DROPS / 200 / 1

Back to the Beach by DROPS Design

Crocheted bags with stripes in DROPS Paris. The piece is worked in the round, bottom up.

Tags: bags, lace, stripes,
DROPS Design: Pattern no w-767
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
One-size.
Measurements: Circumference: 86 cm. Length (without straps): 36 cm.

MATERIALS (for 1 bag in each colour):
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250 g colour 17, off white
150 g colour 41, mustard
100 g colour 59, old pink
100 g colour 101, light blue
100 g colour 35, vanilla
For 1 bag you need 100 g colour 17 off white, 50 g colour 41 mustard and 100 g of colour at bottom of bag.

If you work the piece in one colour only, you will need:
250 g Paris for 1 bag.

CROCHET TENSION:
16 treble crochets in width and 9 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 MM.
The hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 0.95 £ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.05 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 0.95 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 13.30£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of each round of double crochets, replace the first double crochet with 1 chain stitch. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round.
At the beginning of each round of treble crochets, replace the first treble crochet with 3 chain stitches. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the 3rd chain stitch at the beginning of the round.

CROCHET TIP (for chain stitches):
1 chain stitch is equivalent to 1 treble crochet in width. Make sure the loop made in the chain stitch is pulled some way up the hook so that it is not tight. If the chain stitch is worked too tightly, the pattern will be tight in sections where there are lots of chain stitches.

INCREASE TIP-1:
Increase 1 treble crochet by working 2 treble crochets in 1 treble crochet. Increase 1 treble crochet in each stitch before and after both marker threads (= 4 treble crochets increased on round).

INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly count the total number of stitches on the round (e.g. 130 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 8) = 16.25. 
In this example increase by working 2 treble crochets in approx. each 16th stitch.

3 TREBLE CROCHETS TO 1 TREBLE CROCHET:
Work 1 treble crochet in first stitch, but wait with the last yarn over and pull through (= 2 loops on hook), work 1 more treble crochet in the same way in each of the next 2 stitches, but pull the last yarn over through all 4 loops on the hook (= 1 stitch)

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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BAG - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round, bottom up. The bottom is crocheted together to finish.

BAG:
Work 142 chain stitches with hook size 4.5 mm and old pink. Form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch on the round.
ROUND 1: Work 1 chain stitch (= 1 double crochet) – read CROCHET INFORMATION, work 1 double crochet in the next chain stitch, * skip the next chain stitch, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches *, work from *-* a total of 28 times = 114 double crochets. Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round and a marker thread after 57 double crochets (= 57 double crochets left on round).
ROUNDS 2-5: Work 1 treble crochet in each double crochet. AT THE SAME TIME on each round increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 130 stitches. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
ROUND 6: Work 1 treble crochet in each treble crochet and increase 8 treble crochets evenly on round – read INCREASE TIP-2 = 138 treble crochets.
Now continue as follows – read CROCHET TIP: Work A.1 a total of 46 times on the round. When the diagram has been completed in height repeat the last row in the diagram. When the piece measure 18 cm from the cast-on edge change to off white. Continue working the last round in A.1 until the piece measures 31 cm from the cast on edge.

Work A.2 over each repeat of A.1 – remember CROCHET INFORMATION.
Change to mustard and work the edge and straps as follows:
ROUND 1: Work * 1 treble crochet in each of the first 23 treble crochets, work 72 chain stitches – make sure that the chain stitches are not tight (the row of chain stitches should measure 45 cm), skip 23 treble crochets, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 23 treble crochets *, work from *-* 1 more time on the round = 2 straps.
ROUND 2: Work * 1 treble crochet in each of the first 21 treble crochets, work 3 TREBLE CROCHETS TO 1 TREBLE CROCHET – read description above, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 70 chain stitches (there is 1 chain stitch left before the next treble crochet on the round), work 3 TREBLE CROCHETS TO 1 TREBLE CROCHET, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 21 treble crochets *, work from *-* 1 more time on the round = 228 treble crochets.
ROUND 3: Work 1 double crochet in each treble crochet.
Cut and fasten the strands. Turn the piece so that right side faces right side and crochet the bottom together along the first row of chain stitches worked. Crochet using the same colour as you have used at the bottom of the bag and work through both layers starting from the marker thread at the beginning of the round as follows: Work 1 double crochet in each chain stitch, but skip the same chain stitches skipped at the start of the piece. Cut and fasten the strand.
Work 2 more bags in the same way, but start with light blue or vanilla instead of old pink.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 02.05.2019
Correction - straps: ROUND 2: Work * 1 treble crochet in each of the first 21 treble crochets, work 3 TREBLE CROCHETS TO 1 TREBLE CROCHET – read description above, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 70 chain stitches (there is 1 chain stitch left before the next treble crochet on the round), work 3 TREBLE CROCHETS TO 1 TREBLE CROCHET, work 1 treble crochet in each of the next 21 treble crochets *, work from *-* 1 more time on the round = 228 treble crochets.

Diagram

= 1 chain stitch
= 1 treble crochet in stitch
= 1 treble crochet around chain-space
= start on this round - previous round already worked

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 200-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (47)

Dani 05.10.2019 - 09:25:

Hallo! Auf den Bildern sehe ich, dass in Natur der Abschluss mit A.2 gehäkelt ist. In der Anleitung finde ich davon aber nichts. Wieviele Reihen mache ich bevor ich zu den Trägern in senf wechsle? Danke, Dani

DROPS Design 07.10.2019 kl. 10:57:

Liebe Dani, Sie häkeln A.1 mit Natur bis die Arbeit 31 cm misst, dann häkeln Sie A.2 (= 2 Reihen mit Natur), und dann zu senf wechseln und Sie häkeln jetzt die 3 Runde wie beschrieben. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Isabella 17.08.2019 - 20:11:

Hej, jeg er ikke sikker på hvor mange omgange jeg skal bruge det lyserøde garn?

Vicente 07.08.2019 - 08:58:

Je je comprends pas vos explications Pourriez vous m’envoyer le diagramme du modèle ? Merci

DROPS Design 07.08.2019 kl. 12:33:

Bonjour Vicente, vous trouverez les diagrammes des points utilisés en bas des explications. Lisez attentivement les explications écrites, vous trouverez ici plus d'infos sur les diagrammes au crochet. Bon crochet!

Denise Angel 24.07.2019 - 17:07:

Please tell me on the pattern where I can find the band that is shown in the pictures directly beneath the row with the handles. I see the bag pattern and then it switches to the handle. but where is the band section that looks like double crochets? Thank you SOO much! Denise

DROPS Design 25.07.2019 kl. 18:58:

Hi Denise! Work A.2 over each repeat of A.1, in other words you have to do 2 rounds in treble crochets in off white. I have this bag and it is fantastic. Good luck!

Chantal Michaud 22.07.2019 - 13:56:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas les diagramme A.1 et A.2. Est-ce possible d'avoir un tutoriel ? merci beaucoup

DROPS Design 22.07.2019 kl. 19:39:

Bonjour Chantal! Pour le moment il n’y a pas de video correspondant a ce projet. Suivez les explications: pour le fond vous faites 1 bride dans chaque bride, ensuite vous crochetez le 1er rang de A.1 ainsi: *1 bride dans la bride suivante, 2 ml, sautez 2 brides*, et répétez de *-* tout le tour (en commençant le tour par 3 ml pour remplacer la 1ère bride, vous avez ainsi, 5 ml au début du tour, sautez 2 brides, répétez de *-* et terminez par 1 mc dans la 3ème des 5 ml du début du tour. Continuez ainsi pendant toute la partie A.1. Pour le haut du sac vous crochetez de nouveau 1 bride dans chaque bride. Bon crochet!

Gauthier 17.07.2019 - 14:57:

Bonjour les quantités mentionnées sont erronées avec 2 pelotes de coloris bleu clair (100 g), je n'ai pu faire que les 6 rangs de brides et 4 rang de filet.

DROPS Design 17.07.2019 kl. 15:22:

Bonjour Mme Gauthier, aviez-vous bien le bon échantillon? Soit 16 brides x 9 rangs = 10 x 10 cm? Merci!

Kris Forsyth 03.07.2019 - 06:51:

OK now I am on the A2 portion of this pattern. Can you give me the written directions instead of the diagram please? This is the handle section, correct?

DROPS Design 03.07.2019 kl. 07:53:

Dear Mrs Forsyth, on first row in A.2 work: (1 dc in first dc, 2 dc around the 2-ch-space), repeat from (to) all the round. On row 2 in A.2, work 1 dc in each dc around. Happy crocheting!

Miriam Schmidt-Ertl 02.07.2019 - 09:26:

Liebes Drops Design Team, hab´s immer noch nicht verstanden. Die Tasche besteht doch aus einem Lochmuster. Wenn ich aber nun bei A2 zwei Stäbchen um den Luftmaschenbogen von A1 häkel, dann habe ich doch kein Lochmuster, also keine Zwischenräume zwischen den Stäbchen von A1. Dann hätte ich doch eine Reihe nur aus Stäbchen...viele Grüße, Miriam

DROPS Design 02.07.2019 kl. 10:39:

Liebe Frau Schmidt-Ertl, stimmt, A.1 (= Lochmuster) wird bis 31 cm gehäkelt, Sie werden A.2 nur fur das obere Kante von der Tasche häklen (= die 4 letzten Reihen oben an der Tasche, inkl; die Hänger werden im Stb gehäkelt). Die erste Reihe in A.2 zeigt, wie man nach A.1 häkelt. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Miriam Schmidt-Ertl 01.07.2019 - 22:21:

Hallöchen,ich bin eigentlich eine erfahrene Häklerin,hab aber glaub ich ein Brett vorm Kopf bei dieser Anleitung. Ich verstehe nicht wie man das Muster hinbekommt. Wenn ich zunächst nach Diagramm A1 Häkel,dann hab ich doch immer nur Stäbchen mit zwei Luftmaschen dazwischen. Wie passt dann A2 dazu,wenn man die Stäbchen um die Luftmaschen häkelt? Dann hätte man doch keine Zwischenräume wie bei dem Netzmuster auf dem Bild oder? Habe ich mich verständlich ausgedrückt? LG,Miriam

DROPS Design 02.07.2019 kl. 08:47:

Liebe Frau Schmidt-Ertl, A.1 und A.2 werden beide über 3 Maschen gehäkelt, bei A.1 häkeln Sie: *1 Stb in das nächste Stb, 2 Lm, 2 Stb überspringen*, von *bis * immer wiederholen. Bei A.2 häkeln Sie: *1 Stb in das nächste Stb, 2 Stb um den 2 Lm*, von *bis* immer wiederholen, bei der nächsten Reihe häkeln Sie 1 Stb in jedem Stb. Bitte nur beachten, daß Ihre Luftmaschen die richtige länge haben, damit sie die Arbeit nicht verringern/vergrößern. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Douilly Busschots Françoise 21.06.2019 - 11:43:

Bonjour Je pense que je me suis mal exprimée. En fait j'ai terminé le sac. Ce que je ne parviens pas à crocheter, c'est la fermeture du fond du sac sur l'envers

DROPS Design 21.06.2019 kl. 12:34:

Bonjour Mme Douilly Busschots, quand il est terminé, mettez votre sac sur l'envers, pliez-le en double (attention à ce que les anses soient bien en vis à vis) et crochetez 1 maille serrée en piquant dans les deux épaisseurs (= les 2 côtés du sac) dans chacune des mailles en l'air où vous avez crocheté 1 maille serrée au tout premier rang (on avait monté 142 ml, et on a 114 ms, vous devez ainsi crocheter 57 ms pour fermer le fond du sac. Bon crochet!

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