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  1. Free patterns
  2. Women
  3. Accessories
  4. Bags
  5. DROPS
  6. 199
  7. 15

Pacific Blues by DROPS Design

Crocheted bag in DROPS Cotton Light. The piece is worked in the round with chain-spaces and treble crochet groups.

Keywords: bag, lace

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DROPS 199-15
DROPS Design: Pattern no cl-098
Yarn group B
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SIZE:
Measurements: Crochet square: approx. 74 x 74 cm before edge and straps are worked.
Straps: approx. 33 cm without edge (approx.43 cm including edge). NOTE: Straps will stretch after use.

MATERIALS:
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
250 g colour 34, light jeans blue

CROCHET TENSION:
18 treble crochets in width and 9 rows in height = 10 x 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 MM.
Hook size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger hook size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller hook size.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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50% Cotton, 50% Polyester 		from 1.15 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Light uni colour DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 1.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.75£. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN: 
See diagram A.1.

CROCHET INFORMATION:
At the beginning of each round of double crochets, start with 1 chain stitch; this chain stitch does not replace the first double crochet. The round finishes with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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BAG - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round from the bottom of the bag and outwards in a square. Then the edge and straps are worked in the round.

SQUARE:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 4 mm and Cotton Light and form them into a ring with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch. Continue in the round according to diagram A.1. When A.1 has been worked in height continue in the round as shown, working the last 2 rounds in the diagram; i.e. there will be 1 more chain-space on each side of the square every time you work a round. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When you have worked 28 rounds from the chain-stitch ring and outwards there are 27 chain-spaces along each side + chain-space in each corner. Finish the 28th round with 1 double crochet (white star) as shown in A.1, then work 6 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in the first of the 4 treble crochets before the next corner. The piece measures approx. 74 x 74 cm.

EDGE AND STRAPS:
Now work edge and straps as follows:
ROUND 1: * Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 4 treble crochets – read CROCHET INFORMATION, work 2 double crochets around the chain-space in corner, 5 chain stitches, 2 double crochets around the same chain-space in corner, 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 treble crochets, 3 double crochets around each of the next 3 chain-spaces, 1 double crochet around each of the next 21 chain-spaces, 3 double crochets around each of the next 3 chain-spaces *, work from *-* a total of 4 times on the round (= 51 double crochets on each side).
ROUND 2: * Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 6 stitches, 2 double crochets around the chain-space in corner, 5 chain stitches, 2 double crochets around the same chain-space in corner, 1 double crochet in each of the next 6 stitches, 1 double crochet in each of the next 39 double crochets *, work from *-* a total of 4 times on the round (= 55 double crochets on each side).
ROUND 3: * Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 8 stitches, 2 double crochets around the chain-space in corner, 5 chain stitches, 2 double crochets around the same chain-space in corner, 1 double crochet in each of the next 8 stitches, 1 double crochet in each of the next 39 double crochets *, work from *-* a total of 4 times on the round (= 59 double crochets on each side).
Now work straps as follows:
ROUND 4: Work 1 double crochet in each of the first 10 stitches, * 3 double crochets around the chain-space in corner, work 60 loose chain stitches for the strap, skip the next side of the square and continue working around the chain-space in the next corner (make sure the row of chain stitches has not twisted) work 3 double crochets around the chain-space in corner, 1 double crochet in each double crochet as far as the next corner *, work from *-* 1 more time but finish with 1 slip stitch in the first chain stitch at the beginning of the round.
ROUND 5: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch.
ROUND 6: Work 1 double crochet in each stitch. Cut and fasten strand.

Now work a round of double crochets on the opposite side of the strap; i.e. in the chain-stitch row which was worked for the strap:
Fasten the strand with 1 double crochet in the first chain stitch worked after the corner, work 1 double crochet in each of the 60 chain stitches on the strap, 3 double crochets around the chain stitch in corner, continue with 1 double crochet in each stitch as far as the next corner, work 3 double crochets around the chain stitch in corner, finish with 1 slip stitch in the first double crochet on the round. Cut and fasten strand well. Repeat around the other strap.

Diagram

symbols = Start here - this chain-stitch ring (= 4 chain stitches + 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch) is described in text. Continue with symbol over point on circle and work towards the left
symbols = 1 chain stitch
symbols = 6 chain stitches
symbols = 1 double crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
symbols = 1 treble crochet around chain stitch/chain-space
symbols = Round begins with 3 chain stitches (replaces first treble crochet on round) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = Round begins with 3 chain stitches (replaces last treble crochet on round) and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = Round begins with 1 chain stitch (does not replace first double crochet on round)
symbols = Round ends with 1 double crochet around first chain-space on round
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 199-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Doris wrote:

Ich möchte den Rand und die Henkel in einer anderen Farbe häkeln, wieviel Garn brauche ich dafür? Gesamt sind 250g angegeben. Reichen 200g für den Granny Square und 50g für Rand und Henkel?

18.09.2022 - 16:34

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Doris, da wir die Tasche einfarbig gehäkelt haben, haben wir leider nur die Garnmenge für eine Farbe, gerne kann Ihnen aber Ihr DROPS Händler damit helfen, auch per Telefon oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

19.09.2022 kl. 10:15

country flag Elke wrote:

Ich habe dieses Einkaufsnetz bestimmt schon 30x gehäkelt und verschenkt. Kam immer gut an und ist sehr beliebt. Ich mache die Träger aber deutlich länger mit 90 Maschen, um es Bequem über der Schulter zu tragen.

24.04.2022 - 14:37

country flag Ingrid wrote:

Danke für die gute Beschreibung, geholfen haben mir auch die Videos. Das Netz war schnell gemacht und ich werde sicherlich noch mehrere häkeln!

13.07.2021 - 22:00

country flag Claudette Paquet wrote:

Est ce possible d'avoir cette information en français

18.03.2021 - 21:11

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Paquet, tous nos modèles sont disponibles en français, cliquez sur le menu déroulant sous la photo pour changer la langue. Bon crochet!

19.03.2021 kl. 07:45

country flag Edyta wrote:

Jestem zachwycona wzorem i czytelnym opisem. Szkoda, że tak późno odkryłam tą stronę. Jestem fanką Waszych wzorów.🙂

30.11.2020 - 10:43

country flag Line wrote:

Jeg hekler vist strammere enn heklefastheten så jeg må derfor hekle flere omg på firkanten enn det står i mønstret for å oppnå 74x74cm. Derfor bruker jeg også mer garn enn oppgitt og lurer på ca hvor mye garn jeg trenger til kant og stropper?

26.08.2020 - 07:20

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Line, det ved jeg desværre ikke.... mon ikke du skal bruge et helt nøgle (selv om du hækler strammere...) :)

28.08.2020 kl. 15:54

country flag Bina wrote:

In der Häkelinformation für Reihen mit festen Maschen steht folgendes: "Die Runde endet mit 1 Kettmasche in die erste feste Masche der Runde." Am Diagramm wird aber folgendes beschrieben zu der Reihe mit fM: "Die Runde endet mit 1 festen Masche um den ersten Luftmaschenbogen der Runde" Ich nehme an, dass die Runde mit 1 fM um den ersten Lfm-Bogen endet, oder? Evtl. sollte man den falschen Satz noch anpassen. Ansonsten eine tolle Anleitung!

23.07.2020 - 14:24

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Bina, die Häkelinformation gilt für den Rand und die Träger (in dem Absatz wird auch auf die Häkelinformation hingewiesen), das Diagramm gilt für das eigentliche Netz (= Granny Square). Daher sind beide Angaben zum Abschluss der Runde richtig. Viel Spaß beim Weiterhäkeln!

24.07.2020 kl. 10:24

country flag Hannah wrote:

I was at first having confusions on the edge part,til I found a tutorial in youtube. It's a great help for me and I was happy having my 1st market bag output.

22.06.2020 - 08:59

country flag Lukrecja wrote:

Obawiam się, że macie problemy z polską terminologią. W polskiej terminologii szydełkowej istnieje od wieków półsłupek. Oczko ścisłe to co innego: oczko ścisłe zamykające.

13.05.2020 - 19:35

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Lukrecjo! Bardzo dziękujemy za twój komentarz. W polskiej terminologii stosuje się 2 wersje, musieliśmy się na którąś zdecydować. Mamy nadzieję, że to nie przeszkodzi w pracy nad naszymi wzorami, do większości oprócz opisu jest również dostępny schemat. A propos, czy już zagłosowałaś na nową kolekcję DROPS Jesień/Zima, serdecznie zapraszamy!

05.06.2020 kl. 17:20

country flag Véronique wrote:

Simplement MERCI J'ai trouvé dans mon placard 2 cakes camaléon saumon orange rose et violet taille 3.5, j'ai pu m'occuper pendant mon confinement au Covid 19, ce sac de courses est magnifique, parfait, et les explications aussi.

10.04.2020 - 15:43

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