DROPS / 188 / 10

Sweet Twist by DROPS Design

Knitted sweater with wrapped front pieces. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Alpaca + DROPS Kid-Silk.

DROPS Design: Pattern no z-824
Yarn group C or A + A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g color 100, off white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
25-50-50-50-50-50 g color 01, off white
75-100-100-100-125-125 g color 03, light pink

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 224'' or 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 – or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height with 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 41.70$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (for neck):
Decrease for neck inside the 3 edge stitches in garter stitch. All decreases are made from the right side!
Decrease as follows before the 3 edge stitches: Knit 2 together.
Decrease as follows after the 3 edge stitches: Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

INCREASE TIP (for sleeves):
All increases are made from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row, purl the yarn over twisted to avoid a hole.
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SWEATER:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle. The front pieces cross each other mid front. Both the front pieces are worked top down, from the one shoulder to the opposite hip. The back piece is worked bottom up. The sleeves are worked back and forth with circular needle, bottom up.

PINK FRONT PIECE – WORKED FROM RIGHT SHOULDER DOWN TO LEFT HIP:
Cast on 2 stitches with Alpaca and light pink Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work back and forth in stockinette stitch, AT THE SAME TIME as you cast on new stitches at the end of each row as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Knit all stitches, cast on 1 stitch at the end of the row.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl all stitches, cast on 1 stitch at the end of the row.
ROW 3: Knit all stitches, cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row.
ROW 4: Purl all stitches, cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row.
You have now increased 6 stitches and there are 8 stitches on the needle.
Repeat rows 1-4 a total of 6-7-7-9-10-11 times = 38-44-44-56-62-68 stitches.
Sizes XL and XXL are now finished.

Continue working in sizes S, M, L and XXXL as follows:
Continue with stockinette stitch and cast on 1 new stitch at the end of each row in each side 1-1-3-1 times = 40-46-50-70 stitches.

All sizes:
There are now 40-46-50-56-62-70 stitches on the needle. Now work from the right side as follows:
Knit until there are 5 stitches left on the row, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), 3 stitches in garter stitch (= towards neck). Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and 3 stitches in garter stitch towards the neck, AT THE SAME TIME decrease 1 stitch inside the 3 stitches in garter stitch towards the neck every 2nd row a total of 9 times and cast on stitches at the end of every row from the wrong side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 4-4-3-5-3-1 times and 2 stitches 5-4-4-2-2-2 times. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!

When all stitches have been cast on and the decreases towards the neck are finished, there are 45-49-52-56-60-66 stitches on the needle. Insert a marker thread here in the right-hand side of piece seen from the right side of work! THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and 3 stitches in garter stitch on each side of the piece. When the piece measures 40-42-45-47-51-54 cm / 15 3/4"-16 1/2"-17 3/4"-18 1/2"-20"-21 1/4" - adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side, insert a marker thread at the end of the row from the right side (used for assembly). Now bind off stitches at the beginning of each row from the wrong side as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): knit all stitches.
ROW 2 (wrong side): bind off 2 stitches, purl remaining stitches.
ROW 3: knit all stitches.
ROW 4: bind off 3 stitches, purl remaining stitches.
Repeat rows 1-4 a total of 5-7-6-6-2-2 times, then bind off 2 stitches at the beginning of every row from the wrong side until all stitches have been bind off.
Cut the strand and thread it through the last stitch on the needle.


OFF WHITE FRONT PIECE – WORKED FROM LEFT SHOULDER DOWN TO RIGHT HIP:
The piece is worked in the same way as the first front piece, but reversed. In other words, you work as follows:
Cast on 2 stitches with Alpaca and off white Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work back and forth in stockinette stitch, AT THE SAME TIME as you cast on new stitches at the end of each row as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): Knit all stitches, cast on 1 stitch at the end of the row.
ROW 2 (wrong side): Purl all stitches, cast on 1 stitch at the end of the row.
ROW 3: Knit all stitches, cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row.
ROW 4: Purl all stitches, cast on 2 stitches at the end of the row.
You have now increased 6 stitches and there are 8 stitches on the needle.
Repeat rows 1-4 a total of 6-7-7-9-10-11 times = 38-44-44-56-62-68 stitches.
Sizes XL and XXL are now finished

Continue in sizes S, M, L and XXXL as follows:
Continue with stockinette stitch and cast on 1 new stitch at the end of each row in each side 1-1-3-1 times = 40-46-50-70 stitches.

All sizes:
There are now 40-46-50-56-62-70 stitches on the needle. Now work from the right side as follows:
Work 3 stitches in garter stitch (= towards the neck), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over, knit to end of row.
Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and 3 stitches in garter stitch towards the neck, AT THE SAME TIME decrease 1 stitch inside the 3 stitches in garter stitch towards the neck every 2nd row a total of 9 times and cast on at the end of each row from the right side as follows: Cast on 1 stitch 4-4-3-5-3-1 times and 2 stitches 5-4-4-2-2-2 times.

When all the stitches are cast on and the decreases are finished, there are 45-49-52-56-60-66 stitches on the needle. Insert a marker here in left-hand side of piece seen from right side of work! THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Continue back and forth with stockinette stitch and 3 stitches in garter stitch in each side of the piece. When the piece measures 40-42-45-47-51-54 cm / 15 3/4"-16 1/2"-17 3/4"-18 1/2"-20"-21 1/4" - adjust to match the other front piece and so that the next row is worked from the right side, insert a marker thread at the beginning of the row from the right side. Now bind off stitches at the beginning of each row from the right side as follows:
ROW 1 (right side): bind off 2 stitches, knit remaining stitches.
ROW 2 (wrong side): purl all stitches.
ROW 3: bind off 3 stitches, knit remaining stitches
ROW 4: purl all stitches.
Repeat rows 1-4 a total of 5-7-6-6-2-2 times, then bind off 2 stitches at the beginning of every row from right side until all stitches have been bind off.
Cut the strand and thread it through the last stitch on the needle.


BACK PIECE:
Cast on 84-90-98-106-117-127 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and 1 strand Alpaca + 1 strand light pink Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 2 ridges. Then work stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When the piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-34 cm / 11"-11 3/8"-11 ¾"-12 1/8"-12 ½"-13 3/8" insert a marker in each side (used for assembly). Continue until the piece measures 40-41-42-43-44-45 cm / 15¾''-16 1/8''-16½''-17''-17¼''-17¾''. Insert a new marker in each side (used for assembly = marks the armhole in each side). Continue working until the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm / 19 3/4''-20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''. Now work garter stitch over the middle 28-28-30-30-31-31 stitches on the row; the remaining stitches are continued in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. Continue like this until you have worked 2 ridges over the middle stitches. On the next row bind off the middle 24-24-26-26-27-27 stitches for the neck and each shoulder is finished separately. Then decrease 1 stitch inside the 3 stitches in garter stitch on the next row from the neck - read DECREASE TIP = 29-32-35-39-44-49 stitches on shoulder. Continue until the piece measures a total of 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''. Bind off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 38-40-41-43-44-47 stitches with circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand light pink Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 2 ridges. Then work stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When the piece measures 9-7-6-6-6-4 cm / 3 ½"-2 ¾"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-1 ½" increase 1 stitch inside the 1edge stitch in garter stitch in each side – read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 10th-9th-8th-7th-6th-6th row a total of 9-10-11-12-13-13 times = 56-60-63-67-70-73 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 49-48-46-45-43-41 cm / 19 ¼"-18 7/8"-18"-17 5/8"-16 7/8"-16 1/8". Bind off.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Place the back piece on a table, with the right side facing down and the wrong side up.

Assembly of the off white front piece:
Place the off white front piece on top of the back piece with the wrong side towards the back piece and the right side up. The off white front piece should lie so that it slopes from the left shoulder down to the right hip - see sketch and picture! Make sure that the marker thread on the left side of the off white front piece matches the marker inserted after 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm / 11''-11 3/8''-11¾''-12¼''-12½''-13'' on the left side of the back piece and that the marker thread on the right side of the off white front piece matches the marker inserted after 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm / 11''-11 3/8''-11¾''-12¼''-12½''-13'' on the right side of the back piece.
Sew inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on the back piece and inside the bind-off /cast-on edge on the front piece: Sew the seam from the marker threads on the right side and all the way down to the cast-on edge on the back piece (= A – see sketch). Sew the seam from the marker thread on the left side and up to the marker thread inserted for the armhole on the back piece (= B – see sketch). There are now 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm / 6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼'' left for the armhole. Sew the shoulder seams (= C – see sketch) inside the bind-off/cast-on edge.

Assembly of the light pink front piece:
Place the light pink front piece over the off white front piece. The pink front piece should slope from the right shoulder down to the left hip – see sketch and picture! The marker threads on the front piece should match the marker threads on the back piece in the same way as for the off white front piece, but reversed:
Sew inside the 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on the back piece and inside the bind-off/cast-on edge on the front piece: Sew the seam from the marker thread on the left side and all the way down to the cast-on edge on the back piece (= D – see sketch). Sew the seam from the marker thread on the right side and up to the marker thread inserted for armhole on the back piece (= E – see sketch). There are now 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm / 6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼'' left for the armhole. Sew the shoulder seams (= F – see sketch) inside the bind-off/cast-on edge.

Assembly of sleeves:
Sew sleeves to body. Sew the seam under the sleeves. Cut and fasten all strands.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 09.04.2018
Correction: Assembly of the light pink front piece:... Sew the seam from the marker thread on the left side and all the way down to the cast-on edge on the back piece (= D – see sketch). Sew the seam from the marker thread on the right side and up to the marker thread inserted for armhole on the back piece...

Updated online: 29.01.2019
Correction PINK FRONT PIECE: When the piece measures 40-42-45-47-51-54 cm = 15 3/4"-16 1/2"-17 3/4"-18 1/2"-20"-21 1/4" - adjust so that the next row is worked from the right side, insert a marker thread at the end of the row from the right side (used for assembly). Now bind off stitches at the beginning of each row from the wrong side as follows: ROW 1 (right side): knit all stitches. ROW 2 (wrong side): bind off 2 stitches, purl remaining stitches. ROW 3: knit all stitches. ROW 4: bind off 3 stitches, purl remaining stitches. Repeat rows 1-4 a total of 5-7-6-6-2-2 times, then bind off 2 stitches at the beginning of every row from the wrong side until all stitches have been bind off. Cut the strand and thread it through the last stitch on the needle. Correction - OFF WHITE FRONT PIECE: When the piece measures 40-42-45-47-51-54 cm = 15 3/4"-16 1/2"-17 3/4"-18 1/2"-20"-21 1/4" - adjust to match the other front piece and so that the next row is worked from the right side, insert a marker thread at the beginning of the row from the right side. Now bind off stitches at the beginning of each row from the right side as follows: ROW 1 (right side): bind off 2 stitches, knit remaining stitches. ROW 2 (wrong side): purl all stitches. ROW 3: bind off 3 stitches, knit remaining stitches ROW 4: purl all stitches. Repeat rows 1-4 a total of 5-7-6-6-2-2 times, then bind off 2 stitches at the beginning of every row from right side until all stitches have been bind off. Cut the strand and thread it through the last stitch on the needle.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knitting direction

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 188-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (38)

Barbara 21.11.2019 - 03:25:

Proszę o wyjaśnienie dodawania oczek w przodach. W opisie do wzoru jest napisane, że dodajemy tylko na stronie prawej, natomiast w późniejszej części jest informacja,że dodajemy je również na lewej stronie robótki.

DROPS Design 22.11.2019 kl. 08:40:

Witaj Basiu! Masz rację, oczka są dodawane również na lewej stronie robótki, gdy wykonujemy przody. Korekta już została zgłoszona. Dziękuję za wskazanie tej nieścisłości. Pozdrawiamy!

Aissela Laudo 11.08.2019 - 13:44:

Per la fascia davanti da spalla dx a sx quandi dire "FERRO 2 (rovescio del lavoro): Intrecciare 2 maglie, lavorare le rimanenti maglie a rovescio. FERRO 3: Lavorare a diritto", Si continua comunque a fare 3 maglie legaccio da ogni lato per fare bordo ? Grazie mille

DROPS Design 12.08.2019 kl. 08:59:

Buongiorno Aissela, può continuare con il bordo a legaccio. Buon lavoro!

Aissela Laudo 06.08.2019 - 19:16:

Ops.mi accorgo ora che a gennaio avete fstto correzioni al modello, mentre io seguivo una stampa di ottobre 2018. Ora ho capito. Grazieee

Aissela Laudo 06.08.2019 - 19:12:

Le misure sugli schemi indicano maglie, righe, cm? confermate che in taglia S lunghezza 56 cm da incrocio AE a D per davanti- fascia sopra -è corretta? Perché aggiungendo poi le 14x4righe subito dopo sembra troppo lungo.grazie

Aissela Laudo 20.07.2019 - 08:44:

Mi potete consigliare, per ogni singolo pezzo (strisce del davanti, maniche ,dietro) che vivagno fare? Per l aspetto finale e per la confezione. Grazie

DROPS Design 21.07.2019 kl. 14:34:

Buongiorno Aissela. Nel testo trova indicato come lavorare le maglie vivagno, sia quando sono previsti aumenti che quando non lo sono. Seguendo le indicazioni riportate, otterrà il risultato come da fotografia. Buon lavoro!

Maciej 06.07.2019 - 17:47:

Mógłbym prosić o wzór graficzny?

DROPS Design 08.07.2019 kl. 08:41:

Witaj Macieju, schematyczny rysunek znajduje się na dole, na samym końcu wzoru. Pozdrawiamy!

Ria Bout 25.03.2019 - 18:57:

Bij het minderen van de voorpanden voor de heup brei je de terugbreiende naald alle steken recht cq averecht. Waarom brei je aan de andere kant de 3 steken ribbel niet meer? Staat een beetje vreemd.

DROPS Design 10.04.2019 kl. 09:56:

Dag Ria,

Dankjewel, dit moet inderdaad aangepast worden in het patroon. Ik heb het doorgegeven aan design, ter controle.

Uta Fournier 24.03.2019 - 18:40:

Wenn ich Maschen am Ende der Reihe zunehme wird der Rand sehr unregelmässig, sieht aus, wie Schlaufen. Betreffs 9 Maschen Halsausschnitt in jeder 2. Reihe abnehmen, heisst das: abnehmen, Reihe zu Ende stricken dann einmal ohne Anahme hin und zurück und dann wieder abnehmen? Was mach ich bei der Rechnung falsch? 40 Maschen, dann -9 für Hals (=31) + 1x4+2x4(=12) heisst 43 Maschen am Ende, nicht 45

DROPS Design 25.03.2019 kl. 11:53:

Liebe Frau Fournier, die neuen Maschen werden am Ende jeder Rückreihe gestrickt = an der Seite nicht gegen Hals. Sie haben 40 M und nehmen 1 Masche 9 Mal insgesamt ab und nehmen Sie gleichzeitig 1 Masche 4 M + 2 Maschen 5 x = 40 - 9 + (4+10)= 45 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Fuchs 11.12.2018 - 20:15:

Bonjour J'ai terminé le devant naturel pour la taille M: j'ai mesuré l'ouvrage comme dit pour arriver à 59 cm; Quand je le place sur le dos,le devant est vraiment TRES long par rapport au dos! J'ai bien respecté les mesures: je ne comprends pas . Dommage que l'on ne peut pas envoyer une photo... J'espère que vous pourrez me venir en aide? Je vous en remercie d'avance.

DROPS Design 12.12.2018 kl. 08:47:

Bonjour Mme Fuchs, votre devant a-t'il bien la forme de celui du schéma? N'hésitez pas à envoyer une photo à votre magasin, ce sera plus simple pour lui de vous aider en voyant ce que vous avez fait - vous pouvez les contacter par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

Fuchs 27.11.2018 - 21:44:

Bonjour Pour les devants du pull: D'où à d'où mesure t'on l'ouvrage de façon qu'il fasse 59 cm pour le taille M? A partir du début du tricot ou à partir du fil marqueur? Merci encore pour vos explications

DROPS Design 28.11.2018 kl. 08:36:

Bonjour Mme Fuchs, on mesure l'ouvrage à partir du marqueur du côté droit (vu sur l'endroit), au niveau où il est indiqué "MESURER DÉSORMAIS L'OUVRAGE À PARTIR D'ICI!" jusqu'aux mailles sur l'aiguille, le long du côté avec le marqueur. Bon tricot!

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