91-97-103 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands).
Work the next row from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch,* knit 1, purl 1* work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 12 cm = 4 3/4". Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 27-29-29-35-37-39 stitches evenly spaced and cast on 1 stitch at the end of the row (= edge stitch). Change to circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75. Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch and purl to the end of the row = 47-49-53-57-61-65 stitches.
Work A.1 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.

When the piece measures 31 cm = 12 1/4" – adjust so the next row to be worked is the first row in A.1 (to match the pocket), work the next row from the right side as follows:
Work the first 23-25-27-27-29-31 stitches, insert a marker, work the next 22 stitches, insert a marker (= 1 marker on each side of the pocket opening), work the last 2-2-4-8-10-12 stitches.
Work back from the wrong side as follows: Work to the first marker. Work each stitch on one pocket-piece together with each stitch on the front piece, at the same time as you bind off as follows (make sure the inner pocket is wrong side to wrong side on the front piece and the pattern matches in A.1):
Work the first stitch on the pocket-piece together with the first stitch on the opening and cast this stitch off. Repeat across the pocket, working together the stitches and then casting them off. Now work to the end of the row. Remove the markers.
Turn and work as far as the pocket, work the 22 stitches on a second pocket-piece from the right side, then work to the end of the row = 47-49-53-57-61-65 stitches. There are now 2 pocket-pieces on the front piece which will be sewn together later.

Continue A.1 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 50-51-52-53-54-55 cm = 19 3/4"-20"-20 1/2"-21"-21 1/4"-21 5/8". Now bind off 2-2-4-5-6-8 stitches at the beginning of the next row from the wrong side = 45-47-49-52-55-57 stitches. Continue A.1 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm = 27 1/2"-28 3/8"-29 1/8"-29 1/2"-30 3/4"-31 1/2", bind off the first 26-28-30-31-34-36 stitches on the next row from the wrong side for the shoulder. Work the last 19-19-19-21-21-21 stitches as follows for the collar:
ROW 1 (right side): Work the first 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches as before, knit the last 8 stitches.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Knit the first 8 stitches, work the last 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches as before.
ROW 3: Work the first 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches as before, turn.
ROW 4: Work as before over the 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches.
Repeat rows 1 to 4 until the collar measures 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm = 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" at the shortest point (towards the shoulder).
Bind off – remember BINDING-OFF TIP.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 73-77-81-91-97-103 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands).
Work the next row from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch,* knit 1, purl 1* work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 12 cm = 4 3/4". Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 27-29-29-35-37-39 stitches evenly spaced and cast on 1 stitch at the end of the row (= edge stitch). Change to circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75. Purl to the end of the row and work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch (= edge stitch) = 47-49-53-57-61-65 stitches.
Work A.1 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.

When the piece measures 31 cm = 12 1/4" – adjust so the next row to be worked is the first row in A.1 (to match the pocket), work the next row from the right side as follows:
Work the first 3-3-5-9-11-13 stitches – read KNITTING TIP, insert a marker, work the next 22 stitches, insert a marker (= 1 marker on each side of the pocket opening), work the last 22-24-26-26-28-29 stitches.
Work back from the wrong side as follows: Work to the first marker. Work each stitch on the pocket-piece together with each stitch on the front piece, at the same time as you bind off as follows (make sure the pocket-piece is wrong side to wrong side on the front piece and the pattern matches in A.1):
Work the first stitch on the pocket-piece together with the first stitch on the opening and cast this stitch off. Repeat across the pocket, working together the stitches and then casting them off. Now work to the end of the row. Remove the markers.
Turn and work as far as the pocket, work the 22 stitches on a second pocket-piece from the right side, then work to the end of the row = 47-49-53-57-61-65 stitches. There are now 2 pocket-pieces on the front piece which will be sewn together later.

Continue A.1 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 50-51-52-53-54-55 cm = 19 3/4"-20"-20 1/2"-21"-21 1/4"-21 5/8". Now bind off 2-2-4-5-6-8 stitches at the beginning of the next row from the right side = 45-47-49-52-55-57 stitches. Continue A.1 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm = 27 1/2"-28 3/8"-29 1/8"-29 1/2"-30 3/4"-31 1/2", bind off the first 26-28-30-31-34-36 stitches on the next row from the right side for the shoulder. Work the last 19-19-19-21-21-21 stitches as follows for the collar:
ROW 1 (wrong side): Work the first 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches as before, knit the last 8 stitches.
ROW 2 (right side): Knit the first 8 stitches, work the last 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches as before.
ROW 3: Work the first 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches as before, turn.
ROW 4: Work as before over the 11-11-11-13-13-13 stitches.
Repeat rows 1 to 4 until the collar measures 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm = 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8" at the shortest point (towards the shoulder).
Bind off – remember BINDING-OFF TIP.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 54-58-58-60-60-64 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 5 MM = US 8 and 1 strand of each quality (= 2 strands).
Work the next row from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch,* knit 1, purl 1* work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 10 cm = 4”. Knit 1 row where you decrease 16-18-18-18-18-20 stitches evenly spaced = 38-40-40-42-42-44 stitches. Change to circular needle size 7 MM = US 10.75. Purl 1 row with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. Now work A.1 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the sleeve measures 12 cm = 4 3/4", increase 1 stitch inside the 1 edge stitch on each side – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 4½-4½-3-3-2½-2 cm = 1 5/8"-1 5/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1"-3/4" a total of 7-7-9-9-10-11 times = 52-54-58-60-62-66 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 44-44-42-41-39-37 cm = 17 1/4"-17 1/4"-16 1/2"-16 1/8"-15 1/4"-14 1/2". Insert 1 marker in each side – mark the bottom of the armhole.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 46-46-45-45-43-43 cm = 18"-18"-17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17"-17". Bind off - remember BINDING-OFF TIP. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the bind-off edge – make sure the seam is not tight.
Sew the sleeve seams, leaving a split of 2-2-3-4-4-6 cm = 3/4"-3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/2"-1 1/2"-2 3/8" at the top. Sew the split to the bottom of the armhole. Then sew the sleeve to the body – see illustration.
Sew the side seams inside the 1 edge stitch down to the top of the rib (= 12 cm = 4 3/4" split left on each side).
Sew the collar together mid-back and then sew the collar to the neck-line. Lay the pocket-pieces together and sew around the edges.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = sleeve cap sewn to the armhole: a to A and b to B
diagram
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 230-45) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Kassalia Maria wrote:

Hallo liebes team können sie mir bitte mit der tasche helfen?Ich komme nicht weiterWenden und die Rück-Reihe wie folgt stricken: Bis zum ersten Markierer stricken, dann je 1 Masche der Taschenöffnung (der Jacke) mit 1 Masche einer Taschenhälfte zusammenstricken und dabei gleichzeitig abketten, wie nachfolgend beschrieben (darauf achten, dass die Rückseite der Taschenhälfte an der Rückseite des rechten Vorderteils liegt und dass die Maschen im Muster A.1 zusammengestrickt werden):

01.12.2022 - 20:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Kassalia, zuerst stricken Sie das 1. Teil von der Tasche zusammen mit den Maschen vom Vorderteil, (die Tasche soll an der Rückseite liegen) und gleichzeitig diese Maschen abketten (die 1. Masche der Jacke zs mit der 1. Masche der Tasche stricken, die 2. Masche beide Teile genauso stricken, die vor letzte Masche auf der rechte Nadel über die letzte Masche ziehen = 1 M ist abgekettet - so wiederholen) es wird so ein Loch auf der Nadel sein, bei der nächsten Reihe stricken Sie die 2. Tasche darüber. Danach nähen Sie die 3 Seiten der Taschen zusammen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.12.2022 kl. 08:03

country flag Linda wrote:

I have reached the top of the sweater. It says bind off for shoulder , which I did. Then row 1 work the first 11 stitches as before,knit the last stitches. Please explain. What does as before mean?

20.11.2022 - 21:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Linda, work these stitches as you did in previous rows; that is, continue working A.1 (the first stitch from the mid front would be an edge stitch). Happy knitting!

21.11.2022 kl. 01:02

country flag Kathleen wrote:

Making size L 230-45, purchased 10-50g skeins Drops Delight, 500g and 12-25g skeins Drops Brushed Alpaca Silk, 300g. both slightly over recommended quantities. I'm concerned it won't be enough yarn to complete the sweater, it doesn't look like it will be to me?

25.10.2022 - 20:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kathleen, we haven't get similar feedback about the amount of yarn yet - did you get and keep the correct tension both in width but also in height? ie your work should be 13 sts in width and 15 rows in height in A.1.

26.10.2022 kl. 07:57

country flag Phyllis Martz wrote:

What is the striping pattern for the fronts and sleeves? This is not in the pattern,

22.10.2022 - 14:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Phyllis, the stripe pattern is from the DROPS Delight ball itself; it has a mixture of beige and green so the stripes appear on their own as you work (you can see in the pictures that the stripes aren't symmetrical as they usually are when working a striping pattern). Happy knitting!

22.10.2022 kl. 18:41

country flag Phyllis Martz wrote:

On the Forest Whispers pattern, is the chest measurement 41-43 inches the actual finished chest measurement? I don't understand the yarn requirements in grams. Can you translate them into yards for me.? I cannot use wool blends and am looking for a bulky acrylic yarn that gives me the gauge Thank you, Phyllis.

14.10.2022 - 22:44

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Phyllis, the chest measurement is half of the chest (so if it's 41 inches, the actual chest would be 2 times 41 = 82 inches). For the yardage, you need to take into account the yardage of each yarn to calculate the amount of meters/yards needed. Each ball of DROPS Delight (50g) has 191 yds and each ball of DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk (25gr) has 153 yds. Depending on the amount of each yarn needed for your size, you can calculate how many yds of each yarn you would need. Since it's a combination of 2 yarns and you want to use a single bulkier yarn, you can make all necessary calculations taking into account only DROPS Delight. Happy knitting!

16.10.2022 kl. 23:20

country flag Gerard wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas pourquoi il faut tricoter 4 poches. Pourquoi utiliser des aiguilles circulaires si le modèle est à monter. Je ne comprends pas le diagramme : est-ce que 77cm correspond à la largeur du dos ? Merci de votre réponse

23.06.2022 - 16:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gerard, lorsque vous tricotez le devant, vous tricotez d'abord la 1ère poche avec les mailles du devant en les rabattant en même temps, et, au rang suivant, vous tricotez les mailles de la 2ème poche au-dessus de l'ouverture et continuez le devant. À la fin, vous assemblerez le fond de ces 2 poches ensemble et les côtés. Bon tricot!

24.06.2022 kl. 08:46

country flag Patricia R Szymkowski wrote:

My question regards sizing. Is is true that a small size is a 41-43 3/8 inch chest? Really? I also need help determining how many balls of each color I shall need. Thank you, Pat

22.05.2022 - 02:17

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Patricia, size S has 52 cm, which is 40 ¹⁵/₁₆ inches for the whole circumference of the chest (the diagram usually shows half of it). This is the measurement of the actual garment, so your chest should be smaller than this measurement or you might need to work a larger size. For Size S, you need 6 balls of Delight and 8 balls of Brushed Alpaca Silk. Happy knitting!

22.05.2022 kl. 23:07

country flag Edyta wrote:

Dziękuję serdecznie.

05.05.2022 - 10:06

country flag Edyta wrote:

Dzień dobry. Nie rozumiem jak mam robić kołnierz. Od którego rzędu i po ile oczek mam je zamykać. Proszę o pomoc. Pozdrawiam serdecznie Edyta

04.05.2022 - 18:53

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Edyto, tutaj nie zamykasz oczek, tylko wykonujesz rzędy skrócone, jak w opisie (patrz RZĘDY 1-4). Jak wykonać rzędy skrócone znajdziesz TUTAJ. Pozdrawiamy!

04.05.2022 kl. 20:53

country flag Sirkka-Liisa Koskinen wrote:

Paljonko alpaca- silk lankaa tarvitsen kokoon L ? Haluan tehdä sen yksin alpaca-silk langasta.

17.04.2022 - 20:45

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