DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Primrose Skirt

Skirt with lace pattern, crocheted top down. Size: S - XXXL Piece is crocheted in DROPS Muskat.

DROPS 190-27
DROPS design: Pattern r-728
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color no 29, old pink

Piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS CROCHET Hook size 4 mm / G/6 - or size needed to get 18 double crochets x 9 rows = 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 521: 4 pieces for all sizes
Categories:
Women Skirts
Keywords:
assembly free lace top down

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Muskat
DROPS Muskat
100% Cotton
from 1.95 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 15.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagram A.1 shows how round begins and ends. Begin and end 2nd and 6th round as follows:
Begin round with 1 slip stitch in each of the first 2 double crochets and 3 chain stitch (replace first double crochet), finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.
On 8th round do not replace the 3 chain stitches in A.1 with first double crochet in A.2. On the remaining rounds first stitch in A.2 is replaced with A.1.

CROCHET INFO:
When working back and forth, work as follows:
Begin every double crochet row with 3 chain stitches (replaces first double crochet).
Begin every single crochet row with 1 chain stitch (does not replace first single crochet).
When working in the round, work as follows:
At beginning of every round with double crochet replace first double crochet with 3 chain stitches. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in 3rd chain stitch at beginning of round.
On every round with single crochets replace first single crochet with 1 chain stitch. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round.

INCREASE TIP: 
Work 1 double crochet in first double crochet, work 2 double crochets in next double crochet (= 1 double crochet increased), work 1 double crochet in every double crochet until 2 double crochets remain before marker thread, work 2 double crochets in next double crochet (= 1 double crochet increased), work 1 double crochet in each of the next 2 double crochets (marker thread is in the middle of these stitches), work 2 double crochets in next double crochet (= 1 double crochet increased), work until 2 double crochets on row/round, work 2 double crochets in next double crochet (= 1 double crochet increased) and 1 double crochet in next double crochet (= 4 double crochets increased in total on row/round).
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SKIRT:
Work top down. First work back and forth from vent in the side, then work in the round.
Work 153-169-186-207-232-258 chain stitches (including 3 chain stitches to turn with) on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with Muskat. Work 1 double crochet in 4th chain stitch from hook (= 2 double crochets) - read CROCHET INFO, work 1 double crochet in each of the next 2-4-0-0-4-2 chain stitches, * skip 1 chain stitch, 1 double crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches *, repeat from *-* =
= 130-144-158-176-198-220 double crochets. Insert 1 marker thread after 65-72-79-88-99-110 stitches (= the side).
Continue with 1 double crochet in every double crochet. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When piece measures 5 cm / 2'', increase 1 double crochet at beginning of row/round, 1 double crochet on each side of marker thread and 1 double crochet at the end of row/round (= 4 double crochets increased) – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 1½ cm 18-18-17-16-19-20 times in total = 202-216-226-240-274-300 double crochets. AT THE SAME TIME when 9 rows with double crochets have been worked, work in the round. When piece measures 33-35-37-39-41-43 cm / 13''-13 3/4''-14½''-15 1/4''-16 1/8''-17'', increase 2-0-2-0-2-0 double crochets evenly on next round = 204-216-228-240-276-300 double crochets.
When piece measures 34-36-38-40-42-44 cm / 13 3/8''-14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17 ¼'' / 13 3/8''-14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17 ¼'', work A.2 over all stitches (= 34-36-38-40-46-50 times in width). Diagram A.1 shows how every round begins and ends. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, piece measures approx. 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm / 18''-19''-19¾''-20½''-21¼''-22''. Fasten off.

BUTTONHOLE LOOPS:
Along the opening on front piece work buttonhole loops as follows (begin at the bottom): Fasten yarn with 1 slip stitch in first double crochet, 1 chain stitch (does not replace first single crochet - remember crochet info), work 2 single crochets around first double crochet, 3 chain stitches, skip 1 double crochet, * work 2 single crochets around next double crochet, 3 chain stitches, skip 1 double crochet *, work from *-* 2 more times and finish with 2 single crochets around last double crochet at the top, turn and work back as follows: 1 single crochet in every single crochet and 3 single crochets around every chain space. Fasten off.

BUTTON FOLDING EDGE:
Along the other side of the opening work 5 rows with single crochets back and forth (on 1st row work 2 single crochets around every double crochet = 18 single crochets), fasten off. Sew the buttons on to the button folding edge.

EDGE:
Work an edge at top of waist on skirt as follows from right side: Fasten yarn with 1 slip stitch at the edge of button folding edge, 1 chain stitch, * 1 chain stitch, skip 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in next chain stitch *, work *-* along the entire waist, adjust to finish with 1 single crochet in last stitch. Fasten off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = chain stitch
symbols = single crochet in stitch
symbols = single crochet between 2 double crochets
symbols = single crochet around chain space
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = double crochet around chain stitch/chain space
symbols = slip stitch
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (12)

country flag Alexia wrote:

Wie soll es funktionieren alle, alle 1,5 cm die 4 Maschen zu Zunehmen? Eine Reihe ist 1,1 cm hoch, das heißt man kann nicht alle 1,5 cm zunehmen, entweder in jeder Reihe zunehmen , das wären alle 1,1 cm oder jede 2. Reihe, das wären 2,2 cm?

10.08.2023 - 19:36

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Alexia, dann können Sie abwechslungsweise in jeder Runde und in jeder 2. Runde zunehmen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

11.08.2023 - 09:41

country flag Alexia wrote:

Ich habe Probleme mit der Beschreibung Rundenbeginn 2. Und 6. Runde. Sollen wirklich erst zwei Kettmaschen gehäkelt werden und dann erst die 3 Luftmaschen, die der Rundenbeginn sein sollen? Wenn das so ist welches ist das erste der zwei Stäbchen, in das die Kettmaschen sollen, zählen die 3 Luftmaschen der Vorrunde als erstes Stäbchen oder erst das erste “richtige” Stäbchen nehmen?

10.08.2023 - 19:33

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Alexia, die Luftmaschen in A.1 ersetzen die 1. Masche, so am Anfang der 2. Reihe häkeln Sie 1 Kettmasche in jeder vom 2. ersten Stäbchen, dann 3 Luftmaschen (= 1. Stäbchen), und dann 1 Luftmasche, 1 Stäbchen in dieselbe Masche, usw. Genauso wird bei der 6. Reihe gehäkelt, so häkeln Sie in das 1. Stäbchen der Runde: 3 Luftmaschen (=1. Stäbchen) + 2 Stäbchen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

11.08.2023 - 09:40

country flag Flor wrote:

Hola Hermosa falda. ¿Tendrían algún patrón de un top con los mismos puntos para combinar con esta falda y hacer un conjunto? Gracias

21.10.2022 - 17:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Flor, este modelo no dispone de un top a conjunto y no hacemos patrones personalizados.

22.10.2022 - 18:36

country flag Kim Reamey wrote:

This is 1st time trying to crochet a clothing item. I have no clue how to follow this written pattern. I'm used to reading R1, R2, R3 etc. Have no idea how to do this. I would need a XL or XXL. I have a big butt. This is the 1st skirt I have really liked, with all the ones I've looked at.

25.04.2022 - 16:24

country flag Iride Scudellari wrote:

Buonasera, non sono sicura di aver capito come fare gli aumenti nei giri successivi. Vanno fatti in corrispondenza degli aumenti delle righe sottostanti o devo lasciare costanti le due maglie alte tra le coppie di aumenti? Grazie Iride

13.05.2020 - 21:23

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Iride. Deve lasciare costanti le 2 maglie alte tra gli aumenti. Buon lavoro!

13.05.2020 - 22:34

country flag Iride wrote:

Buonasera, non sono sicura di aver capito come fare gli aumenti nei giri successivi. Vanno fatti in corrispondenza degli aumenti delle righe sottostanti o devo lasciare costanti le due maglie alte tra le coppie di aumenti? Grazie

13.05.2020 - 21:14

country flag Tamsin Davidson wrote:

Thank you for your response. On the Rav--- website, this pattern (and other DROPS design patterns) are in the category for teens aged 13-17 years old. The S size on your patterns is still too big for many teenagers though. How is the pattern converted to fit a 13 year old?

09.12.2019 - 11:18

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Davidson, this pattern can be made/worn for a teenager, but pattern starts with size S. We are unfortunately not able to adapt every pattern to every single request; should you need any assistance to adapt this pattern, please contact your DROPS store - even par mail or telephone. Happy crocheting!

09.12.2019 - 11:33

country flag Tamsin wrote:

I would like to crochet a skirt for waist measurement of 60cm or 23.6 inches and hips 70cm or 27.5 inches. The size S waist measurement on the Primrose pattern is 36 inches and, for example, size S hip on Rosalina is 47 inches . Can you please clarify the sizing of your patterns for teenagers? Thanks so much.

08.12.2019 - 11:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Tamsin, the measurement in chart are given in cm - convert here into inches - compare a similar garment the girl has and likes the shapes and compare these to the measurements in chart. Happy crocheting!

09.12.2019 - 09:14

country flag Tamsin wrote:

I am trying to ask a question about your skirt sizing for teenagers, but I receive an error "Your comment contains links or forbidden words!" - which it doesn't. I'm not sure why the error appears. Can I email you my question instead perhaps? Thanks for your help.

08.12.2019 - 10:57

country flag Sarah wrote:

Lovely skirt!

08.12.2019 - 10:54