DROPS design: Pattern as-149
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 80-88-96-106-118-130 cm = 31 1/2"-34 5/8"-37 3/4"-41 3/4"-46 1/2"-51 1/4"
Full length: 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
125-150-150-175-175-200 g color 20, pink sand

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8 : Length 40 = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 2.75 $ /25g
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk uni colour 2.75 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.75$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE TIP-1 (applies to armholes):
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase inside 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the increased stitches in stockinette stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (applies to sides of body):
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in the side by making 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-3 (applies to neckline at the front):
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase for neck 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes - increase after last stitch in stockinette stitch before A.1 and before first stitch in stockinette stitch after A.2. Work the increased stitches in stockinette stitch.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase/decrease evenly, count the stitches to be increased/decreased (e.g. 18 stitches), and divide by stitches of increases/decreases to be done (e.g. 7) = 2.6.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately approx. every 2nd and 3rd stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes
If decreasing knit in this example alternately approx. every 1st and 2nd stitch and every 2nd and 3rd stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides of body):
All decreases are done from the right side!
Decrease inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Decrease as follows after 1 edge stitch in garter stitch: Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased).
Decrease as follows before 1 edge stitch in garter stitch: Work until 2 stitches remain before edge stitch, knit 2 together(= 1 stitch decreased).

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to mid under sleeves):
Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 stitches (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

BIND-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 3rd stitch while binding off (bind off yarn overs as regular stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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WRAP-AROUND JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work back piece and front pieces back and forth in parts separately, top down. Then pick up stitches for ties. Sleeve cap is worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Then work the rest of sleeve in the round on circular needle/double pointed needles.

RIGHT SHOULDER BACK (when garment is worn):
Cast on 22-22-22-22-22-22 stitches on circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 with Brushed Alpaca Silk. Work 1 ridge in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, over all stitches. Switch to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8. Then work the outermost 3 stitches in each side of piece in garter stitch and work the remaining stitches in stockinette stitch. When piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8", work, next row from wrong side as follows: Work as before over all stitches and cast on 16-18-18-20-22-24 new stitches at the end of row for neck = 38-40-40-42-44-46 stitches. Cut the yarn. Put piece aside and work the left shoulder at the back.

LEFT SHOULDER BACK (when garment is worn):
Cast on 22-22-22-22-22-22 stitches on circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 with Brushed Alpaca Silk. Work 1 ridge over all stitches. Switch to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8. Then work the outermost 3 stitches in each side of piece in garter stitch and work the remaining stitches in stockinette stitch. Continue like this until piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8"– adjust to finish with last row from wrong side. Then work back piece as explained below.

BACK PIECE:
Slip left and right shoulder on to same circular needle so that the 16-18-18-20-22-24 new stitches cast on for neck are in the middle of needle = 60-62-62-64-66-68 stitches.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Work pattern from the right side as follows: 3 stitches in garter stitch, stockinette over the next 16-16-16-16-16-16 stitches, garter stitch over the next 22-24-24-26-28-30 stitches, stockinette stitch over the next 16-16-16-16-16-16 stitches, 3 stitches in garter stitch.
Continue back and forth like this until 3 ridges have been worked over stitches for neck. Then work in stockinette stitch with 3 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side towards armholes. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-14-8-12-10-7 cm = 6 3/4"-5 1/2"-3 1/8"-4 3/4"-4"-2 3/4" from cast-on edge on shoulders, increase 1 stitch in each side for armholes – read INCREASE TIP-1. Increase like this every 4th-4th-4th-2nd-2nd-2nd row, 2-4-8-11-15-19 times in total in each side= 64-70-78-86-96-106 stitches. Piece measures approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm = 7 1/2"-8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9 1/2" from cast-on edge.

Now cast on 3 new stitches for armholes at the end of the next 2 rows = 70-76-84-92-102-112 stitches. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Work 4 rows in stockinette stitch with 6 stitches in garter stitch in each side. Then work in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2" from armhole, decrease 1 stitch in each side - read DECREASE TIP-1 (= 2 stitches decreased). Repeat decrease when piece measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 cm = 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/2"-3 1/2"-4"-4" = 4” and 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm = 4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5 1/2"-6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4" = 64-70-78-86-96-106 stitches.
When piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm = 6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7"-7 1/2"-8", increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side - READ INCREASE TIP-2 (= 2 stitches increased). Repeat increase when piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm = 7 1/2"-8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9 1/2" and 23-24-25-26-27-28 cm = 9"-9 1/2"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11" = 70-76-84-92-102-112 stitches. Continue until piece measures 24-25-26-27-28-29 cm = 9 1/2"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11"-11 3/8" from armhole and increase 8-8-9-10-12-14 stitches evenly on last row from wrong side = 78-84-93-102-114-126 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and work next row from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 2 stitches remain on needle, knit 1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 3 cm = 1 1/8". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read BIND-OFF TIP. Back piece measures approx. 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22" from shoulder and down.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Cast on 22-22-22-22-22-22 stitches on circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 with Brushed Alpaca Silk. Work 1 ridge over all stitches. Switch to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8. Work next row from right side as follows: 3 edge stitches in garter stitch towards armhole, 4-4-4-4-4-4 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.1 (= 15 stitches). Continue pattern back and stockinette stitch back and forth like this.
When piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2", increase for neck line before A.1 (seen from right side) - read INCREASE TIP-3. Increase like this on every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 4 times in all sizes, then every 4th row (i.e. every other row from right side) 8-8-9-11-12-13 times in total, every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 11-12-11-10-10-10 times in total and finally very 4th row 2-2-2-2-2-2 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-14-8-12-10-7 cm = 6 3/4"-5 1/2"-3 1/8"-4 3/4"-4"-2 3/4", increase for armhole the same way as on back piece, i.e. increase inside 3 stitches in garter stitch towards armhole at the beginning of row (seen from right side). When increase for armhole is done (2-4-8-11-15-19 stitches have been increased for armhole) piece approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm = 7 1/2"-8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9 1/2" from cast-on edge on shoulder. At the end of next row from wrong side cast on 3 new stitches for armhole.
Continue as before with A.1 towards mid front, increase for neck line and stockinette stitch but over the outermost 6 stitches towards the side work 2 ridges (i.e. this is done on the next 4 rows). Then work in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side, and A.1 towards mid front (continue increase as before).
When piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2" from armhole, decrease 1 stitch in the side - remember DECREASE TIP-1. Repeat decrease when piece measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 = 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/2"-3 1/2"-4"-4" and 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm = 4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5 1/2"-6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4". When piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm = 6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7"-7 1/2"-8", increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side - remember INCREASE TIP-2. Repeat increase when piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm = 7 1/2"-8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9 1/2" and 23-24-25-26-27-28 cm = 9"-9 1/2"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11". When all increases towards mid front are done, continue pattern as before until increases in the side are done.
When all increases and decreases are done there are 52-55-59-63-68-73 stitches on row. Work until piece measures 24-25-26-27-28-29 cm = 9 1/2"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11"-11 3/8" from armhole. On next row increase 6-9-8-7-8-9 stitches evenly = 58-64-67-70-76-82 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6. Now work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 1 *, repeat from *-* until 15 stitches remain on needle, work A.1 over the last 15 stitches (rib should fit A.1).
Continue rib like this for 3 cm = 1 1/8". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember BIND-OFF TIP. Front piece measures approx. 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22" from shoulder.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 22-22-22-22-22-22 stitches on circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 with Brushed Alpaca Silk. Work 1 ridge over all stitches. Switch to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8. Work next row from right side as follows: A.2 (= 15 stitches), 4-4-4-4-4-4 stitches in stockinette stitch, 3 stitches in garter stitch towards armhole. Continue pattern back and stockinette stitch back and forth like this.
When piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2", increase for neck line after A.2 (seen from right side) - remember INCREASE TIP-3. Increase like this on every other row 4 times in all sizes, then every 4th row (i.e. every other row from right side) 8-8-9-11-12-13 times in total, every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 11-12-11-10-10-10 times in total and finally every 4th row 2-2-2-2-2-2 times. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 17-14-8-12-10-7 cm = 6 3/4"-5 1/2"-3 1/8"-4 3/4"-4"-2 3/4", increase for armhole the same way as on back piece piece and right front piece, i.e. increase inside 3 stitches in garter stitch towards armhole at the end of row (seen from right side). When increase for armhole is done (2-4-8-11-15-19 stitches have been increased for armhole) piece approx. 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm = 7 1/2"-8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9 1/2" from cast-on edge on shoulder. At the end of next row from right side cast on 3 new stitches for armhole.
Continue as before with A.2 towards mid front, increase for neck line and stockinette stitch but over the outermost 6 stitches towards the side work 2 ridges (i.e. this is done on the next 4 rows). Then work in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side, , and A.2 towards mid front (continue increase as before).
When piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2" from armhole, decrease 1 stitch in the side - remember DECREASE TIP-1. Repeat decrease when piece measures 8-8-9-9-10-10 = 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/2"-3 1/2"-4"-4" and 12-13-14-15-16-17 cm = 4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5 1/2"-6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4". When piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm = 6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7"-7 1/2"-8", increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in the side - remember INCREASE TIP-2. Repeat increase when piece measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm = 7 1/2"-8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9 1/2" and 23-24-25-26-27-28 cm = 9"-9 1/2"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11".
When all increases and decreases are done there are 52-55-59-63-68-73 stitches on row. Work until piece measures 24-25-26-27-28-29 cm = 9 1/2"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11"-11 3/8" from armhole. On next row increase 6-9-8-7-8-9 stitches evenly = 58-64-67-70-76-82 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 4 MM = US 6. Now work rib as follows: A.2 over the first 15 stitches, * knit 1, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain, purl 2, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
Continue rib like this for 3 cm = 1 1/8". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember BIND-OFF TIP. Front piece measures approx. 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm = 18"-19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22" from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 20-20-20-22-22-22 stitches on circular needle size 5 MM = US 8.
Knit 1 row from right side while increasing 7-8-9-8-8-8 stitches evenly (but do not increase over the outermost stitch in each side) - read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 27-28-29-30-30-30 stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Work next row as follows from right side: Knit 1, work 2 stitches in each of the next 25-26-27-28-28-28 stitches (i.e. work in front and back loop of stitch), knit 1 = 52-54-56-58-58-58 stitches.
Work stockinette stitch back and forth to sleeve cap, and cast at the same time on new stitches at the end of every row in each side as follows: Cast on 3 stitches 1 time in each side, 2 stitches 3-3-3-3-4-4 times in each side, 1 stitch 0-1-2-3-3-6 times in each side, 2 stitches 3-3-3-3-3-3 times in each side, and then 3 stitches 1 time in each side = 88-92-96-100-104-110 stitches.
Work in stockinette stitch in the round. When piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2" from where it was put together, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP-2. Decrease like this every 4-4-3-3-2-2 cm = 1 1/2"-1 1/2"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-3/4"-3/4" 3-3-4-4-5-6 times in total = 82-86-88-92-94-98 stitches. Work until piece measures 38-37-37-39-40-40 cm = 15"-14 1/2"-14 1/2"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-15 3/4" from cast-on edge. Knit 1 round while decreasing 14-14-12-12-14-14 stitches evenly = 68-72-76-80-80-84 stitches. Work next round as follows: * Knit 2, knit 2 together(= 1 stitch decreased) *, work from *-* the entire round= 51-54-57-60-60-63 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6 and work rib in the round = knit 1/purl 2 for 7 cm = 2 3/4". Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BIND-OFF TIP. Sleeve measures approx. 45-45-46-46-47-47 cm = 17 3/4"-17 3/4"-18"-18"-18 1/2"-18 1/2" from cast-on edge and down. Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside bind-off edge. Sew side seam inside 1 edge stitch but leave an opening in each side to thread the ties through - place opening approx. 8 cm = 3 1/8" from bottom edge and 2½-3 cm = 1"-1 1/8" up towards armholes.
Sew sleeves to body by placing sleeves under edge in garter stitch along armholes and sewing small stitches from right side (there should not be a loose edge when sewing, and sew in outermost stitch in garter stitch from right side, so that the edge in garter stitch lies nicely outside sleeve).

TIES:
RIGHT FRONT PIECE AT THE FRONT:
Start with needle size 4 MM = US 6 and Brushed Alpaca Silk, and pick up 7 stitches from the right side along right front piece approx. 8 cm = 3 1/8" from bind-off edge at the bottom. Work first row on tie from wrong side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work until tie measures approx. 84 = 33" to 94 cm = 37". Bind off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE AT THE FRONT:
Start with needle size 4 MM = US 6 and Brushed Alpaca Silk, and pick up 7 stitches from the right side along left front piece approx. 8 cm = 3 1/8" from bind-off edge at the bottom. Work first row on tie as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, knit 1, purl 1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work until tie measures approx. 40 cm = 15 3/4". Bind off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
diagram
diagram
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 222-8) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

country flag Ulrikke wrote:

Hi, Does the recipe knit with two threads of Brushed alpaca silk or is it only one thread?

24.10.2021 - 11:23:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ulrikke, this is knitted with only one thread of Brushed Alpaca Silk. Happy knitting!

24.10.2021 kl. 12:05:

country flag Liz wrote:

Good morning, I am struggling to understand where I need to carry on increasing, "Continue as before with A.1 towards mid front, increase for neck line and stocking stitch but over the outermost 6 stitches towards the side work 2 ridges (i.e. this is done on the next 4 rows)." Sorry if i am being a bit thick, but can you explain which are the outer most 6sts? Thank you

13.10.2021 - 09:42:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Liz, this means that for the next 4 rows you will have to work as before over all stiches but knit the last 6 sts from RS/first 6 stitches from WS (= towards armhole/side). Can this help?

13.10.2021 kl. 14:02:

country flag Landy wrote:

Bonjour, est ce que ce modèle se réalise avec un seul fil en alpaca silk ou 2 fils? merci

17.09.2021 - 17:21:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Landy, ce modèle se réalise avec un seul fil en Alpaca Silk.

19.09.2021 kl. 22:35:

country flag Ilona wrote:

Ben ik de enige die de patroonuitleg ingewikkeld vind?

01.09.2021 - 16:34:

country flag Salla wrote:

Translated into Finnish please

27.04.2021 - 11:25:

country flag Simona wrote:

Si può realizzare con lana mohair?

10.03.2021 - 22:37:

country flag Logal wrote:

J'aime ce modèle j'attends les explications avec impatience

15.02.2021 - 13:12:

country flag Emilie wrote:

Cœur de danseuse

15.01.2021 - 13:48:

country flag Helene wrote:

"Rose petals"

11.01.2021 - 22:53:

country flag Eva wrote:

Summer dream

10.01.2021 - 23:35:

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