DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.15$. Read more.

Cooler Days Ahead

Knitted vest with V-neck in DROPS Flora and DROPS Kid-Silk. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 216-35
DROPS Design: Pattern no fl-058
Yarn group A + A or C
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-96-104-114-126-138 cm = 34 5/8"-37 3/4"-41"-45"-49 1/2"-54 1/4"
Full length: 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
150-150-150-150-200-200 g color 08, brown
and use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
75-75-75-100-100-100 g color 35, chocolate

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch and pattern.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 24” and 80 cm = 32” for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE – for cables.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Flora
DROPS Flora
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 30.15$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows from the right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 170 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 28) = 6.1.
In this example decrease by knitting each 5th and 6th stitch together.

DECREASE TIP-2 (for V-neck):
All decreases are worked from the right side!
DECREASE AS FOLLOWS AFTER A.2: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).
DECREASE AS FOLLOWS BEFORE A.2: Start 2 stitches before A.2 and knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased).

INCREASE TIP (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches) make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased).
On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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VEST – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle bottom up, as far as the beginning of the V-neck. Then the piece is worked back and forth as far as the armholes, after which the front and back pieces are finished separately. Ribbed edges are worked around the neck and armholes.

BODY:
Cast on 170-184-204-224-248-272 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and 1 strand Flora and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 1, purl 1) for 4 cm = 1 1/2".
Change back to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and knit 1 round where you decrease 28-30-34-38-42-46 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 142-154-170-186-206-226 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round and 1 marker thread after 71-77-85-93-103-113 stitches (= sides of body). Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when increasing in the sides.
Work 25-28-32-36-41-46 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.1 (= 21 stitches mid front) and stockinette stitch to the end of the round. Continue this pattern. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 9-9-10-10-11-11 cm = 3 1/2"-3 1/2"-4"-4"-4 3/8"-4 3/8", increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Repeat this increase when the piece measures 18-18-20-20-22-22 cm = 7"-7"-8"-8"-8 3/4"-8 3/4" = 150-162-178-194-214-234 stitches.
When the piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm = 9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11"-11 3/8"-11 3/4", start to decrease for V-neck and armholes. Adjust so that next round is 1st or 3rd round in A.1 and work next round as follows: Begin 3 stitches before the marker thread on the beginning of the round, bind off 6 stitches for armhole, work 34-37-41-45-50-55 stitches as before, place next stitch on a strand of yarn or a stitch holder (= mid front and middle of A.1), work 34-37-41-45-50-55 stitches as before, bind off 6 stitches for armhole (i.e. bind off 3 stitches on each side of the marker thread), and knit the remaining 69-75-83-91-101-111 stitches in stockinette stitch.

BACK PIECE:
= 69-75-83-91-101-111 stitches. Begin from the wrong side, and work stockinette stitch back and forth as before. AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole on the beginning of each row in each side as follows: Bind off 3 stitches 0-0-0-0-1-1 time, 2 stitches 1-2-3-4-4-5 times and 1 stitch 4-3-3-3-4-5 times on each side = 57-61-65-69-71-75 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 45-47-49-51-53-55 cm = 17 3/4"-18 1/2"-19 1/4"-20"-21"-21 5/8". On the next row bind off the middle 19-19-21-21-23-23 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Continue with stockinette stitch and bind off 2 stitches on the next row from the neck = 17-19-20-22-22-24 stitches on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4". Bind off a little loosely. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

LEFT FRONT PIECE (when garment is worn):
Begin from the wrong side from mid front, work A.2 over the first 8 stitches (A.2 is read from left to right when working from wrong side), and work stockinette stitch over the remaining stitches. Continue the pattern as this – A.2 should now fit nicely above A.1. AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole and v-neck as described below.

ARMHOLE:
Bind off for armhole on the beginning of the row from the armhole as follows: Bind off 3 stitches 0-0-0-0-1-1 times, 2 stitches 1-2-3-4-4-5 times and 1 stitch 4-3-3-3-4-5 times.

V-NECK:
AT THE SAME TIME on first row from right side, decrease 1 stitch for v-neck before A.2 on the mid front (seen from right side) – read DECREASETIP-2. Decrease as this every 2nd row (i.e. every row from the right side) a total of 5 times in all sizes, and then on every 4th row (i.e. every other row from right side) a total of 6-6-7-7-8-8 times.
After all decreases for v-neck and bind off for armhole is done, there is 17-19-20-22-22-24 stitches on shoulder. Work until the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm = 19"-19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4". Bind off a little loosely.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Begin from the wrong side in the armhole side, work in stockinette stitch as before until 8 stitches remains towards mid front, work A.2 over the last 8 stitches. Continue the pattern as this. AT THE SAME TIME decrease for v-neck and bind off for armhole in the same way as left front piece but the in the opposite side. I.e. decrease for v-neck as described above, after A.2 mid front (seen from right side) and bind off for armhole on the beginning of each row from the armhole as described above.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams inside the bind-off edge.

SLEEVE EDGE:
Starting from the right side at the bottom of the armhole, knit up approx. 92 to 114 stitches inside the 1 edge stitch around the armhole, using short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and 1 strand of each quality (the number of stitches should be divisible by 2).
Work rib in the round (= knit 1, purl 1) for 3 cm = 1 1/8". Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP! Work the other sleeve edge in the same way.

NECK:
Start from the right side, at one of the shoulder seams, and knit up approx. 114 to 140 stitches around the neck (including the 1 stitch on the thread mid front), using short circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and 1 strand of each quality (the number of stitches should be divisible by 2).
Work rib in the round (= knit 1, purl 1), making sure 1 knitted stitch is mid front over the stitch on the thread.
AT THE SAME TIME every 2nd round decrease 2 stitches mid front as follows: Work until there is 1 stitch left before the knitted stitch mid front, slip 2 stitches as if to knit together, knit 1 and pass the 2 slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased). This will allow the V-neck to lie neatly and the knitted stitch will create a line mid front.
Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl when the edge measures 3 cm = 1 1/8" – remember BINDING-OFF TIP!

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round/row, knit or purl the yarn over as shown in the diagram (leaves a hole)
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
symbols = place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Cecilia wrote:

Bonjour, le modèle est tricoté avec deux qualités de fils, mais comment assortir les couleurs . Avez-vous des suggestions

10.11.2023 - 09:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Cecilia, vous trouverez d'autres exemples de cette association sous le nuancier de DROPS Flora, votre magasin saura également vous conseiller les couleurs assorties dans les nuances que vous recherchez, n'hésitez pas à le contacter, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

10.11.2023 - 11:26

country flag Kaja Bordenave wrote:

Hi. I am on the beginning of the V-neck and armholes. I have cast off 6 stitches at the marker, then knitted to A1, placed a stitch on a marker, and then I counted 27 stitches to the marker. It says to knit 34 stitches and then cast off, but I counted 24 stitches, and it turns out I've knitted 24 stitches before A1 as well. Is this a typo on the recipe?

24.08.2023 - 14:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Bordenave, when casting off for armhole, you should cast off 3 sts before the marker at the beg of the round + 3 sts after this marker, then work 34 sts, slip the middle stitch on a thread, work 34 sts, cast off the next 6 sts (3 sts on each side of the marker) and work the last 69 sts = 6+34+1+34+6+69=150 sts. Hope it can help. Happy knitting!

25.08.2023 - 08:07

country flag Michèle Tremblay wrote:

Bonjour, Je suis rendue au devant gauche. Ils disent de tricoter le motif A2 au dessus des 8 mailles du milieu si je tricote comme cela je n’arrive pas à couvrir le A1 car il reste d’eux maille sur le motif A1. Merci de me répondre

12.03.2023 - 22:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Tremblay, quand on divise le devant, on divise au milieu de A.1 = on a pour le devant gauche les 10 premières mailles de A.1 ( puis 1 m en attente (= la m centrale de A.1) et les 10 dernières mailles de A.1 pour le devant droit), mais on ne va plus tricoter la torsade (= les 2 premières mailles de A.1), on va donc tricoter A.2 sur les 8 premières mailles sur l'envers/dernières mailles sur l'endroit (devant gauche). Bon tricot!

13.03.2023 - 10:35

country flag Michèle Tremblay wrote:

Bonjour, J’ai un problème avec la grille A1. Pour le premier rang pas de problème je suis très bien. Au deuxième rang je me trouve toujours à tricoter en endroit. Alors que faire pour le jeté. Pourriez vous m’expliquer comment le faire ce deuxième rang en tricotant en rond

03.03.2023 - 12:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Tremblay, avez-vous vu la réponse précédente? Le 2ème et le 4ème rang de A.1 ont été décrits et devraient pouvoir vous aider. Bon tricot!

03.03.2023 - 13:15

country flag Michèle Tremblay wrote:

Bonjour, J’aimerais savoir en tricotant en rond je me trouve toujours à tricoter toujours en endroit. Sauf quand je tricote la grille 21 les jetés sont en endroits je ne peux pas les tricoter dans dans le rang suivant car je suis toujours en endroit. Que faire? Merci de me repondre

02.03.2023 - 21:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Tremblay, aux rangs impairs de A.1 tricotez ainsi: 2 m end, 3 m env, 2 m end (rang 2: le jeté du rang précédent + la diminution/ rang 4: la diminution + le jeté), 7 m env, 2 m end (rang 2: le jeté du rang précédent + la diminution/ rang 4: la diminution + le jeté), 3 m env, 2 m end. Quand vous tricoterez ensuite A.2 sur l'envers les 2 m du milieu (la diminution+ le jeté ou bien le jeté + la diminution) se tricoteront à l'envers sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

03.03.2023 - 09:10

country flag Michèle Tremblay wrote:

Bonjour. Ce gilet se tricote sur des aiguilles circulaires. Alors je suis toujours sur l’endroit comment faire l’allee Retour pour le diagramme parce que je suis toujours à l’endroit. Merci de m’en repondre

29.12.2022 - 18:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Tremblay, on tricote le pull en rond sur circulaire jusqu'aux emmanchures, puis on tricote chaque partie séparément en allers et retours, ainsi, en rond, on tricote toujours sur l'endroit en lisant le diagramme de droite à gauche, puis on lira les rangs sur l'envers de gauche à droite après la division de l'ouvrage. Bon tricot!

02.01.2023 - 12:54

country flag Candra wrote:

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29.12.2022 - 00:11

country flag Lara wrote:

Thanks for every other informative blog. The placde else may just I get that kind oof info written in such an ideal way? I have a cchallenge that I am just now running on, and I've been on the look out for such info. Hoow tto pump the press webssite how to pump the press

28.12.2022 - 11:57

country flag Hansson wrote:

När jag ska börja på framstycket, kan jag då inte börja från rätsida högra sidan istället? Förstår inte hur jag ska börja på avigsidan och om jag ska läsa mönstret från Vänster till Höger som det står i beskrivningen så blir det väl den högra delen jag i så fall börjar på o gör klart? Puh 😅

28.03.2022 - 19:50

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Hansson. For at det skal bli symmetrisk rikitg må du strikke 1. pinne fra vrangen. Når du leser diagrammet fra venstre mot høyre når det strikkes fra vrangen, vil du også merke at når du skal strikke masker sammen er det lettere å gjøre dette fra retten (2. pinne i diagrammet). mvh DROPS Design

04.04.2022 - 11:44

country flag Hansson wrote:

Varför kan jag inte skriva ut mönstret så att själva diagrammet för mönsterstickningen kommer med?

19.03.2022 - 11:11

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Hansson. Klikk på skriv ut ikonet (ikke brukt ctrl+P) eller sjekk skriver innstillingenen på din PC. mvh DROPS Design

21.03.2022 - 13:37