DROPS / 180 / 4

Perles du Nord Jacket by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with round yoke, multi-colored Norwegian pattern and A-shape, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Flora.

DROPS Design: Pattern no fl-009
Yarn group A
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS FLORA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-400-400-450-500-550 g color 15, green
50-100-100-100-100-100 g color 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g color 16, pistachio

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm / 16" + 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 for rib – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS METAL BUTTONS, Jagged NO 534: 8 items in all sizes.

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Color combinations shown are:
A) DROPS Flora 01, 14, 10.
B) DROPS Flora 01, 07, 08.
C) DROPS Flora 03, 04, 05.
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Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Flora uni colour DROPS Flora uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Flora mix DROPS Flora mix 4.10 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.10$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

DECREASE/INCREASE TIP:
To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 132 stitches) minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 19) = 6.4.
In this example, decrease by knitting alternately every 5th and 6th stitch and every 6th and 7th stitch together. Do not decrease over the bands.
If you are increasing, do this after alternately every 6th and 7th stitch (increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted and into the pattern so that there are no holes).

ELEVATION:
Insert 1 marker mid back. Start from the right side with off white and knit until you have worked 10-10-11-12-12-13 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten the strand and purl 20-20-22-24-24-26 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 30-30-33-36-36-39 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 40-40-44-48-48-52 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 50-50-55-60-60-65 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 60-60-66-72-72-78 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 70-70-77-84-84-91 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl to end of row (the band is knitted).

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. Choose diagram for your size. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side. The whole pattern is worked in stockinette stitch.

KNITTING TIP-1 (for the bands):
When working the pattern edge with two colors on the yoke, work the background color in the pattern also over the 5 band stitches in each side.

KNITTING TIP-2:
To prevent the knitting gauge from becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands do not tighten at the back of the piece. You can increase the size of your needle when working pattern if you find you are working too tightly.

INCREASE TIP (for the sides on body):
All increases are from the right side!
Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Work until there are 4 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 4 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on the right band (when garment is worn): Knit from the right side until there are 3 stitches left at the end of the row, make 1 yarn over, knit the next 2 stitches together and knit the final stitch. On the next row knit the yarn over to make a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked when the band at the neck measures approx. 1½-2 cm / ½"-3/4''. Then work the next 7 buttonholes with approx. 7½-8-8-8½-8½-9 cm / 2 7/8"-3"-3"-3 1/4"-3 1/4"-3½" between each.
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JACKET:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and is worked top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle, top down, change to double pointed needles when you have decreased enough stitches.

NECKLINE:
Cast on 132-136-140-144-152-160 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and off white. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – see description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the needle, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue the rib in this way – remember BUTTONHOLES on right band – see description above. When the rib measures 3 cm / 1'' knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 19-17-15-13-15-17 stitches evenly on row – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 113-119-125-131-137-143 stitches. Continue by working the yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Change to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Purl 1 row from wrong side with 5 band stitches in each side. For a better fit, you can now work an ELEVATION at the back of the neck – see description above.
When you have completed the elevation, work the next row as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1A until there are 6 stitches left on the needle (= 17-18-19-20-21-22 repeats of 6 stitches), work A.1B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue the pattern in this way and increase as shown in the diagram. Read KNITTING TIP-1 and KNITTING TIP-2. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
On the row marked with a star in A.1 (i.e. the last row from the right side in A.1) there are 232-245-258-271-326-341 stitches on the needle, increase at the same time 11-22-33-36-21-22 stitches evenly on row – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 243-267-291-307-347-363 stitches.
When A.1 has been completed, work the next row from the right side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.2A until there are 6 stitches left on the needle (= 29-32-35-37-42-44 repeats of 8 stitches), work A.2B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue the pattern in this way, but on the row marked with a star in A.2 (i.e. the last row from the right side in A.2) increase 8-16-24-24-16-16 stitches evenly on row = 251-283-315-331-363-379 stitches.
When A.2 has been completed, work the next row as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.3A until there are 6 stitches left on the row (= 15-17-19-20-22-23 repeats of 16 stitches), work A.3B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue the pattern in this way and increase as shown in the diagram.
When the last row in A.3 remains (marked with an arrow in each size) there are 326-368-410-431-473-494 stitches on the needle, increase at the same time 11-11-1-11-0-5 stitches evenly on the last row from the wrong side = 337-379-411-442-473-499 stitches. The piece now measures approx. 24-26-28-30-32-34 cm / 9½"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-12½"-13½'' from the cast-on edge measured mid front. NOTE: If the piece is shorter than this, continue working stockinette stitch with green and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side to required length.
The next row is worked as follows from the right side with green: Knit 55-60-64-70-76-81 stitches (= front piece), place the next 64-75-83-86-90-93 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve), knit 99-109-117-130-141-151 stitches (= back piece), place the next 64-75-83-86-90-93 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 10-10-12-12-14-16 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve) and knit the remaining 55-60-64-70-76-81 stitches (= front piece). The body and sleeves are now finished separately. THE PIECE IS MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 229-249-269-294-321-345 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 60-65-70-76-83-89 stitches in from each side = 109-119-129-142-155-167 stitches between marker threads on the back piece. Continue with green and work stockinette stitch back and forth with 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front. When the piece measures 2 cm / 3/4'' from the division increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase in this way every 10th row (approx. every 3 cm / 1'') to finished length (if the knitting gauge is correct in height, there should be approx. 9 increase rows in each side).
When the piece measures 30 cm / 11 3/4'' from the division in all sizes, there are 265-285-305-330-357-381 stitches on the needle.
Purl 1 row from wrong side where you increase 83-87-95-106-115-123 stitches evenly on row – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 348-372-400-436-472-504 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and work the next row from the right side as follows: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the needle, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib in this way for 4 cm / 1½''. Then bind off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl, but to prevent the bind-off edge being tight, you can make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch AT THE SAME TIME as you bind off (the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches). The jacket measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'' from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 64-75-83-86-90-93 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on a short circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and in addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 74-85-95-98-104-109 stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches under the sleeve. Start the round here and work stockinette stitch in the round with green. When the sleeve measures 2 cm / 3/4'' from the division decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way a total of 11-15-19-19-21-22 times in S: Every 9th round, in M: Every 6th round, in L and XL: Every 4th round, in XXL: Alternately every 3rd and 4th round and in XXXL: Every 3rd round = 52-55-57-60-62-65 stitches. When the sleeve measures 31-29-28-26-25-23 cm / 12 1/4"-11½"-11"-10 1/4"-9 3/4"-9" from the division (shorter measurements in the larger sizes due to longer yoke), knit 1 round where you increase 16-17-19-20-18-19 stitches evenly = 68-72-76-80-80-84 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 and work rib in the round (= knit 2 / purl 2). When the rib measures 10 cm / 4'' (or the desired length) bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl, but to prevent the bind-off edge being tight you can make 1 yarn over after every 4th stitch AT THE SAME TIME as you bind off (the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches). The sleeve measures approx. 41-39-38-36-35-33 cm / 16"-15 1/4"-15"-14 1/4"-13 3/4"-13'' from the division. Work a second sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 15.09.2017
New diagram A.3b in sizes XL-XXL-XXXL.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= off white
= green
= pistachio
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over with background colour in pattern stripe, on the next row purl the yarn overs twisted so that there are no holes
= increase row
= finish after this row




Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 180-4) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

Sharon 27.01.2020 - 02:19:

I can see now that you knit the band stitches in the green too. This is not clear in the pattern. I went ahead and carried the white across. I think it looks much nicer if you keep it white where the pattern is and only change to green when you have finished the yoke.

Sharon 26.01.2020 - 09:59:

When knitting the all green rows of the pattern. Do you carry the white across the back catching every 5 sts or do you add another ball of the white to do the band on the other side?

DROPS Design 27.01.2020 kl. 09:04:

Dear Sharon, if you just work in green, let the white yarn and get it on next round, if you work with both colours, carry the yarn - see our both videos for US/UK method and continental method. Happy knitting!

Sharon 11.01.2020 - 07:30:

I purchased the Drops Flora to knit this pattern and am struggling to get gauge. If I use 3mm needles, I get 33 sts per 10cm. If I use 3.75mm, I get 28 sts and not the best fabric. What brand of needle is used for the suggested gauge? Are metal or wooden needles best with the Flora?

DROPS Design 13.01.2020 kl. 08:43:

Dear Sharon, the knitting tension is very individual, you have to adjust the needle size (and eventually the needles materials), but remember also to watch and block your swatch, then measure your swatch again and check if you need to use larger needle, then work a new swatch and repeat the process until you get correct gauge blocked. Your DROPS store will have also even more tipps for you even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

MarjoB-W 06.10.2019 - 15:09:

Ik wil graag een foto sturen van het vest wat ik met dit patroon gebreid heb. Hoe doe ik dat?

Luzia 05.08.2019 - 18:59:

Oh thank you for your quick reply to my question, but I meant to ask about the measurements for sizes so I can pick my size to start knitting it, sorry I wasn't more clear in my first question.

DROPS Design 05.08.2019 kl. 19:02:

Dear Luzia, the drawing at the bottom of the page shows the final measurement expressed in cm, so you can choose your size. Happy crafting!

Luzia 05.08.2019 - 15:07:

Hello! What are the Finished Measurements on this piece? Thanks!

DROPS Design 05.08.2019 kl. 16:11:

Dear Luzia, for the finished measurements, please see the schematics drawing below the pattern, at the bottom od the page. Happy Knitting!

Lisbeth Vindstad 17.06.2019 - 23:47:

Hei. Diagram A.1A, omgang 3: skal jeg lage et kast etter hver 6 maske, og så øke 1 maske etter hver 6 maske på omgang 4?

DROPS Design 18.06.2019 kl. 07:36:

Hei Lisbeth. Når du lager kast er dette en økning. Omgang 3 strikkes fra retten (diagrammet leses da fra høyre mot venstre), så du begynner med å lage 1 kast, så strikker du 6 masker. Du øker altså 1 maske i hver rapport av A.1A på omgang 3. På omgang 4 (=vrangen) er det ingen økinger, alle masker strikkes vrang fra vrangen med natur. På omgang 5 (= retten) strikkes 7 masker, og så lages 1 kast om pinnen (= 1 maske økt). God fornøyelse

Kathy 16.05.2019 - 15:49:

How do you carry the yarn across the garter stitch band

DROPS Design 16.05.2019 kl. 16:03:

Dear Kathy, the garter stitch band stitches are worked with the background colour, just carry the secondary colour on next row from previous row. Happy knitting!

Margit Larsen 10.03.2019 - 16:26:

Jeg har strikket rigtig mange trøjer og bluser fra drops men denne trøje har jeg problemer. Jeg er startet på A3A men 3. og 4. Udtagning kan jeg ikke få maskerne til at passe med mønster. Hvad gør jeg.

DROPS Design 12.03.2019 kl. 14:16:

Hej Margit, Hvis det er de største størrelser du strikker så får du efter 3.udtagning 4 hvide imellem de grønne 3 gange, men sidste gang i diagrammet får du kun 3 hvide. God fornøjelse!

Birgitta 15.09.2018 - 11:31:

Tråkigt att upptäcka att mönstret inte kommer att stämma när man kommit en bit in i 3a. Hur hade ni tänkt att man skulle få ihop mönstret när man ökar så maskantalet inte stämmer med mönstret?

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