DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.80 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Baby Leaf Sweater

Knitted sweater for baby and kids in DROPS Alaska. Piece is knitted with raglan and cables, top down. Size 6 month - 8 years

DROPS Baby & Children 38-9
DROPS design: Pattern x-004-by
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8) years
Size equals approx. kid’s height in cm:
68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128)
Size equals approx. kid’s height in feet:
2ft3/2ft5 - 2ft7/2ft9 (3ft - 3ft3/3ft5 - 3ft3/3ft5 – 3ft7/3ft9)

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 60-66 (70-72-76-82) cm = 23⅝"-26" (27½"-28⅜"-29½"-32¼")
Full length: 30-33 ( 36-40-44-48) cm = 11¾"-13" ( 14¼"-15¾"-17¼"-19")
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-250 (250-300-300) g color 59, lemon

KNITTING GAUGE:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9: Length 40 = 16" and 60 = 24" or 80 cm = 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7: Length 40 = 16" or 60 cm = 24" for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.80 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.20$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

BIND-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a larger needle size. If this also is too tight, work a 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while binding off (bind off yarn overs as regular stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Worked top down. Work neck edge in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle. Work yoke with cables and raglan increase on circular needle. Divide piece for body and sleeves. Continue body in the round on circular needle with cables. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 52-52 (60-60-68-68) stitches on double pointed needles/circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7 with Alaska.
Knit 1 round. Round starts approx. mid back.
Then work rib as follows:
Half back piece: * Knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over 4-4 (4-4-8-8) stitches, A.1 (= 5 stitches).
Right sleeve: * Purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* over the next 6-6 (10-10-10-10) stitches (i.e. begin and end with purl 2).
Front piece: A.2 (= 5 stitches), * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* over the next 10-10 (10-10-14-14) stitches (i.e. begin and end with purl 2), A.1 over 5 stitches.
Left sleeve: * Purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* over the next 6-6 (10-10-10-10) stitches (i.e. begin and end with purl 2).
Half back piece: A.2 over 5 stitches, * purl 2, knit 2 *, over the last 6 stitches (i.e. begin and end with purl 2).
Continue with knit over knit and purl over purl until piece measures 3 cm = 1⅛". Insert 1 marker at the beginning of round, measure from this marker!
Switch to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and work yoke as follows:

YOKE:
Work next round as follows:
Half back piece: Knit 3-3 (3-3-7-7) while increasing 0-1 (2-3-1-3) stitches evenly, 1 yarn over, A.3 (= 7 stitches).
Right sleeve: 1 yarn over, knit 4-4 (8-8-8-8) while increasing 4-4 (0-2-2-2) stitches evenly, 1 yarn over.
Front piece: A.4 (= 7 stitches), 1 yarn over, knit 8-8 (8-8-12-12) while increasing 0-2 (4-6-2-6) stitches evenly, 1 yarn over, A.3 over 7 stitches.
Left sleeve: 1 yarn over, knit 4-4 (8-8-8-8) while increasing 4-4 (0-2-2-2) stitches evenly, 1 yarn over.
Half back piece: A.4 over 7 stitches, 1 yarn over, knit 5 while increasing 0-1 (2-3-1-3) stitches evenly.
8-12 (8-16-8-16) stitches have been increased evenly in total, 1 yarn over on each side of A.3/A.4 (= 8 stitches increased in total for raglan) and 1 stitch in every A.3/A.4 (= 4 stitches) = 72-76 (80-88-88-96) stitches in total on row.
Knit yarn overs on each side of A.3/A.4 on next round to make holes.
Do work the other yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
Continue with A.3 and A.4 and stockinette stitch over the remaining stitches and increase every other round 10-11 (12-12-13-14) times in total (including the first increase explained above)= 144-156 (168-176-184-200 ) stitches.
When A.3a and A.4a have been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.3a and A.4a vertically.REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
After all increases piece measures approx. 10-11 (12-12-13-14) cm = 4"-4⅜" (4¾"-4¾"-5⅛"-5½") from marker.
Then work as before without increases until piece measures 11-12 (13-14-15-16) cm = 4⅜"-4¾" (5⅛"-5½"-6"-6¼"). Now divide the piece for body and sleeves on next round as follows:
Work over the first 21-23 (25-26-29-32) stitches as before, slip the next 28-30 (32-34-36-38) stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 6 stitches under sleeve, work as before over the next 44-48 (52-54-56-62) stitches, slip the next 28-30 (32-34-36-38) stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 6 stitches under sleeve and work the last 23-25 (27-28-27-30) stitches as before.

BODY:
= 100-108 (116-120-124-136) stitches. Continue in the round with stockinette stitch and A.3/A.4 as before. Work stitches cast on under sleeve in in stockinette stitch.
When piece measures 13-15 (17-20-23-26) cm = 5⅛"-6" (6¾"-8"-9"-10¼") from division (approx. 3 cm = 1⅛" remain), work next round as follows:
Knit 13-15 (17-18-21-24) while increasing 0-2 (4-3-4-1) stitches evenly, A.3a as before, knit 6 while increasing 2 stitches evenly, A.4a as before, knit 28-32 (36-38-40-46) while increasing 4-4 (4-6-4-6) evenly, A.3a as before, knit 6 while increasing 2 stitches evenly, A.4a as before, knit 15-17 (19-20-19-22) while increasing 4-2 (0-3-0-5) stitches evenly = 112-120 (128-136-136-152) stitches.
Switch to circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7.
Then work rib as follows:
* Purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* over the first 12-16 (20-20-24-24) stitches, purl 1, A.3b over A.3a, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over 6 stitches, purl 1, A.4b over A.4a, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over 30-34 (38-42-42-50) stitches, purl 1, A.3b over A.3a, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over 6 stitches, purl 1, A.4b over A.4a, purl 1, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over 18-18 (18-22-18-26) stitches (i.e. begin and end with knit 2). Continue with knit over knit and purl over purl until piece measures 16-18 (20-23-26-29) cm = 6¼"-7" (8"-9"-10¼"-11⅜") from division. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl - read BIND-OFF TIP.
Sweater measures approx. 30-33 (36-40-44-48) cm = 11¾"-13" (14¼"-15¾"-17¼"-19") from shoulder and down.

SLEEVES:
Slip the 28-30 (32-34-36-38) stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 5.5 MM = US 9 and pick up 1 stitch in each of the 6 stitches cast on under sleeve = 34-36 (38-40-42-44) stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 6 new stitches under the sleeve. Decrease on each side of this marker later.
Work in stockinette stitch in the round.
When sleeve measures 3 cm = 1⅛" from division, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker - read DECREASE TIP (= 2 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 3-2½ (3½-5-5½-6) cm = 1⅛"-1" (1¼"-2"-2⅛"-2⅜") 3-4 (4-4-4-4) times in total = 28-28 (30-32-34-36) stitches.
When piece measures 13-15 (18-22-25-29) cm = 5⅛"-6" (7"-8¾"-9¾"-11⅜") from division, increase 0-0 (2-0-2-0) stitches evenly = 28-28 (32-32-36-36) stitches.
Switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 MM = US 7.
Work rib (= knit 2/purl 2). Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl when sleeve measures 16-18 (21-25-28-32) cm = 6¼"-7" (8¼"-9¾"-11"-12½") from division.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 21.04.2023
YOKE: ... When A.3a and A.4a have been worked 1 time vertically, repeat A.3a and A.4a vertically.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, work yarn over twisted on next round
symbols = slip 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = knit 2 together
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (72)

country flag Linn wrote:

Stickar minsta storleken. Antal maskor stämmer inte med förväntat antal maskor i första varvet på oket om inga ökningar görs. Nu gjorde jag ökningar enligt strl 2 för att få in diagrammen men totalt antal maskor stämmer sedan ändå överens med minsta storleken…

19.05.2024 - 18:15

country flag Lydie wrote:

Bonjour pouvez vous me dire où place t on les torsades A4a et A3a ? Apres les jetés , avant ? Ce n'est pas indiqué. Merci beaucoup

26.04.2024 - 22:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lydie, les diagrammes A.3 et A.4 se situent à la fin du dos/au début + à la fin de chaque manche et du devant + au début du dos, cf description du 1er tour de l'empiècement. Les jetés du raglan vont être ensuite faits avant/ après A.3 et A.4 car ces jetés sont les augmentations des raglans et les torsades A.3a/A.4a les raglans. Bon tricot!

29.04.2024 - 08:45

country flag Lydie wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas ce que veut pour le montage du col : au-dessus des 4-4 (4-4-8-8) mailles suivantes, A.1 (= 5 mailles). Faut il monter 4 mailles endroit/envers ou 5 mailles? Merci !

21.04.2024 - 13:55

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Lydie, vous montez entre 52 et 68 mailles selon la taille et tricotez ensuite en côtes ou en suivant les diagrammes par ex ainsi: 2 m end, 2 m env au-dessus des 4 mailles suivantes = tricotez 1 fois 2 m end, 2 m env (= 4 m). Si vous devez les tricoter au-dessus des 8 mailles suivantes, répétez 2 fois (2 m end, 2 m env). Tricotez ensuite les 5 mailles de A.1 comme indiqué dans le diagramme. Bon tricot!

22.04.2024 - 08:44

country flag Ginny Hollingsw wrote:

Help me please? This makes no sense to me? What does this mean? Redone and pulled out 4 times . Nothing looks right … Continue with A.3 and A.4 and stocking stitch over the remaining stitches and increase every other round 10-11 (12-12-13-14) times in total (including the first increase explained above)= 144-156 (168-176-184-200 ) stitches.

29.02.2024 - 01:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hollingsw , when the first row as described is done, you have increased in each A.3 and A.4 as well as 8 sts for the raglan; you now continue work as established: stocking stitch with A.3/A.4 for each raglan increasing on every other round. After the bottom 3 rows in diagrams are done, work and repeat the 7 rows marked with A.3a/A.4a and continue increasing for raglan as before. Happy knitting!

29.02.2024 - 08:30

country flag Carole wrote:

Bonjour, je dois faire quoi avec l’ouverture du col à l’arrière? Il n’y a aucune boutonnière de tricoté fermer l’ouverture.

28.02.2024 - 22:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Carole, il n'y a pas d'ouverture au milieu dos pour ce pull, on tricote en rond à partir du col. Bon tricot!

29.02.2024 - 08:20

country flag Liz wrote:

Erreur dans ma question précédente, je fais le modèle 2 ans.

25.02.2024 - 12:42

country flag Liz wrote:

Bonjour, je fais le modèle 3/4 ans. J'ai fini les aug. (grâce aux jetés avant et après les A3 et A4) et j'ai bien 168 m. Par contre, je n'ai pas 12 cm depuis le marqueur (cad après les côtes du col). Comment continuer le tricot pour faire des jours (trous) avec des jetés sans augmenter le nombre de mailles ? Même question pour le corps, si on ne fait plus de jetés de chaque côté des torsades, il n\'y a plus de jours (trous) de part et d\'autre des torsades ? Merci !

25.02.2024 - 12:14

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Liz, il est possible que votre tension en hauteur soit différente à celle du modèle, dans ce cas, continuez simplement à tricoter, sans augmenter, jusqu'à la hauteur indiquée. Pour conserver les trous sans augmenter, faites 1 diminution après/avant le jeté avant/après chaque torsade. Bon tricot!

26.02.2024 - 10:26

country flag Helstein wrote:

Hallo,ich verstehe nicht wie kommt man auf 200Maschen a Ende zunahmen Passe wenn ich am Halsblende 96 habe und Zunahmen sind 14x8 =112Maschen Also 96+112 macht 208 Maschen und nicht 200 Margarete

03.01.2024 - 15:35

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Helstein, in die letzte Größe sind es 96 Maschen nach der 1. Raglanzunahmen. Dann wird es noch 13 Mal 8 Maschen für den Raglan zugenommen = 104 Maschen + die 96 Maschen sind 200 Maschen. Beachten Sie daß die 1. Zunahmen schon erklärt sind, so wird man insgesamt 14 Mal zunehmen, dh 13 Mal extra nach der 1. beschriebenen Runde. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

03.01.2024 - 15:48

country flag Schneider Catherine wrote:

Les explications pour le col sont fausses quand on compare le nombre de mailles de debut et les explications du col on n a pas le meme nombre de mailles. si on fait les dim de A3 a on n arrive pas non plus au nombre de mailles que vous indiquez. voiila a corriger. bonne annee

02.01.2024 - 14:29

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Schneider, pouvez-vous nous indiquer dans quelle taille vous avez relevé une erreur? Nous vous expliquerons avec plaisir comment procéder si vous ne tombez pas juste. Merci pour votre compréhension.

03.01.2024 - 08:50

country flag Marie wrote:

Bonjour, je commence le pull en taille 5/6 ans. Pouvez vous me confirmer qu'il n'y a pas d'erreur de frappe ou de diagramme, car A1 et A2 sont identiques ! Bien cordialement

26.12.2023 - 13:35