Meow Meow Sweater by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater for babies and children in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down with raglan and an embroidered cat. Sizes 0 - 4 years.

Keywords: a-shape, animals, embroidery, graphic, long sleeves, raglan, round neck, sweater, top down

DROPS Baby 42-2
DROPS Design: Pattern z-110-by
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Child’s height in cm:
48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Child’s height in feet:
1ft/1ft8 - 1ft 10/2ft - 2ft3/2ft5 - 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft – 3ft3/3ft5)

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 44-50-54-58 (62-66) cm = 17 1/4"-19 3/4"-21 1/4"-22 3/4" (24 3/8"-26")
Full length: 24-28-30-33 (36-40) cm = 9 1/2"-11"-11 3/4"-13" (14 1/4"-15 3/4")
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100-150 (150-150) g color 9020, light pearl grey

For the embroidery use:
DROPS Karisma from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
color 16, dark grey

DROPS BUTTONS NO 521: 1-1-2-2 (2-2) items (only needed if you work the split at the back).

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 40 cm = 16”.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5: Length 40 cm = 16”.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm = 32” in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Magic loop – See the technique here
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca

from 3.90 $ /50g

Order

	DROPS Alpaca uni colour	3.90 $ /50g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order
	DROPS Alpaca mix	4.00 $ /50g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Work to the marker-stitch, 1 yarn over, knit the marker-stitch, 1 yarn over. Increase like this at each marker-stitch (8 stitches increased). On the next row/round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on either side of the marker as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BUTTONHOLES (if you work the split at the back):
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row, knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the piece measures 1½ cm = 1/2". Then work the other 0-0-1-1 (1-1) buttonhole after 4 cm = 1 1/2".

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The yoke is worked in the round, top down. If you would like a split at the back, begin by working back and forth, then continue in the round. The yoke is divided for the body and sleeves and the body continued in the round. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

WITHOUT SPLIT AT THE BACK:
If you want a split start at the next section.
Cast on 60-68-72-76 (84-88) stitches with double pointed needles/short circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and DROPS Alpaca.
Knit 1 round.
Then work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 2 cm = 3/4". Change to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5. Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (mid-back), the yoke is measured from this marker!
Knit 1 round and increase 12-12-8-16 (12-16) stitches evenly spaced = 72-80-80-92 (96-104) stitches.

Now insert 4 markers without working the stitches as follows:
Count 11-13-13-16 (17-19) stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 12 stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 22-26-26-32 (34-38) stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 12 stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch, there are 11-13-13-16 (17-19) stitches left after the last marker.
Work stockinette stitch and increase to RAGLAN – read description above, every 2nd round a total of 12-14-16-17 (18-19) times = 168-192-208-228 (240-256) stitches.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Now go to SWEATER below.

WITH SPLIT AT THE BACK:
Cast on 66-74-78-82 (90-94) stitches with circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and DROPS Alpaca. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) with 6 stitches in GARTER STITCH on each side – read description above. Remember the BUTTONHOLES – read description above.
When the rib measures 2 cm = 3/4", change to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5.
Insert 1 marker inside the 6 stitches at the beginning of the row; the yoke is measured from this marker!
Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 12-12-8-16 (12-16) stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands) = 78-86-86-98 (102-110) stitches.

Now insert 4 markers without working the stitches as follows:
Count 14-16-16-19 (20-22) stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 12 stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 22-26-26-32 (34-38) stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch, count 12 stitches, insert 1 marker in the next stitch there are 14-16-16-19 (20-22) stitches left after the last marker. Work in stockinette stitch with 6 stitches in garter stitch on each side.
On the next row from the right side increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker-stitch – read RAGLAN! Increase like this on each row from the right side a total of 12-14-16-17 (18-19) times.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 4-4-5-6 (6-6) cm = 1 1/2"-1 1/2"-2"-2 3/8" (2 3/8"-2 3/8"), work the next row from the right side as follows:
Bind off the first 6 stitches, work to the end of the row.
Now continue in the round with stockinette stitch (continue to increase to raglan every 2nd round). When all the increases to raglan are finished, there are 168-192-208-228 (240-256) stitches.
Move the beginning of the round to mid-back.

SWEATER:
When the piece measures 9-10-11-12 (13-14) cm = 3 1/2"-4"-4 3/8"-4 3/4" (5 1/8"-5 1/2") from the marker on the neck, divide the yoke for the body and sleeves as follows:
Knit 23-27-29-32 (34-37), place the next 38-42-46-50 (52-54) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6 stitches, knit 46-54-58-64 (68-74), place the next 38-42-46-50 (52-54) stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6 stitches and knit 23-27-29-32 (34-37).

BODY:
= 104-120-128-140 (148-160) stitches.
Continue with stockinette stitch for 10-13-14-16 (18-21) cm = 4"-5 1/8"-5 1/2"-6 1/4" (7"-8 1/4") from the division. On the next round increase 12-12-12-12 (16-16) stitches evenly spaced = 116-132-140-152 (164-176) stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 3 cm = 1 1/8". Bind off.

SLEEVES:
Place the 38-42-46-50 (52-54) stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 44-48-52-56 (58-60) stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. Start at the marker and work stockinette stitch in the round.
When the sleeve measures 1 cm = 3/8" from the division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker - read DECREASE TIP!
Decrease like this every 2½-2½-1½-2 (2-3) cm = 1"-1"-1/2"-3/4" (3/4"-1 1/8") a total of 3-4-6-7 (7-7) times = 38-40-40-42 (44-46) stitches.
When the sleeve measures 8-11-12-15 (18-23) cm = 3 1/8"-4 3/8"-4 3/4"-6" (7"-9"), increase 2-4-4-6 (4-6) stitches evenly spaced = 40-44-44-48 (48-52) stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 2 cm = 3/4". Bind off.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

EMBROIDERED CAT:
Embroider a cat on the front piece – see diagrams A and B.
The cat’s nose is worked in the middle of the sweater, 6 cm = 2 3/8" below the neck. The cat’s ears are worked approx. 1½ and 2 cm = 1/2” and 3/4" below the neck and 5 cm = 2" in from each raglan-line.

ASSEMBLY:
If you have worked a split at the back, sew the buttons onto the left band.
Lay the left band under the right band and sew together at the bottom.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= Back stitch, Pictures 1-6. PICTURE 1: Insert the needle from the wrong side and to the right side where you wish the stitch to start. PICTURE 2: Skip 1-1.5 cm = 3/8"-1/2”, insert the needle down and then up to the right side again approx. 1 -1.5 cm = 3/8"-1/2”, further on. PICTURE 3: Pull the strand through. You have worked a stitch with a gap to the next stitch. PICTURE 4: Insert the needle in the hole where the previous stitch ended and bring the needle up on the right side approx. 1 -1.5 cm = 3/8"-1/2”, further on. If you want several back stitches, repeat picture 4. PICTURE 5: When the last back stitch has been worked, insert the needle where the previous stitch ended. Pull the strand to the wrong side, cut and fasten the strand. PICTURE 6: Back stitch. Can be worked vertically, horizontally, diagonally and round in a circle.
	= motif embroidered on the front piece.
	= 1 back stitch

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 42-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ).

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

2) What are the yarn groups?

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

8) What is a repeat?

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

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