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Seaside Dreamer by DROPS Design
Knitted circle jacket with lace pattern. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk.
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Yarn group A
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Sizes: S/M – L/XL – XXL/XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
500-550-650 g color 7402, light sea green
The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLES (40, 60 and 80 cm / 16", 24'' and 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.
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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk 70% Alpaca, 30% Silk |
from 6.80 $ /50g | Order | ||||
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DROPS Needles & Hooks | Order | |||||
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PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.
The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.
INCREASE TIP:
Start 1 stitch before the marker thread. Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes.
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CIRCLE JACKET:
The jacket is worked in the round from the middle of the motif (the back), then back and forth in each side. The sleeves are worked separately and sewn on to finish.
Cast on 8 stitches with BabyAlpaca Silk and divide them between 4 double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work according to A.1 (= 8 repeats of A.1 on the round). Insert a marker thread at the beginning of the round. Work up to and including the round before the arrow in A.1= 128 stitches on the needle. From the round with the arrow, work A.2 after each A.1 as follows: Work * A.1 over the first/next 15 stitches as before, work A.2 over the next stitch *, work from *-* a total of 8 times. Continue the pattern like this. The stitches in A.1 are worked into A.2 at the same time as you increase on each side of A.2 (the increases are drawn in the diagram). Work up to and including the round with a star in A.1. Now all the stitches in A.1, apart from the middle 5, have been worked into A.2.
Cut the strand and begin the next round 5 stitches to the left, so that the first stitch in A.2 is the beginning of the round. Continue with A.1 and A.2; when A.1 has been worked 1 time in height, repeat A.1a to finished length. Change to circular needle when you have enough stitches. Continue until the piece measures a total of 34-36-38 cm / 13 3/8"-14 1/8"-14 7/8" in diameter, adjust so that next round is a round with increases. Now work armholes as follows (there are approx. 256-272-288 stitches on the needle): Increase as before, i.e. when binding off for armholes increase over these stitches, i.e. make yarn overs that are to be bind off. On next round cast on for the armhole, cast on the same amount of stitches as where bind off for armhole (including the increases), i.e count the stitches that where bind off.
Work pattern as before over the first 37-39-42 stitches, bind off the next 44-48-52 stitches for armhole (the number of stitches is without the increases, these increases come in addition to the stitches), work pattern as before until there are 81-87-94 stitches left, bind off the next 44-48-52 stitches for armhole (the number of stitches is without the increases, these increases come in addition to the stitches), work pattern over the last 37-39-42 stitches. On the next round cast on the same amount of stitches that was bind off for armhole (i.e. 44-48-52 stitches + increases that come in addition to the stitches) over the bind-off stitches. Continue with pattern as before. When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height (there are now 352 stitches on the needle), continue with A.3 over A.2 (A.1a continued as before). When A.3 has been worked 1 time in height, repeat the top 12 rounds of A.3; you increase as before every 4th round and you continue working rows of holes and garter stitch.
Continue with A.3 and A.1a until the piece measures 96-100-104 cm / 37 ¾"-39 3/8"-40 7/8", there are approx. 672-696-720 stitches on the needle. Now divide for the front pieces as follows: bind off the first 54-56-58 stitches, work the next 162-168-174 stitches (= left front piece), bind off stitches until you have 216-224-232 stitches left, work the next 162-168-174 stitches (= right front piece), place these stitches on a thread and bind off the last 54-56-58 stitches. Cut and fasten the strand.
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Continue with pattern back and forth over the 162-168-174 stitches; adjust on row 1 so that the purled stitches in the ridges are now knitted from the wrong side. AT THE SAME TIME as the first 2 stitches at the beginning of each row are bind off (= 2 stitches bind off on each row). Continue the pattern and to bind off like this until the piece measures a total of 63-66-69 cm / 24 ¾"-26"-27 1/8" from the middle of the circle (i.e. the front piece measures approx. 15-16-17 cm / 5 7/8"-6 ¼"-6 5/8"). Bind off the remaining stitches.
RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work as for the left front piece.
SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked in the round with double pointed needles/short circular needle. Cast on 48-56-64 stitches with double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5 and BabyAlpaca Silk. Work 3 RIDGES – see description above, then work A.4 over all stitches (= 6-7-8 repeats in width). When A.4 has been worked 1 time in height continue with stockinette stitch over all stitches. Insert 1 marker thread at the beginning of the round (= mid under sleeve). When the piece measures 5 cm / 2'' increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread - read INCREASE TIP. Increase every 6th round a total of 18-19-20 times = 84-94-104 stitches. When the piece measures 43-43-42 cm / 16 7/8"-16 7/8"-16 ½" bind off 4 stitches on each side of the marker thread and continue working back and forth on circular needle = 76-86-96 stitches. Bind off for the sleeve cap at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: 2 stitches 7-7-8 times, 1 stitch 5-7-9 times and 2 stitches in each side until the piece measures 56-57-58 cm / 22"-22 3/8"-22 ¾". Bind off the remaining stitches and work the other sleeve in the same way.
ASSEMBLY:
Gather together the 8 stitches at the beginning of the piece. Sew in the sleeves.
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..
Now all the stitches in A.1, apart from the middle 5, have been worked into A.2. Cut the strand and begin the next round 5 stitches to the left, so that the first stitch in A.2 (not A.1) is the beginning of the round.
Diagram
All measurements in charts are in cm.
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= knit from right side, purl from wrong side |
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= purl from right side, knit from wrong side |
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= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; the yarn over is not worked twisted to leave a hole |
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= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over; the yarn over is worked twisted to avoid a hole |
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= knit 2 together |
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= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over |
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= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over (= 2 stitches decreased) |
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= now all the stitches in A.1, apart from the middle 5, have been worked into A.2 |
Do you need help with this pattern?
Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 191-6) for measurements and calculations.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Comments / Questions (33)
From the #dropsfan gallery
Seaside Dreamer
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We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.
With over 30 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 281 catalogs and 10519 patterns - 10515 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Hei, En pääse eteenpäin kohdasta, jossa A2 mallin silmukoita lisätään A1:n jälkeen. A1 kapenee, niin kuin pitääkin, mutta A1:n kummankin puolen olevat oikeat silmukat lisäävät A2:n leveyttä niin, että seuraavalla kerroksella siinä on liikaa silmukoita. Mitä teen väärin? Suuri kiitos avusta!
18.12.2020 - 15:16Hei, olen jäänyt jumiin kohtaan, jossa aloitetaan A2- mallin lisäykset A1n jälkeen. A1 kapenee, niin kuin pitääkin, mutta kavennusten ulkopuolelle jäävät oikeat silmukat kasvattavat A2 mallin leveyttä liikaa siten, ettei malli seuraavalla keralla enää toimi. Neulon muutaman kerroksen ja puran. Neulon ja puran, mutta ongelma pysyy. Saisinko tähän apua? Kovasti haluaisin työn tehdä. Kiitos
18.12.2020 - 07:08In order to make symmetrical front pieces, shouldn't there be considered 5 stitches of A1a when making start for 2nd front piece?: My suggestion: Cast off the first 54-56-58 stitches, work the next 162-168-174 stitches (= left front piece), cast off stitches until you have 221-229-237 stitches left, work the next 162-168-174 stitches (= right front piece), place these stitches on a thread and cast off the last 59-61-63 stitches.
23.08.2020 - 17:31Ah, thank you for the solution and the amazingly fast response. This garment is unusual and beautiful but it would be really helpful if the charts were side by side to save constant scrolling up and down and to clearly see how they line up. Thank you.
28.01.2020 - 12:35Hello. I have knitted to the point near the beginning of the design where the large arrow points to chart A1 then included the first three rounds including chart A2. Then chart A1 appears to reduce in width by two stitches every 2nd row thus reducing the number of stitches between the ssk & k2tog. BUT with the YO at each side of chart A1 cancelling out the ssk/k2tog, the same number of stitches remain, not reduce . Please explain how it should work. Thank you
27.01.2020 - 23:22DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Linskill, you are right, but from the row with the arrow you will now work less stitches between the yarn over and the decrease (to make the top of leaf), so that there will be "extra" stitches outside from the leaf that will be worked in A.2. Happy knitting!
28.01.2020 kl. 10:42Bonsoir, j'ai vraiment des soucis avec ces diagrammes A1 et A2. Comme Françoise cela fait deux fois que je recommence en pensant que je suis correctement les diagrammes mais au niveau de * de A1 tout le motif est décalé vers la droite. Est-ce qu'un diagramme commun à partir de A2 ne serait pas plus facile à suivre ? J'exécute A1 puis A2 à la suite mais je ne retombe pas juste. Ce diagramme est spécialement dur à suivre en étant sur deux pages en plus. Merci d'avance de votre aide.
08.11.2019 - 17:55DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Borel, au tour avec l'étoile, vous décalez le début du tour: vous coupez le fil et glissez les 5 m de A.1 sur l'aiguille droite sans les tricoter, le début du tour est ici maintenant, commencez par la 1ère m de A.2 comme dans le diagramme et continuez les diagrammes comme avant, mais en tricotant maintenant A.2, A.1 au lieu de A.1, A.2. Bon tricot!
11.11.2019 kl. 09:55Bonjour, je suis au passage où l'on intègre A2 à A1 (ou l'inverse). Sur 8 tours comment dois-je tricoter A1, tout à l'endroit comme le tour avec la flèche ou je redescends de 8 tours dans le diagramme ou encore je continue le diagramme A1 ? Merci de votre attention et réponse.
05.11.2019 - 18:08DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Borel, à la fin du tour avant la flèche vous avez 16 m dans chaque A.1, au tour suivant, vous tricotez: le rang suivant de *A.1 (= 15 m end), A.2 (= 1 m env)* et répétez de *-* tout le tour, vous continuez ensuite les diagrammes: rang suivant de A.1 et 2ème rang de A.2 et ainsi de suite. Bon tricot!
06.11.2019 kl. 08:41Wat een mooi patroon! Ik brei het met plezier. Ik kom alleen niet goed uit bij de armsgaten. Ik heb in totaal 256 steken. Ik moet gewoon doormeerderen er komen dus 16 steken bij deze ronde. Als ik brei en afkant volgens het patroon (37 steken plus meerderingen; 44 steken plus meerderingen enzovoort) houd ik als laatste meer dan 37 steken (plus meerderingen) over. Maak ik een denkfout of hoe kan ik de steken anders verdelen?
31.07.2019 - 11:11DROPS Design answered:
Dag Ingrid,
Als je gaat afkanten voor de armsgaten, dan brei je gewoon verder in patroon. Dus je breit eerst de eerste 37 steken en over deze 37 steken ga je gewoon verder met meerderen. Dan de volgende 44 steken ga je ook gewoon verder in patroon, dus met meerderingen (die bovenop deze 44 steken komen), maar je kant deze 44 steken (plus hun meerderingen) af. Misschien helpt het dat je eerst die 44 steken uittelt en dan een markeerder aan het eind van die steken zet.
31.07.2019 kl. 18:03I have bound off and am working on the left side (it is beautiful!) but I have a question. I'm binding off at the beginning of each row - as indicated - but when I get to the increase rows like #37 and 41 and 45 , do I still do those increases???? Seems counter productive but , if I don't do them, what would the pattern look like in those parts? Thanks!!!
19.07.2019 - 14:03DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Ellis, you have to continue increasing as before to get the pattern continuing, and at the same time you cast off at the beginning of every row (= both from RS and from WS) so that you get a straight front piece - see measurement chart. Happy knitting!
05.08.2019 kl. 16:18Bei dem letzten Absatz des Kreises steht:"... die nächsten 168 Maschen stricken, diese stilllegen, die letzten 56 Maschen stricken." Müssen die letzten 56 Maschen nicht auch angekettet werden, genau so wie die erste 56 Maschen angekettet werden?
14.07.2019 - 17:41DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Friederike, ja genau, diese letzten 56 Maschen sollen abgekettet werden, die deutsche Anleitung wird korrigiert, danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
15.07.2019 kl. 10:46