DROPS / 211 / 12

Sweet Impressions by DROPS Design

Knitted top with raglan in DROPS Belle. Piece is knitted top down with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern vs-061
Yarn group B

S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

DROPS BELLE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250-250-250-300-300-350 g colour 16, mauve

21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 mm : Length 40 cm and 80 cm for garter stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm : Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

53% Cotton, 33% Viscose, 14% Linen
from 1.80 £ /50g
DROPS Belle uni colour DROPS Belle uni colour 1.80 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.



GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge vertically = 2 rounds, i.e. knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sides of body):
Work until 2 stitches remain before marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. On next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. 

To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a larger needle. If this also is too tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch, cast off these as regular stitches.




Neck edge and yoke are worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Body is worked in the round on circular needle, top down.

Cast on 102-102-102-120-120-120 stitches on circular needle size 3 mm with Belle. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm.

Begin round in transition between left shoulder and back piece. Work pattern as follows: * Knit 1, A.1a (= 4 stitches), A.1b over the next 18-18-18-27-27-27 stitches (2-2-2-3-3-3 repetitions of 9 stitches), A.1c (= 6 stitches), knit 2, A.2 (= 19 stitches), knit 1 *, work from *-* 2 times. Work and increase as shown in diagram, when A.1 and A.2 have been worked one time vertically, continue pattern and increases the same way. Increase 8 stitches every other round, work stitches in pattern. Increase every other round 22-25-28-32-35-38 times in total. After all increases are done there are 278-302-326-376-400-424 stitches on needle. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work next round as follows (start this round 2-3-3-1-3-5 stitches before end of previous round): Work the first 78-86-92-105-115-125 stitches as before (without increases), work in garter stitch over the next 61-65-71-83-85-87 stitches, work the next 78-86-92-105-115-125 stitches as before (without increases), work in garter stitch over the last 61-65-71-83-85-87 stitches. Continue like this until 2 ridges have been worked (= 4 rounds). Work next round as follows: Knit the first 78-86-92-105-115-125 stitches (= back piece), cast off the next 61-65-71-83-85-87 stitches, knit the next 78-86-92-105-115-125 stitches (= front piece), cast off the last 61-65-71-83-85-87 stitches. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

Work the first 78-86-92-105-115-125 stitches in stocking stitches, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches, work 78-86-92-105-115-125 stitches in stocking stitch, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches, and work in the round = 168-184-200-226-250-274 stitches. Work in stocking stitch, but over the new 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches in each side work 2 ridges, before continuing with stocking stitch over all stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side, in the middle of the new stitches that were cast on. When piece measures 4 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker threads in each side - read INCREASE TIP. Repeat increase every 3 cm 5 times in total = 188-204-220-246-270-294 stitches. When piece measures 19-19-19-18-18-17 cm from division, work 2 ridges over all stitches, then cast off - READ CAST-OFF TIP.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 06.01.2021
... After all increases are done there are 278-302-326-376-400-424 stitches on needle. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work next round as follows (start this round 2-3-3-1-3-5 stitches before end of previous round): ...


= knit
= purl
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round knit yarn over to make a hole
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round work yarn over twisted to avoid holes
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 211-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (24)

Susan Senerth 03.11.2020 - 15:36:

Hello- When working the pattern according to the diagram - there are 17 increase rows . (8 stitches each increase row) Which would give you 136 additional stitches added to 102 starting stitches =238 total not the 278 that I need. In the pattern It states that there are 22 increase rows ( not 17) where are the additional increase rows outside the diagram? Please let me know when you get a chance. I appreciate the help- Sue

DROPS Design 03.11.2020 kl. 16:04:

Dear Sue, after you have worked the diagrams one time in height, increases are not done, in size S you are supposed to increase a total of 22 times this means you have to work 5 more increase round (= 10 rounds in total). Continue pattern as before increasing the same way as before. 102 sts + (8 sts inc x 22 times) = 278 sts. Happy knitting!

Kaya 01.11.2020 - 23:50:

Hadde planer om å strikke denne, men er tydelig noe feil i oppskrifta så den her dropper jeg. Synd, for toppen er utrolig fin!

Jutta 29.06.2020 - 19:29:

Ich verstehe auch nicht, wie die passe gestrickt wird. Da steht : „ Die nächste Runde wie folgt stricken: Die ersten 78-86-92-105-115-125 Maschen wie zuvor stricken (ohne Zunahmen), kraus rechts über die nächsten 61-65-71-83-85-87 Maschen stricken, die nächsten 78-86-92-105-115-125 Maschen wie zuvor stricken (ohne Zunahmen), .... „. Wie Muss ich da Stricken? Was bedeutet“ohne Zunahmen“sind die raglanzunahnen im Diagramm enthalten?

DROPS Design 30.06.2020 kl. 11:06:

Liebe Jutta, die Zunahmen sind jetzt fertig, stricken Sie die Maschen vom Vorder- und Rückenteil im Muster wie zuvor (mit den Umschlägen vom Lochmuster) und die Maschen von den Ärmeln stricken Sie krausrechts. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Jutta 29.06.2020 - 10:57:

Hallo, wo kommen denn in der passe die Markierungsfäden hin? Wo muss ich die Raglanzunahmen machen? Habe grade ein top mit anderer Anleitung von Ihnen fertig. Da war alles gut erklärt. Hier verstehe ich die passe leider nicht. In der kurzerklärung steht was von Einteilung mit markierungsfäden. Aber nicht mehr in der Anleitung.

DROPS Design 29.06.2020 kl. 14:07:

Liebe Jutta, bei der Passe legen wird in der Anleitung keine Markierungsfäden ein, die Raglanline sind die 2 rechte Maschen die zwischen A.1a-b-c und A.2 gestrickt sind. Wenn Sie Markierungsfäden gerne einsetzen möchten, dann können Sie einen zwischen den jeweiligen 2 Maschen recht für den Raglan- die Raglanzunahmen entstehen auf beiden Seiten den 2 rechten Maschen - siehe Diagramme. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Pia 26.06.2020 - 13:00:

Jo, jeg kan få det til at passe, hvis jeg starter på omgangen 3 masker før, eller strikker 83 masker mønster, 65 masker ret, 86 masker mønster, 65 masker ret , 3 masker mønster. Men det kan man ikke læse i opskriften. Jeg synes I skal rette opskriften, for vi er jo flere som har samme problem.

DROPS Design 30.06.2020 kl. 13:37:

Hej Pia, det lyder godt, så skal vi få det skrevet ind i opskriften så hurtigt som muligt. Tak!

Helga 25.06.2020 - 18:00:

I don't speak Danish. Did you say to Pia to take 3 stitches on each side of the sleeve sections and add them to the front/back sections? That is actually what I ended up doing but I would like you to confirm that. It is really annoying when you have knitted the entire yoke section and then find out that things don't work the way they are supposed to. I would appreciate very much a response because I'm obviously not the only one with that issue.

DROPS Design 26.06.2020 kl. 15:52:

Dear Helga, this might change depending on your size, but you will have to start the dividing round some stitches before end of round to get some stitches from sleeves affected to body + the knit 1 from end of round. Happy knitting!

Pia 22.06.2020 - 21:44:

Jeg er også sikker på der er en fejl i opskriften. Jeg har samme problem som Susan og Helga, men med str. M. Når jeg skal dele til ryg/forstykke og ærmer, har jeg 80 masker til ryg og forstykke og 71 masker til hvert ærme. Det passer også med at der er 9 masker mere i A1 end i A2 fra start af mønster. Hvad er det rigtige ? Hvad skal jeg gøre ?

DROPS Design 25.06.2020 kl. 09:32:

Hej Pia, stemmer det ikke hvis du strikker de midterste 86 masker (tager 3 masker fra ærmerne i hver side), lukker 65 masker af, strikker 86 masker, og lukker 65 masker af = 302 masker. God fornøjelse!

Helga 20.06.2020 - 19:28:

There is definitely an error in the pattern and not just in the large size. I figured out that in the large size, you have to increase the number of stitches in A.1a and A.1c by 3 stitches to 7 and 9 respectively and decrease the number of stitches in A.2 by 3 on each side starting out with 13 stitches in the first row. That will result after 28 increases in 71 stitches for the sleeve/shoulder section and 92 stitches for the back and front.

Susan 20.06.2020 - 08:43:

I have the same issue as Helga, with the number of stitches in the large size being incorrect for sleeves/body. I assume this is an error in the pattern

DROPS Design 15.12.2020 kl. 09:17:

Thank you. We should explain it more clearly. Happy knitting!

Helga 18.06.2020 - 05:35:

I'm working on a large size and increased 8 stitches every other round 28 times ending up with 326 stitches. However, the back and front have only 86 instead of 92 stitches whereas the shoulder/sleeve sections have 77 rather than 71 stitches. I had to cheat and put 6 stitches (3 on each side) from the sleeve section onto the front and back sections. Is there a mistake in the pattern or did I make a mistake? It worked out okay and still looks lovely.

DROPS Design 15.12.2020 kl. 09:16:

Hi Helga, you did ok, we should explain it more clearly. Happy knitting!

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