45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 2.70 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Springtide Dance

Knitted socks in DROPS Nord. Piece is knitted top down with simple lace pattern. Size 35 to 43 = 5 to 10 1/2

DROPS 198-10
DROPS design: Pattern no-026
Yarn group A

US: 5/6 1/2 – 71/2/9 – 9 1/2/10 1/2
EU: 35/37 – 38/40 – 41/43
Foot length: 22-24-27 cm = 8¾"-9½"-10⅝" Sock height down to heel: approx. 15-15-15 cm = 6"-6"-6"

DROPS NORD from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100 g color 13, old pink

26 stitches in width and 34 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 mm = US 1,5 for stockinette stitch
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4" switch to smaller needles.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool
from 2.70 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.



See diagram A.1.

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches decreases are done over (e.g. 72 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 12) = 6.
In this example decrease by knitting every 5th and 6th stitch together.

KNITTING TIP (applies to heel):
To get a stronger heel the entire heel and heel decrease can be worked in 2 strands as follows: Use strand inside and outside of ball and work 1 stitch alternately with one and the other strand. This way you get a thicker heel without working with double strand.

ROW 1 (= right side): Knit until 8-9-9 stitches remain, slip next stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch knitted, turn piece.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Purl until 8-9-9 stitches remain, slip next stitch as if to purl, purl 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch purled, turn piece.
ROW 3 (= right side): Knit until 7-8-8 stitches remain, slip next stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch knitted, turn piece.
ROW 4 (= wrong side): Purl until 7-8-8 stitches remain, slip next stitch as if to purl, purl 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch purled, turn piece.
Continue decrease like this with 1 stitch less before each decrease until there are 14-14-16 stitches on needle.




Worked in the round on double pointed needles, top down.

Cast on 72-72-80 stitches on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm = US 1,5 with Nord. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for approx. 2½-3 cm = 1"-1⅛". Knit 1 round while decreasing 12-12-14 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP = 60-60-66 stitches. Work A.1A in the round (= 10-10-11 repetitions of 6 stitches). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Work A.1A 5 times in total vertically but on last round in last repetition with A.1A vertically, work as follows: Knit 17-16-15 and decrease at the same time 3-1-2 stitches evenly over these stitches (= 14-15-13 knit stitches), knit 28-30-32, knit 15-14-19 and decrease the the same time 3-1-2 stitches evenly over these stitches (= 12-13-17 knit stitches) = 54-58-62 stitches on round. The piece now measures approx. 15 cm = 6" from cast-on edge in all sizes.
Keep the first 14-15-13 stitches on needle, slip the next 28-30-32 stitches on 1 stitch holder (= mid on top of foot) and keep the remaining 12-13-17 stitches on needle = 26-28-30 stitches on needle for heel.
Read KNITTING TIP and work in stockinette stitch back and forth over heel stitches for 5-5½-6 cm = 2"-2⅛"-2⅜". Insert 1 marker in the middle of last row, marker should be used later to measure the length of foot.
Now work HEEL DECREASE - read explanation above. After heel decrease work next round as follows: Knit the 14-14-16 heel stitches, pick up 13-14-16 stitches along the side of heel, insert 1 marker, knit 1-2-3, work A.1A over the next 24 stitches (= 4 repetitions of 6 stitches), work A.1B (= 3 stitches), knit 0-1-2, insert 1 marker and pick up 13-14-16 stitches along the other side on heel = 68-72-80 stitches on round.
Continue pattern like this with stockinette stitch and A.1 over the 27 stitches mid on top of foot.
AT THE SAME TIME decrease on each side of the 28-30-32 stitches between markers on top of foot as follows: Knit the last 2 stitches before first marker on top of foot together and knit the 2 stitches after last marker on top of foot twisted together.
Decrease like this every other round 8-8-10 times in total = 52-56-60 stitches. Then continue until piece measures approx. 18-19-21 cm = 7"-7½"-8¼" from marker on heel (approx. 4-5-6 cm = 1½"-2"-2⅜" remain until finished measurements, try the sock on and work to desired length).
Remove the previous markers and insert 2 new markers in piece to that there are 26-28-30 stitches both on top and under foot (there should be 1 marker in each side of sock, and markers are used when decreasing for toes).
Work in stockinette stitch in the round over all stitches and decrease for toes on each side of both markers as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker is in the middle of these 2 stitches), knit 2 twisted together. Repeat at the other marker (= 4 stitches decreased on round).
Decrease like this in each side on every other round a total of 5-7-11 times and then on every round a total of 5-4-0 times = 12-12-16 stitches remain.
On next round knit all stitches together 2 by 2 = 6-6-8 stitches remain. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten. Sock measures approx. 22-24-27 cm = 8¾"-9½"-10⅝" from marker on heel. Work the other sock the same way.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
symbols = knit 2 together
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 198-10

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Comments / Questions (14)

country flag Charlotte Kristensen wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke dette “Fortsæt mønsteret således i glatstrik og A.1 over de 27 masker midt ovenpå foden.” Hvad med de sidste 3masler der over foden (der er jo 30masker og ikke kun 27)? Og jeg forstår ikke hvornår model A.1B skal bruges, for den nævnes kun en enkelt omgang og så bruges den ellers ikke😅 Hjælp 😅

29.12.2020 - 19:32

country flag Ambro wrote:

Bonjour, pourriez-vous m’éclairer sur la répartition des mailles pour le talon s’il vous plaît ? Je tricote avec des aiguilles circulaires pour la taille 41/43, et je ne comprends pas l’explication. Si je la suis, je me retrouve avec le fils de la pelote au milieu du rang du talon. Est-ce que je dois tricoter le talon en 2 parties (13 + 17m) ou d’un seul bloc (30m) ? Est-ce que je ne pourrais pas glisser les 32m en attente et tricoter le talon directement ? Merci beaucoup !

21.12.2020 - 00:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Ambro, le début des tours se trouve au milieu dos de la chaussette, le talon va donc se tricoter sur les 17 dernières mailles du tour + les 13 premières mailles du début du tour. Quand vous arrivez au début du talon, tricotez les 13 premières mailles, glissez les 32 mailles suivantes en attente, tournez et tricotez sur l'envers ces 13 m + les 17 dernières m = 30 m pour le talon. Bon tricot!

21.12.2020 - 08:38

country flag Rebecka wrote:

Hej! Jag ska nu sticka A1 5ggr på höjden. I diagrammet står det att jag ska sticka "2 maskor räta tillsammans" vid två tillfällen - vilket innebär att jag sammanlagt på 5ggr kommer minska 10 maskor. Dock ska jag vid slutet av det här momentet (när arbetet mäter 15cm) ha 58 maskor kvar. Jag förstår inte hur detta går ihop, har jag missförstått något?

19.12.2020 - 16:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Rebecka. Om du ser i diagrammet så har du även omslag i samband med att du stickar 2 maskor räta tillsammans vilket innebär att antalet maskor i diagrammet förblir detsamma. Mvh DROPS Design

21.12.2020 - 10:39

country flag Brugere wrote:

Merci ,merci de votre patience j ai enfin compris le sens des explications. Cordialement

27.03.2020 - 09:51

country flag Brugere wrote:

Re, Je vois pas les 27 mls car elles étaient de 30 au début à mettre en attente moi j ai 30 dessus de pied et 14 sur les 2 côtés et 14 dessous de pied. Je ne comprends pas .. merci pour vos précisions

26.03.2020 - 17:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Brugere, ces 27 mailles correspondent à celles que vous devez tricoter en suivant A.1A et A.1B dans cette partie: Tricoter à l’endroit les 14 mailles du talon, relever 14 mailles le long du côté du talon, placer 1 marqueur, tricoter 2 mailles endroit, A.1A au-dessus des 24 mailles suivantes (= 4 motifs de 6 mailles), A.1B (= 3 mailles) = 27 mailles du dessus du pied, 1 mailles endroit, placer 1 marqueur et relever 14 mailles le long de l’autre côté du talon = 72 mailles. Bon tricot!

27.03.2020 - 09:44

country flag Brugere wrote:

Bonjour, Apres les diminution du talons vous dites continuer en jersey avec A1 , cela veut dire quoi ? Les 27 mls du dessus pied vous les avez comment car j ai 30 mls pour la taille 38/40. Merci pour vos explications

26.03.2020 - 17:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Brugere, vous tricotez maintenant les 27 m du dessus du pied (celles qui étaient en attente) en suivant A.1 (reprenez le diagramme au 1er rang) et tricotez celles du dessous du pied (= les mailles relevées + celles du talon en jersey = 30 m en 38/40). Vous allez maintenant diminuer avant les 27 m et après les 27 m jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 56 m soit 27 pour le dessus du pied comme avant et 29 m jersey pour le dessous du pied. Bon tricot!

26.03.2020 - 17:24

country flag Brugere wrote:

Bonjour, Je reviens sur les diminutions du haut vraiment vraiment je ne comprends pas . Pouvez vous svp me decomposer exactement se rang ou c est rangs!!je n arrives pas du tout à comprendre comment on peut arriver à 58 mls ( je fais la taille 38/40) merci de votre compréhension cordialement

25.03.2020 - 16:55

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Brugere, en taille 38/40 vous montez 72 m, tricotez 2,5-3 cm de côtes 2/2 et tricotez ensuite 1 tour endroit en dimimnuant 14 m = il reste 60 mailles. Vous tricotez maintenant A.1A (= soit 10 fois 6 motifs en largeur) jusqu'à ce que vous ayez tricoté 5 fois le diagramme A.1a en hauteur (= 5 fois les 8 rangs de A.1A = 40 rangs), au 40ème rang, vous diminuez comme expliqué le 23/3 = il reste 58 mailles et vous tricotez le talon sur les 15 premières m + les 13 dernières m du tour (= 28 m pour le talon). Bon tricot!

25.03.2020 - 17:23

country flag Brugere wrote:

SVP ,quand vous parlez du dernier tour du dernier motif cela veut dire que les diminutions se font sur le (3ème tour de jersey ). Merci pour votre aide cordialement . ( diminutions avant talons )

24.03.2020 - 09:07

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Brugere, vous répétez 5 fois le diagramme A.1A en hauteur au total, et, vous diminuez au dernier rang du 5ème motif en hauteur = le 8ème rang des diagrammes (de la 5ème fois que vous les tricotez, autrement dit, 5 fois 8 rangs = au 40ème rang tricoté en A.1). Bon tricot!

24.03.2020 - 10:23

country flag HUBAC wrote:

Bonjour, Je vous en remercie pour votre réponse. Bien cordialement.

23.03.2020 - 21:02

country flag Brugere wrote:

Bonjour, Je tricote pour un 38/40, mais je ne comprends pas les diminutions apres le dernier motif pour obtenir les 58 mailles pouvez svp me venir en aide merci cordialement

23.03.2020 - 15:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Brugere, vous trouverez ici comment répartir des diminutions - en taille 38/40, il vous suffit simplement de tricoter les 16 premières mailles (au début du tour) en diminuant 1 maille (= 2 m ens à l'end), puis de tricoter 14 m end en diminuant 1 m et ainsi de suite, il doit vous rester 58 m à la fin de ce tour en diminuant bien aux endroits indiqués. Bon tricot!

23.03.2020 - 16:53