DROPS / 202 / 27

Robin Song by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with V-neck in DROPS Air. The piece is worked with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-197
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 110-118-126-134-146-158 cm = 43 3/8”-46 1/2”-49 1/2”-52 3/4”-57 3/8”-62”
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g color 13, orange

KNITTING GAUGE:
15 stitches in width and 19 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 6 MM = US 10 for stockinette stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 MM = US 10: length 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8 for rib.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: length 60 or 80 cm = 24” or 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.60 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 6.60 $ /50g
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 6.60 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 105 stitches) minus edge stitches (= 2 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be made (e.g. 21) = 4.9.
In this example, decrease by knitting together approx. each 4th and 5th stitch

DECREASE TIP-2 (for neck on back piece):
All decreases worked from right side.
Decrease 1 stitch after the 2 stitches in garter stitch from the neck as follows: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
Decrease 1 stitch before the 2 stitches in garter stitch towards the neck as follows: Knit 2 together.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before A.1 under the sleeve, make 1 yarn over, knit 2, A.1, knit 2, make 1 yarn over. On the next round knit yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work new stitches in stockinette stitch

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle in sections and sewn together to finish. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 105-111-117-129-141-153 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, (knit 1, purl 2) until there are 2 stitches left on row, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this back and forth for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Now knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 21-21-21-27-29-33 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP-1 = 84-90-96-102-112-120 STITCHES. Change to circular needle size 6 mm = US 10. Work stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm = 15 1/4”-15 3/4”-16 1/8”-16 1/2”-17”-17 1/4”. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! At the beginning of the next 2 rows bind off 3-4-4-5-6-6 stitches for armholes = 78-82-88-92-100-108 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19 3/4"-20 1/2"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8", work garter stitch over the middle 18-18-20-20-22-22 stitches on the row. When you have worked 2 ridges over these stitches work the next row from the right side as follows: Work the first 32-34-36-38-41-45 stitches and place on 1 thread for right shoulder, bind off the next 14-14-16-16-18-18 stitches for neck and work the remaining 32-34-36-38-41-45 stitches. Then finish the shoulders separately. Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the armhole, 2 stitches in garter stitch towards the neck and stockinette stitch over the remaining stitches. On the next row from the right side decrease 1 stitch inside the 2 stitches in garter stitch towards neck – read DECREASE TIP-2 = 31-33-35-37-40-44 stitches. Continue working until the armhole measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm = 6”-6 1/4”-6 3/4”-7”-7 1/2”-8”. Bind off. The piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the shoulder down. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 105-111-117-129-141-153 stitches (including 1 edge stitch on each side) with circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and Air. Purl 1 row from the wrong side then work rib as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (knit 1, purl 2) until there are 2 stitches left on row, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until the piece measures 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Now work as follows: Work the first 51-54-57-63-68-75 stitches and decrease at the same time 10-10-10-13-14-16 stitches evenly spaced, work A.1 (= 2 stitches), work the remaining stitches on the row and decrease at the same time 11-11-11-14-15-17 stitches evenly spaced = 84-90-96-102-112-120 stitches. Change to circular needle size 6 mm = US 10. Continue back and forth with A.1 over the middle 2 stitches, stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 34-36-37-39-40-42 cm = 13 3/8”-14 1/4”-14 1/2”-15 1/4”-15 3/4”-16 1/2” work A.2 over the middle 20 stitches on the row. The 2 middle stitches in A.2 should match the 2 stitches in A.1. When you have worked the row with the star, you have decreased 2 stitches in A.2 and the piece is now divided in the middle. Place the first half of the stitches (seen from the right side) on a thread (= right front piece/shoulder) and continue back and forth over the left front piece/shoulder. Continue with stockinette stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the armhole and A.2 towards the neck; i.e. you decrease for neck as shown in the last 6 rows of the diagram (3 decreases are shown in diagram) until you have decreased a total of 8-8-9-9-10-10 times. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 39-40-41-42-43-44 cm = 15 1/4”-15 3/4”-16 1/8”-16 1/2”-17”-17 1/4” bind off 3-4-4-5-6-6 stitches at the beginning of the row from the armhole. When all the decreases are finished, work as shown in A.3 over the outermost 5 stitches on the left front piece (towards the neck) to finished length. When all the decreases to neck and armhole are finished there are 31-33-35-37-40-44 stitches on shoulder. Continue working until the armhole measures approx. 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm = 6”-6 1/4”-6 3/4”-7”-7 1/2”-8” - adjust to match the back piece. Bind off. The piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the shoulder down.
Place the stitches from the thread back on the circular needle and work right front piece/shoulder in the same way as the left, but reversed; i.e. start from the wrong side, at the neck on the row after the star in A.2 and work as follows: Work the 9 stitches in A.2, stockinette stitch until there is 1 stitch left and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this and decrease for neck and armhole in the same way as on the left front piece. When the 8-8-9-9-10-10 decreases for neck are finished work A.4 over the outermost 5 stitches towards the neck to finished length. Adjust the length to match left front piece/shoulder and back piece.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked in the round with double pointed needles.
Cast on 42-42-45-48-48-51 stitches with double pointed needles size 5 mm = US 8. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (knit 1, purl 2) for 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Change to double pointed needles size 6 mm = US 10. The next round is worked as follows: Knit 2, work A.1 over the next 2 stitches (= purl 1 and knit 1), knit to end of round at the same time as you decrease 9-8-8-10-9-11 stitches evenly spaced = 33-34-37-38-39-40 stitches. Continue in the round with stockinette stitch and A.1 mid under sleeve. AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 8-9-9-9-8-8 cm = 3 1/8”-3 1/2”-3 1/2”-3 1/2”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”, increase 1 stitch on each side – read INCREASE TIP. Increase in the different sizes as follows:
Size S: Increase alternately every 6 and 7 cm = 2 3/8” and 2 3/4” a total of 6 times.
Size M: Increase every 5 cm = 2” a total of 7 times.
Size L: Increase every 5 cm = 2” a total of 7 times.
Size XL: Increase every 4 cm = 1 1/2” a total of 8 times.
Size XXL: Increase alternately every 3 and 4 cm = 1 1/8” and 1 1/2” a total of 9 times.
Size XXXL: Increase every 3 cm = 1 1/8” a total of 10 times.
When all the increases are finished there are 45-48-51-54-57-60 stitches on the round. Continue working until the piece measures 45-44-43-42-40-38 cm = 17 3/4”-17 1/4”-17”-16 1/2”-15 3/4”-15” (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider shoulders). Finish the round in the middle of diagram A.1 (= mid under sleeve). Now continue back and forth with stockinette stitch over all stitches (to allow you to sew the sleeve to the armhole). When you have worked back and forth for 2-3-3-4-4-4 cm = 3/4”-1 1/8”-1 1/8”-1 1/2”-1 1/2”-1 1/2” the sleeve measures a total of 47-47-46-46-44-42 cm = 18 1/2”-18 1/2”-18”-18”-17 1/4”-16 1/2”. Bind off. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams with grafting stitches inside the bind-off edge. Sew sleeves to body. Sew side seams inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 24.05.2019
Correction - SLEEVE: Cast on 42-42-45-48-48-51 stitches with double pointed needles size 5 mm = US 8.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= knit from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on next row (wrong side) purl yarn over to leave a hole
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass slipped stitch over knitted stitch
= when this row is finished, the piece is divided for right and left shoulder and each piece is finished separately
= this square has no stitch as the stitch was decreased earlier. The squares mark the decreases for neck mid front


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 202-27) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (25)

Walaa 26.12.2019 - 23:55:

I don't quite understand the part of the sleeves which says (knit 2 then work A1(= purl 1 and knit 1) should i purl 1 and knit 1 or work A1 as the diagram ? also how is this middle under arm if i knitted 2 at the first of the row this is not the middle it will be abit shifted to the right

DROPS Design 02.01.2020 kl. 11:16:

Dear Walaa, you work A.1 over the next 2 stitches (these stitches are P1 and K1), then knit to the end of the round. ie the first stitch in A.1 is worked over P1 from the rib and the 2nd stitch in A.1 is worked over K1 from the rib. Middle of the sleeve is: K2, A.1, K2 so that you will inc at the end of the round before the K2 before A.1 and after the K2 after A.1 - see INCREASE TIP (for sleeves). Happy knitting!

Nathalie 05.09.2019 - 23:04:

Bonjour, je fais ce pull en M. Le rang avec l'étoile est mon 69ème rang et est celui où je diminue les 2 m. centrales de A2. Je fais mon 70ème rang comme décrit mais à mon 71ème rang, la dernière diminution (après le jeté) est décalé donc le motif aussi.. En suivant vos explications, il ne me reste que 2m end. à la fin de A2. Je pense qu'il y a 1 m. end. de trop. Pourriez-vous m'aider svp? Merci d'avance

DROPS Design 06.09.2019 kl. 08:20:

Bonjour Nathalie, au 7ème rang de A.1 (= étoile), on diminue 2 mailles, au rang suivant, on termine chaque devant séparément, on doit tricoter 2 mailles endroit sur l'envers côté encolure, et, sur l'endroit, on va continuer la diagonale ajourée de A.2 comme avant, par ex côté droit de A.2 on doit avoir 3 m end, puis 2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté, puis on aura 2 m end avant les 2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 2 m ens à l'end, 1 m end. Les jours de A.2 doivent continuer en diagonale le long de l'encolure. N'hésitez pas à placer un marqueur pour délimiter A.2, ce sera plus facile de suivre le diagramme. Bon tricot!

Clare Myers 13.08.2019 - 10:04:

I have a question about the decrease row on the Front: XXL size. After decreases in 1st half I have 54 stitches - then A1= 2 stitches - then decreases in the 2nd half leaves 56 stitches. So A1 is not quite central 54/2/56. The following row says to do A1 over the MIDDLE two stitches. The middle 2 stitches of this row would be 55 & 56 (A1 was 57/58 the equiv of in the previous row) . Does this mean it should not line up with the A1 in the row before?

DROPS Design 13.08.2019 kl. 11:36:

Dear Mrs Myers, there are 112 sts on needle, then you decrease 2 sts on 7th row in A.2 = 110 sts remain, you should have now 55 stitches for each front piece. When you start working A.2, the 2 middle sts in A.2 should be the 2 sts from A.1 (= the 2 middle sts on piece), On 7th row, you dec the 8th and 9th stitch in A.2, K2 and dec the next 2 sts - if A.2 has been worked over A.1, you should have the 55 sts on each side. Happy knitting!

Nathalie Perlot 28.05.2019 - 14:42:

Bonjour, je commence le pull avec la laine "Air" du modèle et les aiguilles préconisées mais si mon échantillon jersey est égale au votre,lorsque je commence le modèle en côtes,je me retrouve avec 75 cm de largeur.est-ce vraiment normal de monter autant de mailles ? j'ai l'impression en voyant la photo que la bordure côte est plutôt moins large que la suite en jersey alors que si je suis les instructions,je vais avoir l'effet inverse.. merci de m'éclairer

DROPS Design 28.05.2019 kl. 14:59:

Bonjour Mme Perlot, si votre tension est correcte en jersey, vous devriez avoir, après les côtes les 110 m + 2 m lis (en taille XXL) = 73 cm (soit 112 m = 74.6 cm environ). On monte plus de mailles au début pour éviter que les côtes ne resserrent trop la base du pull, on va ensuite diminuer pour avoir la bonne largeur, ainsi, les côtes feront la même largeur que le pull. Bon tricot!

Britt 24.05.2019 - 10:04:

Der Anschlag für die Ärmel in Gr. S und M müssten doch 42 Maschen sein, sonst geht der Rapport nicht auf? Und ist es richtig, dass das Muster am unteren Ärmel gestrickt wird? (auf den Bildern ist das leider nicht zu erkennen)

DROPS Design 24.05.2019 kl. 14:06:

Liebe Britt, Sie sind ja recht, in die beiden ersten Größen muss man 42 Maschen anschlagen. Anleitung wird angepasst. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Marianne Antonsen 20.05.2019 - 21:37:

Finner ikke diagrammene til oppskriften.

DROPS Design 21.05.2019 kl. 14:28:

Hei Marianne. Diagrammene ligger helt nederst på siden, sammen med målskissen. Om du har problemer med å se den kan du forsøke å bytte enhet, eventuelt printe ut oppskriften. God fornøyelse

Kristin Eriksen 19.05.2019 - 23:03:

Er det noen grunn til at man ikke kan strikke denne på rundpinne opp til ermhull?

Louisa 16.05.2019 - 09:10:

Bij het patroon van de hals staat bij het hokje met horizontaal streepje (-) recht aan de goede kant. Maar hoe wordt deze steek op de teruggaande naald gebreid?

DROPS Design 22.05.2019 kl. 13:30:

Dag Louisa,

Deze steek brei je ook recht aan de verkeerde kant. Dit staat er inderdaad niet goed bij; ik zal het meteen aanpassen!

Nora 02.04.2019 - 20:55:

Når skuldrene på baksiden skal strikkes står det at det skal felles 1 maske innenfor de to rilemaskene. Det står deretter at en skal benytte felletips 2 og ende opp med, for meg, 33 masker. Felletips 2 sier likevel at man skal felle 2 masker. Hva er det jeg ikke forstår ? Hvordan er det dette skal felles ? Og forstår jeg det rett at det bare skal felles på en pinne ? Ikke ut hele skulderen ?

DROPS Design 08.04.2019 kl. 14:15:

Hei Nora. Felletips 2 forklarer hvordan det felles innenfor de 2 rillemaskene både på høyre og venstre skulder. Du skal felle fra rettsiden, så når du strikker venstre skulder feller du ETTER rillemaskene nærmest halsen, og når du strikker høyre skulder feller du FØR rillemaskene nærmest halsen. Det felles altså kun 1 maske på hver skulder, men de felles ulikt. Derfor står det forklaring på hvordan begge maskene felles. God fornøyelse.

Thea 20.03.2019 - 11:28:

Når dere skriver: "111 masker (Inkludert 1 kantmaske i hver side)" Mener dere da at det totalt blir 113 masker ? Jeg forstod det som at det var 111 masker inkludert kantmaskene.... men jeg får da ikke riktig antall når jeg feller. Dette bør spesifiseres bedre 😅

DROPS Design 21.03.2019 kl. 14:50:

Hei Thea. Det er 111 masker inkludert kantmaskene, altså 2 kantmasker (1 i hver side) og 109 masker mellom. Ved hvilken felling er det du ikke får riktig maskeantall? Etter vrangborden feller du 21 masker, da har du 90 masker igjen. Du feller av 4 masker i hver side til ermhull (= 8 masker), og du har da 82 masker på pinnen. Videre felles 14 masker til hals og du har 34 masker på hver skulder. God fornøyelse

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