DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Catch the Wind

Knitted top with raglan and short sleeves in DROPS Safran. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern. Sizes XS - XXL.

DROPS 211-5
DROPS Design: Pattern no e-306
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 18, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
24 stitches in width and 32 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Safran
DROPS Safran
100% Cotton
from 0.90 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan on each side of the back piece and each side of the front piece (towards the sleeves). Increase by making 1 yarn over before/after the stitch with the marker thread; on the next round knit the yarn overs to leave holes. The increases on the sleeves are drawn into patterns A.1 and A.3.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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TOP – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued in the round. A small edge is worked around the armholes.

NECK:
Cast on 106-110-116-120-124-132 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and Safran. Work 2 RIDGES – read description above. Then work the yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Insert 4 marker threads in the piece as described below (without working the stitches). The threads will be used when increasing to raglan.
Count 16-17-18-19-20-22 stitches (= half back piece), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, count 19 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, count 32-34-37-39-41-45 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch, count 19 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread in the next stitch. There are 16-17-19-20-21-23 stitches after the last marker thread (half back piece).
The first round is worked as follows: Work stocking stitch as far as the first marker-stitch, make 1 yarn over (first increase to RAGLAN – see description above), work the marker-stitch in stocking stitch, A.1 (= 2 stitches), A.2 (= 14 stitches) and A.3 ( = 3 stitches) (= 19 stitches on the sleeve), work the marker-stitch in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over, work stocking stitch as far as the next marker-stitch (= front piece), 1 yarn over, work the marker-stitch in stocking stitch, A.1 (= 2 stitches), A.2 (= 14 stitches) and A.3 (= 3 stitches) (= 19 stitches on the sleeve), work the marker-stitch in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over, work stocking stitch over the remaining stitches (= half back piece).
Continue this pattern with stocking stitch on the front and back pieces and A.1, A.2 and A.3 on the sleeves. Each time A.1, A.2 and A.3 are worked 1 time in height, you work 2 more repeats of A.2 between A.1 and A.3. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

AT THE SAME TIME continue to increase to raglan every 2nd round a total of 22-26-28-31-35-39 times at each marker thread (including the first increase described above). The new stitches are worked in stocking stitch on the front and back pieces and in lace pattern as shown in the diagrams on the sleeves. When the increases to raglan are finished there are 294-334-356-388-424-468 stitches on the needle. The next round is worked as follows: Work 39-44-47-51-56-62 stitches (= half the back piece), place the next 69-79-83-91-99-109 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 9-9-9-11-13-15 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 78-88-95-103-113-125 stitches (= front piece), place the next 69-79-83-91-99-109 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 9-9-9-11-13-15 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the last 39-44-48-52-57-63 stitches (= half back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 174-194-208-228-252-280 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 9-9-9-11-13-15 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Cut the strand and begin the round 6 stitches before 1 of the stitches with marker thread. Work A.4 (= 13 stitches), work 74-84-91-101-113-127 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.4 and then stocking stitch over the last 74-84-91-101-113-127 stitches. Continue this pattern, AT THE SAME TIME, when the piece measures 2 cm, increase by making 1 yarn over on each side of A.4, on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes (= 4 increased stitches). Repeat the increase every 1 ½ cm a total of 18 times; the increased stitches are worked in stocking stitch = 246-266-280-300-324-352 stitches. When the piece measures 28-29-29-30-29-29 cm from the division work 2 ridges over all stitches, then cast off.

SLEEVE-EDGE:
Place the 69-79-83-91-99-109 stitches on one of the threads on short circular needle size 3 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 9-9-9-11-13-15 new stitches under the sleeve = 78-88-92-102-112-124 stitches. Work 2 ridges over all stitches, then cast off.

Work the other sleeve-edge in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 12.05.2020
Correction: 2 yarn overs on the 9th round in diagram A.4 as been removed.
Updated online: 04.06.2020
Correction: 2 yarn overs on the 13th round in diagram A.4 as been added.
Updated online: 04.11.2021
YOKE:... work the marker-stitch in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over, work stocking stitch over the remaining stitches (= half back piece).

Diagram

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round knit the yarn over to leave a hole
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (155)

country flag Clara Stone wrote:

I don’t understand the instruction “Each time A1, A2 and A3 are worked 1 time in height, you work 2 more repeats of A2 between A1 and A3.” Is this in the same round, on another round or what? Please help me understand. Thank you, Clara

24.03.2024 - 01:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Clara, it means that by the time you finish a pattern repeat (in height) you will have increases so many stitches, that when you start to knit the next repeat, you knit A.1, then A.2 as many times plus 2 times, as in the previous repeat and then A.3. Happy Knitting!

24.03.2024 - 09:40

country flag Rikke wrote:

Hej Jeg har et spørgsmål til størrelserne. Jeg vil normalt strikke s/m men med brystmål 92 vil denne model skilles strikkes i L og så bliver den alt for løs forneden hvor min str. Istedet passer med en str. Xx (51 cm. *2) Giver garnet sig meget så brystmål alligevel kan presses ned i en s/m

22.03.2024 - 17:51

country flag Anja wrote:

Liebes Drops-Team, ich stehe völlig auf dem Schlauch, Reihe 7 A1. Da habe ich ja nun plötzlich zwei linke Maschen, wo vorher nur 1 war. Und ich verstehe absolut nicht, wie ich das stricken soll. Ich hoffe ihr könnt mir da auf die Sprünge helfen. Danke

16.03.2024 - 13:04

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Anja, meinen Sie bei der 12. Reihe? da alle Reihen im Diagram gezeichnet sind, oder bin ich falsch? Bei der 11. Reihe sind es 3 Umschläge in A.1, dann strickt man 1 neues Blatt, mit je 1 linke Maschen beidseitig am Anfang vom 2. Blatt (1 M re, 1 M li, 1 M re, 1 M li, 5 M re). Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

18.03.2024 - 08:22

country flag Mrs Thompson wrote:

Could you please explain on E-306 pattern where it says each time A1,A2 & A3 are worked 1 time in height you work 2 more repeats of A2 between A1 & A3 . I cannot see how you can repeat A2 twice within A1 to A3 between markers. Also when I get to and complete row 24 how do I proceed to continue with pattern do I go back to row 1 or do I work back from row 24 to 1. I started again at row 1 but pattern didn't work out.

14.02.2024 - 21:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Thompson, after diagrams have been worked one time in height, ie after the 24 rows have been worked, start the diagrams again from row 1 as follows, work A.1 over the first 2 sts from previous A.1 , then work A.2 over the last 14 sts previous A.1; then work A.2 as before until the 17 sts previous A.3, now work A.2 over the first 14 sts and end with the 3 sts A.3; you have now worked A.2 two more times between a new repeat of A.1 and A.3. Happy knitting!

20.02.2024 - 08:52

country flag Framboizul wrote:

Encore une question pour l'empiècement: quand on a fait une fois A1.2.3 en hauteur, on recommence à la base (donc A1: 2 mailles, A2: 14 mailles etc) mais on fait une fois A1, trois fois A2, une fois A3?

07.02.2024 - 22:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Framboizul, tout à fait, quand les diagrammes sont terminés, vous avez augmenté suffisamment de mailles pour tricoter 2 motifs de plus de A.2 entre A.1 et A.3, vous allez donc tricotez 3 fois A.2 en largeur, la fois suivante, vous aurez 5 fois A.2 en largeur. Bon tricot!

08.02.2024 - 08:35

country flag Framboizul wrote:

Bonjour, c'est la première fois que je tricote avec un diagramme et je suis un peu perdue... Je suis dans l'empiècement, quand j'arrive au 3ème rang des diagrammes, pour chaque manche, je tricote A1 A2A3 et il me reste deux mailles avant ma maille marquée. Est-ce normal? Dois-je tricoter ces mailles en jersey?

07.02.2024 - 08:55

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Framboizul, mettez des marqueurs pour délimiter chacun des diagrammes, ainsi vous pourrez mieux repérer le début de chaque diagramme à chaque tour; au 3ème tour par ex vous devez avoir 3 mailles dans A.1 que vous allez tricoter ainsi: 1 m end, 1 m env, 1 jeté, 1 m end, tricotez A.2 comme au 3ème rang du diagramme et terminez par le 3ème rang de A.3: 2 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m env, 1 m end. Bon tricot!

08.02.2024 - 08:08

country flag Yarnia wrote:

Hello! I started knitting this pattern and I have this question: the lace diagrams include ALL rows? I thought we need to insert a just knit row in between the rows shown in the diagram, now I doubt myself. Thank you!

02.08.2023 - 09:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Yarnia, the diagram shows all rows (seen from the right side). Happy knitting!

02.08.2023 - 09:44

country flag Patrycja wrote:

Czy w 11 rzędzie schematu A.1 po przerobieniu 1 oczka należy wykonać 2 narzuty obok siebie (jeden za drugim) bez przerobienia między nimi 1 oczka? Proszę o pomoc. Dziękuję

28.07.2023 - 20:01

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Patrycjo, tam jest 1 narzut, 1 oczko lewe i 1 narzut, czyli jest przerobione 1 oczko między tymi 2 narzutami. Miłej pracy!

29.07.2023 - 09:31

country flag Judie Stambler wrote:

On the Catch the Wind pattern it says to work in stockinette but On the pattern drawings there are many purl stitches which are not shown in photo....so this is my question. Why does the pattern say work in stockinette when it's in the round and there are no purl stitches. Hope my question makes sense....I am confused.

25.07.2023 - 21:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Judie, Stockinette is worked on the front and back pieces but, under the sleeves, you work patterns A.1 -4 to give the lace pattern you see in the picture. It is here you have the purled stitches. Happy knitting!

26.07.2023 - 06:45

country flag Małgorzata wrote:

Hi, I have a problem at the beginning of the body. The pattern says to do A.4 scheme on the casted 9 stitches. I used the cast on method from your video that its like twisted. And it looks horribly loose when I work the A.4 scheme right on the next round. Shouldn’t there be one row with only stockinette stitches to work the 9 casted on stitches and then the A.4 scheme? I don’t know how to do it so that the cast on stitches don’t look so stretched. All my other stitches are tight as usual.

07.07.2023 - 18:52

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Małgosiu, jest tak dlatego że dalej pod rękawem porabiasz ażur. Pamiętaj, że na końcu wykonujesz również brzeg ściegiem francuskim wokół podkroju rękawa. To powinno wszystko ładnie wyrównać. Oczywiście jeśli chcesz wykonać 1-2 rzędy dżersejem przed samym ażurem jest to również możliwe. Milej pracy!

08.07.2023 - 08:23