DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Lunar Tides

Knitted jumper with round yoke in DROPS Baby Merino. The piece is worked top down with short sleeves lace pattern, garter stitch and short rows. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:
DROPS 211-11
DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-075
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-400-400-450-500-550 colour 01, white

KNITTING TENSION:
23 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm for garter stitch edges.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Baby Merino
DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.50£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge in height = 2 rounds; Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 106 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 14) = 7.57. 
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after alternately each 7th and 8th stitch (approx.). On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches) make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at each marker thread; 4 stitches increased on round).
On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch

CASTING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off and the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked top down. The neck is worked in the round with circular needle. Then short rows are worked back and forth in sections with lace pattern and garter stitch. A total of 6 sections, 3 with garter stitch and 3 with lace pattern, are worked. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves, which are then finished separately. The body is continued in the round with circular needle. The edges of the sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 106-110-115-122-127-134 stitches with circular needle size 3 mm and Baby Merino. Work 2 RIDGES in the round – read description above. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm, work 1 ridge in the round and increase 14-15-15-8-13-16 stitches evenly on the round – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 120-125-130-130-140-150 stitches. 

YOKE:
The yoke is continued in sections, back and forth with short rows in garter stitch and lace pattern as follows:

SECTION 1 (with lace pattern):
ROUND 1: Knit.
ROUND 2: Knit and insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round; this marker will be used when working short rows.
ROUND 3: * Knit 2 together, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* until there are 0-1-0-0-0-0 stitches left and finish with knit 0-1-0-0-0-0.
ROUND 4: Knit.
Now work section 1 with short rows back and forth in lace pattern as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): * Knit 2 together, 1 yarn over * , work from *-* until there are 6-7-6-6-6-6 stitches left before the marker, knit 1-2-1-1-1-1 (= 115-120-125-125-135-145 stitches worked), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 5 stitches left before the marker (= 110-115-120-120-130-140 stitches worked), turn the piece, tighten the strand.
ROW 3: Knit 1, * knit 2 together, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* until there are 12-11-12-12-12-12 stitches left before the marker, knit 2-1-2-2-2-2 (= 105-110-115-115-125-135 stitches worked), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 4: Purl until there are 10 stitches left before the marker (= 100-105-110-110-120-130 stitches worked), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 5: * Knit 2 together, 1 yarn over * , work from *-* until there are 16-17-16-16-16-16 stitches left before the marker, knit 1-2-1-1-1-1 (= 95-100-105-105-115-125 stitches worked), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 6: Purl until there are 15 stitches left before the marker (= 90-95-100-100-110-120 stitches worked), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 7: Knit 1, * knit 2 together, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* until there are 22-21-22-22-22-22 stitches left before the marker, knit 2-1-2-2-2-2 (= 85-90-95-95-105-115 stitches worked), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 8: Purl until there are 20 stitches left before the marker (= 80-85-90-90-100-110 stitches worked), turn, tighten the strand.
Continue like this, i.e. work 5 fewer stitches each time you turn. The lace-rows should continue above each other in height, so begin every other lace-row with knit 1 and finish with knit 2-1-2-2-2-2 and begin the next row with lace pattern and finish with knit 1-2-1-1-1-1.
Continue like this until you have worked 1 row over the last 10-15-10-10-10-10 stitches from the wrong side (= 12-12-13-13-14-15 rows of holes at the widest).
Purl the end of the last row from the wrong side; i.e. purl the remaining 55-55-60-60-65-70 stitches to the marker, turn the piece.
ROUND 1. *Knit 5, 1 yarn over * work from *-* the whole round (= 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 144-150-156-156-168-180 stitches.
ROUND 2: Purl (the yarn overs are purled twisted to avoid holes). 
REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!

SECTION 2 (with garter stitch):
Cut the strand.
Slip 72-75-78-78-84-90 stitches from the left needle onto the right needle as if to purl. Insert a marker here (= start of round).
Section 2 is continued from the marker.
ROUND 1: * Knit 6-6-3-3-3-3, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* to end of round (= 24-25-52-52-56-60 stitches increased) = 168-175-208-208-224-240 stitches.
ROUND 2: Purl (the yarn overs are purled twisted to avoid holes). 
Work 1 ridge.
Now work section 2 with short rows back and forth in GARTER STITCH – read description above, as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until there are 7-7-8-8-8-8 stitches left before the marker (= 161-168-200-200-216-232 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 7-7-8-8-8-8 stitches left before the marker (= 154-161-192-192-208-224 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 3: Knit until there are 14-14-16-16-16-16 stitches left before the marker (= 147-154-184-184-200-216 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 4: Knit until there are 14-14-16-16-16-16 stitches left before the marker (= 140-147-176-176-192-208 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 5: Knit until there are 21-21-24-24-24-24 stitches left before the marker (= 133-140-168-168-184-200 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 6: Knit until there are 21-21-24-24-24-24 stitches left before the marker (= 126-133-160-160-176-192 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
Continue like this, i.e. work 7-7-8-8-8-8 fewer stitches each time you turn until you have worked 1 row over the last 14-21-16-16-16-16 stitches from the wrong side.
Knit to end of last row from the wrong side, i.e. knit the remaining 77-77-96-96-104-112 stitches to the marker, turn.
Continue in the round as follows:
Start at the marker (= beginning of the round).
ROUND 1: * Knit 7-7-8-8-8-8, 1 yarn over (i.e. make 1 yarn over above where the short row turned) * work from *-* to end of round (= 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 192-200-234-234-252-270 stitches.
ROUND 2: Purl (yarn overs purled twisted to avoid holes). 

SECTION 3 (with lace pattern):
Cut the strand.
Slip 96-100-117-117-126-135 stitches from the left needle onto the right needle as if to purl. Insert a marker here (= start of round). Section 3 is continued from the marker.
Continue in the round as follows:
ROUND 1: * Knit 8-8-9-9-9-9, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* to end of round (= 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 216-225-260-260-280-300 stitches.
ROUND 2: Knit (yarn overs knitted twisted to avoid holes).
ROUND 3: * Knit 2 together, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* until there are 0-1-0-0-0-0 stitches left, finish with knit 0-1-0-0-0-0.
ROUND 4: Knit.
Now work section 3 with short rows back and forth in lace pattern as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit 0-0-1-1-1-1, * knit 2 together, 1 yarn over * , work from *-* until there are 10-11-11-11-11-11 stitches left before the marker, knit 1-2-1-1-1-1 (= 207-216-250-250-270-290 stitches worked), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 9-9-10-10-10-10 stitches left before the marker (= 198-207-240-240-260-280 stitches worked), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 3: Knit 1, * knit 2 together, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* until there are 20-19-21-21-21-21 stitches left before the marker, knit 2-1-1-1-1-1 (= 189-198-230-230-250-270 stitches worked), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 4: Purl until there are 18-18-20-20-20-20 stitches left before the marker (= 180-189-220-220-240-260 stitches worked), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 5: Knit 0-0-1-1-1-1, * knit 2 together, 1 yarn over * , work from *-* until there are 28-29-31-31-31-31 stitches left before the marker, knit 1-2-1-1-1-1 (= 171-180-210-210-230-250 stitches worked), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 6: Purl until there are 27-27-30-30-30-30 stitches left before the marker (= 162-171-200-200-220-240 stitches worked), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 7: Knit 1, * knit 2 together, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* until there are 38-37-41-41-41-41 stitches left before the marker, knit 2-1-1-1-1-1 (= 153-162-190-190-210-230 stitches worked), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 8: Purl until there are 36-36-40-40-40-40 stitches left before the marker (= 144-153-180-180-200-220 stitches worked), turn, tighten the strand.
Continue like this, i.e. work 9-9-10-10-10-10 fewer stitches each time you turn.
The lace-rows should continue above each other in height, so begin every other lace-row with knit 0-0-1-1-1-1 and finish with knit 1-2-1-1-1-1 and the next lace row begins with knit 1 and finishes with knit 2-1-1-1-1-1.
Continue like this until you have worked 1 row over the last 18-27-20-20-20-20 stitches from the wrong side (= 12-12-13-13-14-15 rows of holes at the widest).
Purl to end of row, i.e. purl the remaining 99-99-120-120-130-140 stitches to the marker, turn.
Continue in the round as follows:
ROUND 1: * Knit 9-9-10-10-10-10, 1 yarn over (i.e. make 1 yarn over above where the short row turned) * work from *-* to end of round (= 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 240-250-286-286-308-330 stitches.
ROUND 2: Purl (yarn overs purled twisted to avoid holes). 

SECTION 4 (with garter stitch):
Cut the strand.
Slip 120-125-143-143-154-165 stitches from the left needle onto the right needle as if to purl. Insert a marker here (= start of round). Section 4 is continued from the marker.
ROUND 1: * Knit 10-10-11-11-11-11, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* to end of round (= 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 264-275-312-312-336-360 stitches.
ROUND 2: Purl (yarn overs purled twisted to avoid holes). Work 1 ridge.
Now work section 4 with short rows back and forth in garter stitch as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until there are 11-11-12-12-12-12 stitches left before the marker (= 253-264-300-300-324-348 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 11-11-12-12-12-12 stitches left before the marker (= 242-253-288-288-312-336 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 3: Knit until there are 22-22-24-24-24-24 stitches left before the marker (= 231-242-276-276-300-324 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 4: Knit until there are 22-22-24-24-24-24 stitches left before the marker (= 220-231-264-264-288-312 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 5: Knit until there are 33-33-36-36-36-36 stitches left before the marker (= 209-220-252-252-276-300 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 6: Knit until there are 33-33-36-36-36-36 stitches left before the marker (= 198-209-240-240-264-288 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
Continue like this, i.e. work 11-11-12-12-12-12 fewer stitches each time you turn until you have worked 1 row over the last 22-33-24-24-24-24 stitches from the wrong side.
Knit to end of last row from the wrong side, i.e. knit the remaining 121-121-144-144-156-168 stitches to the marker, turn.
Continue in the round as follows:
Start at the marker (= beginning of the round).
ROUND 1: * Knit 11-11-12-12-12-12, 1 yarn over (i.e. make 1 yarn over above where the short row turned) * work from *-* to end of row (= 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 288-300-338-338-364-390 stitches.
ROUND 2: Purl (yarn overs purled twisted to avoid holes). 

SECTION 5.BIT (with lace pattern):
Cut the strand.
Slip 144-150-169-169-182-195 stitches from the left needle onto the right needle as if to purl. Insert a marker here (= start of round). Section 5 is continued from the marker.
Continue in the round as follows:
ROUND 1: * Knit 288-12-13-13-13-13, 0-1-1-1-1-1 yarn over *, work from *-* to end of round (= 0-25-26-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 288-325-364-364-392-420 stitches.
ROUND 2: Knit (yarn overs knitted twisted to avoid holes). 
ROUND 3: * Knit 2 together, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* until there are 0-1-0-0-0-0 stitches left, finish with knit 0-1-0-0-0-0.
ROUND 4: Knit.
Now work section 5 with short rows back and forth in lace pattern as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit 1-0-1-1-1-1, * knit 2 together, 1 yarn over * , work from *-* until there are 13-15-15-15-15-15 stitches left before the marker, knit 1-2-1-1-1-1 (= 276-312-350-350-378-406 stitches worked), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until there are 12-13-14-14-14-14 stitches left before the marker (= 264-299-336-336-364-392 stitches worked), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 3: Knit 1, * knit 2 together, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* until there are 25-27-29-29-29-29 stitches left before the marker, knit 1 (= 252-286-322-322-350-378 stitches worked), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 4: Purl until there are 24-26-28-28-28-28 stitches left before the marker (= 240-273-308-308-336-364 stitches worked), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 5: Knit 1-0-1-1-1-1, * knit 2 together, 1 yarn over * , work from *-* until there are 37-41-43-43-43 stitches left before the marker, knit 1-2-1-1-1-1 (= 228-260-294-294-322-350 stitches worked), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 6: Purl until there are 36-39-42-42-42-42 stitches left before the marker (= 216-247-280-280-308-336 stitches worked), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 7: Knit 1, * knit 2 together, 1 yarn over *, work from *-* until there are 49-53-57-57-57-57 stitches left before the marker, knit 1 (= 204-234-266-266-294-322 stitches worked), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 8: Purl until there are 48-52-56-56-56-56 stitches left before the marker (= 192-221-252-252-280-308 stitches worked), turn, tighten the strand.
Continue like this, i.e. work 12-13-14-14-14-14 fewer stitches each time you turn.
The lace-rows should continue above each other in height, so begin every other lace-row with knit 1-0-1-1-1-1 and finish with knit 1-2-1-1-1-1 and the next lace-row begins with knit 1 and finishes with knit 1.
Continue like this until you have worked 1 row over the last 24-39-28-28-28-28 stitches from the wrong side (= 12-12-13-13-14-15 rows of holes at the widest).
Purl to end of last row, i.e. purl the remaining 132-143-168-168-182-196 stitches to the marker, turn.
Continue in the round as follows:
ROUND 1: * Knit 12-13-14-14-14-14, 1 yarn over (i.e. make 1 yarn over above where the short row turned) * work from *-* to end of round (= 24-25-26-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 312-350-390-390-420-450 stitches.
ROUND 2: Purl (yarn overs purled twisted to avoid holes). 

SECTION 6 (with garter stitch):
Cut the strand.
Slip 156-175-195-195-210-225 stitches from the left needle onto the right needle as if to purl. Insert a marker here (= start of round). Section 6 is continued from the marker.
ROUND 1: * Knit 312-350-390-15-15-15, 0-0-0-1-1-1 yarn over *, work from *-* to end of round (= 0-0-0-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 312-350-390-416-448-480 stitches.
ROUND 2: Purl (yarn overs purled twisted to avoid holes). 
Work 1 ridge.
Now work section 6 with short rows back and forth in garter stitch as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until there are 13-14-15-16-16-16 stitches left before the marker (= 299-336-375-400-432-464 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Knit until there are 13-14-15-16-16-16 stitches left before the marker (= 286-322-360-384-416-448 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 3: Knit until there are 26-28-30-32-32-32 stitches left before the marker (= 273-308-345-368-400-432 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 4: Knit until there are 26-28-30-32-32-32 stitches left before the marker (= 260-294-330-352-384-416 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 5: Knit until there are 39-42-45-48-48-48 stitches left before the marker (= 247-280-315-336-368-400 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 6: Knit until there are 39-42-45-48-48-48 stitches left before the marker (= 234-266-300-320-352-384 stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
Continue like this, i.e. work 13-14-15-16-16-16 fewer stitches each time you turn until you have worked 1 row over the last 26-42-30-32-32-32 stitches from the wrong side.
Knit to end of last row, i.e. knit the remaining 143-154-180-192-208-224 stitches to the marker, turn.
Continue in the round as follows:
Start at the marker (= beginning of the round).
ROUND 1: Knit.
ROUND 2: Purl.
The piece measures approx. 23-23-25-25-27-28 cm at the shortest point (measured from the cast-on edge). Work garter stitch until the piece measures 23-24-25-27-29-31 cm from the cast-on edge.
Cut the strand. Displace the round 33-37-41-43-44-46 stitches backwards (i.e. slip the last 33-37-41-43-44-46 stitches from the right needle (= half the sleeve) as if to purl onto the left needle, insert 1 marker here = start of round). 
Divide the piece as follows:
Place the first 66-74-82-86-88-92 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve, knit the next 90-101-113-122-136-148 stitches (= front piece), place the next 66-74-82-86-88-92 stitches on a thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve, knit the last 90-101-113-122-136-148 stitches (= back piece)

BODY:
= 196-218-246-264-296-320 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches under each sleeve and displace the start of the round to one of the marker threads. Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when increasing.
Adjust so you have worked at least 3 ridges after the garter stitch on the yoke. You can continue with ridges on the body if necessary.
Continue in the round with stocking stitch. When the body measures 3 cm from the division increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 4-4-8-6-8-6 cm a total of 6-6-3-4-3-4 times = 220-242-258-280-308-336 stitches. Continue with stocking stitch until the body measures 30-30-31-31-31-31 cm from the division. Change to circular needle size 3 mm and work garter stitch for 3 cm. Cast off with knit – read CASTING-OFF TIP!

SLEEVE EDGE:
Place the 66-74-82-86-88-92 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece onto double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and pick up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 74-82-92-96-100-104 stitches. Work 2 RIDGES in the round. Cast off with knit. Work the other sleeve edge in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 17.08.2020
Correction: SECTION 6, ROUND 1 has been edited in the 3 larger sizes:
ROUND 1: * Knit 312-350-390-15-15-15, 0-0-0-1-1-1 yarn over *, work from *-* to end of round (= 0-0-0-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 312-350-390-416-448-480 stitches.
Updated online: 05.11.2020
Correction:
SECTION 5 (with lace pattern):
... ROUND 1: * Knit 288-12-13-13-13-13, 0-1-1-1-1-1 yarn over *, work from *-* to end of round (= 0-25-26-26-28-30 stitches increased) = 288-325-364-364-392-420 stitches.
Updated online: 14.06.2024
The pattern is updated. Correction on body after dividing.

Diagram

symbols = sections 1 to 6 – see information in the text
symbols = knitting direction
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (78)

country flag Lynn wrote:

Sec 1 - By row 7 my stitch count is down by 3. At start and end of odd # rows after completing repeat ** stitches with a YO,, am I supposed to wrap again when working the last 1 or 2 additional stitches? Eg. row 3, work from ** to last 12 stitches, knit 2. Do I YO again after these last 2 stitches before turning? I’ve unravelled several times with the same result and can’t account for the reduced stitches Thank you. Can’t wait to wear this top!

17.07.2024 - 04:02

country flag Ballat Fabiola wrote:

Wird die Arbeit immer wieder gewendet und auch links gestrickt

14.07.2024 - 09:10

DROPS Design answered:

Guten Tag, in der Anleitung steht jeweils genau, wann in Runden (d.h. ohne Wenden) und wann in Reihen (d.h. mit Wenden) gestrickt wird - in den Abschnitten, in denen in Reihen gestrickt wird, wird auch links gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

16.07.2024 - 17:49

country flag Anna wrote:

Dzień dobry\r\nNie bardzo rozumiem o co chodzi w zapisie we wzorze Lunar Tides\r\nTYŁ & PRZÓD:\r\n\"Dopasować przerabiając co najmniej 3 ściągacze francuskie za ściegiem ażurowym karczku, dalej przerabiać tył/przód ściegiem francuskim jeśli jest taka potrzeba, aż będą 3 ściągacze francuskie.\"\r\nPrzecież 6 sekcja kończy się ściegiem francuskim więc skąd te 3 ściągacze francuskie za ściegiem ażurowym? Proszę o wyjaśnienie\r\nAnna Cierniak

22.04.2024 - 12:06

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Aniu, to musi być jakaś pomyłka. Sprawdzimy to i naniesiemy korektę. Jak osiągniesz odpowiednie wymiary, dalej przerabiaj dżersejem wg opisu. Dziękujemy za zwrócenie uwagi i pozdrawiamy!

22.04.2024 - 13:04

country flag Bethina Lundberg wrote:

Jeg er vild med blusen, men er gået i stå ved hulmønstret 😐. Når jeg skal lave vendepindene, skal jeg så starte med, at tage 1.maske løs af og føre tråden med bagover, som der er vist på en video, for at undgå, at der kommer et hul ved vendingen ?. For det kan jeg jo ikke gøre, når jeg feks skal starte med, at strikke 2 ret sammen ?

24.09.2023 - 20:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Bethina, der er flere måder at strikke vendepinde på, men følg opskriften så du har det rigtige antal masker når du vender :)

05.10.2023 - 08:47

country flag Melanie wrote:

Guten Morgen, habe ich die Anleitung richtig verstanden wenn zum Beispiel bei der 2. Zacke ich alle verkürzten Reihen gestrickt habe, ich in der "Mitte" noch 16 rechte Maschen habe, die nicht verkürzt gestrickt werden. Also ich stricke die letzte verkürzte Reihe, habe 16 rechte Maschen, wende und stricke dann über alle Maschen rechts bis zum maschenmarkierer? Vielen Dank

16.07.2023 - 08:42

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Melanie, bei der 2. Zacke stricken Sie beidseitig immer weniger Maschen (verkürzten Reihen) bis Sie 16 Maschen gestrickt haben - dann stricken Sie wieder in der Runde. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

27.07.2023 - 11:03

country flag Regina wrote:

Danke, meine Frage hat sich erledigt und kann gern gelöscht werden.

23.06.2023 - 07:18

country flag Regina wrote:

In der Anleitung steht bei der 1. Zacke zur 5. Reihe: 5. REIHE: * 2 Maschen rechts zusammenstricken, 1 Umschlag * , von *-* wiederholen bis noch 16-17-16-16-16-16 Maschen. Wenn ich das richtig verstanden habe, werden für die Zacken die Reihen auf jeder Seite um 5 Maschen verkürzt. Dann passen diese Zahlen nicht, oder übersehe ich hier etwas?

19.06.2023 - 12:01

country flag Louise Tremblay wrote:

Il semble y avoir une erreur sur la version en français à la section 2 rang 2, il est mentionné de tricoter à l'envers mais en anglais c'est indiquer à l'endroit

11.06.2023 - 01:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Tremblay, sauf erreur de ma part, le rang 2 de la section 2 se tricote bien à l'endroit sur l'envers, je cite: SECTION-2 (point mousse):....RANG 2 (= sur l'envers): Tricoter à l'endroit jusqu'à.... Pensiez-vous peut-être à un autre endroit? Bon tricot!

12.06.2023 - 09:22

country flag Jana wrote:

Urobila som 1.úsek ažurovým vzorom , potom v 1.kruhovej rade som nahodila 28 ok ( veľkosť XXL), spolu 268 ok, 2.rada. obratko. 2.úsek vrubkovým vzorom - odložených 84 ok sejmeme obratce z levé na pravú jehlici ? neviem kde sa zobrali tie odložené očká, keď som predtým urobila celú kruhovú radu 268 ok, žiadne oká som neodkladala. Prosím o radu

10.06.2023 - 15:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, Jano. Díky za upozornění - v návodu byla chybná formulace (nyní opraveno). V kruhové řadě máme po dokončení 1. úseku a závěrečném přidání ok 168 ok (vel XXL). 2. úsek začínáme tím, že posuneme začátek kruhové řady - proto přesuneme, sejmeme, uvedený počet ok na pravou jehlici (oka nepleteme). Hodně zdaru! Hana

10.06.2023 - 20:00

country flag Mary wrote:

In looking at the picture of the pattern, I think I’d like to do only 2 lace sections. Is this possible. How much longer would the body of the top have to be?

08.05.2023 - 00:49

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mary, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every request, please feel free to ask your yarn store (even per mail or telephone) or any knitting forum for any individual assistance. Thanks for your comprehension.

08.05.2023 - 09:33