DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g

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Clover

Knitted jumper for children in DROPS Air or DROPS Paris. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern and raglan. Sizes 2-12 years.

DROPS Children 34-4
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-014-bn
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
2 – 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Sizes equivalent to approx. height of child in cm:
92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
150-150-200-200-200-250 g colour 20, rose

Or use:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-400-400-400-500 g colour 01, apricot

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: length 40 cm and 60 or 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4.5 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 MM: length 40 and 60 cm or 80 cm for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 54 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 6) = 9.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after each 9th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
When decreasing, knit together each 8th and 9th stitch (in this example).

MOSS STITCH:
ROUND 1: * Knit 1, Purl 1 *, work from *-*.
ROUND 2: Knit over purl and purl over knit. Repeat round 2 onwards.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the 2 knitted stitches in each transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on the round). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over.
On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
Then work the new stitches in moss stitch on the sleeves and stocking stitch on the front and back pieces.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread, purl 3 together. In this way, 3 stitches become 1 stitch; then move the marker thread to the stitch before this stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. After the yoke the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

YOKE
Cast on 54-54-58-62-64-68 stitches with circular needle size 4.5 mm and Air or Paris. Knit 1 round. Then work rib in the round (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 3 cm. Knit 1 round where you increase 6-6-6-6-8-16 stitches evenly – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 60-60-64-68-72-84 stitches. Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm.
Insert 1 marker here - THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Now insert 4 marker threads (without working the stitches) as follows: Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= in transition between sleeve and back piece), 1 marker thread after 21-21-23-25-25-31 stitches (= back piece), 1 marker thread after 9-9-9-9-11-11 more stitches (= sleeve), 1 marker thread after 21-21-23-25-25-31 more stitches (= front piece). There are 9-9-9-9-11-11 stitches left to the first marker thread (= sleeve).

The next round is worked as follows:
The round starts at the first marker thread, in the transition between sleeve and back piece. Knit 1, make 1 yarn over, work 19-19-21-23-23-29 stitches in stocking stitch (= back piece), 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over, work 7-7-7-7-9-9 stitches in MOSS STITCH – see description above (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over, work 1-1-2-3-3-6 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.1 (= 17 stitches = front piece), 1-1-2-3-3-6 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over, work 7-7-7-7-9-9 stitches in moss stitch (= sleeve), 1 yarn over and knit 1. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
The first increase to RAGLAN – read description above, is now finished (= 8 stitches increased on the round). Continue with this pattern and increase to raglan every 2nd round a total of 13-14-15-16-17-17 times (including the first increase described above). NOTE: When A.1 has been completed in height, work A.2 (= 21 stitches) over A.1. Repeat A.2 in height to finished length.
After the last increase to raglan there are 168-176-188-200-212-224 stitches on the needle. Continue with pattern as before, but without increasing, until the piece measures 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm from the marker at the beginning of the yoke.
The next round is worked in pattern and stocking stitch as before, but start the round 1 stitch earlier (before the 2 stitches in stocking stitch between sleeve and back piece). Work stocking stitch over 49-51-55-59-61-67 stitches (= back piece), place the next 33-35-37-39-43-43 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 4-4-4-6-6-6 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), continue with stocking stitch and pattern over the next 53-55-59-63-65-71 stitches (= front piece), place the next 33-35-37-39-43-43 stitches on a thread (= the other sleeve), cast on 4-4-4-6-6-6 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
There are now 110-114-122-134-138-150 stitches on the needle. Continue with stocking stitch and pattern A.2 in the round as before. When the piece measures 16-19-22-25-28-31 cm from the division knit 1 round where you increase 10-12-14-16-18-20 stitches evenly on round = 120-126-136-150-156-170 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work rib (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 4 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – to avoid the cast-off edge being tight, you can cast off with a needle size 5.5 mm. Cut and fasten the strand.

SLEEVE:
Place the stitches from the thread on one side of the piece onto short circular needle/double pointed needle size 5.5 mm (= 33-35-37-39-43-43 stitches). Knit up 1 stitch in each of the 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 37-39-41-45-49-49 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of these 4-4-4-6-6-6 stitches and start the round here. Work moss stitch. When the piece measures 2 cm from the division decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2½-3-3½-4-4½-5½ cm a total of 6-6-7-7-7-7 times = 25-27-27-31-35-35 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 18-22-26-30-34-38 cm from the division. Knit 1 round where you increase 3-3-3-3-3-3 stitches in all sizes = 28-30-30-34-38-38 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm and work rib (knit 1 / purl 1) for 4 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – to avoid the cast-off edge being tight, you can cast off with a needle size 5.5 mm. Cut and fasten the strand.

Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 23.10.2020
Correction:
SLEEVE:
... Knit 1 round where you increase 3-3-3-3-3-3 stitches in all sizes = 28-30-30-34-38-38 stitches...

Diagram

	= knit
	= purl
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
	= KNIT 5 STITCHES TOGETHER AS FOLLOWS: Knit 5, pass them back to the left needle, pass the next outermost stitch over the outermost stitch so that it lies around this stitch, repeat until all 4 stitches have been passed over (= 4 stitches decreased), move the last knitted stitch back onto the right needle.
	= KNIT 5 STITCHES TWISTED TOGETHER AS FOLLOWS: Knit 5, pass the next to last stitch over the last stitch so that it lies around this stitch, repeat until all 4 stitches have been passed over (= 4 stitches decreased).

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

From the #dropsfan gallery

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Clover

Emma Hassan, France

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Sofia, Finland

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Emma Hassan, France

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Anne, France

Minnas Clover

Tina, Germany

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Seija, Finland

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Salleriini, Finland

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Karen, Denmark

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Katrine, Norway

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Sofia, Finland

Comments / Questions (64)

Danypop wrote:

Bonsoir,nEffectivement, je pense qu’il s’agit de ces 4 mailles merci beaucoup. \\\\\\r\\nJe vais détricoter et recommencer.\\r\\nPensez vous que je peux réutiliser la laine détricotée , c’est la 1ére fois que j’utilise la laine drops air. J’espère avoir assez de laine…Merci encore pour votre aide très rapide ; bonne soirée à vous. Danypop

13.11.2024 - 19:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Danypop, vous pouvez tout à fait réutiliser la laine détricoter, pensez juste bien à toujours respecter la même tension pour éviter toute différence sur la partie détricotée/retricotée et le reste de l'ouvrage. Votre magasin aura sans doute une astuce pour vous qu'il partagera volontiers même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

14.11.2024 - 09:47

Bonjour, Pull pour ma petit fille taille 9/10 ans J’ai un problème avec les augmentations de l’empiécement : Au départ j’ai 64 mailles Après augmentations après les côtes j’ai 72 mailles Puis 17 fois 8 augmentations =136 +72 = 208 mailles au lieu de 212 comme vous l’indiquez. Je suis un peu perdue et ne sais où est mon erreur. Pourriez vous s’il vous plaît, m’aider. Merci beaucoup par avance. Danypop

13.11.2024 - 14:06

Bonjour Mme Danypop, avez-vous bien augmenté aussi dans A.1? Au tout premier tour de A.1, on doit augmenter 4 mailes, ce pourrait-il qu'il s'agisse des 4 mailles qui vous manque dans votre calcul?

13.11.2024 - 17:16

Heike wrote:

Hallo, muss bei A1 in der 1. Runde 2 li.,1 re.,1U,3 re. 1U,5re.,1U,3 re.,1U,1 re.,2 i. gearbeitet werden? In der 3. Runde sind bei ir dann 5 Ma zuviel, wenn ich die U u. Ma. in der 2. Runde wie beschrieben abstricke und in der 3. Runde 8 neue U und 7 re. Ma. zwischen den jeweils 5 zus.gestr. Ma. arbeite. Wo ist der Fehler??

06.11.2024 - 17:38

Liebe Heike, ja genauso wird die 1. Reihe A.1 gestrickt; es sind dann so 21 M in A.1, bei der 3. Reihe wird man 8 Umschläge stricken und 2 x 4 Maschen abnehmen (mit 5 M links/links verschränkt zusammen), so bei der 3. Reihe stricken Sie: 2 Maschen links, 5 Maschen rechts Zusammen, (1 Umschlag, 1 M re) x 7, 1 Umschlag, 5 Maschen rechts verschränkt zusammen, 2 M links =21 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

07.11.2024 - 08:39

Lynne wrote:

Wait...I believe I have figured it out! I think what confused me was the placement on the chart of the 2 purl stitches at the ends of the center pattern. In the 2nd row I was trying to put them before the ones in the first row, not realizing that was where the increases from row one were. It seems to be working out now.

26.10.2024 - 19:49

I am confused about the pattern on the front of this sweater. The chart includes some yarn overs which are knitted the next round, making more increased stitches than what are accounted for in the chart or the pattern. Please explain how this is taken care of. Thank you.

26.10.2024 - 02:57

Dear Lynne, in the charts you have 1 row in both A.1 and A.2 which has 8 yarn overs (the white ovals). However, on both sides of these yarn overs you are decreasing stitches (diagonal lines): you knit 5 stitches, normal or twisted (depending on the orientation of the line), together on each side of the yarn overs' section. So, you decrease 4 and 4 stitches (8 in total). Therefore, 8 increases - 8 decreases = 0, so the total number of stitches in the chart/pattern remains the same. For more information, read the diagram symbols' explanations. Happy knitting!

27.10.2024 - 15:29

Lisa wrote:

Hei. I likhet med tidligere kommentarer lurer jeg på om det er en feil i mønsteret. Jeg strikker den største størrelsen (11/12 år): På mønsterdelen på forstykke står det at man skal strikke 6 masker før og etter A.1., gjør jeg dette sitter jeg igjen med altfor mange masker. Ved å strikke 8 masker før og etter A.1, ble det riktig antall masker. Er det feil i mønsteret?

30.09.2024 - 14:19

Hej Lisa. I den största storleken blir det såhär: 1+29+2+9+2+6+17+6+2+9+1=84 m. Mvh DROPS Design

14.10.2024 - 14:35

Helia wrote:

Me encanta este modelo pero para mi es necesario el video tutoríal del punto calado, Donde lo encuentro ? Muchas gracias por ayudarme

20.03.2024 - 23:13

Hola Helia, en nuestra sección de videos en la parte superior del patrón puedes encontrar los videos relevantes para este patrón, entre los que se incluyen cómo trabajar las hebras (https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=12&lang=es) y cómo trabajar los 5 puntos juntos(https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=685&lang=es) o juntos retorcidos (https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=682&lang=es). No tenemos un video específico sobre cómo trabajar estos diagramas, pero puedes escribirnos si tienes una duda concreta sobre cómo trabajarlos.

24.03.2024 - 23:19

Angela wrote:

23.10.2023 - 23:45

Buonasera Angela, deve lavorare fino alla penultima maglia sul giro e lavorare l'ultima maglia come se fosse la prima del giro. Buon lavoro!

24.10.2023 - 22:35

Anna wrote:

In questo modello c'è scritto:Lavorare il giro successivo con il motivo a maglia rasata come prima ma iniziare il giro 1 maglia prima ( prima delle due maglie a maglia rasata tra le maniche e il dietro).Potreste spiegare meglio per favore?Se il giro precedente finisce dove c'è il primo segnapunti come faccio a iniziare il giro successivo sui due punti che precedono il segnapunti?Grazie mille

23.10.2023 - 23:04

Per avviare le maglie per lo sprone sto usando ferro circolare più grande (nr 5) eppure mi sembra che l'apertura per la testa sia troppo piccola. Il numero delle maglie da avviare è corretto? Vorrei lavorare la taglia 9/10 anni 09.10.2023 - 23:59

10.10.2023 - 08:38

Buonasera Anna, può scegliere una tecnica di avvio più morbida, ma al momento non ci sono correzioni per il modello. Buon lavoro!

19.10.2023 - 23:36

	DROPS Air mix 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool	4.80 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Air uni colour 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool	4.80 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Air mix 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool 4.80 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Air uni colour 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool 4.80 £ /50g Order

Clover

Knitted jumper for children in DROPS Air or DROPS Paris. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern and raglan. Sizes 2-12 years.

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Diagram

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS Children 34-4

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Clover

Knitted jumper for children in DROPS Air or DROPS Paris. The piece is worked top down with lace pattern and raglan. Sizes 2-12 years.

Diagram explanations

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