DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.05$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Harlequin Ruffles

Crocheted sweater in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked with lace pattern and flounces. Sizes S – XXXL.

DROPS 230-44
DROPS Design: Pattern e-336
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 92-98-104-114-126-138 cm = 36 1/4"-38 1/2"-41"-45"-49 1/2"-54 1/4"
Full length: 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
450-500-550-650-700-750 g color 18, off white

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 MM = US C.

CROCHET GAUGE:
24 double crochets in width and 13 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller hook size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 1.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.05$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

CHAIN STITCH:
If you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 double crochet is wide.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of each row of double crochets, work 3 chain stitches which do not replace the first double crochet.
At the beginning of each row of single crochets, work 1 chain stitch which does not replace the first double crochet.

DECREASE TIP:
* Make 1 yarn over, insert the hook through the next stitch, pick up the strand, make 1 yarn over and pull it through the first 2 loops on the hook *, work from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull it through all 3 loops on the hook (= 1 stitch decreased).

INCREASE TIP:
Increase 1 double crochet by working 2 double crochets in the outermost double crochet on each side.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth in sections and sewn together. Flounces are worked around the sleeve-openings. The sleeves are worked back and forth and sewn together.

BACK PIECE:
Work 118-124-132-144-160-174 CHAIN STITCHES – read description above, with hook size 3 MM = US C and DROPS Safran. Work 1 double crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook – read CROCHET INFORMATION, and 1 double crochet in each of the following chain stitches (wrong side) = 115-121-129-141-157-171 stitches.
Work 2 rows with 1 double crochet in each stitch.
Then work pattern as follows from the right side:
Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 2-5-9-6-14-12 stitches, A.1, A.2 4-4-4-5-5-6 times, A.3 and 1 double crochet in each of the last 2-5-9-6-14-12 stitches.
Continue this pattern.
REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Repeat A.1a, A.2a and A.3a in height.

When the piece measures 10 cm = 4”, work together the 2 outermost double crochets in each side– read DECREASE TIP (= 1 stitch decreased on each side). Decrease like this every 10-7-12-12-7-7 cm = 4"-2 3/4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4" a total of 2-3-2-2-3-3 times = 111-115-125-137-151-165 stitches.
Continue as follows:
1 double crochet in each of the first 0-2-7-4-11-9 stitches, A.1a, A.2a and A.3a as before, 1 double crochet in each of the last 0-2-7-4-11-9 stitches.


Work until the piece measures approx. 26-27-28-29-30-31 cm = 10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11"-11 3/8"-11 3/4"-12 1/4", finish after a full or half repeat in height.
Continue as follows (adjust to continue with the next row according to the pattern):
Work 1 double crochet in/around each of the first 10-12-17-14-21-19 stitches, A.1x, A.2 4-4-4-5-5-6 times, A.3x and 1 double crochet in each of the last 10-12-17-14-21-19 stitches.
When the piece measures 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm = 11 3/8"-11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12 1/2"-13"-13 3/8", cut the strand.

Work the next row as follows:
Skip the first 3-4-6-9-13-16 stitches, work 1 single crochet in the next stitch, 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the same stitch, 1 double crochet in/around each of the next 6-7-10-4-7-2 stitches, A.3x, A.2 and A.1x as before, 1 double crochet in/around each of the last 7-8-11-5-8-3 stitches = 105-107-113-119-125-133 stitches.
You are therefore not working the 3-4-6-9-13-16 outermost stitches on each side.
Continue this pattern.
Work until the piece measures approx. 37-38-39-41-42-44 cm = 14 1/2"-15"-15 1/4"-16 1/8"-16 1/2"-17 1/4", finish after a full or half repeat in height.
Continue with 1 double crochet in/around each stitch.
When the piece measures 45-47-49-51-53-55 cm = 17 3/4"-18 1/2"-19 1/4"-20"-21"-21 5/8", work the neck as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 31-31-34-36-39-42 stitches, work the next 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in the next stitch, turn = 33-33-36-38-41-44 stitches. Work 1 double crochet in each stitch until the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4". Cut and fasten the strand. Work the other shoulder as follows:
Skip the middle 37-39-39-41-41-43 stitches, work 1 single crochet in the next stitch, 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the same stitch, work 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each of the last 31-31-34-36-39-42 stitches = 33-33-36-38-41-44 stitches.
Work 1 double crochet in each stitch until the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4". Cut and fasten the strand.

FRONT PIECE:
Work as the back until the front piece measures 41-42-43-45-46-48 cm = 16 1/8"-16 1/2"-17"-17 3/4"-18"-19". On the next row towards the neck work as follows:
Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 35-35-38-41-44-48 stitches, work the next 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in the next stitch, turn = 37-37-40-43-46-50 stitches.
Work 1 double crochet in the first stitch, work the next 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each of the last 34-34-37-40-43-47 stitches = 36-36-39-42-45-49 stitches.
Continue like this and decrease 1 stitch inside 1 double crochet on each row a total of 5-5-5-6-6-7 times = 33-33-36-38-41-44 stitches.
Work 1 double crochet in each stitch until the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4". Cut and fasten the strand.

Work the other shoulder as follows:
Skip the middle 29-31-31-31-31-31 stitches, work 1 single crochet, 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in the same stitch, work the next 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet in each of the last 35-35-38-41-44-48 stitches = 37-37-40-43-46-50 stitches.
Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 34-34-37-40-43-47 stitches, work the next 2 double crochets together, 1 double crochet, turn = 36-36-39-42-45-50 stitches.
Continue like this and decrease 1 stitch inside 1 double crochet on each row a total of 5-5-5-6-6-7 times = 33-33-36-38-41-44 stitches.
Work 1 double crochet in each stitch until the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4". Cut and fasten the strand.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

NECK:
Work an edge around the neck as follows:
Start at one shoulder seam.
Work 1 slip stitch from the right side, * 3 chain stitches, skip 1 cm = 3/8", 1 single crochet around/in the next stitch *, work from *-* around the neck. Finish with 1 single crochet in the same stitch as the slip stitch.

SLEEVE-FLOUNCE:
Work 1 single crochet in the first row after the skipped stitches on the back piece, * 2 chain stitches, 1 single crochet around the next row *, work from *-* around the opening as far as the last row before the skipped stitches on the front piece (make sure the edge is not tight, you can work an extra chain stitch between each single crochet if necessary). The flounce is worked over A in the sketch.
Work A.4 back and forth over these stitches. When A.4 has been completed in height, cut and fasten the strand. Work the other flounce in the same way.

SLEEVES:
Work 64-66-66-68-68-70 chain stitches with hook size 3 MM = US C and DROPS Safran. Work 1 double crochet in the 4th chain stitch from the hook, 1 double crochet in the remaining chain stitches = 61-63-63-65-65-67 stitches.
Work 2 rows with 1 double crochet in each stitch.
Then work pattern as follows from the right side:
Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 11-12-12-13-13-14 stitches, A.1, A.3 and 1 double crochet in each of the last 11-12-12-13-13-14 stitches. Continue this pattern for 8 cm = 3 1/8". Now increase 1 double crochet on each side – read INCREASE TIP.
Increase like this every 2½-2-1½-1½-1½-1 cm = 1"-3/4"-1/2"-1/2"-1/2"-3/8" a total of 15-16-19-20-23-24 times = 91-95-101-105-111-115 stitches.
When the sleeve measures 46-45-44-43-42-40 cm = 18"-17 3/4"-17 1/4"-17"-16 1/2"-15 3/4", finish the repeat of A.1 and A.3, then continue with double crochets. When the sleeve measures 47 cm = 18 1/2", cut and fasten the strand. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the sleeve seams, leaving a split of 1-2-3-4-5-7 cm = 3/8"-3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/2"-2"-2 3/4" at the top.
Sew the split to the bottom of the armhole – see sketch. Sew the sleeve to the body, under the flounce.
Sew the side seams in the outermost loop so the seam is flat.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = double crochet in stitch below
symbols = double crochet around chain stitch/chain-space below
symbols = chain stitch - if you work outermost on the hook the chain stitch will often be too tight; 1 chain stitch should be as long as 1 double crochet is wide.
symbols = this row has already been worked, it shows how the next row is worked in the stitches
symbols = sleeve-cap sewn to armhole: a to A and b to B
symbols = single crochet
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Marieke wrote:

Vraag over de achterpand, maat m. Ik ben nu bij 'haak 1 stokje in/om elke van de volgende 12 steken, A.1x, A.2 4keer, A.3x en 1 stokje in elk van de laatste 12 steken. Als ik dit op volg, wijk ik van het patroon af? Ik krijg het voor geen mogelijkheid kloppend. Graag advies.

03.03.2024 - 12:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marieke,

Als je met maat m bezig bent dan haak je 1 stokje en elk van de volgende 5 steken, dus je houd voor maat m steeds het tweede getal aan als er een reeks getallen staat. A.2 4 keer klopt wel en de laatst 12 steken zijn dus geen 12 steken maar 5 steken voor maat m.

06.03.2024 - 22:27

country flag Suzanne wrote:

Ik maak maat M met naald 3, haak losjes, mijn trui heeft de afmeting van 70cm in de breedte! Ik had beter een 2.5mm en maat S kunnen doen. Aantal stokjes op proefrij klopte wel gewoon, zodra ik verder ging wrrd hij enorm wijd. Erg zonde en te laat om alles uit te halen

28.02.2024 - 10:10

country flag Linda D wrote:

Må være feil med maskeantall, da jeg hekler med Drops Safran, og på gått ned på nåla til 2.5mm istedet for 3, enda blir strl S til en strl L i antall cm/størrelse

09.06.2023 - 19:06

country flag Brita wrote:

Antall masker kan ikke stemme med størrelser. Nå har jeg gått ned til nål 2,5, og en størrelse M blir XXXL i antall cm. Ser det er flere som har kommentert dette.

30.04.2023 - 10:02

country flag Petra wrote:

Hej! Ja jag använder Safran garn. Har minskat antalet maskor så det stämmer med de angivna måtten.

06.03.2023 - 15:08

country flag Petra wrote:

Jag har börjat på mönstret flera gånger, sist med nål 2.5 och ska göra storlek S men måttet blir L. Brukar annars få gå upp en nål, eftersom jag brukar virka ganska ”hårt”. Är måttangivelserna kanske fel? Någon annan som upplevt samma. Nu ska jag försöka justera mönstret själv.

18.02.2023 - 19:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Petra. Takk for din tilbakemelding, vi har ikke fått noen lignende kommentarer tidligere og målene stemmer med det som er på plagget. Bruker du DROPS Safran? mvh DROPS Design

27.02.2023 - 12:50

country flag Andrea wrote:

Jeg er nået til at skulle hækle 1 stangmaske i/om de første 12 masker derefter A.1x,A.2 4 gange og A.3x og derefter 1 stangmaske i/om de første 12 masker. Men det er som om jeg ikke kan få mønstret til at passe. Sluttede på en hel rapport og skal starte med A.3x, men det er som om at det ikke kommer til at passe sammen. Jeg hækler en str. M

15.08.2022 - 17:54

country flag Andrea wrote:

Jeg er nået til at skulle hækle 1 stangmaske i/om de første 12 masker derefter A.1x,A.2 4 gange og A.3x og derefter 1 stangmaske i/om de første 12 masker. Men det er som om jeg ikke kan få mønstret til at passe. Sluttede på en hel rapport og skal starte med A.3x, men det er som om at det ikke kommer til at passe sammen.

14.08.2022 - 12:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Andrea. Vi skal hjelpe deg så godt vi kan, men fint om du opplyser hvilken str. du hekler. mvh DROPS Design

15.08.2022 - 13:14

country flag Charlotte Cardell Storm wrote:

Hækler størrelse xxl og skal have 157 stangmasker plus de 3 luftmasker når jeg skal starte mønster. Det har jeg også. Så skal jeg hækle 14 stangmasker, A1 og A2 totalt 5 gange (96 masker) A3 (19 masker) og så 14 masker til sidst. Det giver 143 masker. Hvad skal jeg gøre med de sidste 14 masker?

03.08.2022 - 13:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Charlotte, Hækl 1 stangmaske i hver af de første 14 stangmasker, A.1=20 st, A.2 =18 totalt 5 gange=90, A.3=19 og 1 stangmaske i hver af de sidste 14 stangmasker. Ialt 157 masker :)

05.08.2022 - 11:39

country flag Jeanette wrote:

Förstår inte beskrivningen på bakstycket. Virkar strl M och har då 121 st när man ska påbörja mönster. Första varvet börjar med 5 st och sedan mönster A1, A2 totalt 4 ggr, A3 och avsluta med 5 st. Men det kräver väldigt många fler st än vad jag har! Hela bredden av mönster A1 samt A2 är 20 respektive 18 maskor per rapport, 4 rapporter är således 152 maskor plus 19 maskor på A3 samt 5 st i början samt 5 i slutet vilket är totalt 181! Var blir det fel?

15.05.2022 - 22:07