DROPS / 191 / 6

Seaside Dreamer by DROPS Design

Knitted circle jacket with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk.

DROPS Design: Pattern no bs-140
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
500-550-650 g color 7402, light sea green

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLES (40, 60 and 80 cm / 16", 24'' and 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
Comments (16)

70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 6.80 $ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 6.80 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 68.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

INCREASE TIP:
Start 1 stitch before the marker thread. Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
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CIRCLE JACKET:
The jacket is worked in the round from the middle of the motif (the back), then back and forth in each side. The sleeves are worked separately and sewn on to finish.

Cast on 8 stitches with BabyAlpaca Silk and divide them between 4 double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work according to A.1 (= 8 repeats of A.1 on the round). Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round. Work up to and including the round before the arrow in A.1= 128 stitches on the needle. From the round with the arrow, work A.2 after each A.1 as follows: Work * A.1 over the first/next 15 stitches as before, work A.2 over the next stitch *, work from *-* a total of 8 times. Continue the pattern like this. The stitches in A.1 are worked into A.2 at the same time as you increase on each side of A.2 (the increases are drawn in the diagram). Work up to and including the round with a star in A.1. Now all the stitches in A.1, apart from the middle 5, have been worked into A.2.
Cut the strand and begin the next round 5 stitches to the left, so that the first stitch in A.2 is the beginning of the round. Continue with A.1 and A.2; when A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, repeat A.1a to finished length. Change to circular needle when you have enough stitches. Continue until the piece measures a total of 34-36-38 cm / 13 3/8"-14 1/8"-14 7/8" in diameter, adjust so that next round is a round with increases. Now work armholes as follows (there are approx. 256-272-288 stitches on the needle): Increase as before, i.e. when binding off for armholes increase over these stitches, i.e. make yarn overs that are to be bind off. On next round cast on for the armhole, cast on the same amount of stitches as where bind off for armhole (including the increases), i.e count the stitches that where bind off.
Work pattern as before over the first 37-39-42 stitches, bind off the next 44-48-52 stitches for armhole (the number of stitches is without the increases, these increases come in addition to the stitches), work pattern as before until there are 81-87-94 stitches left, bind off the next 44-48-52 stitches for armhole (the number of stitches is without the increases, these increases come in addition to the stitches), work pattern over the last 37-39-42 stitches. On the next round cast on the same amount of stitches that was bind off for armhole (i.e. 44-48-52 stitches + increases that come in addition to the stitches) over the bind-off stitches. Continue with pattern as before. When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height (there are now 352 stitches on the needle), continue with A.3 over A.2 (A.1a continued as before). When A.3 has been worked 1 time in height, repeat the top 12 rounds of A.3; you increase as before every 4th round and you continue working rows of holes and garter stitch.

Continue with A.3 and A.1a until the piece measures 96-100-104 cm / 37 ¾"-39 3/8"-40 7/8", there are approx. 672-696-720 stitches on the needle. Now divide for the front pieces as follows: bind off the first 54-56-58 stitches, work the next 162-168-174 stitches (= left front piece), bind off stitches until you have 216-224-232 stitches left, work the next 162-168-174 stitches (= right front piece), place these stitches on a thread and bind off the last 54-56-58 stitches. Cut and fasten the strand.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Continue with pattern back and forth over the 162-168-174 stitches; adjust on row 1 so that the purled stitches in the ridges are now knitted from the wrong side. AT THE SAME TIME as the first 2 stitches at the beginning of each row are bind off (= 2 stitches bind off on each row). Continue the pattern and to bind off like this until the piece measures a total of 63-66-69 cm / 24 ¾"-26"-27 1/8" from the middle of the circle (i.e. the front piece measures approx. 15-16-17 cm / 5 7/8"-6 ¼"-6 5/8") = approx. 66-66-66 stitches left on the needle. Bind off the remaining stitches.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work as for the left front piece.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle. Cast on 48-56-64 stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 and BabyAlpaca Silk. Work 3 RIDGES – see description above, then work A.4 over all stitches (= 6-7-8 repeats in width). When A.4 has been worked 1 time in height continue with stockinette stitch over all stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve). When the piece measures 5 cm / 2'' increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread - read INCREASE TIP. Increase every 6th round a total of 18-19-20 times = 84-94-104 stitches. When the piece measures 43-43-42 cm / 16 7/8"-16 7/8"-16 ½" bind off 4 stitches on each side of the marker thread and continue working back and forth on circular needle = 76-86-96 stitches. Bind off for the sleeve cap at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: 2 stitches 7-7-8 times, 1 stitch 5-7-9 times and 2 stitches in each side until the piece measures 56-57-58 cm / 22"-22 3/8"-22 ¾". Bind off the remaining stitches and work the other sleeve in the same way.


ASSEMBLY:
Gather together the 8 stitches at the beginning of the piece. Sew in the sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 19.07.2018
Now all the stitches in A.1, apart from the middle 5, have been worked into A.2. Cut the strand and begin the next round 5 stitches to the left, so that the first stitch in A.2 (not A.1) is the beginning of the round.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; the yarn over is not worked twisted to leave a hole
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; the yarn over is worked twisted to avoid a hole
= knit 2 together
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over (= 2 stitches decreased)
= now all the stitches in A.1, apart from the middle 5, have been worked into A.2




Francoise 15.04.2019 - 18:51:

J'ai réfléchi et c'est au rg 29 que j'ai un probleme lorsque l'on tricote le début du rg 29 A.1 je n'obtiens pas le jeté en décalé par rapport au jeté précédent.

Francoise 15.04.2019 - 08:07:

Pour completer la question je tricote avec la methode magic lopp depuis le debut

Francoise 14.04.2019 - 10:49:

Bonjour je suis à l'ajout de A2 donc rang(rg) 24 . jusqu'au 28 rg c'est ok mais à partir du 29rg les trous du début de a.1 ne sont plus décalés et cela ne forme plus un V avec le coté droit (donc fin du a.2 précédent). Cela fait 2 fois que je recommence. Ne doit on pas décaler le début du rg de A.1 ? Merci

Jenny 09.04.2019 - 14:53:

Thank you for your reply. I was confused because the pattern mentioned casting off at the beginning of each row previously, so I thought that since it was phrased differently that the shaping should've been done at each end of every row to make a steeper decrease

Jenny 09.04.2019 - 00:14:

The sleeve pattern says ".... 2 stitches in each side until the piece measures. ..". Does this means 2 stitches at the beginning and end of each row until the piece measure... If so, how do you recommend casting off the stitches at the end of the row?

DROPS Design 09.04.2019 kl. 06:34:

Dear Jenny, yes, tis mean you need to cast off on both sides of the piece. The simpliest way you can do it is to cast off at every beginning od row, i.e. at the beg of RS row and afterwards at the beg of WS row (it is more comfortable than casting off at the end of row). Happy knitting!

Marlene 10.03.2019 - 18:50:

Hej Jeg har et problem med at spidserne på stjernen bliver skæve og ikke lige som på billedet. Det er ud som at at mit arbejde skubber sig til højre. Jeg er efter pilen og før stjernen i a.1 er der andre der har haft samme problem og hvad er løsningen ? Hilsen marlene

DROPS Design 14.03.2019 kl. 11:36:

Hej Marlene, det er svært at sige hvad der går galt... Men hvis du sørger for at du altid har en glatstrikket maske med en udtagning på hver side hele vejen op i hver rapport, så bør stjernen blive lige. Sæt gerne et mærke i hver overgang, for hver gang du starter på diagrammet igen, og lad den følge med hele vejen op. God fornøjelse!

Romana 26.02.2019 - 10:09:

Ich komme mit den Ärmelabnahme nicht mit denn Maschen Zusammen egal wie ich es rechne Ihr schreibt 256 ergibt niemals wie beschrieben 37,44,81,44,37 auch wenn ich die zugenommen Maschen dazu rechne. komm au mit 250 Maschen dort hin ergibt immer eine ungerade Maschenanzahl

DROPS Design 26.02.2019 kl. 11:21:

Liebe Romana, so stricken Sie die 256 M: die ersten 37 M stricken, die nächsten 44 M abketten, jetzt bis 81 M vor der Rundeende stricken (= dh 94 M stricken), die nächsten 44 M abketten und die letzten 37 M stricken = 37+44+94+44+37=256 M. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Esther 12.01.2019 - 20:50:

Ich möchte diese Jacke aus einem Farbverlaufsgarn Stricken. Gibt es eine Möglichkeit zu errechnen wie viel Garn ich für einen Ärmel brauche, damit das Garn den passenden Verlauf zum Rest der Jacke hat?

DROPS Design 14.01.2019 kl. 10:25:

Liebe Esther, Sie können also entweder DROPS Fabel oder DROPS Delight verwenden - benutzen Sie unseren Garnumrechner um die neue Garnmenge zu kalkulieren. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Evelyne 15.10.2018 - 17:05:

Bonjour, Je souhaiterais réaliser ce modèle avec des points NON ajourés. Que me conseillez vous pour la partie tricoter en rond partie milieu dos? Et pour les côtés tricoter en aller retour? Merci Bonne journée

DROPS Design 16.10.2018 kl. 08:59:

Bonjour Evelyne, si vous voulez tricoter ce modèle sans le point ajouré, vous obtiendrez un résultat similaire à ce modèle dont vous pouvez vous inspirer. Nous ne sommes pas en mesure de pouvoir ajuster chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande individuelle, n'hésitez pas à demander conseil à votre magasin - même par mail ou téléphone - pour toute assistance complémentaire. Bon tricot!

Deligne 20.07.2018 - 17:44:

Bonjour, je rencontre une petite difficulté j en suis au diagramme 3 à peu près au 23 ième rangs et là les motifs ne sont plus alignés du côté gauche j ai le bon nombre de mailles .mais à l oeil ça n est pas alignés et à droite tout va bien es ce normal ou es ce moi le problème ?? Merci d avance de votre réponse

DROPS Design 23.07.2018 kl. 07:25:

Bonjour Mme Deligne, il est difficile de trouver ce qui ne va pas ainsi, vérifiez qu'à gauche de A.3 vous avez toujours bien vos 2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté les uns au-dessus des autres en diagonale comme pour la diminution du début de A.3. Dans le doute, apportez votre ouvrage à votre magasin (ou envoyez-lui une photo par mail) afin qu'il puisse vous aider. Bon tricot!

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