Little Pea by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater for babies and children in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down with raglan and wave-pattern. Sizes 0 - 6 years.

DROPS Design: Pattern e-082-by
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6) years
Child’s height in cm:
48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104 -110/116)
Child’s height in feet:
1ft/1ft8 - 1ft 10/2ft - 2ft3/2ft5 - 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft – 3ft3/3ft5 - 3ft3/3ft5)

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 44-50-52-58 (60-64-70) cm = 17 1/4"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-22 3/4" (23 5/8"-25 1/4"-27 1/2")
Full length: 25-28-30-33 (36-40-44) cm = 9 3/4"-11"-11 3/4"-13" (14 1/4"-15 3/4"-17 1/4")
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-150-150 (150-200-200) g color 63, sea green

DROPS BUTTONS NO 600: 2 items in all sizes.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Cotton
from 2.35 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 2.35 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.70$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over.
On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the 2 stockinette stitches in each transition between body and sleeves (8 stitches increase on row/round). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over.
On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
On the next round (i.e. when working in the round) knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row, knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures 1½ cm = 1/2”. Then work the other buttonhole after 4 cm = 1 1/2".

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is first worked back and forth from mid-front and top down. When the split is finished, it is continued in the round. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body continued in the round. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 73-77-81-85 (89-93-97) stitches with circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and DROPS Safran. Work 2 RIDGES back and forth – read description above. Change to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5.

YOKE:
READ THE NEXT SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
The first row is worked as follows from the right side:
3 band stitches in garter stitch, 11-12-13-14 (15-16-17) stitches in stockinette stitch (half front piece), 1 yarn over, 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (raglan-line), 1 yarn over, 6 stitches in stockinette stitch and increase 4 stitches evenly over these stitches (10 stitches on the sleeve), 1 yarn over, 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (raglan-line), 1 yarn over, 25-27-29-31 (33-35-37) stitches in stockinette stitch (back piece), 1 yarn over, 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (raglan-line), 1 yarn over, 6 stitches in stockinette stitch and increase 4 stitches evenly over these stitches (10 stitches on the sleeve), 1 yarn over, 2 stitches in stockinette stitch (raglan-line), 1 yarn over, 11-12-13-14 (15-16-17) stitches in stockinette stitch and 3 band stitches in garter stitch (half front piece).
The first increase to RAGLAN – read description above, is now finished and there are 89-93-97-101 (105-109-113) stitches on the row.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 3 band stitches in garter stitch on each side and continue increasing to raglan every 2nd row (each row from the right side) – REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE and the BUTTONHOLES – read description above.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 6 cm = 2 3/8" from the cast-on edge, join the piece as follows on the next row from the right side: Bind off the first 3 stitches and work to the end of the row. When the row is finished, continue in the round with stockinette stitch over all stitches. Move the beginning of the round to mid-front.
Increase to raglan a total of 10-12-13-14 (15-16-18) times = 158-178-190-202 (214-226-246) stitches. Continue without further increases until the piece measures 9-10-11-12 (13-14-15) cm = 3 1/2"-4"-4 3/8"-4 3/4" (5 1/8"-5 1/2"-6").
Work the next round as follows: Knit 24-27-29-31 (33-35-38), place the next 32-36-38-40 (42-44-48) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8 (8-8-8) stitches (in side under sleeve), knit 47-53-57-61 (65-69-75) place the next 32-36-38-40 (42-44-48) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8 (8-8-8) stitches (in side under sleeve), knit the last 23-26-28-30 (32-34-37) stitches.
The body and sleeves are finished separately.

BODY:
= 106-118-126-138 (146-154-166) stitches. Insert 1 marker in each side, in the middle of the new stitches cast on under each sleeve. Move the beginning of the round to one marker.
When the piece measures 2 cm = 3/4" from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both markers - read INCREASE TIP.
Increase like this every 3 cm = 1 1/8" a total of 3-3-3-4 (4-4-4) times = 118-130-138-154 (162-170-182) stitches.
When the piece measures 8-10-11-13 (15-18-21) cm = 3 1/8"-4"-4 3/8"-5 1/8" (6"-7"-8 1/4") from the division, work 2 ridges over all stitches. Knit 1 round where you increase 18-23-32-33 (42-34-39) stitches evenly spaced = 136-153-170-187 (204-204-221) stitches. Knit 1 round; the yarn overs are knitted twisted to avoid holes.
Now work A.1 over all stitches. When A.1 has been completed in height, loosely bind off.

SLEEVES:
Place the 32-36-38-40 (42-44-48) stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8 (8-8-8) stitches cast on under the sleeve = 38-42-44-48 (50-52-56) stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. Work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 3 cm = 1 1/8" from the division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker - read DECREASE TIP!
Decrease like this every 5-4-3-3 (4-5-3 ½) cm = 2"-1 1/2"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" (1 1/2"-2"-1 1/4") a total of 2-3-4-5 (5-5-7) times = 34-36-36-38 (40-42-42) stitches.
When the sleeve measures 11-14-15-18 (21-26-29) cm = 4 3/8"-5 1/2"-6"-7" (8 1/4"-10 1/4"-11 3/8"), change to double pointed needles size 2.5 MM = US 1.5. Work 2 ridges over all stitches. Bind off with knit. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the band without buttonholes.
Lay the button-band under the buttonhole-band and sew together at the bottom.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 16.05.2022
MATERIALS: DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A) 100-100-150-150 (150-200-200) g color 63, sea green

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 42-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Willeke wrote:

Er staat een fout in deze vertaling: Meerder voor de raglan in totaal 10-12-13-14 (15-16-18) keer = 158-178-190-202 (214-226-246) steken. Ga zo verder met meerderingen tot het werk 9-10-11-12 (13-14-15) cm meet. In het deense en noorse patroon staat dat je na de meerderingen ZONDER meerderingen verder breit tot het werk 10 cm meet

22.06.2022 - 22:04

country flag Valeria wrote:

Hola! Hice este patrón y el extremo inferior se enrosca hacia arriba ¿por qué sucede esto? ¿Qué se puede hacer para evitarlo? Gracias!

26.05.2022 - 16:14

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Valeria, puedes usar una plancha de vapor, de forma ligera, para evitar estropear el dibujo; suele aplanarlo sin problemas. Este enrollamiento suele deberse a un problema con la tensión del tejido.

26.05.2022 kl. 22:58

country flag Petra wrote:

Dobrý den, nerozumím tomu, jak mám v první lícové řadě současně přidat nad oky rovnoměrně 4 nová oka. Konkrétní Text ( 1× nahodíme, 6 ok lícovým žerzejem - Současně nad těmito oky přidáme rovnoměrně 4 nová oka = 10 ok rukávu) nenašla jsem žádné video, které by mi toto ukázalo. Prosím o radu. Moc děkuji.

24.04.2022 - 08:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den Petro, v úseku 6 ok, která pletete lícovým žerzejem, budete plést třeba takto: 1 hladce, 1x nahodit, 1 hladce, 1x nahodit, 2 hladce, 1x nahodit, 1 hladce, 1x nahodit, 1 hladce. Tím přidáte rovnoměrně na požadovaných 10 ok. Ať se daří!

24.04.2022 kl. 09:49

country flag Walburga Fetzer wrote:

Bin gewohnt, alle Sachen von unten nach oben zu stricken und nicht umgekehrt. Wie ändert man das?

21.03.2022 - 10:01

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Fetzer, vielleicht können Sie dann die Anleitung umgekehrt stricken? Dh von unten (die abgekettene Maschen anschlagen anstatt abktetten) bis oben. Sonnst kann Ihnen dieses Video und auch diese Lektion damit helfen, den Pullover von oben nach unten zu stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

21.03.2022 kl. 11:47

country flag Maria Grimaldi wrote:

Modelli

06.03.2022 - 18:03

country flag Ilja Bos wrote:

In het Nederlandse patroon staat: "Meerder voor de raglan in totaal 10-12-13-14 (15-16-18) keer = 158-178-190-202 (214-226-246) steken. Ga zo verder met meerderingen tot het werk 9-10-11-12 (13-14-15) cm meet." Ik heb even in het Noorse patroon gekeken en daar staat in de tweede zin ipv met meerderingen, zonder meerderingen. Ik kwam namelijk nog niet aan de 10 cm nadat ik alle meerderingen had gedaan.

06.03.2022 - 15:51

country flag Elisabeth wrote:

Hallo und danke für das schöne Muster! Leider wellt sich nach dem Abketten der Saum unten. Ich hab schon mehrmals wieder aufgetrennt und mal lockerer, mal fester abgekettet. Aber nichts hilft. Wissen Sie, woran das liegt und was ich dagegen tun kann?

02.03.2022 - 10:52

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Elisabeth, Sie können den Pullover mit Stecknadeln auf einer geeigneten Unterlage spannen, anfeuchten (z.B. mit einer Sprühflasche für Blumen) und trocknen lassen, danach entfernen Sie die Stecknadeln, dann sollte sich der Rand nicht mehr rollen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.03.2022 kl. 12:04

country flag Mia wrote:

Jeg har glemt å lage det første knapphullet! Er det noen måte å fikse det på, eller må jeg rekke opp alt? Evt noen annen måte å lage lukking øverst?

27.01.2022 - 19:55

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Mia, Hvis du har en symaskin kan du sy rundt der hvor knapphullet skal være, klipp opp og deretter sy knapphullsting rundt slik at det blir pent. Drops har en video hvis du trenger hjelp - bare sette knapphullsting i søkeboksen under videoer. Lykke til !

28.01.2022 kl. 06:59

country flag Mia wrote:

Spørsmål om pinnestørrelse og strikkefasthet: I en oppskrift med flere pinnestørrelser, som her 2,5 og 3, skal man da sjekke strikkefastheten ut i fra den pinnestørrelsen man strikker mest med? Altså 3? Og hvis garnet jeg bruker gjør at jeg må bruke pinnestørrelse 3,5, skal jeg da velge str.3 der oppskriften sier 2,5?

25.01.2022 - 18:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Mia, Ja, strikkefasthet er målt med pinne 3. Hvis du må øke pinnestørrelse for å få til riktig fasthet, øker du alle pinnene tilsvarende. God fornøyelse!

26.01.2022 kl. 07:50

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