DROPS / 205 / 15

Blue Spruce Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with raglan in DROPS Nord and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Blue Spruce Jacket / DROPS 205-15 - Knitted jacket with raglan in DROPS Nord and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Blue Spruce Jacket / DROPS 205-15 - Knitted jacket with raglan in DROPS Nord and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no no-032
Yarn group A + A or C
-------------------------------------------------------

SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 106-114-126-134-146-158 cm = 41 3/4”-45”-49 1/2”-52 3/4”-57 3/8”-62”
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"


MATERIALS:
DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
200-250-250-300-300-350 g color 09, deep ocean
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-125-125-125-150 g color 27, jeans blue

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stockinette stitch and 1 strand of each quality = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch/lace pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 7 items in all sizes.

-------------------------------------------------------
Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------


45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 2.50 $ /50g
DROPS Nord uni colour DROPS Nord uni colour 2.50 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Nord mix DROPS Nord mix 2.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
-------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

-------------------------------------------------------

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagrams for your size.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 82 stitches) minus the bands (e.g. 8 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 9) = 8.2.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches) make 1 yarn over.
On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch on each side of each sleeve, on the inside of the marker thread and knit 1 (4 stitches increased on the row).
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row purl the yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures approx. 2 cm = 3/4”. Then work the other 6 buttonholes with approx. 7-7-7½-7½-8-8 cm = 2 3/4”-2 3/4”-2 7/8”-2 7/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8” between each one.

-------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

-------------------------------------------------------

JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 82-86-90-94-94-98 stitches (including 4 band stitches in garter stitch on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and 1 strand Nord + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Purl 1 row (wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 4 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, *knit 2 / purl 2*. work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 4 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this for 3 cm = 1 1/8”. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.
When the rib is finished, knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 9-9-5-5-5-5 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 91-95-95-99-99-103 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side (the yarn overs are purled twisted and the band stitches are worked in garter stitch to finished length). Change to circular needle size 5 mm = US 8. Insert 1 marker after the band at the beginning of the row mid front; the yoke will be measured from this marker!

YOKE:
Now work pattern as follows: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, knit 1, A.1a over the next 14 stitches, A.1b over the next 2 stitches, insert a marker thread here (= in the transition between left front piece and left sleeve), knit 1, make 1 yarn over, knit 6-8-8-10-10-12, 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= in transition between left sleeve and back piece), A.1c over the next 3 stitches, A.1a over the next 28 stitches (= 2 repeats in width), A.1b over the next 2 stitches, insert a marker thread here (= in transition between back piece and right sleeve), knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 6-8-8-10-10-12, 1 yarn over, knit 1, insert a marker thread here (= in transition between right sleeve and right front piece), A.1c over the next 3 stitches, A.1a over the next 14 stitches and finish with 4 band stitches in garter stitch. You now have 1 marker thread in each transition between body and sleeves (= 4 marker threads – allow them to follow your work onwards). In addition to the increases in the diagrams, you have increased 1 stitch on each side of the sleeves to RAGLAN – read description above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Continue this pattern back and forth and increase to raglan on the sleeves every 2nd row 18-19-22-21-20-20 more times, then every 4th row 2-2-2-3-5-6 times (= a total of 21-22-25-25-26-27 times on each side of the sleeves). AT THE SAME TIME on row 21 in A.1a, work as described by the white star after the band stitches at the beginning of the row (seen from the right side) and as described by the black star before the band stitches at the end of the row – read description in the symbol explanations. When A.1a, A.1b and A.1c have been completed in height, continue the pattern in the same way; i.e. work A.1b and A.1c towards the raglan on the sides of the front and back pieces and leaf pattern (= A.1a) as before between the raglan on the back piece (= A.1b and A.1c) and between the raglan and bands on the front pieces until you have worked 36-46-48-48-48-48 rows of pattern in height and there are 42-47-49-49-49-49 stitches on each front piece (including the 4 band stitches) and 75-85-89-89-89-89 stitches on the back piece. There are 3-4-4-4-5-5 leaves along the raglan. Now continue in the different sizes as follows.

Size M:
Continue the leaf pattern in the same way, but towards the markers in each raglan (on the front and back pieces) work pattern A.2 (i.e. no more increases to raglan). There are now 47 stitches on each front piece (including the 4 band stitches) and 85 stitches on the back piece.
When you have worked up to and including the row with the arrow in the diagrams (and all the increases on the sleeves are finished) there are 287 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 22 cm = 8 3/4”. If the piece is shorter than this continue with the leaf-pattern (without increasing to raglan) to the correct length.

Sizes S, L, XL, XXL and XXXL:
Continue the leaf pattern in the same way, but towards the markers in each raglan (on the front and back pieces) work pattern as shown in A.2b and A.2 c. When all the increases are finished there are 45-52-53-57-59 stitches on each front piece (including the 4 band stitches) and 81-95-97-105-109 stitches on the back piece. When you have worked up to and including the arrow for your size in the diagrams (and all the increases on the sleeves are finished) there are 271-319-327-347-363 stitches on the needle. The piece should measure approx. 21-25-25-28-30 cm = 8 1/4”-9 3/4”-9 3/4”-11”-11 3/4”. If the piece is shorter than this continue with the leaf-pattern (without increasing to raglan) to the correct length.

ALL SIZES:
The yoke is now divided for body and sleeves. The next row (= row after the row with the arrow) from the wrong side is worked as follows: NOTE: In sizes XXL and XXXL you work 1-3 sleeve-stitches onto the back/front pieces.
Work the first 45-47-52-53-58-62 stitches (= right front piece), place the next 50-54-60-62-62-62 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 4-8-8-12-14-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 81-85-95-97-107-115 stitches (= back piece), place the next 50-54-60-62-62-62 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 4-8-8-12-14-14 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the last 45-47-52-53-58-62 stitches (= left front piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
There are 179-195-215-227-251-267 stitches on the body. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 4-8-8-12-14-14 stitches cast on under each sleeve (= 2-4-4-6-7-7 new stitches on each side of each marker thread).
Work pattern from the right side as follows: NOTE: The pattern should match the pattern from the yoke; make sure you continue from the correct row in the diagrams.
Work 4 band stitches in garter stitch, leaf pattern as before over the next 15-29-29-29-36-36 stitches, A.3b over the next 16 stitches, 12-2-7-10-9-13 stitches in stockinette stitch (marker thread sits here), 12-2-7-10-9-13 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.3c over the next 17 stitches, leaf pattern as before over the next 28-56-56-56-70-70 stitches (= 2-4-4-4-5-5 repeats of A.1a in width), A.3b over the next 16 stitches, 12-2-7-10-9-13 stitches in stockinette stitch (marker thread sits here), 12-2-7-10-9-13 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.3c over the next 17 stitches, leaf pattern as before over the next 14-28-28-28-35-35 stitches and 4 band stitches in garter stitch. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2”, increase 2 stitches in each side – read INCREASE TIP-2. Repeat this increase when the piece measures 12 cm = 4 3/4” = 187-203-223-235 -259-275 stitches. When the piece measures approx. 17-16-14-13-15-14 cm = 6 3/4”-6 1/4”-5 1/2”-5 1/8”-6”-5 1/8” – adjust so you finish after a row like row 12 in A.1a, you have 5 cm = 2” left of pattern and 5-6-7-9-6-7 cm = 2”-2 3/8”-2 3/4”-3 1/2”-2 3/8”-2 3/4” left of stockinette stitch before the rib at the bottom of the body. Now work pattern in the different sizes as follows.

Sizes S, M, L and XL:
Work 4 band stitches in garter stitch, knit 1, work A.4a over the next 14-28-28-28
stitches (= 1-2-2-2 repeats), A.4b over the next 16 stitches, stockinette stitch over the
next 14-4-9-12 stitches, marker thread sits here, work stockinette stitch over the next
14-4-9-12 stitches, A.4c over the next 17 stitches, A.4a over the next 28-56-56-56
stitches (= 2-4-4-4 repeats), A.4b over the next 16 stitches, stockinette stitch over the
next 14-4-9-12 stitches, marker thread sits here, work stockinette stitch over the next
14-4-9-12 stitches, A.4c over the next 17 stitches, A.4a over the next 14-28-28-28
stitches (= 1-2-2-2 repeats) and 4 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern
back and forth until A.4a-A.4c have been completed in height. Continue from ALL
SIZES – read description below.

Sizes XXL and XXXL:
Work 4 band stitches in garter stitch, knit 1, A.5a over the next 7 stitches, A.4a over the next 28-28 stitches (= 2-2 repeats), A.4b over the next 16 stitches, stockinette stitch over the next 11-15 stitches, marker thread sits here, stockinette stitch over the next 11-15 stitches, A.4c over the next 17 stitches, A.4a over the next 70-70 stitches (= 5 repeats), A.4b over the next 16 stitches, stockinette stitch over the next 11-15 stitches, marker thread sits here, stockinette stitch over the next 11-15 stitches, A.4c over the next 17 stitches, A.4a over the next 28-28 stitches (= 2-2 repeats), A.5b over the next 7 stitches and 4 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until A.4a-A.4c, A.5a and A.5b have been completed in height. Continue from ALL SIZES below.


ALL SIZES:
Continue with stockinette stitch and band stitches in garter stitch until the body measures 27-27-26-27-26-26 cm = 10 5/8”-10 5/8”-10 1/4”-10 5/8”-10 1/4”-10 1/4”. Knit 1 row where you increase 27-31-35-35-39-43 stitches evenly spaced = 214-234-258-270-298-318 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work rib as follows: 4 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 * work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and 4 band stitches in garter stitch. When the rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2”, bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"- from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 50-54-60-62-62-62 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles/short circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 4-8-8-12-14-14 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 54-62-68-74-76-76 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 4-8-8-12-14-14 new stitches under the sleeve (2-4-4-6-7-7 new stitches on each side of the thread). Work stockinette stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 4 cm = 1 1/2”, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-2½-2-1½-1½-1½ cm = 1 1/4”-7/8”-3/4”-1/2”-1/2”-1/2” a total of 9-13-15-17-17-16 times = 36-36-38-40-42-44 stitches. When the sleeve measure 37-37-35-36-34-33 cm = 14 1/2”-14 1/2”-13 3/4”-14 1/4”-13 3/8”-13”, knit 1 round where you increase 4-4-6-4-6-4 stitches evenly spaced = 40-40-44-44-48-48 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and work rib (= 2 knit / purl 2) for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 26.09.2019
New pattern and new diagrams

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next row purl the yarn over to leave a hole
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over
symbols = slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together and pass the slipped stitch over
symbols = after the band (seen from the right side): After the band stitches in garter stitch at beginning of this row knit the first 2 stitches together (1 stitch decreased) before continuing as shown in the diagram
symbols = before the band (seen from the right side): Before the band stitches in garter stitch at the end of this row, do not work the last 3 stitches as shown in the diagram, but work as follows: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over (1 stitch decreased)
symbols = arrow shows which row in the diagram to stop at in the different sizes – read explanation in the text
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 205-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (34)

country flag Odile 26.04.2021 - 09:38:

Bonjour et merci pour votre reponse , donc si je comprends bien , sur tous les rangs endroits , il,faut faire des jetés? et sur les rangs envers lorsqu'on tricote les jetes , doivent ils former des trous ou faut il les tricoter torse ? Y a til une video explicative sur comment tricoter les jetes au rang suivant ?

user icon DROPS Design 26.04.2021 kl. 09:46:

Bonjour Odile, les jetés (ceux du point fantaisie + ceux des raglans) se font effectivement uniquement sur l'endroit; les jetés des points fantaisie (= diagrammes) se tricotent à l'envers pour qu'ils forment des jours, mais ceux des raglans se tricotent torse pour éviter des trous. Cette vidéo montre comment tricoter un jeté - dans le brin avant (= trou) + dans le brin arrière (= torse = dans le brin arrière= pas de trou). Bon tricot!

country flag Odile 23.04.2021 - 23:34:

Bonjour Je ne comprends pas bien les explications pour l'empiecement .Au debut , sur le deuxieme rang ( donc sur l envers) apres les 4 mailles endroit de la bordure , que faut il,faire ?faut il faire 1 maille endroit + A1a ou une maille envers ?de meme apres A1b sur les rangs envers, faut il,fqire une maille endroit , un jete et 8 mailles endroit ou bien est ce que cela ne se fait que sur le premier rang ? Merci de m'eclairer

user icon DROPS Design 26.04.2021 kl. 07:24:

Bonjour Odile, sur l'envers, lisez les diagrammes de gauche à droite et tricotez: 4 m point mousse, A.1a, A.1c, mailles envers, A.B, A.1a, A.1c... (les cases blanches sont des mailles jersey endroit, la croix une maille jersey envers). Dans cette leçon, vous verrez comment tricoter des diagrammes en rangs. Bon tricot!

country flag Synnøve Vea 17.03.2021 - 16:23:

Er i starten: bærestykke. Siden rad 1 er stolpe-A1a-A1b/arm/A1c-A1a-A1a-A1b/arm/A1c-A1a-stolpe, skal rad2 (vrangen) strikkes motsatt? altså stolpe-A1a-A1c/arm/A1b. osv

user icon DROPS Design 19.03.2021 kl. 07:54:

Hei Synnøve, Ja, når du strikker tilbake fra vrangen blir rekkefølgen reversert, som du sier. God fornøyelse!

country flag MARIE THERESE DAVID 19.02.2021 - 17:36:

Je fais le modèle DROPS 205-15 taille M. Je suis rendue au milieu de l'empiècement devant, j'ai fait les grilles A1a-A1b-A1c comme indiqué c'est très joli, j'ai termine les 24 rangs et là je ne sais plus du tout comment agencer les diagrammes pour continuer et je ne comprends pas les exlications... merci de m'éclairer! M.T.DAVID

user icon DROPS Design 22.02.2021 kl. 07:20:

Bonjour Mme David, lorsque vous avez tricoté les diagrammes 1 fois en hauteur, vous les répétez, mais cette fois-ci, vous avez suffisamment de mailles pour tricoter une fois de plus A.1a en largeur, autrement dit, répétez A.1a 1 fois de plus en largeur et tricotez lesA.1b et A.1c (augmentations raglan) comme avant. Bon tricot!

country flag Monique 22.09.2020 - 16:59:

Hallo liebes Serviceteam! Hier scheitere hier anscheinend gleich in Reihe eins. Ist der Chart A.1c um eine Zeile nach oben verrutscht oder hat es eine besondere Bewandtnis, dass die drei Charts nicht horizontal auf einer Ebene dargestellt sind? Und lesen sich die drei Charts in Reihe 1 durchgehend von rechts nach links, also wie üblich? Und in allen Rückreihen von links nach rechts? Herzlichen Dank für Ihre Mühe und liebe Grüße 🍀

user icon DROPS Design 23.09.2020 kl. 08:06:

Liebe Monique, A.1c wird bei der 1. Reihe über 3 Maschen gestrickt (= 1 M re, 1 M li, 1 Umschlag, 1 M re) - nach der 1. Reihe haben Sie 4 Maschen, die, bei den Rückreihen so stricken (links nach recht)s): 2 M li (Umschlag verschränkt), 1 M re, 1 M li. Viel Spa ß beim stricken!

country flag Samia 16.09.2020 - 14:00:

Bonjour j'ai commencé ce magnifique gilet en taille L, mais au premier rang de l'empiècement à la fin du rang j'ai 3 mailles en plus ! Vous précisez qu'il y a des modifications ou les trouver pour le modèle DROP 205-15 MERCI

user icon DROPS Design 16.09.2020 kl. 14:35:

Bonjour Samia, tricotez ainsi: 4 m point mousse, 1 m endroit, A.1a (= 14 m), A.1b (= 2 m), (= devant gauche), 1 m endroit, 1 jeté, 8 m endroit, 1 jeté, 1 m endroit (= manche gauche), A.1c (= 3 m), 2 x A.1a (= 28 m), A.1b (= 2 m), (= dos), 1 m endroit, 1 jeté, 8 m endroit, 1 jeté, 1 m endroit, (= manche droite), A.1c (= 3 m), A.1a ( = 14 m) et 4 m point mousse (devant droit). Vous avez augmenté 2 m pour chaque manche (cf jetés soulignés) + 1 m dans chaque A.1b/A.1c = 8 m au total soit 95+8= 103 m sur l'aiguille. Vous pouvez mettre un marqueur entre chaque diagramme pour bien vérifier votre nombre de mailles à chaque fois. Bon tricot!

country flag Gro E Hammerstad 10.08.2020 - 23:02:

Strikker str. XXXL. Når 48 omg i høyden og 49 m på forstykket har jeg IKKE 5 blader langs raglan men 3,5. Hva har jeg gjort feil?

user icon DROPS Design 19.08.2020 kl. 12:03:

Hej Gro, Strikker du i DROPS Nord og Kid-Silk? Holder du strikkefastheden med 17m x 22pinde på 10x10 cm. Det lyder til at du eventuelt kan strikke lidt løsere... Men hvis du er tilfreds med strukturen, gør det så noget?

country flag Cho Cho Lwin 30.05.2020 - 08:12:

Thank you very much for your quick and informative response. Happy with the customer services and quality products. Always Thumbs up for Drops products!!!

country flag Cho Cho Lwin 26.05.2020 - 16:34:

Thank you very much for your quick response. I am sorry to have clarification. I am still not very clear. I am working on size L. To start row 49 with the instruction of A.2b (shown 9 stitches in diagram)? But I only have 2 stitches left on each front piece after A.1ax3+4 band stitches. Same for A.2c. I only have only 3 stitches but in the diagram for A.2c, it is shown with 10 stitches. What to do? FYI, I worked with my drops Nord in Golden rod and it is fabulous. I love it. Thank you.

user icon DROPS Design 26.05.2020 kl. 16:47:

Dear Mrs Cho Cho Lwin, you will now work A.2c over the first sts from previous A.1c, then repeat the leaf pattern as before, ie finish the first leaf as before (= as in A.1a), then repeat A.1a as before until 9 sts remain and work A.2b. Happy knitting!

country flag Cho Cho Lwin 25.05.2020 - 17:24:

Hello , after completing 48 rows of pattern in height in YOKE, how to proceed A2b and A2c? row 49, A1a x3+2 stitches for A2b? how? , Reagan increases, A2c for 3 stitches? how? +A1ax4+2 stitches for A2b?how?+Reagan increases+ A2c for 3 stitches? how?+A1ax3? Please help me. Many thanks for all your hard work.

user icon DROPS Design 26.05.2020 kl. 08:31:

Dear Cho Cho Lwin, you will work A.2b and A.2c at the transitions to raglan (last st in A.2b and 1st st in A.2c are the 2 raglan sts = last st in A.1b/first st in A.1c) and the sts between A.2b and A.2c will be worked in A.1a as before - just adjust the lace pattern so that the leaf continue. Happy knitting!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 205-15

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.