DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 3.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Seaside Life

Knitted bag in DROPS Bomull-Lin or DROPS Paris. The piece is worked in the round with lace pattern.

DROPS 200-4
DROPS Design: Pattern no l-150
Yarn group C or A + A

Measurements: Circumference: approx. 80 cm = 31½". Height (without straps): approx. 32 cm = 12½".

DROPS BOMULL-LIN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200 g color 03, light beige
50 g color 05, brown
Or use:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200 g color 26, beige
50 g color 44, brown

17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
Approx. 16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with lace pattern = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: length 60 or 80 cm = 24" or 32".
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Bomull-Lin
DROPS Bomull-Lin
53% Cotton, 47% Linen
from 3.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.



RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows.

ROUND 1: * 1 yarn over, knit 2 together *, work from *-*.
ROUND 2: Knit.
Repeat rounds 1 and 2.

Work as far as 1 stitch before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. Repeat on the other side. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.




The piece is worked in the round with circular needle.

Cast on 116 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 and light beige Bomull-Lin or beige Paris. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round and 1 marker thread after 58 stitches (= 1 marker thread in each side). Work stockinette stitch in the round at the same time as on the first round increasing 1 stitch on each side of the marker threads - read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 4th round a total of 3 times = 128 stitches. When all the increases are finished and you have worked 12 rounds stockinette stitch, work LACE PATTERN – read description above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Continue in the round with lace pattern until the piece measures 29 cm = 11⅜". Now work an edge in GARTER STITCH - read description above, as follows:
Work 4 ridges, AT THE SAME TIME on round 3 (= a knitted round) make 4 holes on the round to thread the strap through: * Knit 15, knit the next 2 stitches together and make 1 yarn over, knit 30, knit 2 together and make 1 yarn over, knit 15 *, work from *-* 1 more time on the round (= 4 holes). Purl 1 round. Then work 2 more ridges. Bind off. Make sure that the bind-off edge is not tight; you can use a size larger needle if necessary.

Cast on 224 stitches with brown Bomull-Lin or brown Paris. Work 1 ridge. Bind off. Make sure that the bind-off edge is not tight; you can use a size larger needle if necessary.
Lay the bag in front of you so that there are 2 layers with 2 and 2 holes on top of each other. Thread the strap from you through 2 of the holes so that it comes out at the other side of the bag. Pull the strap a little so that you can thread it through the other 2 holes, from the back towards you. Tie the 2 ends together.

Sew the bottom of the bag together with grafting stitches. Cut and fasten the strand well.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Seaside Life

@ramoka_strikk, Norway

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 200-4

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Comments / Questions (15)

country flag Rene Gould wrote:

The four holes that are made for the strap I can’t understand how you bring these holes together because I did the holes at the beginning of the pattern as it says an then at the top ene I did another 4holes on each side but you can’t put the bottom holes with the top hole as it work can you please explain about where an how you make your holes cos mine are working right now thank you

13.02.2023 - 19:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Gould, the 4 holes should be worked on the same round , starting the round on one side of bag work as follows: *knit 15, K2 tog, YO, knit 30, K2 tog, YO, knit 15*, repeat from *-* one more time to the end of the round - there are a total of 4 holes on this round. Happy knitting!

14.02.2023 - 13:39

country flag Bain wrote:

Merci pour vos explications . Je n'avais vu que la vidéo du grafting avec les mailles encore sur les aiguilles et non sur des mailles rabattues .

22.04.2022 - 10:23

country flag Blain wrote:

Bonjour, j' ai deux questions pour ce modèle. faut il tricoter une maille torse sur le jeté ou comme le fil se présente le tour suivant ? Et enfin je vois qu\'il faut coudre le fond du sac en grafting mais je regarde les vidéos mais elles montrent que les mailles doivent êtres sur les aiguilles ce qui n\'est pas le cas Je ne comprends pas cette méthode . Merci

21.04.2022 - 19:34

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Blain, lorsque vous augmentez les 4 mailles par tour, les jetés se tricotent torse (cf AUGMENTATIONS, mais lorsque vous tricotez le point ajouré ensuite, les jetés se tricotent normalement. Vous pouvez utiliser cette vidéo pour l'assemblage du fond. Bon tricot!

22.04.2022 - 07:37

country flag Cecilia wrote:

Muchísimas gracias por este patrón. No lo he hecho igual. He modificado el punto y lo he hecho con punto de arroz. También le he puesto forro. Ha quedado genial

24.06.2021 - 13:53

country flag Monica wrote:

Non mi è chiaro come inserire la tracolla...

25.05.2020 - 10:18

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Monica. Deve far passare una estremità della tracolla attraverso due fori coincidenti (uno sul davanti e uno sul dietro della borsa), poi passa la stessa estremità attraverso gli altri due fori , sull'altro lato della borsa. Annoda poi le estremità della tracolla. Buon lavoro!

25.05.2020 - 12:32

country flag Suzy wrote:

Bonjour, 32 cm, la hauteur total du sac je trouve que c'est trop court, étant donné que vous donnez 200grs de laine. J'ai utilisé que 3 pelotes. Merci

26.07.2019 - 16:21

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Suzy! Cela peut dependre de la tension de votre ouvrage. Si vous voulez avoir un sac plus long, continuez a la hauteur souhaitee. Bon tricot!

26.07.2019 - 23:47

country flag Charlotte wrote:

I jeres udtagningstips står der at man skal slå om, strikke to ret og slå om igen. Næste runde strikker man så drejet ret så der ikke kommer hul... Mit problem er at det skulle være glat strik, så to runder i træk kan da ikke være ret - og hvis jeg kun strikker det drejede ret i ret og resten af runden i vrang kan det vel ses?

13.07.2019 - 17:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Charlotte, da strikker du drejet vrang, så det bliver ret fra retsiden. God fornøjelse!

30.09.2019 - 08:35

country flag Sharron wrote:

I love the seaside life pattern but don't know how to download or print it off my phone or from Facebook.

13.07.2019 - 07:51

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sharron, you can only print our patterns, but choosing a virtual printer may allow you to save them as a .PDF file. Happy knitting!

15.07.2019 - 11:53

country flag Sylvie wrote:

Bonjour, Avez vous le pull en patron ? je trouve le dos magnifique

21.03.2019 - 11:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvie, le haut porté par le modèle sur la photo n'est pas un modèle tricoté, désolée. Bon tricot!

21.03.2019 - 11:45

country flag Bogusia wrote:

Tu nie chodzi o rezultat. Chodzi o to, że przede wszystkim osoby niedoświadczone wprowadzacie w błąd używając niewłaściwych określeń. Bo chociaż efekt jest ten sam to to, co jest widoczne na filmie nie jest graftingiem.

18.02.2019 - 08:24

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj ponownie Bogusiu, bardzo dziękujemy za twoje uwagi. Mam nadzieję, że jak tylko torba będzie gotowa zobaczymy ją na DROPS Workshop na naszym facebooku. Pozdrawiamy!

18.02.2019 - 08:33