DROPS / 187 / 17

Sugar Mesh by DROPS Design

Crocheted shopping net/tote bag with chain-spaces. Piece is crocheted bottom up in DROPS Muskat.

Tags: bags, lace,
DROPS design: Pattern r-732
Yarn group B
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Measurements:
Height: approx. 37-38 cm vertically when flat.
Circumference: approx. 75 cm along upper edge.
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
150 g colour 40, coral

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 20 double crochets x 20 rows = 10 cm in width and 10 cm vertically.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 4.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

CROCHET INFO (applies to bottom and edge):
Replace first double crochet with 1 chain stitch and finish round with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch.
Replace first half treble crochet with 2 chain stitches and finish round with 1 slip stitch in 2nd chain stitch.
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SHOPPING NET:
Begin shopping net with a circle with double crochets in the base, then work chain-spaces to form the net. Then work an edge with a handle in each side.

BASE:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 3.5 mm and Muskat, form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. READ CROCHET INFO.
ROUND 1: Work 6 double crochets in ring.
ROUND 2: Work 2 double crochets in every double crochet = 12 stitches.
ROUND 3: Work * 1 double crochet in first stitch, 2 double crochets in next stitch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 18 stitches.
ROUND 4: Work * 1 double crochet in each of the first 2 stitches, 2 double crochets in next stitch *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 stitches.
ROUNDS 5-10: Continue to work and increase this way, work 1 stitch more before every increase on every round.
After ROUND 10 there are 60 stitches on round and circle measures approx. 10 cm in diameter.

NET:
Now work chain-spaces to form the net. Work as follows:
ROUND 1: Work 2 chain stitches, * skip 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet in next stitch, 2 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 slip stitch around the first 2 chain stitches on round = 30 chain-spaces.
ROUND 2: Work 3 chain stitches, insert a marker in these 3 chain stitches (= 1st chain-space). This is done to make it easier to see where 1st chain-space is when continuing. Then work * 1 double crochet around next chain-space, 3 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* until 1st chain-space and finish with 1 slip stitch around this chain-space.
ROUND 3: Work 4 chain stitches, move the marker to these chain stitches (= 1st chain-space). Then work * 1 double crochet around next chain-space, 4 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* until 1st chain-space and finish with 1 slip stitch around this chain-space.
ROUND 4: Work 5 chain stitches, move the marker to these chain stitches (= 1st chain-space). Then work * 1 double crochet around next chain-space, 5 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* until 1st chain-space and finish with 1 slip stitch around this chain-space.
ROUND 5: Work 6 chain stitches, move the marker to these chain stitches (= 1st chain-space). Then work * 1 double crochet around next chain-space, 6 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* until 1st chain-space and finish with 1 slip stitch around this chain-space.
ROUND 6: Work 7 chain stitches, move the marker to these chain stitches (= 1st chain-space). Then work * 1 double crochet around next chain-space, 7 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* until 1st chain-space and finish with 1 slip stitch around this chain-space.
ROUND 7: Work 8 chain stitches, move the marker to these chain stitches (= 1st chain-space). Then work * 1 double crochet around next chain-space, 8 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* until 1st chain-space and finish with 1 slip stitch around this chain-space.
ROUNDS 8-16: Work as ROUND 7 (all chain-spaces have 8 chain stitches).
ROUNDS 17-18: Work as ROUND 6 (all chain-spaces have 7 chain stitches).
ROUNDS 19-20: Work as ROUND 5 (all chain-spaces have 6 chain stitches).
ROUNDS 21-22: Work as ROUND 4 (all chain-spaces have 5 chain stitches) but finish ROUND 22 with 1 slip stitch in 1st chain stitch at beginning of round.

EDGE WITH HANDLE:
ROUND 1: Work 5 half treble crochets around every chain-space from previous round = 150 half treble crochets.
ROUND 2: Work 1 double crochet in every half treble crochet = 150 double crochets.
ROUND 3: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 25 double crochets, work 75 chain stitches (= handle), skip 25 double crochets, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 50 double crochets, work 75 chain stitches (= handle) and skip 25 double crochets, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 25 double crochets.
ROUND 4: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 25 double crochets, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 75 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in each of the next 50 double crochets, 1 double crochet in each of the next 75 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in each of the last 25 double crochets.
ROUND 5: Work 1 slip stitch in each of the first 25 double crochets, 1 double crochet in each of the next 75 double crochets (= handle), 1 slip stitch in each of the next 50 double crochets, 1 double crochet in each of the next 75 double crochets (= handle), 1 slip stitch in each of the last 25 double crochets. Fasten off.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 187-17) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (27)

Kathy Almonte 13.06.2019 - 21:24:

When we start the edge, do you do as on the bottom ie; chain one for first stitch .?

DROPS Design 14.06.2019 kl. 07:21:

Dear Mrs Almonte, you should replace 1st hdc with 1 chain and 1st dc with 1 ch (see CROCHET INFO). Happy crocheting!

Veronica Bellotti 11.06.2019 - 12:47:

Cosa vuol dire GIRI 5-10: Continuare a lavorare e aumentare in questo modo, lavorare 1 maglia in più prima di ogni aumento su ogni giro ? grazie

DROPS Design 11.06.2019 kl. 12:55:

Buongiorno Veronica. P.es al giro 5, lavora 1 m.bassa in ognuna delle prime 3 maglie, 2 maglie basse nella maglia successiva e così su tutto il giro. Al giro 6, lavora 1 m bassa in ognuna delle prime 4 maglie, 2 maglie basse nella maglia successiva e così su tutto il giro. Ad ogni giro lavora 1 maglia in più prima di lavorare 2 maglie nella stessa maglia. Buon lavoro!

Susanne Borer 07.06.2019 - 16:48:

Danke, aber hier steht doch und zunehmen in jeder Runde 1 Mache mehr... damit man 60 Machen hat. Können Sie nochmals helfen. Danke 5.-10. RUNDE: Wie zuvor häkeln und zunehmen, d.h. in jeder Rund 1 Masche mehr zwischen den Zunahmen häkeln. Nach der 10. RUNDE sind 60 Maschen in der Runde und der Kreis hat einen Durchmesser von ca. 10 cm.

DROPS Design 11.06.2019 kl. 09:34:

Liebe Frau Borer, oh Sie meinten ja beim Boden, ich war schon beim Netz, also bei der 5. Runde Boden häkeln Sie: *1 fM in die 3 ersten M., 2 fM in die nächste M*, und von *bis * wiederholen. Bei der 6. Runde häkeln Sie *1 fM in die 4 ersten M, 2 fM in die nächste M*, und so weiter, dh bei jeder Runde häkeln Sie 1 fM mehr zwischen den Zunahmen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Susanne Borer 07.06.2019 - 15:54:

Grüezi Könnten Sie mir sagen wie ich in den Runden 5-10 Maschen aufnheme und wie ich diese in der Runde häkeln muss. Die Runden werden ja mit 2 feste Mache und in die 3. kommen ja dann 2 Maschen. Kein Tutorial gefunden. Danke für Feedback. Mit besten Grüssen Susanne

DROPS Design 07.06.2019 kl. 16:09:

Liebe Frau Borer, es wird bei den Runden 5 bis 10 nicht zugenommen, dh die Anzahl vom Luftmaschenbogens bleibt gleich, es gibt nur 1 Luftmaschen mehr in jeder Runde (= 6 Lm/LmB bei der 5. Rd, 7 Lm/LmB bei der 6. Rd usw). Jede Runde beginnt und ende wie bei 4. Runde. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Madlenka 06.06.2019 - 16:57:

Vzpomínám si, že jsem v dětství měla podobnou síťovku, už se těším, až si ji uháčkuju i s vylepšením, které měla ta původní: dvojité dýnko sešité cca ze tří čtvrtin zapínací na patentku. Do této kapsičky se celá síťovka složila.

Regine Vande Mergel 02.06.2019 - 10:41:

Ik begrijp niet wat er met toer 5-10( basis) bedoelt wordt :ga verder met haken enmeerderen opdeze manier : haak 1 steek meer voor iedere meerdering op iedere toer,

DROPS Design 24.07.2019 kl. 10:06:

Dag Regine,

Op toer 4 haak je 2 steken dan 2 vasten in de volgende steek (= 1 meerdering), op de 5e toer haak je 3 steken dan 2 vasten in de volgende steek, op de 6e toer haak je 4 steken dan 2 vasten in de volgende steek, en zo dus op elke toer een steek meer voordat je meerdert.

Garatti 30.05.2019 - 23:03:

Bonsoir je suis bien les explications mais le filet prend forme à plat. Il ne monte pas comme dans la vidéo. J'ai bien les 30 arceaux demandés. J'en suis au tour 6. Par avance merci

DROPS Design 31.05.2019 kl. 09:52:

Bonjour Mme Garatti, si vous avez bien le bon nombre d'arceaux, le sac va "monter" progressivement, mais il vous faudra davantage de rangs que dans la vidéo pour le voir - on crochète au total 22 tours d'arceaux pour la partie "haute" du sac. Bon crochet!

Anna 11.04.2019 - 11:10:

Where the American English pattern says "half single crochet" - is this meant to be half double crochet? I think the video shows a half double crochet., and I can't seem to find the term "half single crochet" anywhere.

DROPS Design 11.04.2019 kl. 11:36:

Dear Anna, yes, in fact that means half double crochet in US terms. May be it would be more comfortable to swich to some another language - Brittish English or even Czech :-) Languange you can choose right under the picture. Happy crochetting! Hana

Suzanne 06.04.2019 - 12:16:

I made this pattern. But the bag turned out so small! Like half the size of what it should be.

DROPS Design 08.04.2019 kl. 10:32:

Dear Suzanne, did you checked your tension? And then kept the same tension as for your swatch? Remember the hook size is always a guideline, you might have to use a smaller or a larger hook size to get the correct tension. Happy crocheting!

Inge 13.03.2019 - 11:35:

Mijn tas is heel mooi afgewerkt, maar de handlussen zijn aan de binnenzijde wel niet zo stevig, dat rekt zo een beetje open en zou met de tijd loskomen. Kan ik dit oplossen met de handvatten aan de binnenzijde en de 25 steken tussen het handvat een extra rij vasten te geven? Of kan ik dit nog anders oplossen? De buitenzijde van de handvatten is wel steviger omdat die een extra rij kregen.

DROPS Design 15.03.2019 kl. 18:35:

Dag Inge,

Ja, dat is een goed idee om het zo op te lossen. Je zou die extra toer van vasten ook wat strakker kunnen haken (bijvoorbeeld door een kleinere naald te gebruiken)

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