DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.50$. Read more.

Heim Jacket

Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca. The piece is worked top down with round yoke and Nordic pattern on the yoke. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 207-2
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-868
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 88-96-104-114-126-138 cm = 34 5/8”-37 3/4”-41”-45”-49 1/2”-54 1/4”
Full length: 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g color 7233, olive
50-50-50-50-50-100 g color 6309, medium petrol
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 100, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 4305 dark indigo
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 7139, dark grey green

KNITTING GAUGE:
23 stitches in width and 30 rows in height with stockinette stitch and Nordic pattern = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3.5 MM = US 4: Length 40 cm = 16” and 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch and Nordic pattern.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm = US 2,5.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 3 MM = US 2,5: Length 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 521: 8-8-8-8-9-9 items.

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

ELEVATION (back of neck):
To make the jacket slightly higher at the back of the neck when working yoke you can work an elevation as described here. Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the round (mid back). Start from the right side with medium petrol and knit 11-12-12-13-13-14 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten strand and purl 22-24-24-26-26-28 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit 33-36-36-39-39-42 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 44-48-48-52-52-56 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit 55-60-60-65-65-70 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 66-72-72-78-78-84 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit to end of row, turn and purl 1 row back (the bands are worked in garter stitch). Then work YOKE as described in the text.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size. The whole pattern is worked in stockinette stitch.

KNITTING TIP-1:
To avoid the knitting gauge becoming tighter when working pattern it is important that the strands at the back are not tight. Use a size larger needle when working pattern if this is a problem.

KNITTING TIP-2 (for bands):
On the rows with 2-colored pattern use the background color over the 5 band stitches on each side.


INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 112 stitches) minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 34) = 3.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 3rd stitch. Do not increase on bands. On the next row work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker thread sits between these 6 stitches) make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at each marker thread; 4 stitches increased on row).
On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES (top down):
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the rib on the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm = 1/2”-3/4”. Then work the other 7-7-7-7-8-8 buttonholes with approx. 7½-7½-8-8-7½-7½ cm = 2 7/8”-2 7/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-2 7/8”-2 7/8” between each one.

BINDING OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle or make 1 yarn over after approx. each 8th stitch at the same time as binding off (yarn overs bind off as normal stitches).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front, top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

NECK:
Cast on 112-120-124-128-132-136 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5 and medium petrol. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3-3-3-4-4-4 cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2” – remember the BUTTONHOLE on the right band – read description above.
When the rib is finished knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 34-36-38-40-42-44 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 146-156-162-168-174-180 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side (bands worked in garter stitch). Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm = US 4. Insert 1 marker after band at the beginning of the row mid front; the yoke will be measured from this marker!
Now you can work an ELEVATION in the back of the neck – read description above. If you do not want an elevation, go straight to YOKE.

YOKE:
Work stockinette stitch back and forth with medium petrol and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side towards mid front.
When the piece measures 1½-1½-2-2-2-2 cm = 1/2”-1/2”-3/4”-3/4”-3/4”-3/4” from the marker on the neck increase 34-36-40-46-48-52 stitches evenly spaced = 180-192-202-214-222-232 stitches.
When the piece measures 2½-2½-3-3-3-3 cm = 1”-1”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/8” from the marker on the neck, increase 31-35-37-41-45-47 stitches evenly spaced = 211-227-239-255-267-279 stitches.
When the piece measures 3-3-4-4-4-4 cm = 1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2” from the marker on the neck, start the pattern by working as follows from the right side: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1A until there are 6 stitches left on the row (= 50-54-57-61-64-67 repeats of 4 stitches), A.1B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. Read KNITTING TIP-1 and REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME increase stitches evenly spaced on each row marked with an arrow in A.1A as described below – remember INCREASE TIP-1 - NOTE: The first increase-row is from the wrong side and the 3 next increase-rows are from the right side.
Arrow-1: Increase 36-36-40-44-44-52 stitches evenly spaced = 247-263-279-299-311-331 stitches (there is now room for 59-63-67-72-75-80 repeats of A.1 with 4 stitches).
Arrow-2: Increase 40-42-50-54-60-64 stitches evenly spaced = 287-305-329-353-371-395 stitches (there is now room for 46-49-53-57-60-64 repeats of A.1 with 6 stitches).
Arrow-3: Increase 20-26-30-34-44-48 stitches evenly spaced = 307-331-359-387-415-443 stitches (there is now room for 74-80-87-94-101-108 repeats of A.1 with 4 stitches).
Arrow-4: Increase 12-20-24-24-28-32 stitches evenly spaced = 319-351-383-411-443-475 stitches (there is now room for 77-85-93-100-108-116 repeats of A.1 with 4 stitches).
When A.1 has been completed continue with stockinette stitch and olive, with 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side. AT THE SAME TIME on the first row after A.1, increase 2-6-6-10-6-14 stitches evenly spaced = 321-357-389-421-449-489 stitches.
Work until the piece measures 20-22-24-25-27-29 cm = 8”-8 3/4”-9 1/2”-9 3/4”-10 5/8”-11 3/8” from the marker on the neck.
Divide the yoke for body and sleeves, working the next round with olive as follows: Work 52-57-60-66-72-79 stitches in garter stitch and stockinette stitch as before (= front piece), place the next 62-70-80-84-86-92 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 93-103-109-121-133-147 stitches in stockinette stitch (= back piece), place the next 62-70-80-84-86-92 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 52-57-60-66-72-79 stitches in stockinette stitch and garter stitch as before (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 213-233-249-273-301-329 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 56-61-65-71-78-85 stitches in from each side (= 101-111-119-131-145-159 stitches between marker threads on the back piece). Allow them to follow your work onwards; they will be used when increasing in the sides.
Work stockinette stitch back and forth with olive and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side towards mid front.
When the piece measures 5 cm = 2” from the division in all sizes increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 5-5-5-4-4-4 cm = 2”-2”-2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2” a total of 5-5-5-6-6-6 times on each side = 233-253-269-297-325-353 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 30 cm = 11 3/4” from the division (there is approx. 3 cm = 1 1/8” to finished length; you can try the jacket on and continue working to desired length).
Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 75-83-87-99-107-115 stitches evenly spaced = 308-336-356-396-432-468 stitches (this is done so the rib is not tight).
Change to circular needle size 3 mm = US 2,5. The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, purl 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Loosely bind off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING OFF TIP! The jacket measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 62-70-80-84-86-92 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 3.5 mm = US 4 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 70-78-90-94-98-104 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches and allow it to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing mid under sleeve.
Start the round at the marker thread and work stockinette stitch in the round with olive.
When the piece measures 3 cm = 1 1/8” from the division in all sizes decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-2½-1½-1½-1½-1 cm = 1 1/4”-1”-1/2”-1/2”-1/2”-3/8” a total of 10-13-18-19-19-22 times = 50-52-54-56-60-62 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 38-36-34-33-31-30 cm = 15”-14 1/4”-13 3/8”-13”-12 1/4”-11 3/4” from the division (there is approx. 7 cm = 2 3/4” to finished length; you can try the jacket on and continue working to desired length). NOTE: Shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke.
Knit 1 round where you increase 18-20-18-20-20-22 stitches evenly spaced = 68-72-72-76-80-80 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm = US 2,5 and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 7 cm = 2 3/4”. Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING OFF TIP. The sleeve measures approx. 45-43-41-40-38-37 cm = 17 3/4”-17”-16 1/8”-15 3/4”-15”-14 1/2” from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = medium petrol
symbols = olive
symbols = dark grey green
symbols = off white
symbols = dark indigo
symbols = increase/decrease row
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (13)

country flag Trudy wrote:

Om dit vest met een verhoging aan de achterkant ( bij de nek) te breien: die extra toeren voor de verhoging brei ik nadat het halsboord gebreid is? Vgr Trudy

06.10.2023 - 20:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Trudy,

Ja klopt. Je breit eerst de halsboord en dan de verhoging.

08.10.2023 - 16:31

country flag Irmgard Paula wrote:

Habe die Jacke in XXL gestrickt. 19cm länger als in der Anleitung. Es blieben in der Farbe gelbgrün 100g und noch ein Knäuel mit 40g übrig.

06.11.2022 - 11:47

country flag Carin wrote:

Hej! Jag tänker använda mig av garnet Drops alpacka för att sticka denna kofta. Jag undrar om jag kan sticka på rundsticka, enbart rätstickning, klippa upp framstycket/framsidan och plocka upp maskor och sticka ”knappkanten” efter? (Istället för att sticka aviga och räta maskor) Hälsningar Carin

25.01.2022 - 18:21

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Carin. Ja det kan du göra, kom ihåg att lägga till några "uppklippningsmaskor" bara. Se gärna denna video för tips. Mvh DROPS Design

26.01.2022 - 10:49

country flag Nathalie wrote:

Bonjour, Sur le diagramme taille L il faut démarrer le diagramme sur l'endroit mais la première augmentation correspond à un rang envers alors qu'elle doit être faite à l'endroit selon les explications. Pouvez vous m'aider svp ? Dois je faire les augmentations sur un rang envers ou un rang endroit ? Merci d'avance !.

16.10.2021 - 21:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nathalie, le diagramme se commence sur l'endroit dans toutes les tailles, le 1er rang d'augmentation se fera effectivement sur l'envers, faites les jetés entre 2 m envers (cf cette vidéo) et tricotez ces jetés torse à l'endroit au rang suivant. Bon tricot!

18.10.2021 - 08:59

country flag Marjo Van T Hof wrote:

Ik ben tot nu toe niet tevreden met het antwoord! Want.... In het patroon staat wel degelijk, dat er onderaan het lijf (zie regel 12: brei 1 naald recht aan de goede kant ...etc etc.) 99 steken moeten worden gemeerderd. Zou u daar nogmaals uw licht over willen laten schijnen? Ik vin het aantal van 99 steken nogal veel om te moeten meerderen om de boordsteek niet té strak te laten zijn. Bvd

11.08.2021 - 09:25

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marjo,

Dan had ik je vraag in eerste instantie verkeerd begrepen. Er worden inderdaad 99 steken gemeerderd vlak voordat je de boord breit. De boord wordt vervolgens met een dunnere naald gebreid en om te voorkomen dat de boord te strak wordt (wat normaliter vaak wel de bedoeling is bij bijvoorbeeld een trui) moeten er zoveel steken gemeerderd worden. Op die manier blijft het lijf doorlopen in een lichte A-lijn.

17.08.2021 - 13:04

country flag Marjo wrote:

Ik ben tot nu toe niet tevreden met het antwoord! Want.... In het patroon staat wel degelijk, dat er onderaan het lijf (zie regel 12: brei 1 naald recht aan de goede kant ...etc etc.) 99 steken moeten worden gemeerderd. Zou u daar nogmaals uw licht over willen laten schijnen? Ik vin het aantal van 99 steken nogal veel om te moeten meerderen om de boordsteek niet té strak te laten zijn. Bvd

05.08.2021 - 10:32

country flag Marjo wrote:

Zojuist de pasafgerond en ben dus nu aan het zgn. lijf. Tot mijn verbazing zie ik, dat er bij een lengte van 30cm vanaf het meetpunt in het oksel, voor XL 99 steken moeten worden gemeerderd. Is dit niet héél erg veel l?? Tot dit punt bestaat het aantal steken uit 297. Dan is 99 steken dus 1/3 x zoveel . Ik twijfel heel erg of ik dít wel moet gaan doen. Kunt mij raad geven? Bij voorbaat dank. Mvrgr. Marjo

01.08.2021 - 20:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marjo,

Voor maar xl meerder je op het lijf van 273 naar 297 steken, dat zijn 24 steken in totaal.

02.08.2021 - 21:01

country flag May Anita Bulling wrote:

Hei. Ser desverre ikke hvor jeg ser målene på størrelser?? Så finner ikke ut hvilken str jeg skal velge? På forhånd takk.

06.02.2021 - 12:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hei May Anita. Målene til de forskjellige størrelsene finner du på målskissen nederst på oppskriften. mvh DROPS design

08.02.2021 - 13:41

country flag Christiane wrote:

Ik zie dat dit vest met naalddikte 3 en 3,5 wordt gebreid, terwijl naalddikte 3 bij deze wol geldt. Het vergelijkbaar vest Blueberry Fizz wordt met naaldiktes 2,5 en 3 gebreid. Wordt dit vest niet erg los met naalddikte 3,5?

04.01.2021 - 13:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Christiane,

Als je de juiste stekenverhouding hebt, zoals aangegeven in het patroon, kun je de aantallen steken aanhouden zoals beschreven. Per patroon kan de naalddikte soms inderdaad ietsje afwijken van wat normaal voor het garen geadviseerd wordt.

09.01.2021 - 16:13

country flag Marit wrote:

Jeg kan ikke finne at det står noe sted hvilken farge man skal ha på stolpene. Har jeg oversett noe? Går jo an å se på bildet, men hadde vært fint om det stod beskrevet.

07.04.2020 - 21:48

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Marit. Ditt ønske er oversendt til designavdelingen, slik at de kan ta en titt og evnt forbedre / lage en tekst ang farger og stolpen. mvh DROPS design

20.04.2020 - 13:27