DROPS / 195 / 31

Fritid by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with round yoke in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with false English rib and A-shape. Sizes S - XXXL.

  • Fritid / DROPS 195-31 - Knitted sweater with round yoke in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with false English rib and A-shape. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Fritid / DROPS 195-31 - Knitted sweater with round yoke in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with false English rib and A-shape. Sizes S - XXXL.
  • Fritid / DROPS 195-31 - Knitted sweater with round yoke in DROPS Air. The piece is worked top down with false English rib and A-shape. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-126
Yarn group C or A + A

Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
300-300-350-350-400-450 g color 03, pearl gray


14 stitches in width and 32 rows in height (seen from the wrong side) with false English rib = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
16 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM/US 9 : length 40 cm and 80 cm/16" and 32" .
The needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm / 4'', change to a smaller needle size.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.60 $ /50g
DROPS Air mix DROPS Air mix 6.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Air uni colour DROPS Air uni colour 6.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.



See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size.
The yarn overs in the pattern are not counted as stitches.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 82 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 7) = 11.7. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. each 12th stitch. On the next round work the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for body):
Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased), knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over (= 1 stitch increased). Increase like this at both marker threads (= a total of 4 stitches increased).

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).




The yoke is worked in the round with circular needle, top down in false English rib. Then the yoke is divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued in the round in stockinette stitch with a false English rib edge. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles in stockinette stitch and with a false English rib edge.

Cast on 66-72-78-82-85-91 stitches with circular needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 and Air.
Knit 2-2-2-4-4-4 rounds, AT THE SAME TIME on round 3 increase 0-0-0-6-11-13 stitches evenly on round – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 66-72-78-88-96-104 stitches.
Work A.1a ( 6-6-6-8-8-8 stitches) a total of 11-12-13-11-12-13 times in width.
Continue this pattern.
REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Be careful, when increasing in the diagram, that the stitch you increase in is not tightened more than absolutely necessary; there will be a small hole in this stitch. When A.1a has been worked 1 time in height there are 154-168-182-176-192-208 stitches on the needle. Now work A.1b over A.1a. When A.1b has been completed in height there are 198-216-234-264-288-312 stitches on the needle. The piece measures approx. 20-20-20-24-24-24 cm / 7 7/8"-7 7/8"-7 7/8"-9 3/8"-9 3/8"-9 3/8" from the cast-on edge. Repeat the last 2 rounds in A.1b until the piece measures 21-23-24-26-28-30 cm / 8 ¼"-9"-9 3/8"-10 ¼"-11"-11 ¾" from the cast-on edge; adjust so that you finish with a round without yarn overs.
Knit all stitches and increase 14-20-30-16-12-16 stitches evenly on round = 212-236-264-280-300-328 stitches. On the next round divide for body and sleeves as follows:
Knit 31-34-38-41-45-50 stitches (= half back piece), place the next 44-50-56-58-60-64 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches under the sleeve, knit 62-68-76-82-90-100 stitches (= front piece), place the next 44-50-56-58-60-64 stitches on a thread for sleeve and cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches under the sleeve. Finish with knit 31-34-38-41-45-50 stitches (= half back piece) = 140-152-168-184-200-220 stitches.
The yoke measures approx. 22-24-25-27-29-31 cm / 8 5/8"-9 3/8"-9 ¾"-10 5/8"-11 3/8"-12 1/8".

Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches in each side of the piece (= 70-76-84-92-100-110 stitches on both front and back pieces). Continue with stockinette stitch. When the piece measures 3 cm / 1'' from where the body was divided from the sleeves, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2! Increase like this every 3-3-4-4-3-3 cm / 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 ½"-1 ½"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" a total of 7-7-6-6-7-7 times = 168-180-192-208-228-248 stitches. When the piece measures 25-25-26-26-26-26 cm / 9 ¾"-9 ¾"-10 ¼"-10 ¼"-10 ¼"-10 ¼" from where the body was divided from the sleeves work an edge as follows:
On the next round increase 10 stitches evenly on round = 178-190-202-218-238-258 stitches. Work A.2 (= 2 stitches) over all stitches. When A.2 has been worked for approx. 6 cm / 2 3/8'' bind off with knit. The piece measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26'' from the shoulder down.

Place the 44-50-56-58-60-64 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on double pointed needles SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 52-58-64-68-70-74 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-8-10-10-10 new stitches. Work stockinette stitch in the round. When the sleeve measures 3 cm / 1'' from where it was divided from the body, decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 4-3-2½-2-2-1½ cm/1½"-1 1/8"-3/4"-3/4"-½" a total of 7-9-11-13-13-14 times = 38-40-42-42-44-46 stitches. When the sleeve measures 35-34-34-33-32-32 cm / 13 ¾"-13 3/8"-13 3/8"-13"-12 ½"-12 ½" from where it was divided from the body, work A.2 over all stitches. Bind off with knit when A.2 has been worked 1 time in height. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 19.09.2018
worked in false fisherman's rib (previously half fisherman's rib)


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = purl
symbols = 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch onto right needle as if to purl
symbols = knit the yarn over and knitted stitch together
symbols = = work 5 stitches in stitch and yarn over as follows: Knit yarn over and stitch together, but wait to slip the yarn over and the stich of left needle, * make 1 yarn over on the right needle and knit the stitch and yarn over together *, work from *-* a total of 2 times before slipping the stitches of the left needle = 5 stitches (= 4 stitches increased)
symbols = knitting direction

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 195-31) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (29)

country flag Kerstin 24.01.2021 - 13:32:

Eine Frage zur Länge der Ärmel: kann es sein, dass der Ärmel in Größe S länger ist als bei den großen Größen? Es heißt, "bei einer Länge des Ärmels von 35 cm ab der Teilung...." in Gr. S. Das verstehe ich nicht. Besten Dank für eine Rückmeldung.

user icon DROPS Design 25.01.2021 kl. 09:52:

Liebe Kerstin, ja genau so stimmt es, bei den größren Größen ist die Passe länger, deshalb werden die Ärmel dann kürzer sein- schauen Sie mal die Maßen in die Skizze - länge können Sie auch gerne anpassen (Pullover anziehen, um die Länge zu prüfen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

country flag Hanne Hedeman 10.04.2020 - 17:06:

Jeg vil gerne lære,hvordan jeg finder ud af ,at fordele masker til bluse foroven ,f.eks halskant hvordan inddeler jeg hals ,for arme,ryg,arme eks Raglan ,har du 1 forslag til.bluse.sa.jeg.ksn se måskeantallet.fordelt jeg kan ikke.finde.ud af fordelingen af.makerne.mvh Hanne hedeman.

user icon DROPS Design 24.04.2020 kl. 09:44:

Hej Hanne, Fordelingen beskriver vi altid tydeligt i opskriften. Her ser du en generel video hvordan man gør

How to knit a jumper top down from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

country flag Pia 31.03.2020 - 22:47:

Salve, ho finito il lavoro e mi è molto piaciuto. Tuttavia come tutti i modelli topdown lo scolo è uguale davanti e dietro. Dunque è troppo scollato dietro. Finito il lavoro è possibile creare una alzatina dietro? E come?

user icon DROPS Design 01.04.2020 kl. 09:37:

Buongiorno Pia. Potrebbe provare a riprendere le maglie intorno al collo e lavorare qualche giro a legaccio, con ferri accorciati sul dietro. Può contattare il suo rivenditore Drops di fiducia per ulteriore assistenza personalizzata. Buon lavoro!

country flag Anneke 20.03.2020 - 19:39:

Klopt het stekenaantal wel na de eerste keer meerderen in de pas, na A 1a? Er staat 154-168-182-176-192-208. Volgens mij zijn het derde en vierde getal omgedraaid.

user icon DROPS Design 29.03.2020 kl. 12:55:

Dag Anneke,

Het aantal opgegeven steken heb ik nagerekend en ze zijn juist. Let erop dat je het juiste telpatroon neemt voor jouw maat. Wanneer je A.1b boven A.1a hebt gebreid heb je wel weer meer steken in XL dan in L.

country flag Vita Catania 03.01.2020 - 14:54:

Dove trovo aggiungi ai preferiti? Grazie

user icon DROPS Design 04.01.2020 kl. 10:47:

Buongiorno Vita, per aggiungere il modello ai preferiti deve cliccare sul cuore che trova dopo la prima parte delle spiegazioni, e inserire la propria mail. Buon lavoro!

country flag Léa K 09.12.2019 - 09:58:

Merci pour votre réponse.\r\nJ’ai finalement recommencé le tricot en faisant pour les fausses côtes anglaises : *maille envers - maille glissée envers - jeté*  (au lieu de maille envers - jeté - maille glissée envers) et ça semble fonctionner !

country flag Léa K 07.12.2019 - 09:36:

Bonjour, J'ai un problème qui a déjà été signalé dans ces commentaires : mes fausses côtes anglaises se retrouvent sur l'envers du tricot. J'ai pourtant regardé la vidéo et il me semble que je fais la même chose (bien que je n'utilise pas la méthode continentale)... Avez-vous résolu le problème chez les autres utilisatrices ? Merci !

user icon DROPS Design 09.12.2019 kl. 08:15:

Bonjour Léa K, les explications françaises correspondent au modèle original, suivez bien la vidéo et les diagrammes en même temps, et n'hésitez pas à montrer votre ouvrage à votre magasin (même par mail si besoin), il pourra fort probablement vous aider. Bon tricot!

country flag Arlenproject 21.11.2019 - 19:24:

Vedo dai tutorial che "coste inglesi" e "false coste inglesi" si lavorano allo stesso modo... che senso ha? la costa inglese che io conoscevo e' lavorata tutta a punto diritto prendendo la seconda maglia sul ferro precedente

country flag Jourdain 24.10.2019 - 21:30:

Merci pour votre réponse très rapide ! J'ai vu dans les commentaires qu'une autre française a eu le même problème que moi . N'y aurait-il pas un problème de traduction concernant les fausses côtes anglaises ? Ou bien peut-être faut-il commencer le tricot par 2 tours envers pour que les côtes anglaises soient du bon côté ? J'aimerais vraiment comprendre Merci

user icon DROPS Design 25.10.2019 kl. 09:39:

Bonjour Mme Jourdain, avez-vous regardé cette vidéo? Elle montre comment tricoter le diagramme A.1a en rond. Vous devez bien commencer par 2 tours endroit = 2 tours jersey, puis tricotez comme le montrent le diagramme et la vidéo. Bon tricot!

country flag Jourdain 24.10.2019 - 16:37:

Bonjour J'ai commencé le modèle en taille L par deux tours endroit comme demandé puis suivi le diagramme. Je me rends compte que mon ouvrage est sur l'envers et je n'arrive pas à comprendre mon erreur. Pourriez de me dire ce qui ne va pas? Merci

user icon DROPS Design 24.10.2019 kl. 17:15:

Bonjour Mme Jourdain, il est malheureusement un peu difficile de cerner le problème ainsi, vérifiez que vous avez bien monté les mailles et tricoté vos 2 tours endroit comme dans cette vidéo, puis continué en rond = toujours sur l'endroit (vous devez avoir 2 tours jersey + 1 tour d'augmentations dans les 3 plus grandes tailles avant A.1a)- n'hésitez pas à envoyer une photo à votre magasin, ils pourront fort probablement repérer l'erreur plus facilement. Bon tricot!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 195-31

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.