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  1. Free patterns
  2. Baby (0-4)
  3. Cardigans
  4. DROPS Baby
  5. 42
  6. 6

Dream in Blue Cardigan by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket for babies and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked top down with raglan. Sizes 0 - 4 years.

Keywords: assembly free, jacket, long sleeves, raglan, round neck, stocking stitch, top down

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DROPS Baby 42-6
DROPS Design: Pattern me-077-by
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Child’s height in cm:
48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Child’s height in feet:
1ft/1ft8 - 1ft 10/2ft - 2ft3/2ft5 - 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft – 3ft3/3ft5)

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 44-50-54-58 (62-66) cm = 17 1/4"-19 3/4"-21 1/4"-22 3/4" (24 3/8"-26")
Full length: 24-28-30-33 (36-40) cm = 9 1/2"-11"-11 3/4"-13" (14 1/4"-15 3/4")
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150-150-200-200 (200-250) g color 39, ice blue

DROPS BUTTONS NO 627: 5-5-5-5 (6-6) items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 80 cm = 32”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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100% Wool 		from 4.55 $ /50g
DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.55 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix DROPS Merino Extra Fine mix 4.55 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.65$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row, knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures 1½-2 cm = 1/2"-3/4". Then work the other 4-4-4-4 (5-5) buttonholes with approx. 5-6-6½-7 (6½-7) cm = 2"-2 3/8"-2 1/2"-2 3/4" (2 1/2"-2 3/4") between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 65-69-73-77 (81-87) stitches with circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and DROPS Merino Extra Fine.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side with 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, on each side.
Then work rib as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Remember the BUTTONHOLES – read description above.
When the rib measures 2 cm = 3/4", change to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6. Insert 1 marker after the band at the beginning of the row; the yoke is measured from this marker!

YOKE:
Work the next row from the right side as follows:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, knit 5-6-7-8 (8-10), 1 yarn over, A.1,
1 yarn over, knit 6-6-6-6 (8-8), 1 yarn over, A.1, 1 yarn over, knit 13-15-17-19 (19-21), 1 yarn over, A.1, 1 yarn over, knit 6-6-6-6 (8-8), 1 yarn over, A.1, 1 yarn over, knit 5-6-7-8 (8-10) and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
You have increased 8 stitches for raglan. The yarn overs are purled twisted on the next row and continued in stockinette stitch. Continue the pattern and increase on each side of A.1 on each row from the right side a total of 11-13-14-15 (17-18) times = 153-173-185-197 (217-231) stitches.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!

When the piece measures 9-10-11-12 (13-14) cm = 3 1/2"-4"-4 3/8"-4 3/4" (5 1/8"-5 1/2") from the marker, divide the yoke for the body and sleeves as follows:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, work 19-22-24-26 (29-32) stitches in stockinette stitch, place the next 32-36-38-40 (44-46) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8 (6-6) stitches, work 41-47-51-55 (61-65) stitches in stockinette stitch, place the next 32-36-38-40 (44-46) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8 (6-6) stitches, work 19-22-24-26 (29-32) stitches in stockinette stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.

BODY:
= 101-113-125-133 (141-151) stitches.
Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side until the body measures 10-13-14-16 (18-21) cm = 4"-5 1/8"-5 1/2"-6 1/4" (7"-8 1/4") from the division. Now increase 10-12-14-14 (16-16) stitches evenly spaced on the next row from the right side (do not increase over the bands) = 111-125-139-147 (157-167) stitches.
Change to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 and work rib, starting from the wrong side as follows:
5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, purl 1 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Bind off when the rib measures 3 cm = 1 1/8". The jacket measures approx. 24-28-30-33 (36-40) cm = 9 1/2"-11"-11 3/4"-13" (14 1/4"-15 3/4") from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 32-36-38-40 (44-46) stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8 (6-6) stitches cast on under the sleeve = 38-42-46-48 (50-52) stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve (= mid-under sleeve). Start at the marker and work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 2 cm = 3/4" from the division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker - read DECREASE TIP!
Decrease like this every 3-3-2-2½ (3-4) cm = 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-3/4"-1" (1 1/8"-1 1/2") a total of 2-3-5-5 (5-5) times = 34-36-36-38 (40-42) stitches.
When the sleeve measures 8-11-12-15 (18-23) cm = 3 1/8"-4 3/8"-4 3/4"-6" (7"-9"), increase 4-4-4-4 (4-6) stitches evenly spaced = 38-40-40-42 (44-48) stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5 and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 2 cm = 3/4". Bind off. The sleeve measures approx. 10-13-14-17 (20-25) cm = 4"-5 1/8"-5 1/2"-6 3/4" (8"-9 3/4").
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 42-6) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (27)

country flag Isabel Resendiz wrote:

¡Me encanta tu patrón! Primera vez que tejo un suéter en manga ranglan y ha sido más fácil de lo que pensé. En alguna vuelta en el canesú no me coincidieron exactamente los números, pero confié en tus indicaciones y seguí adelante. Al llegar al cuerpo, todo bien…. Muchas gracias 😊

30.05.2023 - 21:46

country flag Anette Lindström wrote:

Tyvärr tycker jag att den här beskrivningen är något av den sämsta beskrivningen jag någonsin har stött på, koftan är jättefin så jag får kämpa på.Efter ökningar,mäts arbetet från start av resår eller markör efter resår?\r\nMvh\r\nAnette

02.05.2023 - 12:42

country flag Ilia Ravello Vidal wrote:

Guten Abend, ich stricke der Passe für grösse 6/9 , mit 73 maschen ich habe die Arbeit schon 5x aufgemacht weil mir bleiben 4 Maschen übrig vor die 5 Blenden Maschen ,was mache ich falsch ????

24.04.2023 - 21:24

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Ravello Vidal, so stricken Sie die 73 Maschen: 5 Blenden-Maschen, dann stricken Sie (1 Masche rechts, 1 Masche links) insgesamt 31 Mal (=über die nächsten 62 Maschen), dann stricken Sie 1 Masche rechts (so ist das Bündchen symmetrisch) und 5 Blenden-Maschen = 5+62+1+5=73 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.04.2023 kl. 08:21

country flag Dorthe Ellesen Rasmussen wrote:

Hej Jeg er i tvivl om hvad I mener når I skriver “sæt mærker efter forkant på begyndelsen af pinden midt foran” På forhånd tak for hjælpen

01.03.2023 - 17:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Dorthe. Etter du har strikket halskanten, strikk stolpemaskene, sett merket. Det skal måles fra dette merke. mvh DROPS Design

06.03.2023 kl. 13:06

country flag Bunny McBee wrote:

I am having trouble with the yoke. This is how I understand it: knit 5 sts 1 yo,A.1 means to now do 2 purl, 1 knit, 2 purl. To increase on each side of A.1 does that mean the increase is done before the P2 and then after the following P2? Thank you for your help.

25.02.2023 - 03:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Bunny, work the 5 edge stitches, then (if working the smallest size), knit 5 sts, 1 yo, A.1 (=p2, k1, p2), 1yo.... So, yes, you increase before the first p2 and after the 2nd p2, where the yo are worked in the first row. Happy knitting!

26.02.2023 kl. 22:27

country flag Bunny McBee wrote:

Beginning in the yoke section the directions say: 1 yo, A.1, 1 yo What does A.1 mean? I love your patterns but find them a little difficult to understand. Thank you so much for your help

22.02.2023 - 22:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs McBee, A.1 is the name of the diagram for the raglan stitches - see at the right side of measurement chart, A.1 is a diagram worked over 5 sts and 4 rows - read more about diagrams here. Happy knitting!

23.02.2023 kl. 14:57

country flag Tyra wrote:

Hei! Jeg har fullført bærestykket/alle økingene med kast og A1. Etter det står det "Når arbeidet måler (i mitt tilfelle) 11 cm". For det første lurer jeg på hvor det merket man skal måle fra egentlig skulle vært plassert (syntes det var litt utydelig i forklaringen)? For det andre lurer jeg på hva jeg gjør om jeg er ferdig med bærestykket og det ikke måler 11 cm? Skal jeg bare fortsette med glattstrikk uten kast og A1 før jeg setter av til ermer? På forhånd takk!

13.12.2022 - 15:16

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Tyra, Merket er plassert rett etter halskanten slik at du måler kun bærestykket . Hvis du ikke har nådd riktig mål, fortsett med glattstrikk og A.1 til riktig mål (uten flere økninger). God fornøyelse!

14.12.2022 kl. 08:10

country flag Anke wrote:

Hallo, ich stricke gerade den Dream in Blue Cardigan und bin bei der Passe mit den Raglanzunahmen angelangt. In der Anleitung steht, dass die Umschläge in der Rückreihe alle links verschränkt gestrickt werden. Das ergibt leider ein ungleiches Bild (eine Seite Löcher, andere Seite direkter Übergang) - eigentlich müsste doch so abgestrickt werden, dass sich die Maschen entsprechend nach rechts und links neigen. Wie bekomme ich das hin? Danke im Voraus für die Hilfe!

19.10.2022 - 10:57

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anke, dieses Video zeigt, wie man die Umschläge stricken kann, so daß sie sich entweder links oder rechts neigen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.10.2022 kl. 13:08

country flag Petra wrote:

Ich möchte diese Jacke Dream für gr. 5/6 jährige stricken. Könnten sie mir da weiterhelfen?

07.10.2022 - 14:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Petra, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage anpassen, aber hier finden Sie alle unsere Jacken (von oben nach unten gestrickt - Größe 5/6 Jahre) - hoffentlich kann es Ihnen helfen bzw inspirieren. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.10.2022 kl. 16:07

country flag Dominique wrote:

Bonjour, est-ce qu'un modèle comme celui-ci peut se tricoter de la même manière et avec les mêmes dimensions au point mousse (sauf pour le raglan )? Merci et bonne journée

05.10.2022 - 14:04

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Dominique, en général, on a le même nombre de mailles en largeur au point mousse et en jersey, mais effectivement, la hauteur sera différente car il faut plus de rangs point mousse que de jersey pour la même hauteur, et on aura besoin de davantage de laine. Vous pourrez retrouvez ici tous nos modèles gilets & vestes bébé tricotés au point mousse, l'un d'eux pourra probablement vous inspirer. Bon tricot!

06.10.2022 kl. 07:54

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