DROPS Extra / 0-1392

Advent Calendar Doors by DROPS Design

Crocheted separate Advent calendar doors with decorations. The pieces are worked in DROPS Safran.

  • Advent Calendar Doors / DROPS Extra 0-1392 - Crocheted separate Advent calendar doors with decorations. The pieces are worked in DROPS Safran.
  • Advent Calendar Doors / DROPS Extra 0-1392 - Crocheted separate Advent calendar doors with decorations. The pieces are worked in DROPS Safran.
  • Advent Calendar Doors / DROPS Extra 0-1392 - Crocheted separate Advent calendar doors with decorations. The pieces are worked in DROPS Safran.
  • Advent Calendar Doors / DROPS Extra 0-1392 - Crocheted separate Advent calendar doors with decorations. The pieces are worked in DROPS Safran.
  • Advent Calendar Doors / DROPS Extra 0-1392 - Crocheted separate Advent calendar doors with decorations. The pieces are worked in DROPS Safran.
DROPS Design: Pattern no e-268
Yarn group A
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1 door (without decoration) weighs approx. 20 grams.
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Measurement door: Width: approx. 13 cm / 5''. Height: approx. 20 cm / 8''.
Materials:
To make 24 doors you will need:
DROPS SAFRAN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
500 g color 19, red
50 g of each of the following colors:
color 18, off white
color 21, beige
color 22, light brown
color 04, green
color 07, medium gray
color 55, cerise
color 11, strong yellow

The piece can also be crocheted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see link below.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3 MM / C – or the size needed to get 24 single crochets and 26 rows on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS METAL BUTTON, LOOP (brass) NO 530: 1 item (for each door)

ACCESSORIES: A piece of durable fabric that can be hanged up, then the 24 doors can be sewn to the fabric. The fabric should measure approx. 55 x 130 cm - this equals to 4 doors in width and 6 doors in height.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Cotton
from 2.35 $ /50g
DROPS Safran uni colour DROPS Safran uni colour 2.35 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.95$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

PATTERN:
Hexagonal window: See diagram A.1.
Wreath with bell: See diagram A.2.
Heart: See diagram A.3.
Straight-sided oval window: See diagram A.4.
Oval window: See diagram A.5.
Star: See diagram A.6.
Wreath: See diagram A.7.

LOBSTER STITCH (for arched window):
Work single crochets, but backwards. In other words, work single crochets from left to right.

CROCHET INFO (for arched window, Christmas tree and reindeer):
First single crochet is replaced by 1 chain stitch.

WORK 2 SINGLE CROCHETS TOGETHER:
* Insert hook into next stitch, pick up strand *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a yarn over and pull yarn over through all 3 loops on hook (= 1 single crochet decreased).
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DOOR TO ADVENT CALENDAR:
For the complete Advent calendar there is 24 doors, with windows and decorations as you wish.
The Advent calendar consists of one door which is the same in all patterns. The decorations consist of 5 different windows, 1 heart, 1 wreath with bell, 1 wreath with berries, 1 reindeer, 1 Christmas tree, 1 star, 1 candy stick, 1 small parcel and 1 large parcel. These can be placed as you wish, depending on how much decoration you would like to have. See placement idea on calendar. The pattern is divided into 4 - see photo.

DOOR:
The piece is first worked back and forth, then you work an edge around whole door. Work 29 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm / C and red. Turn and work 1 single crochet in the 2nd chain stitch from the hook, work 1 single crochet in each of the next 27 chain stitches = 28 single crochets. The next row is worked as follows: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each single crochet. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Repeat the last row until piece measures 18 cm / 7'', finish with a row from the wrong side. Now crochet an edge around the whole door, turn and start in the top corner from the right side: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in first single crochet, * 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in first chain stitch, skip approx. 1½ cm / ½'', 1 single crochet in next single crochet *, repeat from *-* to end of round, adjust so that you get one single crochet in each corner of the door. Finish the round with 1 slip stitch in chain stitch at beginning of round. Cut and fasten strand. Sew a button to the door, approx. mid left side.
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DOOR-1:
Work a door as described above. Then work an arched window, a hexagonal window, a wreath with bell and a heart.

ARCHED WINDOW:
The piece is first worked back and forth, then you crochet an edge around whole window.
Work 18 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm / C and off white.
ROW 1: Turn and work 1 single crochet in 2nd chain stitch from the hook, work 1 single crochet in each of the next 16 chain stitches = 17 single crochets.
ROWS 2-12: Read CROCHET INFO! Work 1 single crochet in each single crochet.
ROW 13: Work 2 SINGLE CROCHETS TOGETHER - see description above, 1 single crochet in each single crochet until there are 2 single crochets left, work 2 single crochets together (= 2 single crochets decreased).
ROW 14: Work 1 single crochet in each single crochet.
Repeat rows 13 and 14 one more time, then repeat row 13 = 11 single crochets on last row. Cut and fasten strand.
Work an edge around the window as follows: Start in bottom left corner. Work LOBSTER STITCH - see description above, along bottom edge of window. Then turn piece and work around as follows: Work * 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch, skip 1 row/ single crochet, work 1 single crochet in next row/ single crochet *, repeat from *-* to beginning of round, i.e. bottom right corner. Cut and fasten strand.

HEXAGONAL WINDOW:
The window is worked in the round from the middle outwards.
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm / C and off white and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1b a total of 6 times on the round - A.1a shows how rounds start and finish and is worked in addition to A.1b. Continue in the round until there is 1 round left. Change to beige and work last round. Cut and fasten strand. Work slip-stitch rows in the increases (6 stripes) with beige.

WREATH WITH BELL:
The piece is worked in the round, starting from the middle of the wreath and outwards.
Work 24 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm / C and green and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Work pattern in the round according to diagram A.2b a total of 5 times on the round - A.2a shows how the rounds start and finish and is worked in addition to A.2b. Continue until A.2a/A.2b is finished, cut and fasten strand. Now work a round on the right side with the same single crochets as for first round. Fasten strand with1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of this round, then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.2d a total of 5 times on the round - A.2c shows how the rounds start and finish and is worked in addition to A.2d. Continue to end of round, cut and fasten strand.
Work a bell as follows: Work 3 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm / C and strong yellow and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Work 4 single crochets around the ring, then work 2 rounds with 1 single crochet in each single crochet, then work 1 round with 2 single crochets in each of the 4 single crochets = 8 single crochets. Cut and fasten strand. Sew the bell to the wreath.

HEART:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm / C and green and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Then work pattern around the ring as shown in diagram A.3. When A.3 is finished, cut and fasten strand.

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DOOR-2:
Work a door as described above. Then work a straight-edged oval window, a Christmas tree, a reindeer and a heart.

STRAIGHT-EDGED OVAL WINDOW:
The piece is worked in the round, starting from the middle of the window and outwards.
Work 11 chain stitches (including 1 chain stitch to turn) with hook size 3 mm / C and off white. Turn and work 1 single crochet in 2nd chain stitch from the hook, work 1 single crochet in each of the next 8 chain stitches, 2 single crochets in the last single crochet. Continue in the round and work on the opposite side of the chain-stitch row as follows: 1 single crochet in each of the first 8 chain stitches, 1 single crochet in same chain stitch as first single crochet. Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.4 as follows: A.4a shows how the rounds start and finish, * A.4b, A.4c and A.4 d *, work from *-* a total of 2 times on the round. Continue in the round until there is 1 round left. Change to medium gray and work the last round. Cut and fasten strand.

CHRISTMAS TREE:
The piece is first worked back and forth, then you work an edge around the whole Christmas tree.
Work 8 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm / C and green.
ROW 1: Turn and work 1 single crochet in 2nd chain stitch from hook, work 1 single crochet in each of the next 6 chain stitches = 7 single crochets.
ROWS 2-3: Read CROCHET INFO! Work 1 single crochet in each single crochet.
ROW 4: Work 1 slip stitch in first single crochet, 1 single crochet in each of the next 5 single crochets = 5 single crochets.
ROWS 5-6: Work 1 single crochet in each single crochet.
ROW 7: Work 1 slip stitch in first single crochet, 1 single crochet in each of the next 3 single crochets = 3 single crochets.
ROWS 8-11: Work 1 single crochet in each single crochet. Cut and fasten strand.
EDGE: Start with 1 single crochet with green around first row in bottom right corner, * skip 1 row, work 6 double crochets around next row, skip 1 row, 1 single crochet around next row *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, skip 1 row, around middle of next row work as follows: Work 3 double crochets, 2 treble crochets, 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch, 2 treble crochets and 3 double crochets, * skip 1 row, work 1 single crochet around next row, skip 1 row, work 6 double crochets around next row *, repeat from *-* 1 more time, skip 1 row and finish with 1 single crochet around last row. Cut and fasten strand.
Sew candles with strong yellow around the chain stitches at top of tree. Embroider light onto tree by working stitches up and down over the whole tree with strong yellow and cerise.

REINDEER:
The piece is worked back and forth.
Work 3 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm / C and light brown and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch.
ROW 1 - Read CROCHET INFO! Work 6 single crochets around chain-stitch ring.
ROWS 2-7: Turn. Work 1 single crochet in each single crochet.
ROW 8 (ear): Work 2 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in first single crochet - but wait with the last yarn over and pull through, work 1 double crochet in next single crochet and pull strand through all loops on hook. Cut and fasten strand.
Work the other ear in the same way on the opposite side, start with 1 slip stitch. Cut and fasten strand.
ANTLERS: Work 15 loose chain stitches with hook size 3 mm / C and beige, work 1 single crochet in each of the middle 2 single crochets on row 7, then work 15 loose chain stitches. Cut strand.
Then work short chain-stitch rows out to each side of both of these 15 chain stitches. Work 1 part as follows: Fasten with 1 slip stitch on the chain-stitch row and work 4 chain stitches. Cut and fasten strand. Work 2 such parts on each of the 15 chain-stitch rows.
Sew a couple of stitches for eyes with off white.

HEART:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm / C and green and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Continue by working pattern in the round according to diagram A.3. When A.3 is finished, cut and fasten strand.

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DOOR-3:
Work a door as described above. Then work an oval window, a heart and a star.

OVAL WINDOW:
The piece is worked in the round, starting from the middle of the window and outwards.
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm / C and off white and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Work pattern in the round according to diagram A.5b a total of 2 times on the round - A.5a shows how the rounds start and finish and is worked in addition to A.5b. Continue in the round until there is 1 round left. Change to beige and work last round. Cut and fasten strand.

HEART:
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm / C and green and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Continue working around the ring as shown in diagram A.3. When A.3 is finished, cut and fasten strand.

STAR:
The piece is worked in the round, starting from the middle of the star and outwards.
Work 4 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm / C and off white and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Continue by working pattern in the round as shown in diagram A.6. When A.6 is finished, cut and fasten strand.

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DOOR-4:
Work a door as described above. Then work a small square window, a wreath with berries, a small parcel, a large parcel and a candy stick.

SMALL SQUARE WINDOW:
The piece is worked back and forth, then crochet an edge around the whole window.
Work 13 chain stitches (including 1 chain stitch to turn) with hook size 3 mm / C and off white. Turn and work 1 single crochet in 2nd chain stitch from hook, work 1 single crochet in each of the next 11 chain stitches = 12 single crochets. The next row is worked as follows: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each single crochet. Repeat the last row until you have worked a total of 11 rows.
Now work an edge around the whole window, turn and start in the top corner as follows: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in first single crochet, * 3 chain stitches, 1 double crochet in first chain stitch, skip approx. 1½ cm / ½'', 1 single crochet in next single crochet *, repeat from *-* to end of round, adjust so that you have a single crochet in each corner of the window. Finish round with 1 slip stitch in the chain stitch at the beginning of the round. Cut and fasten strand.

WREATH WITH BERRIES:
The piece is worked in the round, starting from the middle of the wreath outwards.
Work 24 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm / C and green and form them to a ring with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch. Work pattern in the round according to diagram A.7b a total of 6 times on the round - A.7a shows how the rounds start and finish and is worked in addition to A.7b. Continue until A.7 has been completed. Cut and fasten strand.
Berries: Work 1 berry as follows: Work 3 chain stitches with hook size 3 mm / C and red, work 3 double crochets in the first of the 3 chain stitches, take the hook out and insert it into the 3rd chain stitch, pick up loop from last double crochet and then pull loop through 3rd chain stitch. Cut and fasten strand. Work 2 more berries in the same way and sew them onto the top of the wreath.

SMALL PARCEL:
The piece is worked back and forth.
Work 10 chain stitches (including 1 chain stitch to turn) with hook size 3 mm / C and cerise. Turn and work 1 single crochet in 2nd chain stitch from hook, work 1 single crochet in each of the next 8 chain stitches = 9 single crochets. Next row is worked as follows: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each single crochet. Repeat the last row until you have worked a total of 7 rows. Cut and fasten strand.
Work 1 chain-stitch row with strong yellow of approx. 6 cm / 2 3/8'', tie a tight knot in each end and cut the strand. Fasten it across the parcel. Work 1 chain-stitch row with cerise of approx. 15 cm / 6'', tie a tight knot in each end. Tie this around the parcel in height and tie a bow at the top.

LARGE PARCEL:
The piece is worked back and forth.
Work 13 chain stitches (including 1 chain stitch to turn) with hook size 3 mm / C and medium gray. Turn and work 1 single crochet in 2nd chain stitch from hook, work 1 single crochet in each of the next 11 chain stitches = 12 single crochets. The next row is worked as follows: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each single crochet. Repeat the last row until you have worked a total of 10 rows. Cut and fasten strand.
Work 1 chain-stitch row with cerise of approx. 8 cm / 3 1/8'', tie a tight knot in each end and cut strand. Fasten it across the parcel. Work 1 chain-stitch row with cerise of approx. 20 cm / 8'', tie a tight knot in each end. Tie this around the parcel in height and tie a bow at the top.

CANDY STICK:
The piece is worked back and forth.
Work 4 chain stitches (including 1 chain stitch to turn) with hook size 3 mm / C and off white. Turn and work 1 single crochet in 2nd chain stitch from hook, work 1 single crochet in each of the next 2 chain stitches = 3 single crochets. Next row worked as follows: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each single crochet. Repeat the last row until you have worked a total of 12 rows, finish with 6 chain stitches on last row. Turn, work 1 single crochet in 2nd chain stitch from hook, 1 single crochet in each of the next 4 chain stitches, 1 single crochet in each of the next 3 single crochets = 8 single crochets. Next row worked as follows: Work 1 chain stitch, 1 single crochet in each single crochet. Repeat last row 1 more time. Cut and fasten strand.
Work 1 chain-stitch row with red of approx. 60 chain stitches, tie a tight knot in each end and cut strand. Wind it around the candy stick and fasten at back.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = slip stitch around chain-stitch ring
symbols = chain stitch
symbols = 3 chain stitches
symbols = 8 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch around chain-stitch ring
symbols = single crochet around chain-stitch ring
symbols = single crochet in stitch
symbols = 2 single crochets in same stitch
symbols = half double crochet in stitch
symbols = double crochet in stitch
symbols = treble crochet in stitch
symbols = * 3 chain stitches, 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch *, work from *-* a total of 3 times, fasten with 1 slip stitch in top of double crochet
symbols = round starts with 1 chain stitch and finishes with 1 slip stitch in first chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = round starts with 2 chain stitches and finishes with 1 slip stitch in 2nd chain stitch at beginning of round
symbols = chain-stitch ring is described in text - see point on circle, round starts and ends here
symbols = round is already worked - Start on next round!
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1392) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Comments / Questions (4)

country flag Marja Van Bruggen 19.07.2019 - 19:59:

Ik kom niet uit het patroon van de krans met bel. Is hier een geschreven patroon van? Of anders, hoeveel toeren zijn het in totaal?

user icon DROPS Design 23.07.2019 kl. 11:50:

Dag Marja,

Het geschreven patroon staat bij 'KRANS MET BEL'. Je haakt eerst 24 lossen die je sluit met een ring. Dan haak je de eerste toer van A.2 (vasten, beginnend met 1 lossen) Op de volgende toer begin met het eerste symbool in A.2a (= de toer begint met 2 lossen ) dan haak je een half stokje in de eerste vaste van de vorige toer. Dan haak je 4 lossen, dan 1 stokje in de 2e losse van die vier lossen en 1 dubbel stokje in de 1e losse van die vier lossen, sla 2 stokjes over en haak dan weer een half stokje in de volgende vaste, herhaal op deze manier (kijk ook naar het telpatroon).

country flag Anneke Maaskant 28.01.2019 - 11:53:

-Ik ga geen suikerwater gebruiken: dit trekt ongedierte aan. Ik naai de lapjes L-vormig vast+ een stukje rechtsonder en een haakje rechtsboven. -De koordjes met strik om de pakjes zijn te kort: ik heb resp. 30 en 40cm gemaakt. -Ik werk de draadjes in eerste instantie niet weg maar gebruik ze voor het bevestigen op de ondergrond.

country flag Anneke Maaskant 28.01.2019 - 11:49:

-Ik ga geen suikerwater gebruiken, dit trekt ongedierte aan. ik naai de lapjes L-vormig vast+ een stukje rechtsonder. Haakje rechtsboven.\r\n-De koordjes met strik om de pakjes zijn te kort: ik heb resp. 30 en 40cm gemaakt.\r\n-draadjes werk ik in eerste instantie niet weg: veel er van zijn te gebruiken voor bevestigen aan de ondergrond.\r\n-Veel maar leuk werk!

country flag Anneke 14.10.2018 - 18:45:

Als de deurtjes aan de linkerkant worden vastgenaaid en aan de rechterkant een knoop zit is de rest los en kunnen er geen kleinigheidjes in verstopt. Dat is toch de bedoeling van een Adventkalender? Bovendien: als je het deurtje openmaakt zakt het dan niet slap uit?

user icon DROPS Design 15.10.2018 kl. 21:44:

Dag Anneke, Daar heb je inderdaad wel gelijk aan. Dit zou je op kunnen lossen door de deurtjes op te stijven door ze in suikerwater te leggen en dan plat te laten drogen. Door het opgedroogde suiker worden de lapjes stijf en krullen ze niet om.

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