DROPS / 196 / 20

Flora Viola by DROPS Design

Crocheted jumper with raglan in DROPS Puna. Piece is crocheted top down in an angle with fans, lace pattern and A-shape. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern pu-035
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS PUNA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
700-750-800-900-1000-1100 g colour no 11, plum

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

CROCHET TENSION:
16 double treble crochets in width and 5.5 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm.

CROCHET HOOK:
DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4.5 mm.
Hook size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger hook. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller hook.

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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 1.75 £ /50g
DROPS Puna natural DROPS Puna natural 1.75 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Puna natural mix DROPS Puna natural mix 1.75 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Puna uni colour DROPS Puna uni colour 2.15 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.50£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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CROCHET INFORMATION: 
At beginning of every round with double treble crochets replace first double treble crochet with 4 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 4th chain stitch at beginning of round.
On every round with double crochets replace first double crochet with 1 chain stitch. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.11. Choose diagram for your size.
1 fan = 2 chain stitches + 1 bobble + 4 chain stitches + 1 bobble + 2 chain stitches.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
All decreases are done on 1 round with double treble crochets.
Work 1 double treble crochet in each of the first 2 double crochets, work the next 2 double treble crochets together (= 1 stitch decreased), work 1 double treble crochet in every double crochet until 4 double crochets remain on round, work the next 2 double treble crochets together (= 1 stitch decreased), work 1 double treble crochet in each of the last 2 double crochets.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work in the round top down. First work a yoke. Then divide the piece into body and sleeves and continue in the round separately.

YOKE:
Work 102-102-111-116-116-125 chain stitches on hook size 4.5 mm with Puna and form a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Work 1 chain stitch (= first double crochet) - read CROCHET INFO, skip first chain stitch, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 3-3-5-3-3-5 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, work from *-* and finish with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch on round = 88-88-96-100-100-108 double crochets.
Then work pattern as follows:
Round begins in transition between back piece and sleeve (i.e. first work over sleeve, front piece, sleeve and finally back piece).
Right sleeve: Work A.1 over first stitch, A.2 over 1 stitch, A.3 over 1 stitch.
Front piece: Work A.4 over the next 2-2-4-2-2-4 stitches, A.5 over 17-17-17-18-18-18 stitches, A.6 over 1-1-1-3-3-3 stitches, A.7 over 1 stitch (= mid front), A.8 over 1-1-1-3-3-3 stitches, A.9 over 17-17-17-18-18-18 stitches, A.4 over the next 2-2-4-2-2-4 stitches.
Left sleeve: Work as right sleeve.
Back piece: Work as front piece.
Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
Repeat A.4, A.5 and A.9 vertically. Work A.2 until arrow for your size, then work A.4 over these stitches.
When A.1, A.3, A.6, A.7 and A.8 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 55-55-59-63-63-67 double crochets and 4 fans on each front piece/back piece and 29-31-39-37-33-31 double crochets on each sleeve = 168-172-196-200-192-196 double crochets + 8 fan pattern in total.
Piece measures approx. 14 cm measured along shoulder.
Then work as follows:
Right sleeve: Work A.1 over first stitch, A.4 over the next 27-29-37-35-31-29 stitches, A.3 over 1 stitch.
Front piece: Work A.4 over the next 2-2-4-2-2-4 stitches, A.5 2 times in total in width, A.6 over the next 1-1-1-3-3-3 stitches, A.7 (= 1 stitch = mid front), A.8 over the next 1-1-1-3-3-3 stitches, A.9 2 times in total in width, A.4 over the next 2-2-4-2-2-4 stitches.
Left sleeve: Work as right sleeve.
Back piece: Work as front piece.
Continue pattern like this until piece measures 22-24-25-27-29-31 cm in total, measured along the shoulder (i.e. approx. 7-9-10-12-14-15 rounds after first repetition of pattern A.1, A.3 and A.6 to A.8).
There are now approx. 65-71-77-89-93-97 double crochets/double treble crochets and approx. 6-6-6-6-6-8 fans on each front piece/back piece and approx. 45-51-59-61-61-63 double crochets/double treble crochets on each sleeve = approx. 220-244-272-300-308-320 double crochets/double treble crochets + approx. 12-12-12-12-12-16 fan pattern in total.
Now divide the piece for sleeves and body as follows:
Right sleeve: Skip sleeve stitches (= approx. 45-51-59-61-61-63 stitches) and work 6-6-6-8-10-12 chain stitches under sleeve.
Front piece: Work pattern as before.
Left sleeve: Skip sleeve stitches (= approx. 45-51-59-61-61-63 stitches) and work 6-6-6-8-10-12 chain stitches under sleeve.
Back piece: Work as front piece.
There are now approx. 71-77-83-93-103-109 double crochets/double treble crochets/chain stitches (including chain stitches under sleeve) + approx. 6-6-6-6-6-8 fans on each front piece/back piece = approx. 142-154-166-186-206-218 double crochets/double treble crochets and approx. 12-12-12-12-12-16 fan pattern in total.

BODY:
Work 1 round with pattern as before and 1 double crochet/double treble crochet in every chain stitch under sleeve. Displace round so that it begins mid under sleeve. Insert 1 marker mid under both sleeves.
Then work pattern as before but decrease stitches in each side as follows:
Front piece: Work A.4 over the first 2-2-4-4-5-8 stitches, A.10 over the next 5 stitches + fan pattern + 1 stitch (adjust which round to begin on according to pattern), work pattern as before (i.e. continue to increase mid front) until 8-8-10-10-11-14 stitches remain and 1 fan before marker, work A.11 over 1 stitch + fan pattern + 5 stitches, work A.4 over the next 2-2-4-4-5-8 stitches.
Back piece: Work as front piece.
Continue pattern like this.
I.e. on every round with double treble crochets increase stitches on each side of A.7 (i.e. increase stitches in A.6 and A.8) and decrease stitches in A.10 and A.11 (when decreasing/increasing double treble crochets increase 2 double treble crochets on each side of A.7 (= 8 double treble crochets increased) and decrease 1 double treble crochet in every A.10/A.11 (= 4 double treble crochets decreased in total), i.e. increase 4 double treble crochets in total on round).
Decrease pattern in the sides and increase for new pattern mid front/mid back. When A.10 and A.11 have been worked 1 time vertically, continue decrease in double treble crochets as before (i.e. now there is no decrease in the fan pattern).
When piece measures 20 cm from where body was divided from sleeve, measured along the side on the shortest, increase stitches as before, but do not increase for fans, i.e. work all stitches increased in double crochets/double treble crochets.
When piece measures 25-25-26-26-26-26 cm from where body was divided sleeve, measured along the shortest (i.e. approx. 11 rounds with double treble crochets = 11 times increased), work 1 edge as follows:
Work * 1 double crochet, 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm *, work from *-* in the round, adjust to finish with 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in first double crochet.
Make sure edge is not too tight, skip fewer stitches if needed. Fasten off. Jumper measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm measured from shoulder and down on the shortest.

SLEEVE:
Fasten strand with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch under sleeve, work 1 double crochet/double treble crochet in each of the 2-2-2-3-4-5 chain stitches under sleeve (adjust whether to work double crochet or double treble crochet according to pattern), work 1 double crochet/double treble crochet in each of the approx. 45-51-59-61-61-63 stitches skipped for sleeve and finish with 1 double crochet/double treble crochet in each of the last 3-3-3-4-5-6 chain stitches under sleeve = approx. 51-57-65-69-71-75 double crochets/double treble crochets.
Continue in the round according to A.4.
When sleeve measures 2 cm, decrease 2 stitches under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every 5-3-2½-2½-2½-2 cm 8-11-13-13-14-15 times in total = approx. 35-36-39-43-43-45 stitches.
Continue pattern until piece measures 43-42-41-40-38-37 cm, now work 1 edge around the sleeve as follows: Work * 1 double crochet, 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm *, work from *-* around the entire sleeve, adjust to finish with 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in first double crochet. Fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Crochet an edge around the neck as follows: Begin mid on top of shoulder, fasten strand with 1 slip stitch in 1 stitch, work * 1 double crochet in next stitch, 3 chain stitches, skip approx. 1 cm *, work from *-* in the round as follows, adjust to finish round with 3 chain stitches and 1 slip stitch in first double crochet. Make sure edge is not too tight at the neck, skip fewer stitches if needed. Fasten off.

Diagram

= chain stitch
= double treble crochet
= double crochet in stitch
= double crochet around chain stitch
= Bobble: Work 1 double treble crochet in next double crochet but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), work 3 double treble crochets in same double crochet the same way, pull yarn through all 5 loops on hook
= work 2 double treble crochets together as follows:* Make 2 yarn overs, insert hook in next stitch, get the yarn, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through the 2 first loops on hook, make 1 yarn over and pull through the 2 next loops on hook *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 double treble crochet decreased).
= first round has already been worked, it only shows how next round should be worked in/around stitches





Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 196-20) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (48)

Sofia 07.10.2019 - 03:14:

Me encanta el saco pero no entiendo el patrón, me ayudaría más un video, por favor, por favor

Sofia 04.10.2019 - 05:46:

Es posible tener un video para elaborar este saco. Gracias

DROPS Design 13.10.2019 kl. 22:50:

Hola Sofia. Bajo el patrón tienes vídeos relacionados que pueden ayudarte a realizar el modelo. No hay un video de la elaboración completa del jersey.

Carolyn 21.09.2019 - 17:57:

Beautiful sweater but decided after trying to read through the diagrams and instructions I will pass on this one. I agree with another commenter that instructions should be written. I can see from the comments that many are having difficulty.

DROPS Design 23.09.2019 kl. 10:19:

Dear Carolyn, The DROPS patterns are knitted and crocheted by thousands and thousands of people  around the world. We understand however that in certain countries, with different knitting/crochet traditions than Scandinavia, our patterns might be written in a way that differs from what some are used to. But of course we want everyone to understand our patterns, so that’s why we have created an extensive library of tutorial videos as well as step by step lessons that explain how to follow the techniques we use and how to read the diagrams in our patterns. Give them a try!

Annette 29.08.2019 - 05:50:

I love this pattern - I cannot work out the symbolised patterns at all, never haven abject to. Is there a video tutorial if this garment being made? I’ve tried the tutorials in reading symbolised patterns to no avail my brain just dies nitcsrfm to dirk that way! N Cheers Annette

DROPS Design 29.08.2019 kl. 09:37:

Dear Annette, there are no video to this pattern, you will find how to read crochet diagrams here, should you need any further individual assistance reading diagram, please contact your DROPS store, even per mail or telephone. Happy crocheting!

Dorothy Thornton 19.07.2019 - 03:08:

Can you tell me is the drops puma yarn a light weight worsted yarn or regular worsted yarn. Can it be substituted with a regular worsted weight American yarn? Like red heart or love or bernat?

DROPS Design 19.07.2019 kl. 08:16:

Dear Mrs Thornton, We are able to provide free patterns thanks to our yarns sold throughout the world. You will therefore understand that we can only recomand you to contact your DROPS Store shipping to USA for any further help & assistance. Thank you for your comprehension.

Mc 25.06.2019 - 08:49:

Bonjour, Je veux réaliser l'échantillon, (j'utilise un fil différent), et je lis qu'il faut monter jusqu'à 5,5 rangs, comment faire un demi rang ? Merci

DROPS Design 25.06.2019 kl. 11:24:

Bonjour Mc, pour votre échantillon, montez toujours davantage de mailles en l'air et crochetez plus de mailles en l'air que le nombre indiqué pour 10 cm, et crochetez également plus de rangs en hauteur que le nombre indiqué pour l'échantillon, il est ainsi plus facile de mesurer les 10 cm en largeur et en hauteur. Bon crochet!

Michaela 16.05.2019 - 12:33:

Prosím o přeložení také do českého jazyka. Velmi děkuji.

Bernadette Rushmer 09.04.2019 - 17:00:

Hi thanks for your answer. I got the 2nd round done,but am stuck again. Isn't there a pattern that is not a diagram. I just can't understand the instructions after round 2. Do I follow the diagram from 1 to 9 or do I repeat 4,5 and 9 first. Sorry to ask so many questions,but I really want to make this. After a half a day of trying and unraveling I am near to giving up. 😣

DROPS Design 10.04.2019 kl. 09:59:

Dear Mrs Rushmer, you work each row in each diagram the one after the other (= row 1 all diagrams, then row 2 all diagrams etc). When the 2 rows in A.4,A.5 and A.9 have been worked, repeat from row 1 (= repeat the 2 rows in these diagrams), at the same time, continue working A.2 to the arrow for your size, ie after row 2 all diagrams, work row 1 A.4-5-9 and work row 3 in A.2, then work row 2 A.4-5-9 and row 4 in A.2 etc. Happy crocheting!

Bernadette Rushmer 08.04.2019 - 15:05:

Hi,I have never used a diagram before a d I dont know what A1 over 1 stitch etc means. Do I crochet everything in 1 stitch? I am really confused. Please help!! Thanks😊

DROPS Design 08.04.2019 kl. 16:19:

Dear Mrs Rushmer, first row in A.1 will be worked over 1 stitch (= 3 tr (UK-English) in 1 stitch) - learn more about reading diagrams here. Happy crocheting!

Cecilia 05.04.2019 - 14:06:

Junto con saludarles y comentarles que tienen muy lindos patrones me gustaría que hicieran vídeos tutoriales para las que somos principiantes se lo agradeceríamos mucho

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