DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.15$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

To the Point

Knitted sweater with V-neck, cables and displacements. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Air.

DROPS 188-6
DROPS design: Pattern ai-116
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
350-350-400-450-500-500 g color 02, wheat

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group C)” - see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm = 24” or 32”) SIZE 5.5 MM = US 9 – or size needed to get 16 stitches and 20 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm = 4” and 10 cm = 4” vertically.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm = 24”) SIZE 4.5 MM = US 7 for rib – or size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm = 4” and 10 cm = 4” vertically.

DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.15$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.9. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1, A.2, A.3, A.5, A.6 and A.7). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on needle (i.e. 99 stitches), subtract edge stitches/stitches not decrease over (e.g. 2 stitches) and divide by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 16) = 6. In this example knit approx. every 5th and 6th stitch together.

INCREASE TIP:
All increases are done from the right side.
Increase 1 stitch by making a yarn over. On next row purl yarn over twisted to avoid hole. Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch.
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SWEATER:
Worked back and forth, bottom up and sewn together when finished.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 99-105-114-120-132-144 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7 with Air. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above, (knit 1/purl 2) until 2 stitches remain on needle, knit 1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this until rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2". Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 16-16-19-19-21-23 stitches evenly - read DECREASE TIP (evenly) = 83-89-95-101-111-121 stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9. Now work pattern as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, stockinette stitch over the next 28-31-32-35-38-43 stitches, A.1 (= 11-11-13-13-15-15 stitches), 3 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.2 (= 11-11-13-13-15-15 stitches), stockinette stitch over the next 28-31-32-35-38-43 stitches, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue back and forth like this until piece measures 23-24-25-26-27-28 cm = 9"-9 1/2"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-10 5/8"-11" – adjust to finish one whole repetition of A.1/A.2 vertically! REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Now work as follows: Work as before until 2 stitches remain before A.1, knit 2 together, A.3 (= 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches) over the first 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches in A.1, A.4 (= 5 stitches), A.5 (= 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches) over the last 10-10-12-12-14-14 stitches in A.2, slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked, work in stockinette stitch until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch. Continue pattern like this and decrease 1 stitch before A.3 and after A.5 every other row (= 14 decreases before A.3 and after A.5 when A.4 has been worked vertically), AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm = 14 1/2"-15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/8"-16 1/2", bind off 3-3-4-5-6-6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows (marks armhole). When entire A.4 has been worked vertically, 86-92-96-100-108-118 stitches remain on needle. Now slip the last 43-46-48-50-54-59 stitches (seen from right side) on a stitch holder for right front piece = 43-46-48-50-54-59 stitches for left front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 43-46-48-50-54-59 stitches. Work as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, stockinette stitch until 2 stitches remain before A.3, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased), A.6 (= 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches), A.8 (= 8 stitches) 2 times in width, 3 stitches in garter stitch (= towards neck). Continue pattern back and forth like this and decrease 1 stitch before A.6 every other row 4-5-5-5-6-6 times in total and every 4th row 4-4-4-5-5-5 times (= 8-9-9-10-11-11 stitches decreased for neck in total) = 35-37-39-40-43-48 stitches. Continue until piece measures 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm = 7"-7 1/2"-8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9" from armhole. Knit 1 row over all stitch and decrease at the same time 5 stitches evenly over the 16 stitches in pattern A.8 = 30-32-34-35-38-43 stitches. Knit 1 row from wrong side. Bind off. Piece measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26" from shoulder and down.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 43-46-48-50-54-59 stitches. Work as follows from right side:3 stitches in garter stitch (= towards neck), A.9 (= 8 stitches) 2 times in width, A.7 (= 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased), stockinette stitch until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue pattern back and forth like this and decrease 1 stitch after A.7 every other row 4-5-5-5-6-6 times in total and every 4th row 4-4-4-5-6-6 times (= 8-9-9-10-11-11 stitches decreased for neck in total) = 35-37-39-40-43-48 stitches. Continue until piece measures 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm = 7"-7 1/2"-8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9" from armhole. Knit 1 row over all stitch and decrease at the same time 5 stitches evenly over the 16 stitches in pattern A.9 = 30-32-34-35-38-43 stitches. Knit 1 row from wrong side. Bind off. Piece measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26" from shoulder and down.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 99-105-114-120-132-144 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7 with Air. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (knit 1/purl 2) until 2 stitches remain on row, knit 1, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this until rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2". Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 16-16-19-19-21-23 stitches evenly = 83-89-95-101-111-121 stitches. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9. Now work in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 37-38-39-40-41-42 cm = 14 1/2"-15"-15 1/4"-15 3/4"-16 1/8"-16 1/2", bind off 3-3-4-5-6-6 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows (marks armhole) = 77-83-87-91-99-109 stitches. Continue in stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm = 6"-6 1/4"-6 3/4"-7"-7 1/2"-8" from armhole, work in garter stitch over the middle 23-25-25-27-29-29 stitches. Continue like this until 2 ridges have been work over the middle stitches. Now bind off the middle 17-19-19-21-23-23 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately = 30-32-34-35-38-43 stitches for each shoulder. Continue in stockinette stitch with 3 stitches in garter stitch towards neck and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards armhole. When armhole measures 18-19-20-21-22-23 cm = 7"-7 1/2"-8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9", work 1 ridge over all stitches. Bind off. Piece measures approx. 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm = 22"-22 3/4"-23 5/8"-24 3/8"-25 1/4"-26" from shoulder and down. Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 41-44-47-50-53-56 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 MM = US 7 with Air. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, (knit 1/purl 2) until 1 stitch remains, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue like this until rib measures 4 cm = 1 1/2". Knit 1 row from right side while decreasing 4-6-6-6-9-9 stitches evenly = 37-38-41-44-44-47 stitches. Work 1 row from wrong side. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9. Work in stockinette stitch with 1 stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 10-6-6-6-12-11 cm = 4"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-4 3/4"-4 3/8", increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side - READ INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 6th-6th-6th-6th-4th-4th row 13-14-14-14-16-16 times in total = 63-66-69-72-76-79 stitches. Continue until sleeve measures 50-49-49-49-47-45 cm = 19 3/4"-19 1/4"-19 1/4"-19 1/4"-18 1/2"-17 3/4". Bind off. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside bind-off edge. Sew sleeves in body inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on body and inside bind-off edge on sleeve. Sew seam under sleeves and continue down the side on body down to rib (= 4 cm = 1 1/2" for vent). Repeat in the other side.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 11.05.2018
The length of the left and right front pieces, as well as the back piece were provided for 7 sizes, this has been corrected to 6 sizes
Updated online: 13.05.2022
Corrections diagrams A.8 and A.9 so that the cables go in the correct direction.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next row purl or knit yarn over - see next row in diagram to make holes
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over. On next row work yarn over twisted to avoid holes
symbols = purl 2 together
symbols = knit 2 together (from wrong side)
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 3 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 3 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 3, knit 3 from cable needle
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (38)

country flag Carol McMillan wrote:

You state that you correct the 7 szes list to 6 but they are not corrected. it still shows 7 lengths for the Back and Righ Front.

31.10.2023 - 21:59

DROPS Design answered:

Thanks for your feedback, US-English pattern will be edited asap. Happy knitting!

03.11.2023 - 07:21

country flag Nini Tielle wrote:

Mijn vraag is overbodig Ik heb gezien waar mijn vergissing is gemaakt

08.10.2022 - 19:41

country flag Nini Tielle wrote:

Voor elke open omslag in A4 minder ik aan de zijkant van A3 en A5 Dus minder ik geen steken De zwarte omslagen zijn extra steken Hoe kan ik dan op 100 steken uitkomen? Heb ik ergens minderingen gemist?

08.10.2022 - 17:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Nini,

Je kant op een gegeven moment steken af voor de armsgaten. Daar zitten wellicht de minderingen die je mist.

20.11.2022 - 18:13

country flag Christine wrote:

Il me semble que pour le devant gauche il faut tricoter deux fois A9, et pour le devant droit deux fois A8

31.03.2022 - 17:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Christine et merci pour votre retour, les diagrammes ont été modifiés pour que les torsades soient alignées dans le bon sens. Bon tricot!

13.05.2022 - 11:45

country flag Jean Berry wrote:

Thank you so much for your answer. Just to clarify, there are four YOs per knit row and only 2 decreases? Jean Berry

21.03.2022 - 17:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Berry, at the beginning of A.4 you increase 4 sts in A.4 and decrease 2 sts (before A.3 and after A.5), but then there will be only 2 increases in A.4 and still the 2 decreases as before. Happy knitting!

22.03.2022 - 10:00

country flag Jean Berry wrote:

In A4 diagram, are their four increases on knit rows or two? I can see a black with circle indicating a YO on either side of the three center knit stitches but what are the blank ovals? On the purl rows, there are more stitiches than YOs if only the black within an oval is done as a YO. If the blank ovals are also YOs, what does that do to the shape of the sweater? Thanks, Jean Berry

21.03.2022 - 04:35

DROPS Design answered:

Hi jean, All the circles are YOs, but the black circles are worked twisted on the next row (no holes), while the open circles are purled/knitted (without twisting) to leave holes. So they are all increases and part of the pattern/shape of the sweater. Happy knitting!

21.03.2022 - 06:57

country flag Helen wrote:

I see mutiple people made remarks about the wrong cable instructions at A4. Why don't you ajust this?

13.02.2021 - 17:28

country flag Helen wrote:

The cables in A4 in the photograph are different from the instruction. That's a pitty because when you follow the instruction (like i did) the 'flower' in the middle doesn't stand out like it should. A8 and 9 are correct but differ from A4. It's a very beautiful design!

13.02.2021 - 13:56

country flag Jane wrote:

Lurer på hvorfor fletten er i forskjellig rettninger på A4 og A8/A9

21.07.2019 - 13:50

country flag Ane wrote:

Hvorfor får jeg ikke se gensere bakfra også? Jeg må jo kunne se :)

09.03.2019 - 21:33

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ane, Ryggen er strikket i glatstrik, så bare følg opskriften. God fornøjelse!

12.03.2019 - 14:59