DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.45$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 192-12
DROPS design: Pattern ai-147
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S/M – M/L
Head circumference: 54/56 – 56/58 cm = 21 1/4”/22” – 22”/22 3/4”
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
50-100 g color 10, fog

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 24 rows vertically with pattern A.1 = 10 x 10 cm = 4” x 4”.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm = US 8, length 40 cm = 16”.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm = 4” switch to smaller needles.
Categories:
Women Accessories Hats Beanies
Keywords:
rib

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.45$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3 and illustration A.4.
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side!

DECREASE TIP:
Work until 1 stitch remain before marker thread, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased). Repeat at each of the remaining marker threads = 6 stitches decreased on round.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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HAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
First work piece back and forth on circular needle in 2 parts from mid back, then sew the 2 parts together mid back and plait parts together mid front, then pick up stitches around the edge and then work in the round and decrease for hat. Switch to double pointed needles when needed.

HAT:
Work first part as follows:
Cast on 19 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 with Air. Work pattern back and forth as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 (= 17 stitches), 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until piece measures 21-22 cm = 8 1/4”-8 3/4”, adjust so that next row is worked from right side. Turn and work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work the first 8 stitches in A.2 from right side before slipping these 9 stitches on a stitch holder. Work the remaining 9 stitches in A.2 (= 1 stitch decreased), 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 9 stitches. Work last row in A.2 over the 9 stitches on needle. Continue back and forth with pattern as before over the 9 stitches on needle until piece measures 11 cm = 4 3/8” from division (approx. 33-34 cm = 13”-13 3/8” from cast-on edge) - adjust so that next row is worked from right side. Slip stitches on a stitch holder. This part is marked with a black star in illustration A.4.
Slip stitches from the other stitch holder back on needle = 9 stitches. Begin from wrong side and work last row in A.2, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue pattern back and forth until piece measures 11 cm = 4 3/8” (approx. 33-34 cm = 13”-13 3/8” from cast-on edge) - adjust so that next row is worked from right side. Slip stitches on a stitch holder. This part is marked with a white star in illustration A.4.
Work second part as follows:
Cast on 19 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm = US 8 with Air. Work pattern back and forth as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, A.1 (= 17 stitches), 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until piece measures 33-34 cm = 13”-13 3/8”, adjust so that next row is worked from right side. Cut the yarn.

ASSEMBLY AND PLAITING:
Sew together the 2 cast-on edges mid back. Slip stitches from the different parts worked on circular needle as follows: Slip the first 9 stitches from first part (= white star) on needle, then slip the next 9 stitches from first part (= black star) on needle, place the 19 stitches on the second part over the first 9 stitches (white star) and under the next 9 stitches (= black star) and slip stitches on to needle. Parts cross mid front as shown in A.4.

TOP OF HAT:
Now work in the round from right side on part with white star as follows: Knit the first 8 stitches, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased in transition between part with white and black star), knit the next 7 stitches, knit the next 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased in transition between part with black star and next part), knit the next 3 stitches together (= 2 stitches decreased), knit the next 15 stitches. There are now 33 stitches on needle and pattern fits every other knit stitch and every other stitch in garter stitch. Now pick up 24-26 stitches inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch along the first part until seam mid back, then pick up 25-27 stitches the same way from seam mid back and until beginning of round = 82-86 stitches.
Continue in the round with pattern A.3, and adjust so that pattern fits the entire round and over stitches on parts plaited mid front. When piece measures 5-6 cm = 2”-2 3/8” from where stitches were picked up, insert 6 marker threads in piece as follows: Insert first marker thread after 13-15 stitches (i.e. before a knit stitch), then insert the next 4 marker threads after 14 stitches, 13-15 stitches now remain on round after last marker thread and there are 6 marker threads in piece, before 1 knit stitch. On next round, decrease 1 stitch at every marker thread – read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this every other round 10 times in total = 22-26 stitches. Knit stitches together 2 by 2 = 11-13 stitches. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten tog and fasten. Hat measures approx. 24-25 cm = 9 1/2”-9 3/4”.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = shows how parts are plaited - see explanation in pattern
symbols = shows how parts are plaited - see explanation in patter
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (25)

country flag Britta wrote:

Ich habe eine Frage zu den Abnahmen bei der Mützenspitze. Wenn ich eine linke und eine rechte Masche zusammenstricke, komme ich in der nächsten Runde mit dem Muster A3 nicht mehr zurecht.

15.12.2023 - 08:15

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Britta, nach jeden Abnahmen stricken Sie die Maschen im Muster wie zuvor so lange wie möglich ist, dh das Muster soll in der Höhe fortsetzen aber natürlich bei jeder Markierung passt es nicht immer in der Runde (nur in jeder 2. Abnahmen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

15.12.2023 - 08:36

country flag Britta wrote:

Ich habe eine Frage zu den Abnahmen. Wenn ich eine linke und eine rechte Masche zusammenstricke, komme ich in der nächsten Runde mit dem Muster A3 nicht mehr zurecht.

13.12.2023 - 09:35

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Britta, die Abnahme wird bei der 1. Reihe in A.2 gestrickt, dann stricken Sie nur die 9 ersten Maschen vom Diagram bis die Arbeit 11 cm nach der Verteilung misst. Dann stricken Sie die andere Hälfte. In diesem Video zeigen wir, wie die beiden Hälfte dann zusammen genäht/gestrickt werden. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

13.12.2023 - 16:16

country flag Luisa wrote:

Buongiorno, grazie per la risposta ma forse non mi sono spiegata bene. Ë ovvio, infatti che il secondo ferro sia il rovescio. Infatti il dubbio era se, essendo il secondo ferro sempre rovescio, le istruzioni vanno prese solo nell’ parte del rovescio o se, invece devo intendere: lavora il rovescio sul punto dritto e vice versa?

22.01.2023 - 12:43

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Luisa, deve lavorare come indicato: per quanto riguarda il quadratino bianco, se sta lavorando sul diritto del lavoro lavorerà 1 maglia a diritto, se sta lavorando sul rovescio del lavoro lavorerà 1 maglia rovescio. Stessa cosa per il quadratino con la X: se sta lavorando sul diritto del lavoro lavorerà 1 maglia a rovescio, se sta lavorando sul rovescio del lavoro lavorerà 1 maglia diritto. Buon lavoro!

23.01.2023 - 22:00

country flag Luisa wrote:

Buongiorno non mi é chiaro A1: se sono 2 Ferri il primo sarà sempre RS, mentre il secondo ferro sarà sempre WR. Quindi com’é possibile nel secondo ferro “ purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side”?

20.01.2023 - 13:52

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Luisa, i diagrammi mostrano tutti i ferri del lavoro, quindi il 2° ferro di A.1 va lavorato dal rovescio del lavoro. Buon lavoro!

21.01.2023 - 22:19

country flag Paola wrote:

Non sono riuscita a spiegarmi... difficile fare prosegui un motivo con 1diritto ed un rovescio e contestualmente fare diminuzioni di una maglia...fa lo stesso... farò due prove con motivo o maglia rasata. grazie lo stesso

10.01.2023 - 09:05

country flag Paola wrote:

Mi riferisco alla cima del cappello...Quando il lavoro misura 5-6 cm da quando sono state riprese le maglie, inserire 6 segnapunti nel lavoro come segue: Inserire il 1° segnapunti dopo 13-15 maglie (cioè prima di una maglia a diritto), poi inserire i 4 segnapunti successivi dopo 14 maglie, ora rimangono 13-15 maglie sul giro dopo l’ultimo segnapunti e ci sono 6 segnapunti nel lavoro, prima di 1 maglia diritto. Sul giro successivo, diminuire 1 maglia all’altezza di ogni segnapunti

09.01.2023 - 21:41

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Paola, se preferisce può lavorare le diminuzioni sul 1° ferro di A.3. Buon lavoro!

09.01.2023 - 22:58

country flag Paola wrote:

Forse secondo voi conviene per caso finire con maglia rasata piuttosto che vedere motivo sfalsato?

09.01.2023 - 18:46

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Paola, a quale parte sta facendo riferimento? Buon lavoro!

09.01.2023 - 20:21

country flag Paola wrote:

Scusate volevo dire che ho capito che le diminuzioni si fanno sul ferro 1 del diagramma A3...

09.01.2023 - 18:34

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Paola, a quale diminuzioni fa riferimento? Buon lavoro!

09.01.2023 - 20:22

country flag Paola wrote:

Salve, sono al punto delle diminuzioni x la cima del cappello. le diminuzioni si fanno sul 2 ferro di A3 se ho capito bene...chiedo come può continuare il motivo con un dritto e un rovescio facendo le diminuzioni...il motivo non salta? grazie

09.01.2023 - 18:29

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Paola, a quale diminuzioni fa riferimento? Buon lavoro!

09.01.2023 - 20:22

country flag Barbara Bailey wrote:

I need to use straight needles. Would that work out for this design? Thanks!

01.10.2022 - 18:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Barbara, you can substitute the circular needles for straight needles, but you need to also use double-pointed needles for the part worked in the round. Happy knitting!

03.10.2022 - 00:59