Popular categories
Looking for a yarn?
Order DROPS Buttons
Charred (angular) No. 538
OrderClicking the ORDER button will redirect you to HOBIYARN website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Into The Woods
Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st, double moss st and lace pattern with hood in ”Snow”. Size: S - XXXL.
Change language:
English (UK/cm), Bulgaria- English (UK/cm), Bulgaria
- Česky
- Dansk
- Deutsch
- Eesti keel
- English (UK/cm)
- English (US/in)
- Español
- Français
- Íslenska
- Italiano
- Magyar
- Nederlands
- Norsk
- Polski
- Português
- Suomi
- Svenska
- English (UK/cm), Croatia
- English (UK/cm), Greece
- English (UK/cm), Latvia
- English (UK/cm), Lithuania
- English (UK/cm), Romania
- English (UK/cm), Slovenia
- Česky, Slovakia
DROPS design: Pattern no ee-531
Yarn group E or C + C
----------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS SNOW from Garnstudio
950-1050-1150-1300-1400-1550 g colour no 23, tan
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 8 mm - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 7 mm – for edge in garter st.
DROPS BUFFELHORN BUTTON (angular) NO 538: 6 pieces in all sizes
-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
You might also like...
Order DROPS Buttons
Charred (angular) No. 538
OrderClicking the ORDER button will redirect you to HOBIYARN website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Pattern instructions
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.
PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 and A.2 (choose diagram for correct size). The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.
DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS! Dec inside 1 st K and 1 edge st in garter st.
Dec as follows when 2 sts remain before 1 K st and 1 edge st in garter st: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after 1 sts in garter st and 1 sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc inside 1 edge st in garter st and 1 K by making 1 YO. On next row P YO twisted to avoid holes.
MEASURING TIP 1 (applies for body and back piece):
To get the correct proportions on the jacket make all length measurements when work lies flat. Because of the weight of the yarn and the garter sts on the yoke the work will stretch approx. 10 cm in total length to what is shown on the schematic drawing.
MEASURING TIP 2 (applies for sleeves):
Because of the weight of the yarn make all length measurements while holding the piece up.
BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for 6 buttonholes on right front piece (from RS): Work 4 sts, cast off 2 sts for button hole, work 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts, cast of the next 2 sts for buttonhole = 2 buttonholes on same row (4 sts remain on band). On next row cast on 2 new sts over the cast off sts.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 36, 45, 54 cm
SIZE M: 38, 47, 56 cm
SIZE L: 40, 49, 58 cm
SIZE XL: 42, 51, 60 cm
SIZE XXL: 44, 53, 62 cm
SIZE XXXL: 46, 55, 64 cm
NOTE: Approx. 1 cm remains after last buttonhole before working in garter st over all sts. (on band).
----------------------------------------------------------
BACK PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth on circular needle because of no of sts.
Cast on 61-65-71-75-81-87 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 7 mm with Snow. Work in GARTER ST - see explanation above, for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm (1st row = RS). Switch to circular needle size 8 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, 20-22-23-25-26-29 sts in stocking st, work pattern according to diagram A.2 2 times in total (choose diagram for correct size = 2 repetitions of 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts), work in stocking st until 1 st remains on row and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue like this with stocking st, pattern and 1 edge st in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm, dec 1 st in each side - READ DECREASE TIP (= 2 sts dec) and MEASURING TIP 1. Repeat dec in each side every 7-7-8-10-10-10 cm a total of 7-7-7-6-6-6 times = 47-51-57-63-69-75 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm. Now cast off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-0-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 1-2-2-3-3-3 times = 39-41-43-43-45-47 sts. When piece measures 78-81-84-87-90-93 cm, cast off the middle 9-9-11-11-11-13 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to cast off 1 st on next row from neck = 14-15-15-15-16-16 sts remain on the shoulder. Loosely cast off all sts when piece measures 80-83-86-89-92-95 cm. Repeat on the other shoulder.
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 40-42-44-48-52-54 sts (incl 1 edge st in the side and 18-18-18-20-20-20 band sts towards mid front) on circular needle size 7 mm with Snow. Work first row as follows from RS: Work A.1 over the first 18-18-18-20-20-20 sts (= band), then work in garter st over the remaining 22-24-26-28-32-34 sts. Continue with A.1 over band and garter st over the remaining sts for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm and work next row from RS as follows: A.1 over the first 18-18-18-20-20-20 sts as before, 2 sts in stocking st, work A.2 (choose diagram for correct size = 1 repetition of 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts), work in stocking st until 1 st remains on row and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue like this with stocking st, pattern and 1 edge st in garter st towards the side. When piece measures 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm, dec in the side as on back piece. Repeat dec 7-7-7-6-6-6 times in total = 33-35-37-42-46-48 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm, dec for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. When piece measures 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm - REMEMBER MEASURING TIP 1, work in garter st over all sts (also over the 18-18-18-20-20-20 band sts) until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm, cast off for armhole at beg of every row from the side as on back piece = 29-30-30-32-34-34 sts on needle. When piece measures 74-77-80-82-85-88 cm, slip the outermost 11-11-11-12-13-13 sts towards mid front on 1 stitch holder for neck (work them before slipping them on stitch holder to avoid cutting the yarn). Continue to cast off for neck at beg of every row from neck as follows: Cast off 2 sts 1 time and then 1 st 2-2-2-3-3-3 times in total = 14-15-15-15-16-16 sts remain on shoulder. Loosely cast off all sts when piece measures 80-83-86-89-92-95 cm.
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right front piece but reversed. NOTE: Beg A.2 as follows from RS: Work 1 edge st in garter st, work in stocking st until 29-29-31-33-35-35 sts remain on row, work pattern according to diagram A.2 (choose diagram for correct size = 1 repetition of 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts), work 1 st in stocking st and continue A.1 over the remaining 18-18-18-20-20-20 sts (= band). Do not dec for buttonholes on left front piece.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.
HOOD:
Pick up approx. 46 to 58 sts around the neck (incl sts on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 8 mm with Snow. K 1 row from WS while inc evenly to 66-68-70-72-74-76 sts - do not inc over bands. Then work in garter st back and forth over all sts until hood measures approx. 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm. Cast off. Fold the hood double and sew tog at the top with grafting/kitchener sts.
SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 26-28-30-30-34-34 (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 7 mm with Snow. Work 2 ridges. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm and work in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 8-8-8-8-10-12 cm, inc 1 st in each side - READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc) and MEASURING TIP 2. Repeat inc every 7½-6-6-5-4½-3½ cm 6-7-7-8-8-9 times in total = 38-42-44-46-50-52 sts. When piece measures 48-48-47-45-44-43 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-2-2-2-2-2 time and 1 st 2-2-3-3-3-3 times. Then cast off 2 sts at beg of every row in each side until piece measures approx. 55-56-56-56-56-56 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Cast off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 56-57-57-57-57-57 cm. Knit another sleeve.
ASSEMBLY:
Sew in the sleeves inside 1 edge st. Sew underarm and side seams in one inside 1 edge st. Sew the buttons on to left front piece.
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
Correction: BACK PIECE:...Switch to circular needle size 8 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, 19-21-22-24-25-28 sts in stocking st, work pattern according to diagram A.2 2 times in total...
Diagram
|
= K from RS, P from WS |
|
= P from RS, K from WS |
|
= 1 YO between 2 sts |
|
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso |
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
|
|||||||||||||
Into The Woods |
|||||||||||||
|
|
|
||||||||||||
Knitted DROPS jacket in garter st, double moss st and lace pattern with hood in ”Snow”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS 164-1 |
|||||||||||||
|
GARTER ST (back and forth): K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K. PATTERN: See diagram A.1 and A.2 (choose diagram for correct size). The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. DECREASE TIP: All dec are done from RS! Dec inside 1 st K and 1 edge st in garter st. Dec as follows when 2 sts remain before 1 K st and 1 edge st in garter st: K 2 tog. Dec as follows after 1 sts in garter st and 1 sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. INCREASE TIP: All inc are done from RS. Inc inside 1 edge st in garter st and 1 K by making 1 YO. On next row P YO twisted to avoid holes. MEASURING TIP 1 (applies for body and back piece): To get the correct proportions on the jacket make all length measurements when work lies flat. Because of the weight of the yarn and the garter sts on the yoke the work will stretch approx. 10 cm in total length to what is shown on the schematic drawing. MEASURING TIP 2 (applies for sleeves): Because of the weight of the yarn make all length measurements while holding the piece up. BUTTONHOLES: Dec for 6 buttonholes on right front piece (from RS): Work 4 sts, cast off 2 sts for button hole, work 6-6-6-8-8-8 sts, cast of the next 2 sts for buttonhole = 2 buttonholes on same row (4 sts remain on band). On next row cast on 2 new sts over the cast off sts. Dec for buttonholes when piece measures: SIZE S: 36, 45, 54 cm SIZE M: 38, 47, 56 cm SIZE L: 40, 49, 58 cm SIZE XL: 42, 51, 60 cm SIZE XXL: 44, 53, 62 cm SIZE XXXL: 46, 55, 64 cm NOTE: Approx. 1 cm remains after last buttonhole before working in garter st over all sts. (on band). ---------------------------------------------------------- BACK PIECE: The piece is worked back and forth on circular needle because of no of sts. Cast on 61-65-71-75-81-87 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 7 mm with Snow. Work in GARTER ST - see explanation above, for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm (1st row = RS). Switch to circular needle size 8 mm and work next row from RS as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, 20-22-23-25-26-29 sts in stocking st, work pattern according to diagram A.2 2 times in total (choose diagram for correct size = 2 repetitions of 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts), work in stocking st until 1 st remains on row and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue like this with stocking st, pattern and 1 edge st in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm, dec 1 st in each side - READ DECREASE TIP (= 2 sts dec) and MEASURING TIP 1. Repeat dec in each side every 7-7-8-10-10-10 cm a total of 7-7-7-6-6-6 times = 47-51-57-63-69-75 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm. Now cast off for armholes at beg of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-0-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 1-2-2-3-3-3 times = 39-41-43-43-45-47 sts. When piece measures 78-81-84-87-90-93 cm, cast off the middle 9-9-11-11-11-13 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to cast off 1 st on next row from neck = 14-15-15-15-16-16 sts remain on the shoulder. Loosely cast off all sts when piece measures 80-83-86-89-92-95 cm. Repeat on the other shoulder. RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 40-42-44-48-52-54 sts (incl 1 edge st in the side and 18-18-18-20-20-20 band sts towards mid front) on circular needle size 7 mm with Snow. Work first row as follows from RS: Work A.1 over the first 18-18-18-20-20-20 sts (= band), then work in garter st over the remaining 22-24-26-28-32-34 sts. Continue with A.1 over band and garter st over the remaining sts for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm and work next row from RS as follows: A.1 over the first 18-18-18-20-20-20 sts as before, 2 sts in stocking st, work A.2 (choose diagram for correct size = 1 repetition of 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts), work in stocking st until 1 st remains on row and finish with 1 edge st in garter st. Continue like this with stocking st, pattern and 1 edge st in garter st towards the side. When piece measures 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm, dec in the side as on back piece. Repeat dec 7-7-7-6-6-6 times in total = 33-35-37-42-46-48 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 36-38-40-42-44-46 cm, dec for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. When piece measures 55-57-59-61-63-65 cm - REMEMBER MEASURING TIP 1, work in garter st over all sts (also over the 18-18-18-20-20-20 band sts) until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm, cast off for armhole at beg of every row from the side as on back piece = 29-30-30-32-34-34 sts on needle. When piece measures 74-77-80-82-85-88 cm, slip the outermost 11-11-11-12-13-13 sts towards mid front on 1 stitch holder for neck (work them before slipping them on stitch holder to avoid cutting the yarn). Continue to cast off for neck at beg of every row from neck as follows: Cast off 2 sts 1 time and then 1 st 2-2-2-3-3-3 times in total = 14-15-15-15-16-16 sts remain on shoulder. Loosely cast off all sts when piece measures 80-83-86-89-92-95 cm. LEFT FRONT PIECE: Cast on and work as right front piece but reversed. NOTE: Beg A.2 as follows from RS: Work 1 edge st in garter st, work in stocking st until 29-29-31-33-35-35 sts remain on row, work pattern according to diagram A.2 (choose diagram for correct size = 1 repetition of 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts), work 1 st in stocking st and continue A.1 over the remaining 18-18-18-20-20-20 sts (= band). Do not dec for buttonholes on left front piece. ASSEMBLY: Sew the shoulder seams. HOOD: Pick up approx. 46 to 58 sts around the neck (incl sts on stitch holders at the front) on circular needle size 8 mm with Snow. K 1 row from WS while inc evenly to 66-68-70-72-74-76 sts - do not inc over bands. Then work in garter st back and forth over all sts until hood measures approx. 32-33-34-35-36-37 cm. Cast off. Fold the hood double and sew tog at the top with grafting/kitchener sts. SLEEVE: Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 26-28-30-30-34-34 (incl 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 7 mm with Snow. Work 2 ridges. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm and work in stocking st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 8-8-8-8-10-12 cm, inc 1 st in each side - READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc) and MEASURING TIP 2. Repeat inc every 7½-6-6-5-4½-3½ cm 6-7-7-8-8-9 times in total = 38-42-44-46-50-52 sts. When piece measures 48-48-47-45-44-43 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: Cast off 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-2-2-2-2-2 time and 1 st 2-2-3-3-3-3 times. Then cast off 2 sts at beg of every row in each side until piece measures approx. 55-56-56-56-56-56 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Cast off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 56-57-57-57-57-57 cm. Knit another sleeve. ASSEMBLY: Sew in the sleeves inside 1 edge st. Sew underarm and side seams in one inside 1 edge st. Sew the buttons on to left front piece. |
|||||||||||||
Diagram explanations |
|||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||
|
|
|||||||||||||
|
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
|||||||||||||
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 309 catalogues and 11629 patterns translated into English (UK/cm). 11629
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (110)
Jeg har forelsket mig i Big Merino. Jeg kan normalt ikke gå med uld, da det kradser som bare pokker. Kan jeg godt strikke denne jakke i Big Merino? Garnet er jo ret elastisk. Risikerer jeg at jakken kommer til at hænge og blive lang? Hvad skal jeg bruge af garn i forhold til original-opskrift. Tak 😊
05.01.2018 - 18:49DROPS Design answered:
Hei Pernille. Som du skriver er Big Merino elastisk og om man strikker for løst kan den strekke seg og bli lang. På denne modellen er det også strikket riller, da vil plagget også strekke seg noe. Med bruk av Big Merino er det viktig å ikke strikke for løst, bedre for stramt. Ved vask, husk å følge vaskeanvisningen og form plagget når det er vått. Du kan også bruke 2 tråder Air (også ull, men veldig lufting og mange syns ikke den klør). Sjekk ut andre kvaliteter vi har i garngruppe E (1 tråd til denne modellen) eller garngruppe C (2 tråder til denne modellen). God Fornøyelse!
10.01.2018 - 10:17Hallo, kurze Frage: kann ich die Jacke auch mit doppelten Faden Air stricken ? Spricht etwas dagegen?
05.10.2017 - 09:50DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Bettina, 2 Fäden Garngruppe C (Air) = 1 Faden Garngruppe E (Eskimo), so können sie auch 2 Fäden Air stricken, hier finden Sie noch weitere Auskünfte über Garnalternativen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
05.10.2017 - 13:15Hej jeg ønsker at strikke denne lækre jakke i bigdeligt i stedet for ekskimo. i opskriften står der C+C som alternativ, betyder det at jeg skal strikke dobbelt så mange masker eller at jeg skal sno tåden
25.09.2017 - 08:28DROPS Design answered:
Hei Mette. DROPS Eskimo tilhører garngruppe E og Big Delight tilbører garngruppe C. Har du 2 tråder fra garngruppe C vil det får en samme tykkelse som 1 tråd i garngruppe E, altså: 1 tråd C + 1 tråd C (2 tråder C) = 1 tråd fra garngruppen E. Om du skal strikke jakken i 164-1 i Big Delight følger du oppskriften, men strikker med 2 tråder Big Delight istedenfor 1 tråd Eskimo, men HUSK å overholde strikkefastheten som er oppgitt i oppskriften. Og du må regne ut hvor mye garn du trenger, siden du skal strikke med dobbeltgarn. God Fornøyelse!
27.09.2017 - 08:46Hallo. Ich habe eine Frage zu den Ärmeln. Für Größe S muss ich laut Anleitung 6 x alle 7,5 cm zunehmen. Damit lande ich laut meiner Berechnung bei insgesamt 53 cm Länge. Ab 48 cm Länge soll jedoch schon abgekettet werden. Ist es also richtig, dass sich das abketten sowie die Zunahmen überschneiden? Für eine Antwort und damit ein wenig Sicherheit bei dem was ich hier tue wäre ich sehr dankbar. Und bisher bin ich super zurecht gekommen. Danke für die tolle Anleitung!
03.02.2017 - 13:49DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Ulrike, bei den Ärmeln werden Sie bei 8 cm, 15,5 cm, 23 cm, 30,5 cm, 38 cm und 45,5 cm (= 6 x jede 7,5 cm) zunehmen. Dann bis 48 cm stricken und dann wird wie beschrieben abgekettet. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
03.02.2017 - 14:56Bonjour, Je ne sais pas trop si j'apprécierai cette veste avec la laine Eskimo, aussi j'aimerai la faire avec la laine Andes, pensez-vous qu'elle aura la bonne tenue et rendra bien ?
11.01.2017 - 19:37DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Emma, vous pouvez utiliser Andes qui est du même groupe qu'Eskimo. Cliquez ici pour en savoir plus sur les alternatives. Bon tricot!
12.01.2017 - 08:17Bonjour, je ne comprend pas comment tricoter la capuche , qui peut m'aider ? Merci d'avance Pascale
07.10.2016 - 14:25DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Pascale, sur l'endroit, reprenez les 11-13 m (cf taille) en attente du devant droit, relever les mailles le long de l'encolure du devant droit, puis de l'encolure dos et de l'encolure devant gauche et reprenez les 11-13 m en attente du devant gauche, vous devez avoir approx. 46 à 58 m. Tricotez ensuite 1 rang end sur l'envers, en même temps, augmentez à intervalles réguliers pour avoir le bon nombre de mailles pour votre taille (n'augmentez pas dans les bordures de chaque côté). Bon tricot!
07.10.2016 - 15:57Bonjour, Pour tricoter le diagramme A2 taille M du modèle de veste drops 164-1 , sur le rang envers, doit on tricoter ou non les jetés du rang endroit. J'ai commencé mon tricot en tricotant ceux ci, mais je n'ai pas le "rendu" des trous des chaque côté comme sur le modèle vu en gros plan. Merci de vos explications.
07.06.2016 - 16:22DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Vuillaume, dans chaque diagramme, 1 case = 1 m x 1 rang, dans A.2, on tricote les jetés à l'env sur l'envers (= jersey). Bon tricot!
07.06.2016 - 17:03J aimerais essayer ce beau manteau je fait du 42 44 en taille quel taille doit je prendre et combien de pelote merci pour ce beau modele et puis je avoir le catalogue merci d avanve
10.05.2016 - 22:49DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Checca, vous trouverez en bas de la page un schéma avec toutes les mesures de la veste prises à plat, d'un côté à l'autre, comparez ces mesures avec un vêtement similaire dont vous aimez la forme pour trouver la taille idéale - voir également ici. Bon tricot!
11.05.2016 - 08:52Hallo, wírd bei den Vorderteilen kein "Bund" in Form von 5 cm Krausrippen gestrickt? Aus der Anleitung geht das leider nicht hervor.
08.04.2016 - 13:29DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Marion, die Beschreibung dazu finden Sie hier (Anfang rechtes Vorderteil): Muster A.1 über die ersten 18-18-18-20-20-20 M (= Blende), dann die restlichen 22-24-26-28-32-34 M kraus re str. In dieser Weise 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm weiterstr, d.h. A.1 über die Blende und die restlichen M kraus re." Das ergibt den Krausrippenbund (ausser über der Blende).
08.04.2016 - 18:47Hallo, wenn ich beim Rücken nach dem Abketten der 9 M. die Schulter mit dem Muster weiter stricke, nehme ich doch durch den Umschlag immer 1 M. pro Reihe zu. Soll man vielleicht die Arbeit rechts beenden? Auf dem Foto sieht es nicht so aus. Und noch eine Frage: Könnte man die 9 M. auch stilllegen statt sie abzuketten?
01.04.2016 - 15:30DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Sophie, nach dem Abketten der mittleren Maschen stricken Sie glatt rechts weiter. Der Mustersatz beträgt ja nur 1 M mehr als die abgeketteten Maschen. Sie können die Maschen auch stillegen statt abzuketten.
04.04.2016 - 09:10