DROPS / 181 / 35

Silver Leaf by DROPS Design

Set consists of: Knitted hat, neck warmer and wrist warmer with leaf pattern and garter stitch. Set is knitted in DROPS Merino Extra Fine.

  • Silver Leaf / DROPS 181-35 - Set consists of: Knitted hat, neck warmer and wrist warmer with leaf pattern and garter stitch.
Set is knitted in DROPS Merino Extra Fine.
  • Silver Leaf / DROPS 181-35 - Set consists of: Knitted hat, neck warmer and wrist warmer with leaf pattern and garter stitch.
Set is knitted in DROPS Merino Extra Fine.
DROPS design: Pattern me-114
Yarn group B
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For the entire set use approx. 350-400 g DROPS Merino Extra Fine.
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HAT:
Size: S/M – M/L
Head circumference: 54/56 - 56/58 cm / 21 1/4''/22'' - 22''/22 3/4''
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100-150 g color 08, light beige

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 4 mm / US 6 – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS POINTED Needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 for rib – or size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.
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NECK WARMER:
Size: S/M – M/L
Measurements: Circumference at the top: approx. 38-42 cm / 15"-16½" Circumference at the bottom: approx. 114-129 cm / 45"-50 3/4'' Height: 28 cm / 11''
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
200 g for both sizes in color 08, light beige

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 for rib – or size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.
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WRIST WARMERS:
Size: S/M – M/L
Measurements: Circumference: 16-18 cm / 6 1/4"-7'' Length: approx. 20 cm / 8''
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
100 g for both sizes in color 08, light beige

Piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
“Alternative yarn (yarn group B)” - see link below.

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 4 mm / US 6 – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
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DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour DROPS Merino Extra Fine uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INFORMATION FOR PATTERN:

GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth - applies to hat and wrist warmers):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP:
All decreases are done from the right side.
Decrease 1 stitch after marker thread as follows: Knit 2 together.

PATTERN:
Hat: See diagram A.1 and A.2 - choose diagram for your size.
Neck warmer: See diagram A.3.
Wrist warmers: See diagram A.1.
Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.
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HAT:
Worked back and forth on needle and sewn together when finished.
Cast on 99-105 stitches on needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Merino Extra Fine. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Work A.2 (= 9-7 repetitions of 11-15 stitches) until piece measures 4 cm / 1½''. Switch to needle size 4 mm / US 6. Work as follows: Work in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above - over the first 44-45 stitches, work A.1 (= 11-15 stitches), work in garter stitch over the last 44-45 stitches. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Continue back and forth until 3 repetitions of A.1 have been worked vertically. Piece measures approx. 20-23 cm / 8"-9''. Now work piece in garter stitch over all stitches. Work 1 ridge and decrease 0-6 stitches evenly on first row = 99 stitches. Now insert 11 marker threads from right side as follows: Work 1 stitch in garter stitch, insert 1 marker thread, * work 9 stitches in garter stitch, insert 1 marker thread *, work from *-* until 8 stitches remain (= 10 times in total), finish with 8 stitches in garter stitch. Knit 1 row from wrong side.
On next row from right side, decrease 1 stitch after each marker thread (= 11 stitches decreased) – read DECREASE TIP! Decrease like this every 6th row 2 more times, then every 4th row 4 times = 22 stitches. On next row from right side knit stitches together 2 by 2 = 11 stitches. Hat measures approx. 28-31 cm / 11"-12 1/4''.

ASSEMBLY:
Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining stitches, tighten together and fasten. Sew hat together mid back, sew inside 1 edge stitch.
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NECK WARMER:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 128-144 stitches on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Merino Extra Fine. Work rib (= knit 1/purl 1) until piece measures 12 cm / 4¾''. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work according to A.3 (= 8-9 repetitions of 16 stitches). REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Continue pattern until A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically = 240-270 stitches. Then loosely bind off by knitting.
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WRIST WARMER:
Worked back and forth on needle and sewn together when finished.
Cast on 34-37 stitches on needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Merino Extra Fine. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above, then work as follows - from right side: 12-13 stitches in garter stitch, A.1 (= 11 stitches), 11-13 stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures approx. 20 cm / 8'', adjust after one whole or half repetition vertically, work 2 ridges back and forth over all stitches. Then bind off by knitting from the right side. Work another wrist warmer the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew together wrist warmer in outer loops of the outermost stitch.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 31.07.2019
Correction - Diagram A.3: Purl stitch added after 2. yarn over on row 28

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = 1 yarn over between 2 stitches
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
symbols = no stitch, skip this square
symbols = purl 2 together
diagram
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 181-35) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (18)

country flag Paule HOURDEBAIGT 10.02.2021 - 07:49:

Bonjour. Le modèle de tour de cou est magnifique. Pensez vous qu'en prolongeant le modèle je peux faire un pull? Merci

user icon DROPS Design 10.02.2021 kl. 08:37:

Bonjour Mme Hourdebaight, fort probablement, vous trouverez ici différents pulls au point de feuilles qui pourront peut être vous inspirer. Bon tricot!

country flag Laura Meraviglia 05.07.2020 - 09:10:

Scusate, oggi è riapparso! Grazie

country flag Laura Maeraviglia 04.07.2020 - 16:17:

Buongiorno, come mai lo schema A3 relativo allo scaldacollo è sparito? Ero quasi alla fine del lavoro... Help please!

country flag Claudia 01.04.2020 - 17:37:

Hej kan man som alternativ bruge Eskimo til halsedisen? Er ikke særlig god til dem med antal masker. Mvh. C.

country flag MONA FONNES 14.02.2020 - 21:58:

Hei. Jeg har strikket halsen, og den ble veldig fin. Nå strikker jeg på lua, men får ikke bladmønsteret frem som på halsen. Jeg lurer på om det skulle vært en - i ruten før 2 m rett sammen og i ruten etter løs over 1 rett? Sånn som det er i A3

user icon DROPS Design 18.02.2020 kl. 09:26:

Hej Mona, Det skal der ikke være ifølge opskriften, men det gør du bare hvis du synes det er pænest :)

country flag Lene Kilde 29.07.2019 - 12:35:

Kan det passe, at omgang 28 ikke strikkes ens i starten af mønsteret. Første mønsterrække starter med 1 vrang og ender på 1 ret.

user icon DROPS Design 31.07.2019 kl. 14:41:

Hei Lene. Om du sikter til maske nummer 13 på rad 28 i A.3, så ser det ut som den egentlig skal være vrang, slik at det blir en vrangmaske på hver side av kastene i bladmønsteret. Vi skal få rettet dette snarest. Takk for beskjed og god fornøyelse

country flag Line Jørgensen 15.02.2019 - 21:57:

Hej, Jeg har prøvet den opskrift flere gange. jeg synes resultatet er meget fint og opskriften er meget let at forstår når man er nybegynder :) Jeg har ellers ledet efter så nemt opskrift lige som den, men svært fine andre.

country flag PATRIZIA 31.01.2019 - 21:37:

Per lo scaldacollo, vorrei sapere come si arriva a 30 maglie finali se si parte con 16 maglie? e come e' possibile che 128/144 maglie d'avvio, diventino 240/270 a fine schema A3. GRAZIE

user icon DROPS Design 31.01.2019 kl. 22:20:

Buongiorno Patrizia. Nel diag.A3, su alcuni ferri, vengono lavorate delle maglie gettate senza che queste siano compensate da delle diminuzioni. P.es ai ferri 4,8,12 vengono aumentate 2 maglie su ogni ferro (nella parte più a sinistra del diagramma). Analogamente su altri ferri. Si passa così da 16 m a 30 m (14 m in più) per ogni ripetizione del diagramma. Il diag. viene ripetuto 8/9 volte sul giro portando così il numero delle maglie a 240/270. Buon lavoro!

country flag Lizeth 23.10.2018 - 17:09:

Sorry, ik zag het inmiddels al: zowel de eerste als de laatste steek moet averecht zijn (van het eerste deel van nld 28). Heb het gezien bij hetzelfde punt in het blaadje dat al af is (nld 16, tweede deel).

country flag Lizeth 23.10.2018 - 14:26:

Goedemiddag, zojuist ben ik begonnen met naald 28 van het A3-patroon van de silver leaf halswarmer en ik zie een afwijking: het eerste stukje van nld 28 is (in tegenstelling tot álle overige patroondelen) asymmetrisch, de eerste en laatste steek is verschillend. Klopt het dat beide steken recht zouden moeten zijn? Vriendelijke groet, Lizeth

user icon DROPS Design 23.10.2018 kl. 18:42:

Dag Lizeth,

Mooi dat je het gevonden hebt en bedankt voor de terugkoppeling in het bericht hierboven. Veel breiplezier!

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