DROPS / 196 / 4

Clover by DROPS Design

Knitted jumper with raglan in 2 strands DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with wave pattern and moss stitch. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-165
Yarn group C + C or E
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
400-450-500-500-550-650 colour 12, moss green

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING TENSION:
11 stitches in width and 15 rows in height with stocking stitch and 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 8 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 8 MM: length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM: length 40 cm and 60 cm or 80 cm for rib.
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 3.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 25.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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INCREASE/DECREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase/decrease evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 50 stitches) and divide by the number of increases/decreases to be made (e.g. 6) = 8.3.
In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approximately each 8th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
When decreasing, in this example, knit each 7th and 8th stitch together (approx.).

MOSS STITCH:
ROUND 1: * Knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-*.
ROUND 2: Knit over purl and purl over knit. Repeat round 2.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch on each side of the 2 knitted stitches in each transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches increased on round). Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over.
On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
Then work the new stitches in moss stitch on the sleeves and in stocking stitch on the front and back pieces.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there is 1 stitch left before the marker thread, knit 3 together = 1 stitch (move marker thread to before this stitch).

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down.
You can work an elevation in the back of the neck for a better fit, so that the yoke is slightly higher at the back. This elevation can be left out; the neck is then the same front and back – read description of elevation further down the text. After the yoke the body is worked in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

NECK:
Cast on 50-50-52-56-58-60 stitches with circular needle size 7 mm and 2 strands Air. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 3 cm. Knit 1 round where you increase 6-6-8-4-6-0 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE/DECREASE TIP = 56-56-60-60-64-60 stitches. Change to circular needle size 8 mm. Now you can work an elevation in the back of the neck or go straight to yoke if you do not want an elevation.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker at the beginning of the round (mid back). Start from the right side and knit 6-6-6-7-7-7 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten the strand and purl 12-12-12-14-14-14 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 18-18-18-21-21-21 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 24-24-24-28-28-28 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 30-30-30-35-35-35 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 36-36-36-42-42-42 stitches, turn, tighten strand and knit to mid back. Turn, tighten strand and purl 10 stitches past the marker, turn. Start the next round (i.e. the yoke) here.

YOKE:
Insert 1 marker here - THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!
Now insert 4 marker threads in the piece as follows (without working the stitches): Insert the first marker thread at the beginning of the round (= in transition between sleeve and back piece), 2nd marker thread is inserted after the next 19 stitches (= back piece), 3rd marker thread is inserted after the next 9-9-11-11-13-11 stitches (= sleeve) and 4th marker thread is inserted after the next 19 stitches (= front piece). There are 9-9-11-11-13-11 stitches left to the first marker thread (= sleeve).
The next round is worked as follows:
The round starts at the first marker thread, in the transition between sleeve and back piece. Knit 1, make 1 yarn over, work 17 stitches in stocking stitch (= back piece), make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over, work 7-7-9-9-11-9 stitches MOSS STITCH – read description above (= sleeve), make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over, work A.1 (= 17 stitches = front piece), make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over, work 7-7-9-9-11-9 stitches in moss stitch (= sleeve), make 1 yarn over, knit 1.
The first increase to RAGLAN – read description above, is now finished (= 8 stitches increased on the round). Continue this pattern and increase to raglan every 2nd round a total of 15-17-18-19-20-22 times (including the first round described above). NOTE: When A.1 has been completed in height, work A.2 (= 21 stitches) over A.1. RepeatA.2 in height to finished length. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
After the last increase to raglan there are 180-196-208-216-228-240 stitches on the needle. Continue with pattern as before, without increases, until the piece measures 21-23-24-26-27-29 cm from the marker at the beginning of the yoke.
The next round is worked in pattern and stocking stitch as before as follows:
Work 50-54-57-60-63-68 stitches in stocking stitch (= on back piece), place the next 37-41-43-43-45-45 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 4-4-4-6-8-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), continue with stocking stitch and pattern as before over the next 55-59-63-67-71-77 stitches (= front piece), place the next 37-41-43-43-45-45 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 4-4-4-6-8-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work the last 1-1-2-3-4-5 stitches in stocking stitch (= on back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 114-122-130-142-154-170 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the 4-4-4-6-8-10 new stitches cast on under the sleeve in each side. Start the round by one of the marker threads and allow the marker threads to follow your work onwards. Continue with stocking stitch and pattern A.2. When the piece measures 24-24-25-25-26-26 cm from the division (approx. 48-50-52-54-56-58 c¬¬m from the shoulder) knit 1 round where you increase 16-18-18-20-22-24 stitches evenly on round = 130-140-148-162-176-194 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 7 mm and work rib (= knit 1 / purl 1) for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl – to avoid the cast-off edge being tight, you can cast off with a needle size 8 mm. The jumper measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Place the 37-41-43-43-45-45 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle or double pointed needles size 8 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 4-4-4-6-8-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 41-45-47-49-53-55 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 4-4-4-6-8-10 stitches under the sleeve and start the round here. Work moss stitch. When the piece measures 2 cm from the division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-3½-2½-3-2-2 cm a total of 7-8-9-9-11-11 times = 27-29-29-31-31-33 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 36-34-34-32-32-30 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you increase 5 stitches evenly on round = 32-34-34-36-36-38 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 7 mm and work rib (=knit 1/ purl 1) for 5 cm. The sleeve measures approx. 41-39-39-37-37-35 from the division. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - to avoid the cast-off edge being tight, you can cast off with a needle size 8 mm. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 23.04.2019
Correction - ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK: ..Turn, tighten the strand and knit 30-30-30-35-35-35 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 36-36-36-42-42-42 stitches, turn, tighten strand and knit to mid back. Turn, tighten strand and purl 10 stitches past the marker, turn.

Diagram

= knit
= purl
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round knit the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; on the next round knit the yarn over to leave a hole
= KNIT 5 STITCHES TOGETHER AS FOLLOWS: Knit 5 stitches, slip them back onto the left needle, pass the next outermost stitch over the outermost stitch, so that it lies around the last stitch, repeat until all 4 stitches are passed over (= 4 stitches decreased), slip the last knitted stitch back onto the right needle.
= KNIT 5 STITCHES TWISTED TOGETHER AS FOLLOWS: Knit 5 stitches, pass the next to last knitted stitch over the last knitted stitch, so that this stitch lies around the last stitch, repeat until all 4 stitches are passed over (= 4 stitches decreased).


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 196-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

Lucia 14.11.2019 - 12:36:

Posso sapere come è il dietro del maglione? manca la foto grazie

DROPS Design 14.11.2019 kl. 14:52:

Buongiorno Lucia. Il dietro è lavorato a maglia rasata. Buon lavoro!

Lene Christensen 14.11.2019 - 08:52:

Har strikket mange år efter jeres fantastiske opskrifter. Tak for dem. Vil nu strikke 196-4. Den angivne strikkefasthed - er det på pind 7 eller 8 ?

DROPS Design 14.11.2019 kl. 13:23:

Hej Lene! Vi har brugt pinde 8 for at få strikkefastheden som står i opskriften. Men lav selv en strikkeprøve, det som er vigtigt er at du får 11 masker på 10 cm i bredden og 15 pinde på 10 cm i højden. Lykke til!

----- 13.04.2019 - 16:09:

Jeg strikker den største størrelse og med forhøjning i nakken. Desværre er det meget tydeligt at forhøjningen ikke er centreret. Det ses især ved at forhøjningen af glatstrik ses ved det ene ærme (som er perlestrik) men ikke ved det andet ærme. Er der fejl i opskriften eller har jeg gjort noget forkert? Jeg har startet omgangen til bærestykket 10 masker forbi den oprindelige omgangsstart.

Rigmor Finnland 12.03.2019 - 13:00:

Finnes det oppskrift på denne genseren med bare 1 tråd. og Drops Air ?

DROPS Design 12.03.2019 kl. 14:25:

Hej Rigmor, her ser du hvad vi har af gensere med bølgemønster: gensere - bølgemønster Til 1 tråd DROPS Air skal du have en strikkefasthed på 16-17 masker. God fornøjelse!

Sandra 22.02.2019 - 22:16:

Bonjour, je ne comprend pas l'explication de la rehausse d'encolure "Tourner, serrer le fil et tricoter 30-30-30-35-35-35 mailles endroit, tourner, serrer le fil et tricoter à l’envers jusqu’au milieu dos, tricoter 10 mailles envers après le marqueur, tourner. Commencer le tour suivant (c'est-à-dire l'empiècement) ici." Il me semble que du coup ce n'est pas équilibré de chaque coté du milieu dos et que la rehausse est tordue. Pouvez-vous me clarifier ce point? Merci

DROPS Design 25.02.2019 kl. 07:40:

Bonjour Sandra! Vous avez raison que ce n'est pas equilibre. Mais n'ayez pas peur, cela ne sera pas du tout visible. Ensuite vous faites l'empiecement. La rehausse n'est pas obligatoire, vous pouvez commencer l'empiecement directement apres le col. Bon travail!

Sandra 21.02.2019 - 22:28:

Bonjour, je ne comprend pas l'explication de la rehausse d'encolure "Tourner, serrer le fil et tricoter 30-30-30-35-35-35 mailles endroit, tourner, serrer le fil et tricoter à l’envers jusqu’au milieu dos, tricoter 10 mailles envers après le marqueur, tourner. Commencer le tour suivant (c'est-à-dire l'empiècement) ici." Il me semble que du coup ce n'est pas équilibré de chaque coté du milieu dos et que la rehausse est tordue. Pouvez-vous me clarifier ce point? Merci

Annick 03.02.2019 - 15:14:

Pourriez -vous me préciser si le dos comporte le même motif que le devant ou si il est -il tricoté en jersey simple ? En effet , le premier tour de l'empiècement commence par le dos et indique qu'il faut tricoter 17mailles jersey sans indiquer s'il faut suivre la grille A1. Merci de votre réponse

DROPS Design 04.02.2019 kl. 00:00:

Bonjour Annick. Le dos est tricote en jersey simple. Bon travail!

Susanne Damgaard 19.12.2018 - 08:28:

Hej! Jeg synes godt nok det er forvirrende forklaret med den her forhøjning i nakken. Jeg er nået til det sidste punkt i “FORHØJNING BAG I NAKKEN”, dvs.; jeg har netop strikket de 10 m vrang (hvorfor 10 masker??) forbi mærket, og vendt....men hvad så? Det midterste af forhøjningen skal vel være lig med “midt bagpå”, men jeg synes bare ikke det stemmer overens med den videre forklaring og mærketrådene.

DROPS Design 20.12.2018 kl. 08:39:

Hei Susanne. De 10 maskene du strikker er for at omgangen skal starte mellom bakstykket og ermet. Første merketråd setter du på begynnelsen av omgangen (overgang mellom venstre erme og bol), så strikker du 19 masker, midten av forhøyningen er midt på disse 19 maskene (=bakstykket). Her settes 2. merke (overgangen mellom bakstykke og høyre erme). Videre strikkes masker til erme før 3. merke settes, og så strikkes 19 masker (=forstykket) og 4. merke settes. Det er nå like mange masker på for- og bakstykke, og like mange masker på hvert erme. Forhøyningen er sentrert midt på bakstykke. God fornøyelse

Susanne Damgaard 15.12.2018 - 10:36:

Hej! Jeg synes godt nok det er forvirrende forklaret med den her forhøjning i nakken. Jeg er nået til det sidste punkt i “FORHØJNING BAG I NAKKEN”, dvs.; jeg har netop strikket de 10 m vrang forbi mærket, og vendt....men hvad så? Det midterste af forhøjningen skal vel være lig med “midt bagpå”, men jeg synes bare ikke det stemmer overens med den videre forklaring og mærketrådene

Mona 08.11.2018 - 14:28:

Jag undrar om det finnes mønster till slätstickad rundstickad raglangens i garnet Drops Karisma? Jag har letat och letat på er nettsida men ej funnit något. Jag vill köpa garn och sätta igång. Ge råd.

DROPS Design 09.11.2018 kl. 10:58:

Hej Mona, ja alla här som står 20-21 maskor kan du sticka i DROPS Karisma tröja, dam, garngrupp B, raglan vill du ha till barn är det bara att kryssa bort Dam. Lycka till :)

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