DROPS / 200 / 3

Bee Stripes by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with stripes in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down with raglan. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no sk-029
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 96-104-114-120-130-138 cm = 38 3/4”-41”-45”-47 1/4”-51 1/4”-54 1/4”
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"

All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS SKY from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
50-100-100-100-150-150 g color 05, black
50-100-100-100-150-150 g color 04, grey
50-100-100-100-150-150 g color 16, lemon
50-100-100-100-150-150 g color 12, jeans blue
50-100-100-100-150-150 g color 17, curry

KNITTING GAUGE:
19 stitches in width and 25 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US H/8.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US H/8: length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for stockinette stitch
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6 for rib.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: length 40 cm = 16” and 60 cm = 24” or 80 cm = 32” for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size

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Colour combinations shown are:
A) DROPS Sky 14, 13, 18, 12, 01.
B) DROPS Sky 05, 08, 02, 14, 01.
C) DROPS Sky 03, 19, 01, 02, 18.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

74% Alpaca, 18% Polyamide, 8% Wool
from 8.40 $ /50g
DROPS Sky uni colour DROPS Sky uni colour 8.40 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Sky mix DROPS Sky mix 8.40 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 96 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 4) = 24.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 24th stitch. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

STRIPES:
Work 3 cm = 1 1/8” with black after the rib. Then work stripes of 10½-10½-11-11½-12-13 cm = 4 1/8”-4 1/8”-4 3/8”-4 1/2”-4 3/4”-5 1/8” in the following order: grey, lemon, jeans blue and curry. When the stripes are finished continue with black.

RAGLAN:
Increase to raglan every 2nd round as follows: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker sits in middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. Yarn overs are knitted twisted on next round to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch, knit 2 (marker thread sits in between these 2 stitches), knit 2 together.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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SWEATER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle from the neck down to the armholes. Then you divide for body and sleeves, which are finished separately. The body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with circular needle; change to double pointed needles when enough stitches have been decreased.
SWEATER:
Cast on 96-104-108-112-116-120 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and black. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 3 cm = 1 1/8”. Change to circular needle size 5 mm = US H/8 and knit 1 round where you decrease 4-2-4-4-4-4 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE TIP = 92-102-104-108-112-116 stitches.
Work 1 round stockinette stitch where you insert markers in the piece for raglan as follows: Insert the first marker at the beginning of the round, 2nd marker after the next 10 stitches, 3rd marker after the next 36-41-42-44-46-48 stitches and 4th marker after the next 10 stitches. There are now 4 markers in the piece (10 stitches on each sleeve and 36-41-42-44-46-48 on front and back pieces).
Continue with stockinette stitch, STRIPES and increase to RAGLAN – see descriptions above, at each marker. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Increase to raglan every 2nd round a total of 24-25-28-30-33-35 times = 284-302-328-348-376-396 stitches on round. Work until the piece measures 20-21-23-25-27-29 cm = 8”-8 1/4”-9”-9 3/4”-10 5/8”-1 3/8” from the rib. Now divide the piece as follows from the beginning of the round (= by first marker): Place the first 58-60-66-70-76-80 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches on the needle and work 84-91-98-104-112-118 stitches (= front piece), place the next 58-60-66-70-76-80 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches on the needle and work the next 84-91-98-104-112-118 stitches to end of round (= back piece) = 184-198-216-228-248-264 stitches on round. So that the transition between stripes does not show, work on and start the round from the middle of the new stitches cast on at the beginning of the round. Continue with stripes and stockinette stitch until the stripes are finished; then work the rest of the piece in black. When the piece measures 23-24-24-24-24-24 cm = 9”-9 1/2”-9 1/2”-9 1/2”-9 1/2”-9 1/2” from the division under the sleeves, work 1 round stockinette stitch where you increase 4-6-4-4-4-4 stitches evenly spaced = 188-204-220-232-252-268 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm = US 6 and work rib with knit 2 /purl 2 until the rib measures 5 cm = 2”. Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4" from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 58-60-66-70-76-80 stitches from the one thread on short circular needle size 5 mm = US H/8 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches cast on under the sleeve = 66-68-76-80-88-94 stitches. So that the transition between stripes does not show, work on and start the round from the middle of the new stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of these new stitches. Continue with stripes and stockinette stitch. When the piece measures 2-2-2-2-3-2 cm = 3/4”-3/4”-3/4”-3/4”-1 1/8”-3/4” from the division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 3½-3½-2½-2-1½-1½ cm = 1 1/4”-1 1/4”-1”-3/4”-1/2”-1/2” a total of 11-11-14-15-18-20 times = 44-46-48-50-52-54 stitches. NOTE! When the stripes are finished continue with black to finished length.
Work until the piece measures 38-37-36-34-32-31 cm = 15”-14 1/2”-14 1/4”-13 3/8”-12 1/2”-12 1/4” from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). Work 1 round stockinette stitch where you increase 4-6-4-6-4-6 stitches evenly spaced = 48-52-52-56-56-60 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm = US 6 and work rib with knit 2/purl 2 until the rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2”. Loosely bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 42-41-40-38-36-35 cm = 16 1/2”-16 1/8”-15 3/4”-15”-14 1/4”-13 3/4” from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 200-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (40)

Annelies Benneker 14.10.2020 - 07:44:

Hallo, allereerst mijn complimenten voor uw site en patronen. In het patroon staat bij onderdeel TRUI: brei tot het werk 21 cm meet vanaf de opzetrand. Bedoelt u inclusief de halsboord? Dit lijkt mij nl. nogal kort en wordt te krap rond de oksel. Of moet ik meten na de halsboord? Kan ik z.n. verlengen, en hoe doe ik dat?

DROPS Design 25.10.2020 kl. 19:58:

Dag Annelies,

Dit is inderdaad inclusief halsboord. Als je de lengte tot de oksel groter wilt maken moet je af en toe een naald extra breien. Dus tussen de naalden met meerderingen door, anders loopt de raglanlijn niet mooi recht door.

Stine Arnesen 27.09.2020 - 21:47:

Hei! Er det rett at det skal felles av masker etter vrangborden i halsen? Skal det ikke økes?

DROPS Design 28.09.2020 kl. 07:46:

Hei Stine, De ekstra maskene i halsen er for å hindre at halsen blir stram. Disse er felt når man er ferdig med vrangborden. God fornøyelse!

Alex Walker 17.07.2020 - 02:10:

Hi, I love the look of this sweater but it's too big for me across the chest (I'm 80 cm across the chest). Are you able to provide a pattern for a smaller size with the finished bust measurement 88 cm rather than 96cm. If not, would you suggest that I just use smaller needles for a smaller finished sweater? thank you

DROPS Design 17.07.2020 kl. 08:38:

Dear Mrs Walker, we are unfortunately not able to adjust every pattern to every individual request. You are welcome to contact your DROPS store or maybe look for another pattern with the measurements you rather get to inspire you. Happy knitting!

Ane Marie Ambt Kofod 11.07.2020 - 00:33:

Jeg skal strikke den i str M eller L i ensfarvet. Hvor meget garn går der?

DROPS Design 13.07.2020 kl. 10:21:

Hei Ane Marie. Det har vi ingen nøyaktig oversikt over, men tipper ca 300-350 gram. mvh DROPS design

Charlotte 09.07.2020 - 15:54:

Hvis man ønsker at strikke den ensfarvet i xxl, hvor meget garn går der så til?

DROPS Design 13.07.2020 kl. 09:25:

Hei Charlotte. Det har vi ingen nøyaktig oversikt over, men tippe ca 400 gram. mvh DROPS design

Anita 02.07.2020 - 11:10:

Bonjour Le modèle ( taille S) du Pull DROPS 200-3 plait beaucoup à ma fille mais pas avec un col rond. Existe-il un modèle similaire se tricotant de haut en bas avec col V ? Un grand merci et bravo pour tous vos modèles et la laine pas chère et de qualité

DROPS Design 02.07.2020 kl. 13:51:

Bonjour Anita, vous trouverez ici tous nos modèles avec une encolure-V, n'hésitez pas à ajouter des filtres si besoin. Bon tricot!

Lina 03.04.2020 - 13:53:

"Når arbeidet måler 23-24-24-24-24-24 cm fra delingen under ermet, strikkes det 1 omgang glattstrikk der det økes 4" Vil det si at skal skje i den fjerde stripe?Jeg strikker str. S.

DROPS Design 17.04.2020 kl. 11:35:

Hei Lina. Det spiller ingen rolle i hvilken stripe det skjer i, men det skal økes 23 cm etter delingen under ermet. mvh DROPS design

Anne Kathrine Vestergaard 02.04.2020 - 19:06:

Hej! Jeg strikker str. M. Når jeg har taget ud til raglan 25 gange er arbejdet 18 cm fra efter ribben. Skal jeg bare fortsætte i glatstrik til jeg når til 21 cm efter ribben (arbejdet skal deles til ærmer, ryg- og forstykke efter 21 cm fra ribben)? Venligst Anne Kathrine

DROPS Design 16.04.2020 kl. 08:52:

Hej Anne Ja det stämmer, du stickar bara glatstrik til du når 21 cm. Mvh DROPS Design

Lina 17.03.2020 - 21:17:

Hei, Hvor mye garn trenger jeg for å strikke str.s. hvor mange nøster av hver farge?

DROPS Design 18.03.2020 kl. 08:08:

Hei Lina, Du trenger 1 nøste av hver farge (50g) for størrelse S. God fornøyelse!

Monique Larochelle 09.02.2020 - 03:20:

Bonjour, Est-ce que le fil Drops Puna conviendrait pour ce genre de chandail ? Merci à l'avance.

DROPS Design 10.02.2020 kl. 08:47:

Bonjour Mme Larochelle, dans la mesure ou DROPS Puna et DROPS Sky appartiennent toutes deux au même groupe B de nos fils, elles sont interchangeables, rappelez-vous juste que leur texture étant différente, le rendu sera également différent. Utilisez notre convertisseur (ou le lien précédent) pour calculer la quantité nécessaire en Puna. Bon tricot!

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