DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Sheep Happens! Cardigan

Knitted jacket with round yoke in DROPS Lima. Piece is knitted top down in Nordic pattern with sheep. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 194-1
DROPS design: Pattern no li-100
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
450-500-550-600-650-750 g color no 9015, gray
100-100-100-100-100-100 g color 6235, gray blue
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 0100, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 8903, black

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ACCESSORIES FOR THE PIECE:

KNITTING GAUGE:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows vertically in stockinette stitch = 4" x 4" (10 x 10 cm).

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR Needle size 4 mm / US 6, length 80 cm/32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR Needle size 3 mm / US 2.5, length 80 cm/32" for rib.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm / 4" switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm / 4" switch to smaller needles.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 6-6-7-7-8-8 pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN: 
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size. Work diagrams in stockinette stitch.
As the color changes are far apart, the strands should be twined after approx. every 7th stitch, to avoid long loose strand on the wrong side.

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 100 stitches), minus band (= 10 stitches = 90 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 31) = 2.9. 
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after approx. every 3rd stitch. Do not increase over band. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves): 
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 stitches (marker is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 3 stitches remain on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together, knit last stitch. On next row knit yarn over to make holes.
Decrease first buttonhole when rib in neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm. Then decrease the next 5-5-6-6-7-7 buttonholes, approx. 8½-8½-8-8-7½-7½ cm between each.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE GARMENT:
Work yoke back and forth on circular needle, top down. Divide the yoke into sleeves and body. Work body back and forth. Sleeves are worked in the round on double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 100-104-108-112-120-128 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side of piece) on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with gray blue. Purl 1 row from wrong side with 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, in each side of piece. Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, rib (= knit 2/purl 2) until 7 stitches remain, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Decrease for BUTTONHOLES on right band - read explanation above. Work rib for 3 cm / 1", adjust so that last row is from right side. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6.
Purl 1 row from wrong side with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side and increase 31-27-35-33-35-37 stitches evenly – read INCREASE TIP = 131-131-143-145-155-165 stitches.
Work pattern as follows from right side:
Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (= 1 stitch), A.2 (= 6-6-6-5-5-5 stitches) over the next 12-12-12-10-10-10 stitches (= 2 times in total), A.3 (= 12 stitches), A.2 over the next 42-42-48-50-55-60 stitches (= 7-7-8-10-11-12 times in total), A.3 over the next 12 stitches, A.2 over the next 42-42-48-50-55-60 stitches (= 7-7-8-10-11-12 times in total) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work band in the same color as A.1.
REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When A.1 to A.3 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 255-255-281-333-359-385 stitches on needle. Piece measures approx. 16 cm (including rib).
Purl 1 row with gray from wrong side with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side and increase 11-11-15-8-12-1 stitches evenly = 266-266-296-341-371-386 stitches.
Work next row from right side (work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes): Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch (now work band in gray until finished measurements), A.4 (= 1 stitch), A.5 (= 15 stitches) over the next 255-255-285-330-360-375 stitches (= 17-17-19-22-24-25 times in width) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
When A.4 and A.5 have been worked 1 time vertically, there are 317-351-372-407-443-461 stitches on needle. Piece now measures 21-23-24-25-25-25 cm / 8 ¼"-9"-9⅜"-9 ¾"-9 ¾"-9 ¾" (including rib). Work with gray until finished measurements.
Work in stockinette stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch until piece measures 21-23-25-26-28-30 cm / 8 ¼"-9"-9 ¾"-10 ¼"-11"-11 ¾" (including rib).
Now divide the piece for sleeves and body as follows:
Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, 45-49-51-57-63-68 stitches in stockinette stitch (= front piece), slip the next 64-72-79-84-90-90 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-10-14 stitches under sleeve, work 89-99-102-115-127-135 stitches in stockinette stitch (= back piece), slip the next 64-72-79-84-90-90 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve and cast on 8-8-10-10-10-14 stitches under sleeve, work 45-49-51-57-63-68 stitches in stockinette stitch and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch (= front piece) = 205-223-234-259-283-309 stitches.

BODY:
Then work in stockinette stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side of piece. When piece measures 26-26-26-27-27-27 cm / 10 ¼"-10 ¼"-10 ¼"-10⅝"-10⅝"-10⅝" from where body was divided from sleeves, increase 27-33-34-33-41-43 stitches evenly on next row from wrong side = 232-256-268-292-324-352 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work as follows on next row from right side: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, rib (= knit 2/purl 2) until 7 stitches remain, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch (work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes). Bind off by knitting from right side when rib measures 4 cm / 1½" (i.e. piece measures approx. 30-30-30-31-31-31 cm / 11 ¾"-11 ¾"-11 ¾"-12⅛"-12⅛"-12⅛" from where body was divided from sleeves). Jacket measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼" in total measured from shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 64-72-79-84-90-90 stitches from stitch holder in one side of piece on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and pick up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-10-14 stitches cast on under sleeve = 72-80-89-94-100-104 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-10-14 stitches under sleeve. Work in the round in stockinette stitch with gray. When piece measures 1 cm / ⅜" from where sleeves was divided from body, decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker - read DECREASE TIP.
Decrease like this every 3-2-1½-1½-1½-1 cm/1⅛"-¾"-½"-½"-½"-⅜" 11-15-18-19-22-23 times in total = 50-50-53-56-56-58 stitches.
When piece measures 40-38-37-36-35-33 cm / 15 ¾"-14⅞"-14 ½"-14⅛"-13 ¾"-13" from where sleeves were divided from body, increase 2-2-3-0-4-2 stitches evenly on next round = 52-52-56-56-60-60 stitches.
Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work rib = knit 2/purl 2. Bind off by knitting when piece measures 44-42-41-40-39-37 cm / 17 ¼"-16 ½"-16⅛"-15 ¾"-15 ¼"-14 ½" from where sleeve was divided from body (= approx. 4 cm / 1½" rib). Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew on buttons on left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = grey blue
symbols = off white
symbols = black
symbols = grey
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, work the yarn over twisted on next row
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (58)

country flag Nath wrote:

Bonjour, J’aimerais faire ce modèle en coton pour l’été A priori en groupe B il faudrait prendre de la muscat L’échantillon semble être pareil que pour la lima Je n’aurais donc, si l’échantillon est égal, rien à changer aux explications ? Merci 🤗

08.06.2024 - 15:52

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nath, tout à fait, utilisez juste le convertisseur pour vérifier les quantités. Bon tricot!

10.06.2024 - 07:55

country flag Susan D Bramer wrote:

I'm having trouble interpreting the pattern. I'm making a size L sweater. Where the directions say A2(=6 stitches) over the next 12 stitches(=2 times in total), I'm confused. I see the beginning six stitches on the A2 diagram, but then "over the next 12 stitches" confuses me.

01.04.2024 - 23:28

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs D Braemer, this measn you will have to repeat A.2 2 times in width there, to get 6 sts x 2 = 12 sts in A.2. Happy knitting!

02.04.2024 - 15:59

country flag Teresa wrote:

Thank you for your reply. What is the total number of stitches that should be on my needles after row 7 on A1,A2,A3. For an xxl?

11.03.2024 - 15:52

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Teresa, on row 7 in A.2, XL there are 7 sts as you have increased 2 sts (1 stitch on row 3 + 1 stitch on row 5); on row 7 in A.3 XL you will have 13 sts as you have increased 1 stitch on row 3 - and you will increase 1 stitch on 7th row in each A.3 to get 14 sts after row 7 is done. Happy knitting!

11.03.2024 - 16:09

country flag Teresa wrote:

I am knitting the sheep happens cardigan size xxl. This is my first stranded color project. Can you tell me how many stitches should be on my needles before the first white row? I am afraid if I did something wrong and don’t have the right number of stitches it will mess up the design. Thank you.

11.03.2024 - 14:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Teresa, to help you keeping tracking of the number of stitches after each increase row you can add markers after each diagram, so that you can get sure; before the first row with off white you should have increased 2 sts in each A.2 and in each A.3 (7 sts in each A.2 and 14 sts in each A.3). Happy knitting!

11.03.2024 - 15:47

country flag Susan D Bramer wrote:

I'm trying to work out how much yarn I will need for this sweater. Is the total 750 grams of the 9015 gray yarn, or do I need 3500 grams?

03.03.2024 - 20:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Bramer, in size XXXL you will need 750 g DROPS Lima in colour 9015 (=750/50=15 balls) + 100 g colour 6235 (= 2 balls) + 1 ball in each of both colours 0100 and 8903. Happy knitting!

04.03.2024 - 09:45

country flag Deirdre wrote:

Hello! Not sure if I am reading the pattern wrong. I've just finished knitting A.1 to A.3 and I have to knit a WS row before starting A.4 and A.5. is it correct that I would increase on the WS row as well as in the first row of A.5? So basically two increase rows right next to each other?

15.02.2024 - 03:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Deirdre, that's correct, first increase evenly on the row from wrong side then increase on first row in A.5 as shown in diagram. Happy knitting!

15.02.2024 - 08:32

country flag Virginie wrote:

Bonjour.je n'arrive pas a faire les augmentations du début de l'empiècement a partir du .j'ai relu plusieurs fois depuis 3 jours🙄😁

11.02.2024 - 16:31

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Virginie, les toutes premières augmentations de l'empiècement se font à intervalles réguliers, retrouvez ici comment et où augmenter. Les augmentations suivantes se feront ensuite via les diagrammes = on fait 1 jeté que l'on tricote torse au rang suivant. Bon tricot!

20.02.2024 - 09:11

country flag Laurie Dyck wrote:

Hi, I am knitting this cute sweater now in size S. In the yoke near the sheep I noticed the model picture has a row or two of black in the 5 stitch band. I haven't found that the pattern includes this. Is this correct or an option?

09.02.2024 - 17:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Dyck, there are a total of 3 rows with black, see diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3, the black squares. Happy knitting!

12.02.2024 - 07:11

country flag Catherine wrote:

Hi, I'd like to make this pattern, but I can't seem to see on it where it states how many balls of each colour I'll need. I want to make it in a UK size 16-18. Many thanks.

01.02.2024 - 13:58

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Catherine, you will find the total weight required in each colour for each size under the header, so that for ex you need in S 450 g DROPS Lima/50 g a ball = 9 balls color 9015. Happy knitting!

01.02.2024 - 15:56

country flag Elizabeth wrote:

I am about to start the Sheep Happens Cardigan and I am unsure how many stitches to cast on at the very start. The size will be small and it says cast on 100. Will that be 100 in total which will include the band stitches, or 100 stitches + 10 stitches for the band, which will be 110 stitches? Many thanks

28.05.2023 - 12:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Elizabeth, the 100 stitches to cast on in S include the 5 front band stitches on each side, this means you don't need to cast on 10 extra stitches. Happy knitting!

30.05.2023 - 10:44