DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Winter Berries Jacket

Knitted jacket with round yoke, multi-colored Norwegian pattern and A-shape, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS Karisma.

DROPS 181-15
DROPS Design: Pattern no u-822
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
350-400-450-500-550-600 g color 44 light gray
50 g in all sizes in the following colors:
color 01, off white
color 13, cerise
color 16, dark gray
color 48, wine red
color 72, light pearl gray

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group B)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 80 cm / 16'' + 32") SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 – or the size needed to get 20 stitches and 26 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – for garter stitch at bottom of body.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm / 16'' or 24'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 – for the neckline and garter stitch at bottom of sleeves.

DROPS METAL BUTTONS, Loop (silver) NO 529: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

ELEVATION:
Insert 1 marker mid back. Start from the right side with light gray and knit until you have worked 11-12-13-14-15-16 stitches past the marker, turn, tighten the strand and purl 22-24-26-28-30-32 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 33-36-39-42-45-48 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and purl 44-48-52-56-60-64 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and knit 55-60-65-70-75-80 stitches. Turn, tighten the strand and purl to end of the row (knit the band).

INCREASE TIP-1:
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 100 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 19) = 4.7.
In this example, increase after alternately the 4th and 5th stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next row work the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes. Do not increase over the bands.

KNITTING TIP-1 (for the bands):
On the rows where you have either stripes or pattern border, work the color in the stripe or the background color in pattern over the 5 band stitches in each side as well.

KNITTING TIP-2 (for the multi-colored pattern):
To prevent the knitting gauge becoming tighter when working pattern, it is important that the strands do not tighten at the back of the piece. You can increase a needle size when working pattern if this is a problem.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size. The whole pattern is worked in stockinette stitch.

INCREASE TIP-2 (for the sides in the body):
All increases are worked from the right side!
Start 2 stitches before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 stitches (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On the next row (wrong side) purl the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under sleeve):
Start 3 stitches before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLE:
Decrease for buttonhole on right band (when the garment is worn). In other words, work from the right side until there are 3 stitches left on the needle, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and finish with knit 1. On the next row, knit the yarn over so that there is a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked on the first row from the right side after the garter stitch edge in the neck, then work the 5-5-5-6-6-6 next buttonholes with approx. 9-9-9-8-8-8 cm / 3½"-3½"-3½"-3"-3"-3'' between each.
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JACKET:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front and top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle top down, change to double pointed needles when necessary.

NECKLINE:
Cast on 100-104-108-112-116-120 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and light gray. Work 3 RIDGES – see description above. Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 19-21-23-31-33-35 stitches evenly on row – read INCREASE TIP-1 and work BUTTONHOLE at the end of this row – see description above = 119-125-131-143-149-155 stitches on the needle. Continue by working yoke as described below.

YOKE:
Read KNITTING TIP-1 and 2!
Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and purl 1 row from the wrong side with 5 knitted stitches in each side for bands. For a better fit, you can now work an ELEVATION in the back of the neck – see description above. When the elevation has been completed, work the next row as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1A until there are 6 stitches left on the needle (= 36-38-40-44-46-48 repeats of 3 stitches), work A.1B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue the pattern in this way and at the same time increase on each row marked with an arrow in A.1A as described below – read INCREASE TIP-1 (you always increase on a row from the right side) and REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
On the row with arrow-1 increase 30-30-36-42-42-42 stitches evenly on row = 149-155-167-185-191-197 stitches.
On the row with arrow-2 increase 24-27-30-33-36-36 stitches evenly on row = 173-182-197-218-227-233 stitches.
On the row with arrow -3 increase 24-27-30-33-36-36 stitches evenly on row = 197-209-227-251-263-269 stitches.
On the row with arrow -4 increase 20-26-28-28-30-36 stitches evenly on row = 217-235-255-279-293-305 stitches.
On the row with arrow -5 increase 18-24-28-28-30-34 stitches evenly on row = 235-259-283-307-323-339 stitches.
On the row with arrow -6 increase 16-16-16-16-16-24 stitches evenly on row = 251-275-299-323-339-363 stitches.
On the row with arrow -7 increase 8-12-12-12-16-16 stitches evenly on row = 259-287-311-335-355-379 stitches.
On the row with arrow -8 increase 8-12-12-12-16-16 stitches evenly on row = 267-299-323-347-371-395 stitches.
On the row with arrow -9 increase 6-10-14-14-14-10 stitches evenly on row = 273-309-337-361-385-405 stitches.
After the final increase, the piece measures approx 23-25-26-28-30-32 cm / 9"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-12½'' from the cast-on edge measured mid front.
When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work the next row as follows from the wrong side with light gray: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, purl 40-43-48-51-57-61 stitches (= front piece), place the next 52-64-68-74-74-76 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-10-14 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve), purl the next 79-85-95-101-113-121 stitches (= back piece), place the next 52-64-68-74-74-76 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-10-14 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve), purl 40-43-48-51-57-61 stitches and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch (= front piece). Body and sleeves are now finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 185-197-221-233-257-281 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread, 49-52-58-61-67-73 stitches in from each side = 87-93-105-111-123-135 stitches between the marker threads on the back piece.
The first row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.2A until there are 12 stitches left on the needle (= 14-15-17-18-20-22 repeats of 12 stitches), work A.2B (= 7 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue the pattern in this way. When A.2 has been completed, work stockinette stitch with light gray with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side.
When the piece measures 4 cm / 1½'' from the separation, increase 2 stitches in each side – read INCREASE TIP-2 (= 4 stitches increased). Increase in this way every 4 cm / 1½'' a total of 8 times in each side = 217-229-253-265-289-313 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 32-33-34-34-34-34 cm / 12½"-13"-13½"-13½"-13½"-13½" from the separation. Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work 4 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Bind off with knit from the right side, but to avoid the bind-off edge being tight, bind off with circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. The jacket measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾'' from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 52-64-68-74-74-76 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and, in addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-10-14 stitches which were cast on under the sleeve, with light gray = 60-72-78-84-84-90 stitches on the needle. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-10-14 stitches under the sleeve. Start the round here and knit 1 round. Then work A.2A in the round (= 5-6-6½-7-7-7½ repeats of 12 stitches). When A.2A has been completed, work stockinette stitch with light gray. AT THE SAME TIME on the first round after A.2A decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way a total of 9-14-16-18-18-20 times; in S: Every 11th round, in M: Alternately every 6th and 7th round, in L: Alternately every 5th and 6th round, in XL and XXL: Alternately every 4th and 5th round and in XXXL: Alternately every 3rd and 4th round = 42-44-46-48-48-50 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 38-37-37-35-34-32 cm / 15"-14½"-14½"-13 3/4"-13½"-12½" from the separation. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 and continue with GARTER STITCH in the round – see description above, for 4 cm / 1½''. Bind off with knit, but to avoid the bind-off edge being tight, bind off with double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7. The sleeve measures approx. 42-41-41-39-38-36 cm / 16½"-16"-16"-15 1/4"-15"-14 1/4" from the separation. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 29.11.2018
Correction - YOKE: After the final increase, the piece measures approx 23-25-26-28-30-32 cm / 9"-9 3/4"-10 1/4"-11"-11 3/4"-12½'' from the cast-on edge measured mid front.
When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work the next row as follows from the wrong side with light gray

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = light grey
symbols = off white
symbols = light pearl grey
symbols = dark grey
symbols = wine red
symbols = cerise
symbols = increase row
symbols = start on this row in your size
diagram
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (11)

country flag BELONY wrote:

SUPER. TOUT TOMBE TOUT PILE. Je me suis affolée pour RIEN. J'ai compris maintenant. C'est très bien expliqué. Merci.

13.03.2024 - 16:36

country flag BELONY wrote:

Bonjour \r\nJe viens de me lancer dans le gilet femme malgré vos explications , je n\'arrive pas à comprendre à quel moment je dois m\'occuper de la partie dos et devant. J\'en suis au rangs 41 pour la diminution 6.,si je ne me suis pas trompée.\r\nA QUEL MOMENT JE COMMENCE LA SEPARATION POUR LES MANCHES SVP. MERCI DE ME REPONDRE Véro

12.03.2024 - 17:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Véro, vous devez augmenter pour l'empiècement jusqu'à la flèche-9 du diagramme A.1A; quand ces augmentations sont faites, tricotez encore jusqu'à ce que l'ouvrage mesure 23-25-26-28-30-32 cm de hauteur totale depuis le rang de montage le long du bord de l'un des devants - continuez en gris si besoin après le diagramme;. Vous allez maintenant diviser l'ouvrage et mettre les mailles des manches en attente pour tricoter le bas du gilet et les manches séparément. Bon tricot!

13.03.2024 - 07:47

country flag BELONY wrote:

BonjourJe viens de me lancer dans le gilet femme avec le même motif, malgré vos explications et les explications , je n\'arrive pas à comprendre à quel moment je dois m\'occuper de la partie dos et devant , aussi pour séparer les manches. J\'en suisau rangs 41 pour la diminution 6. si je ne me suis pas trompée. Pouvez-vous me dire où je place les manches et ou je commence le dos devant.A QUEL MOMENT JE COMMENCE LA SEPARATION POUR LES MANCHES SVP. MERCI DE ME REPONDRE

12.03.2024 - 17:47

country flag Sheila Wilkinson wrote:

Drops design 181/15 There is a correction on this pattern which states that "When A1 has been worked 1 time vertically work the next row as follows from the wrong side with light gray" There is nothing else to tell me what to do next. Please help

25.03.2020 - 08:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Wilkinson, if you printed the pattern after the date of the correction,then the online pattern is right and already includes that correction. Happy knitting!

25.03.2020 - 10:10

country flag Annika Hudak wrote:

Hej! Jag har stickat denna kofta till mig själv och älskar den! Det var roligt att sticka uppifrån och ner och göra framkant etc direkt. Nu skulle jag vilja göra motsvarande i herrmodell. Dvs en kofta uppifrån och ner, runt ok samt något nordiskt mönster i garn motsvarande karisma. Går det att få tag på ett sådant mönster? Mvh Annika

07.02.2020 - 14:57

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Annika, så här söker du :) nordisk - herr - uppifrån och ner

11.02.2020 - 11:51

country flag Haagen wrote:

Bonjour, Je voudrais réaliser ce joli modèle. La couleur rose qui parait sur la photo ne me semble pas être la même que celle présentée qui est plus fuchsia. Que me conseillez-vous?

31.01.2020 - 18:40

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Haagen, en fonction de l'éclairage et de l'environnement, la même couleur peut apparaître différemment. N'hésitez pas à contacter votre magasin DROPS (même par mail ou téléphone) pour toute aide au choix des couleurs. Bon tricot!

03.02.2020 - 09:12

country flag Desgranges Liliane wrote:

Comment faire pour que la base du gilet ne roulotte pas ? Merci

05.03.2018 - 09:45

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Desgranges, vous pouvez bloquer votre gilet à la fin (humidifiez-le et faites le sécher à plat, avec des épingles si besoin). Bon tricot!

05.03.2018 - 09:55

country flag Jasmin Gold wrote:

Sehr geehrtes Drops Team, laut Anleitung muss nach der 9 . Zunahme eine Rück-Reihe mit den stillgelegten Maschen gestrickt werden und danach die Ärmel und der Rumpfteil extra (Muster A.2a folgt), jedoch fehlen vom Muster A.1 noch drei Reihe vom Muster . Soll ich nun erst A.1 fertig Stricken ( wie auf dem Dazugehörigen Bild dargestellt) oder sofort A.2a stricken ? Wenn ja dann fehlen diese drei Reihen im Muster ! Mit freundlichen Grüßen

18.02.2018 - 11:06

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Gold, ja A.1 müssen Sie bis zur Ende stricken, dann A.2 anfangen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.02.2018 - 09:53

country flag Linda Kozakewich wrote:

I am unable to find out exactly how much yarn is needed for any of the sizes you've stated as well as exactly the measurement of the stated sizes. Am new knitted and really like this pattern. Can you help me please.

04.12.2017 - 07:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Linda, for example, in size S you will need: 350 g colour 44 light grey, 50 g colour 01 off white, 50 g colour 13 cerise, 50 g colour 16 dark grey, 50 g colour 48 wine red and 50 g colour 72 light pearl grey. As for measurement, please see our lesson How to read a schematic drawing. Happy knitting!

04.12.2017 - 08:36

Anna Lindborg wrote:

När jag har stickat förhöjningen till oket är det dags att börja sticka mönster enligt A1.1. När jag tittar i mönstret använder jag först ljust pärlgrå och sedan wienröd. Men när jag tittar på bilden av koftan ser jag tydligt att mönstret börjar med ljusgrå och natur. Har jag missförstått instruktionen, eller saknas den första ljusgrå/natur-delen av mönstret? Tack på förhand! Mvh Anna

16.11.2017 - 17:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hej, delen med ljusgrå och natur finns med nederst i diagram A.1.

17.11.2017 - 17:24