DROPS / 190 / 29

Queensland Skirt by DROPS Design

Skirt with lace pattern, crocheted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Safran.

Tags: lace, skirts, top down,
DROPS design: Pattern e-277
Yarn group A
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
500-550-600-650-700-750 g color 05, light blue purple

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group A)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 - or size needed to get 22 double crochets x 12 rows = 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 4 pieces for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 2.35 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 2.35 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 23.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

At beginning of every row/round with double crochets replace first double crochet with 3 chain stitches. Finish row with 1 double crochet in 3rd chain stitch from previous row when piece is worked back and forth and finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch from beginning of round when working in the round.

Increase 1 double crochet by working 2 double crochets in same stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on round (e.g. 212 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 40) = 5.3.
In this example increase by working 2 double crochets in approx. every 5th stitch.

See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

Piece is worked back and forth, top down until vent in the side is done, then work in the round until finished measurements.

Work 186-209-232-258-279-305 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Safran.
Work first row as follows: Work 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook, 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, work from *-* until 3-5-7-5-5-3 chain stitches remain, skip 1 chain stitch and finish with 1 double crochet in each of the last 2-4-6-4-4-2 chain stitches = 158-178-198-220-238-260 double crochets.
Then work back and forth with 1 double crochet in every double crochet - read CROCHET INFO and REMEMBER CROCHET GAUGE.
When 5 rows have been worked vertically, insert 6 markers in the piece as follows: Insert first marker after the first 14-14-16-20-21-22 double crochet, then insert the next 5 markers 26-30-33-36-39-43 double crochets apart. After last marker 14-14-17-20-22-23 double crochets remain on row.
On next row increase 1 double crochet before all markers – read INCREASE TIP-1! Increase like this every other row 9-9-10-11-12-13 times in total - NOTE: Increase alternately before and after markers = 212-232-258-286-310-338 double crochets. AT THE SAME TIME when 12 rows in total have been worked vertically, vent in the side is finished. Now work piece in the round, begin round in the side - remember CROCHET INFO!
When piece measures 25-26-27-28-29-30 cm / 9¾''-10¼''-10 5/8''-11''-11 3/8''-11¾'', increase 40-44-30-26-26-34 double crochets evenly - read INCREASE TIP-2 = 252-276-288-312-336-372 double crochets.
Work A.1 in the round (= 21-23-24-26-28-31 repetitions of 12 stitches). AT THE SAME TIME on last round in A.1 increase 52-60-64-72-64-60 double crochets evenly = 304-336-352-384-400-432 double crochets.
Work A.2 in the round (= 19-21-22-24-25-27 repetitions of 16 stitches).
When entire A.2 has been worked, there are 475-525-550-600-625-675 double crochets on round. Now work A.X as shown in A.1 (= 2 rounds). AT THE SAME TIME on last round increase 30-28-39-25-36-34 double crochets evenly = 505-553-589-625-661-709 double crochets.
Work next round as follows: A.3A (= 6 stitches), work A.3B over the next 492-540-576-612-648-696 double crochets (= 41-45-48-51-54-58 repetitions of 12 stitches) and finish with A.3C (= 7 stitches). When A.3 is done, fasten off. Skirt measures approx. 56-57-58-59-60-61 cm from waist and down.

Along the side with vent that belongs to front piece work buttonhole loops as follows (begin from wrong side at the top of waist at the vent): Work 2 single crochets around first double crochet, 3 chain stitches, skip 1 double crochet, * work 2 single crochets around each of the next 2 double crochets, 3 chain stitches, skip 1 double crochet *, work from *-* 3 times in total and finish with 2 single crochets in last double crochets at the bottom of vent. Turn and work as follows from right side: Work 1 single crochet in every single crochet and 3 single crochets around every chain space. Fasten off.

Along the other side of the vent work 5 rows with single crochets back and forth (on 1st row work 2 single crochets around every double crochet = 24 single crochets). Fasten off. Sew the buttons on to the button folding edge.

Work an edge at top of waist on skirt as follows: Begin from right side with 1 slip stitch in outermost stitch at the vent, work 1 chain stitch, * 1 chain stitch, skip 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in next chain stitch *, work from *-* along the entire edge at the top of skirt. Fasten off.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= double crochet in stitch
= double crochet around chain stitch/chain space
= single crochet in stitch
= single crochet around chain stitch/chain space
= 1 treble crochet in stitch
= 1 double treble crochet in stitch
= 1 chain stitch
= 2 chain stitches
= 3 chain stitches
= 4 chain stitches
= 6 chain stitches
= 7 chain stitches
= work 4 double crochets around chain space (do not work the double crochets together)
= work 2 double crochets together in same stitch as follows: Work 1 double crochet in stitch but wait with last yarn over and pull through (there are now 2 loops on hook), work 1 double crochet in same stitch, but now pull last yarn over through all 3 loops on hook
= work 3 double crochets together as follows: Work 1 double crochet in each of the next 3 stitches but wait with last yarn over and pull through on all three double crochets, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn over trough all 4 loops on hook
= work 4 double crochets together as follows: Work 1 double crochet in each of the next 4 stitches but wait with last yarn over and pull through on all four double crochets, make 1 yarn over and pull yarn over trough all 5 loops on hook
= 1 picot: Work 3 chain stitches, work 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch worked
= 1st round begins here
= this round has already been worked

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 190-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

Yvonne 31.08.2020 - 11:57:

Lovely pattern but is there an error on A2, lines 7 and 8? There seems to be a symbol for a 7 chain link but this does not look right - I did both rows. A 2 chain link looks much better on the revised row I am doing. Have I misread the pattern? Thanks. PS you can see the difference between the photo on the pattern and the one sent in by Be from Germany.

DROPS Design 31.08.2020 kl. 12:52:

Dear Yvonne, you are suppose to crochet here 2 chains (= 8th symbol in diagram key) and not 7 chains (= 12th symbol). Happy crocheting!

Farni 27.08.2020 - 09:34:

Hi, I crochet the small size with hook 3.5 but it’s still too big, is there a way I can get even smaller size ?

DROPS Design 27.08.2020 kl. 10:17:

Dear Farni, did you get the correct tension? You should have 22 treble crochets (UK-English terminology) x 12 rows = 10 x 10 cm - read more about tension here. Happy crocheting!

Marybell Cruz 26.04.2019 - 22:18:

Is there any way i can print out this pattern

DROPS Design 28.04.2019 kl. 11:56:

Dear Marybell, you can print it via button with printer symbol just under the material tab, above the text of te pattern. Happy crocheting!

Andrea Viehweger 20.03.2019 - 13:57:

Guten Tag, gerne möchte ich mir Queensland Skirt häkeln. Meine Hüft- und Tallienmaße liegen genau zwischen Größe M und L. Gibt es eine Möglichkeit den Schnitt anzupassen? Freundliche Grüße, Andrea Viehweger

DROPS Design 20.03.2019 kl. 15:45:

Liebe Frau Viehweger, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage anpassen, aber gerne wird Ihnen Ihr DROPS Laden weiterhelfen (auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail). Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Frieda Schouwenburg 20.03.2019 - 13:39:

Ik heb de knoopvouwrand gehaakt moet ik die nu naar binnen vouwen? Dit stukje snap ik niet.

DROPS Design 21.03.2019 kl. 16:48:

Dag Frieda

Ja, deze vouw je naar binnen en vervolgens naai je de knopen op de dubbel laag stof.

Morgane 22.02.2019 - 12:21:

Bonjour. J'ai un doute concernant la partie A3: doit-on faire des allers et retour, ou crocheter en rond? Certains rangs commencent par des doubles brides et se terminent par des mailles en l'air qui se rattachent à la double bride du rang précédent... merci.

DROPS Design 26.02.2019 kl. 14:35:

Bonjour Morgane, merci pour votre retour, les diagrammes A.3A et A.3C vont être modifiés car ils se crochètent effectivement en rond, pas en rangs. Bon crochet!

Josefin 21.02.2019 - 14:36:

Vid den första omgången ökningar så står det att man ska öka 9 gånger (för storlek S) till totalt 212 stolpar. Sedan när arbetet är 25 cm långt ska man göra nästa omgång ökningar. Betyder detta att man efter de första 9 ökningsvarven ska fortsätta att virka "raka varv" (alltså varv utan ökningar) fram till att arbetet mäter 25 cm? Eller är det meningen att arbetet redan ska vara 25 cm långt när de 9 ökningarna är gjorda?

DROPS Design 21.02.2019 kl. 17:06:

Du ska öka på vartannat varv 9 gånger. När dessa varv med ökningar är klara fortsätter du virka utan ökningar tills arbetet mäter 25 cm.

Ailey 12.02.2019 - 05:10:

Bonjour Je souhaiterais comprendre comment faire la bordure, car on me dit de faire 1m en l'air d'en sauter 1 et de faire 1m serré dans la maille en l'air suivante Seulement le premier rang est fait de 1m en l'air et de 6Bride donc 1m en l'air toute les 6 brides donc comment cela ce passe t'il? Merci d'avance

DROPS Design 05.03.2019 kl. 12:27:

Bonjour Ailey, sautez 1 maille/la largeur de votre maille en l'air pour que la bordure soit nette et ne resserre pas. Bon crochet!

Marie-Laure 31.01.2019 - 09:27:

Est ce possible de continuer la jupe pour en faire une jupe longue ? Cordialement.

DROPS Design 31.01.2019 kl. 09:35:

Bonjour Marie-Laure, probablement, vous devrez juste rajouter quelques rangs supplémentaires correspondant à la longueur souhaitée, par ex le nombre de rangs en brides avant les points ajourés. N'hésitez pas à demander conseil à votre magasin - même par mail ou téléphone. Bon crochet!

Emma Hunt 13.07.2018 - 17:57:

I’m using safari on iOS 11.4 Thank you so much for your help. I have identified it on the diagram. Emma :)

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 190-29

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.