DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
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DROPS Buttons
Flower (white) No. 600

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 2.60£.

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Little Pea

Knitted jumper for babies and children in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down with raglan and wave-pattern. Sizes 0 - 6 years.

DROPS Baby 42-8

#littlepeasweater

DROPS Design: Pattern e-082-by
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6) years
Child’s height in cm:
48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104 -110/116)

MATERIALS:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-150-150 (150-200-200) g colour 63, sea green

DROPS BUTTONS NO 600: 2 items in all sizes.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over.
On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the 2 stocking stitches in each transition between body and sleeves (8 stitches increase on row/round). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over.
On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
On the next round (i.e. when working in the round) knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

DECREASE TIP (sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row, knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures 1½ cm. Then work the other buttonhole after 4 cm.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is first worked back and forth from mid-front and top down. When the split is finished, it is continued in the round. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body continued in the round. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 73-77-81-85 (89-93-97) stitches with circular needle size 2.5 mm and DROPS Safran. Work 2 RIDGES back and forth – read description above. Change to circular needle size 3 mm.

YOKE:
READ THE NEXT SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
The first row is worked as follows from the right side:
3 band stitches in garter stitch, 11-12-13-14 (15-16-17) stitches in stocking stitch (half front piece), 1 yarn over, 2 stitches in stocking stitch (raglan-line), 1 yarn over, 6 stitches in stocking stitch and increase 4 stitches evenly over these stitches (10 stitches on the sleeve), 1 yarn over, 2 stitches in stocking stitch (raglan-line), 1 yarn over, 25-27-29-31 (33-35-37) stitches in stocking stitch (back piece), 1 yarn over, 2 stitches in stocking stitch (raglan-line), 1 yarn over, 6 stitches in stocking stitch and increase 4 stitches evenly over these stitches (10 stitches on the sleeve), 1 yarn over, 2 stitches in stocking stitch (raglan-line), 1 yarn over, 11-12-13-14 (15-16-17) stitches in stocking stitch and 3 band stitches in garter stitch (half front piece).
The first increase to RAGLAN – read description above, is now finished and there are 89-93-97-101 (105-109-113) stitches on the row.
Continue with stocking stitch and 3 band stitches in garter stitch on each side and continue increasing to raglan every 2nd row (each row from the right side) – REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION and the BUTTONHOLES – read description above.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 6 cm from the cast-on edge, join the piece as follows on the next row from the right side: Cast off the first 3 stitches and work to the end of the row. When the row is finished, continue in the round with stocking stitch over all stitches. Move the beginning of the round to mid-front.
Increase to raglan a total of 10-12-13-14 (15-16-18) times = 158-178-190-202 (214-226-246) stitches. Continue without further increases until the piece measures 9-10-11-12 (13-14-15) cm.
Work the next round as follows: Knit 24-27-29-31 (33-35-38), place the next 32-36-38-40 (42-44-48) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8 (8-8-8) stitches (in side under sleeve), knit 47-53-57-61 (65-69-75) place the next 32-36-38-40 (42-44-48) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-6-8 (8-8-8) stitches (in side under sleeve), knit the last 23-26-28-30 (32-34-37) stitches.
The body and sleeves are finished separately.

BODY:
= 106-118-126-138 (146-154-166) stitches. Insert 1 marker in each side, in the middle of the new stitches cast on under each sleeve. Move the beginning of the round to one marker.
When the piece measures 2 cm from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both markers - read INCREASE TIP.
Increase like this every 3 cm a total of 3-3-3-4 (4-4-4) times = 118-130-138-154 (162-170-182) stitches.
When the piece measures 8-10-11-13 (15-18-21) cm from the division, work 2 ridges over all stitches. Knit 1 round where you increase 18-23-32-33 (42-34-39) stitches evenly spaced = 136-153-170-187 (204-204-221) stitches. Knit 1 round; the yarn overs are knitted twisted to avoid holes.
Now work A.1 over all stitches. When A.1 has been completed in height, loosely cast off.

SLEEVES:
Place the 32-36-38-40 (42-44-48) stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-6-8 (8-8-8) stitches cast on under the sleeve = 38-42-44-48 (50-52-56) stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. Work stocking stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 3 cm from the division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker - read DECREASE TIP!
Decrease like this every 5-4-3-3 (4-5-3 ½) cm a total of 2-3-4-5 (5-5-7) times = 34-36-36-38 (40-42-42) stitches.
When the sleeve measures 11-14-15-18 (21-26-29) cm, change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. Work 2 ridges over all stitches. Cast off with knit. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the band without buttonholes.
Lay the button-band under the buttonhole-band and sew together at the bottom.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 16.05.2022
MATERIALS:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-150-150 (150-200-200) g colour 63, sea green

Diagram

	= knit
	= purl
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
	= knit 2 together

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

From the #dropsfan gallery

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Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #littlepeasweater or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Little Pea

Daniela, Slovakia

Comments / Questions (19)

Gratias wrote:

Bonjour Je n e comprends pas les points utilisés pour le diaphragme. Les symboles dessines ne sont pas expliqués merci

06.10.2024 - 09:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Gratias, pensez-vous aux ovales du diagramme (rangs 1, 7 et 13?) Ce sont des jetés = 3ème symbole de la légende; retrouvez dans cette vidéo le même point de vagues (dans la vidéo, on commence 2 tours jersey avant le point de vague de ce pull). Bon tricot!

07.10.2024 - 08:08

Lisette Benoit wrote:

Bonjour, Comment faire les 4augmentations avec 6 mailles pour en obtenir 10. Est-ce que je fais des jetés ou autre? Merci de me répondre car je suis arrêtée dans mon tricot.

26.04.2024 - 14:27

Bonjour Mme Benoit, vous pouvez choisir votre propre technique pour augmenter, donc vous pouvez par ex faire 1 jeté qui sera tricoté torse au rang suivant pour éviter 1 tour. Pour augmenter ces 4 mailles, vous pouvez par ex tricoter ainsi (1 m, 1 augm, 1 m, 1 augm, 2 m, 1 augm, 1 m, 1 augm, 1 m). Bon tricot!

26.04.2024 - 15:46

Jette Ryvang wrote:

Drops Baby 42-8 - Diagram: 1 pind strikker 2 ret sammen 3 gange, MEN forstår ikke det næste - Lav 1 omslag mellem 2 masker ?? Betyder det at jeg skal strikke 1 ret slå om, eller hvad? Har 204 masker , hvor mange masker skal der være på 1. Pind med mønster??

15.04.2024 - 08:48

Hej Jette, de første 17 masker strikkes således: 2r sm, 2r sm, 2r sm, 1oms, 1r, 1oms, 1r, 1oms, 1r, 1oms, 1r, 1oms, 1r, 1oms, 2r sm, 2r sm, 2r sm. Du har nu lige så mange omslag som du har indtagninger :)

16.04.2024 - 08:10

Hanne Elena Rørbech wrote:

Jeg har altid problemer når jeg når til de masker der skal slås op på pinden til ærmet. de kommer jo til at hænge ud i luften når man strikker videre på kropsdelen. Hvad gør jeg ??

09.09.2023 - 19:27

Hei Hanne. Jo. men disse maskene skal strikkes når du kommer til neste omgang slik at de nye maskene under ermet tilhører bolen. Ta en titt på videoen: Bluse strikket oppefra og ned og fra ca tid: 07:00. Den vil kanskje være til hjelp. Mvh DROPS Design

18.09.2023 - 10:03

Zoe wrote:

When working the pattern A.1, are we supposed to work the yarn overs twisted or just a regular knit stitch to leave a hole on the next row?

05.08.2023 - 15:37

Dear Zoe, you don't need to twist the yarn overs; knit them so as to leave holes. Happy knitting!

06.08.2023 - 21:38

Tammy wrote:

I would love to get this pattern in English Thanks Tammy Hunter

07.07.2023 - 06:42

Jane Newton wrote:

After the first decorative section of chart a I have 255 stitches. I am finding it difficult to line up the second set of the pattern with the first as I have too many stitches.

27.03.2023 - 20:11

Dear Jane, with th efeather and fan pattern, you always have to be very careful, that in each pattern repeat (k2tog 3 times, *yo, knit1* 5 times, knit one, and k2tog 3 times) , you knit as many decreases, as many yarn over in that repeat. It is easy to miscount that, and then you end up with too many stitches. It helps to put a marker after each repeat. Happy Knitting!

28.03.2023 - 07:49

VUILLOT Maryline wrote:

Empiecement , extrait du texte "Rabattre les 3 premières mailles et tricoter jusqu'à la fin du rang. Quand le rang est terminé, continuer en rond en jersey sur toutes les mailles. Décaler le début des tours au milieu du devant.\"\r\nJe ne comprends pas ce que vous voulez dire, par \" décaler \" \r\nest ce que c\'est le fait d\'avoir rabattu les 3 mailles ( patte de boutonnage) qui fait que le début du tour est décalé ? Merci pour vos précisions

07.02.2023 - 16:00

Bonjour Mme Vuillot, tout à fait, vous avez maintenant réuni l'ouvrage pour pouvoir tricoter en rond, le début des tours se trouve automatiquement avant les mailles de la bordure devant, continuer en rond, mais considérez maintenant que le milieu du devant est le début des tours (ainsi, la répartition des mailles lors de la division tombera juste). Bon tricot!

07.02.2023 - 17:04

Emilie wrote:

Hvordan strikker man stolpemasker i rille?

27.01.2023 - 18:38

Hei Emilie, Rillestrikk er å strikke rett på alle pinner, så stolpene strikkes rett både fra retten og vrangen. God fornøyelse!

30.01.2023 - 06:50

Petra wrote:

Dobrý večer, začínám plést trup, a v návodu je napsáno, že kruhová řada začíná nově u značek v podpaží. Znamená to, že nebudu plést od začátku legy ( tyto oka vynechám) ale přesunu novou řadu pletení až od těchto značek. Rozumím tomu dobře? Děkuji za odpověď. Petra

09.10.2022 - 19:56

Dobrý den, Petro, ano, přesně tak - značky umístíme do podpaží a kruhovou řadu začneme plést od jedné z těchto značek (tam bude nyní začátek/konec). Hodně zdaru! Hana

09.10.2022 - 22:53

Little Pea

Knitted jumper for babies and children in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down with raglan and wave-pattern. Sizes 0 - 6 years.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to work a jumper top down

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to increase/decrease evenly!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

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Little Pea

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Little Pea

Knitted jumper for babies and children in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down with raglan and wave-pattern. Sizes 0 - 6 years.

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