DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g

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DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g

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DROPS Buttons
Arched (white) No. 522

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DROPS Needles & Hooks

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.90£.

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Nineveh

Knitted jacket with round yoke, lace pattern and A-shape, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS BabyMerino and DROPS Kid-Silk.

DROPS 179-7

#ninevehcardigan

DROPS Design: Pattern no bm-037
Yarn group A + A or C
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
250-250-300-300-350-400 g colour 02, off white
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-125-125-150-150-175 g colour 01, off white

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 5MM – or the size needed to get 17 stitches and 22 rows stocking stitch with 1 strand of each quality on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm) SIZE 4.5 MM for garter stitch edges – or the size needed to get 18 stitches and 23 rows stocking stitch with 1 strand of each quality on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS MOTHER OF PEARL BUTTONS, Arched (white) NO 522: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

ELEVATION:
Start from the right side and knit the first 51-55-60-60-64-69 stitches, insert one marker (= mid back – NOTE: in M + XXL insert the marker in the next stitch, in the other sizes insert the marker before the next stitch).
Knit the next 8-9-10-10-10-11 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and knit back 16-19-20-20-21-22 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and knit 24-29-30-30-32-33 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and knit 32-39-40-40-43-44 stitches back, turn, tighten the strand and knit 40-51-50-50-56-55 stitches, turn, tighten the strand and knit 48-62-60-60-68-66 stitches back, turn, tighten the strand and knit to end of row. Knit 1 row back over all stitches from the wrong side.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. The diagrams show all the rows in the pattern seen from the right side. Choose diagram for your size (for diagram A.2).

INCREASE TIP:
To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the row (e.g. 94 stitches), minus the bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 8) = 10.5. In this example, increase alternately after approx. every 10th and 11th stitch. Do not increase over the bands.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over twisted to prevent holes.

DECREASE TIP (for mid under the sleeve):
Start 4 stitches before the stitch with the marker thread, knit 2 together, A.5 (= 5 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased).

BUTTONHOLE:
The first buttonhole is worked on the first row from the right side after the garter stitch edge in the neck, then work the next 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 9-9-9-8-8-8 cm between each.
Decrease to buttonhole on the right band as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left on the row (seen from the right side), make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 1. On the next row knit the yarn over so that there is a hole.
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JACKET:
The piece is worked back and forth with circular needle from mid front. It is worked top down. The sleeves are worked in the round with double pointed needles.

YOKE:
Cast on 94-98-102-106-112-118 stitches (including 5 band stitches in each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 4.5 mm and 1 strand Baby Merino + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 2 RIDGES – see description above. Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 8-13-18-14-17-20 stitches evenly on row – read INCREASE TIP = 102-111-120-120-129-138 stitches. Knit 1 row from the wrong side.
For a better fit, you can now work a small ELEVATION at the back of the neck – see description above. When the elevation has been completed, change to circular needle size 5 mm. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * A.1 (= 2 stitches), A.2 (= 7 stitches) *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row (= 10-11-12-12-13-14 repeats of 9 stitches), work A.1 (= 2 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch – remember BUTTONHOLE on the right band – see description above. Continue the pattern in this way and increase as shown in the diagram. When A.1/A.2 has been completed 1 time in height, there are 252-276-300-324-350-376 stitches on the row. Work 1-3-7-1-5-1 rows stocking stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side and, at the same time, increase 1-5-9-1-3-1 stitches evenly on the first row = 253-281-309-325-353-377 stitches. The piece now measures approx. 20-21-23-25-27-29 cm from the cast-on edge (measured mid front). (If the measurements do not match, you can continue working stocking stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front until the piece is the right length).
The next row is worked as follows from the right side: Work the first 41-44-48-51-56-61 stitches in garter stitch and stocking stitch as before (= left front piece), place the next 50-58-64-66-70-72 stitches on 1 thread (= left sleeve), cast on 7-7-7-9-9-9 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve), work the next 71-77-85-91-101-111 stitches in stocking stitch as before (= back piece), place the next 50-58-64-66-70-72 stitches on 1 thread (= right sleeve), cast on 7-7-7-9-9-9 new stitches on the needle (= in the side under the sleeve) and work the remaining 41-44-48-51-56-61 stitches in stocking stitch and garter stitch as before (= right front piece). The body and sleeves are now finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

BODY:
= 167-179-195-211-231-251 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the 45th-48th-52nd-56th-61st-66th stitch in from each side (= 77-83-91-99-109-119 stitches between the stitches with the marker threads on the back piece). Work stocking stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front. AT THE SAME TIME on the next row from the right side, work A.3 over the middle 5 stitches in each side (i.e. over the stitches with the marker thread + 2 stitches on either side of these). Continue with stocking stitch, A.3 in the sides and 5 band stitches in garter stitch in each side towards mid front and increase on the 7th and 15th row in diagram A.3 (= every 8th row in the diagram) until the piece measures 31-32-32-32-32-32 cm from where the piece was divided. You should now have increased approx. 8 times in each side = approx. 199-211-227-243-263-283 stitches on the row. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.4A until there are 6 stitches left on the row, work A.4B (= 1 stitch) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. When A.4 has been completed in height, cast off with knit from the right side. To prevent a tight cast-off edge, you can use a larger needle or make 1 yarn over which is cast off after approx. every 4th stitch. The jacket measures approx. 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVE:
Place the 50-58-64-66-70-72 stitches from the thread on double pointed needles size 5 mm and, in addition, knit up 1 stitch in each of the 7-7-7-9-9-9 stitches cast on under the sleeve (= 57-65-71-75-79-81 stitches). Insert a marker thread in the middle stitch under the sleeve. The start of the round is after the 7-7-7-9-9-9 new stitches. Work stocking stitch in the round, but over the middle 5 stitches under the sleeve (= the stitch with the marker thread + 2 stitches on each side of this stitch) work A.5. When the piece measures 3 cm in all sizes, decrease 2 stitches mid under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease in this way every 8th-5th-4th-3rd-3rd-2nd round a total of 6-9-11-11-11-10 times = 45-47-49-53-57-61 stitches. When the piece measures 22-22-21-19-17-15 cm from the transition between yoke and sleeve, insert 3 marker threads in the piece (without working the stitches) as follows: Insert the 1st marker thread at the beginning of the round, insert the 2nd marker thread after 15-16-17-18-19-21 stitches, insert the 3rd marker thread after 15-16-16-18-19-20 stitches = 15-15-16-17-19-20 stitches left on the round after the 3rd marker thread. On the next round, increase 1 stitch after each marker thread by making 1 yarn over (= 3 stitches increased – the yarn overs are knitted twisted on the next round to prevent holes).
Increase in this way every 4th round a total of 6 times = 63-65-67-71-75-79 stitches on the needle. Continue working stocking stitch and A.5 mid under the sleeve until the piece measures 31-31-30-28-26-24 cm from the transition between yoke and sleeve. Change to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Work A.4A in the round and, at the same time, decrease 1 stitch on the first round = 62-64-66-70-74-78 stitches. When A.4A has been completed, cast off with knit. To avoid a tight cast-off edge, you can use a bigger needle or make 1 yarn over which is cast off after approx. every 4th stitch. The sleeve measures approx. 35-35-34-32-30-28 cm from the transition between yoke and sleeve. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

	= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
	= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
	= knit 2 together
	= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
	= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted together stitches
	= last row in the different sizes in diagram A.1
	= knitting direction

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Nineveh

Knitting Andrea, United States

Comments / Questions (17)

Carla wrote:

Salve. Tenendo presente che questa maglia è lavorata dall’alto verso il basso mi sembra che anche il diagramma dovrebbe essere invertito. O mi sbaglio?

15.11.2024 - 21:20

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Carla, i diagrammi si leggono sempre dal basso verso l'alto, da destra verso sinistra. Buon lavoro!

16.11.2024 - 22:20

Mara wrote:

Buonasera. Vorrei realizzare questo capo. Ma non capisco se il diagramma va seguito dall’alto verso il basso o viceversa.? Grazie

15.11.2024 - 21:08

Buonasera Mara, i diagrammi si leggono sempre dal basso verso l'alto, da destra verso sinistra per la lavorazione in piano. Buon lavoro!

16.11.2024 - 22:21

Anna wrote:

Hei, lurer på hvordan eg bør vaske dette plagget? SIden de to garnene har jo veldig forskjellig vaskeanvisning.

27.06.2022 - 16:01

Hej Anna, Hvis du føler at du er nødt til at vaske jakken (mange vasker ikke uld, de hænger den ud (dog ikke i sollys)) så skal du følge vaskeanvisningen for DROPS Kid-Silk. Sørg for at ikke strikke for løst. Vask separat. Brug ikke skyllemiddel og lad den ligge og tørre. God fornøjelse!

29.06.2022 - 10:08

Róża Hoffmann wrote:

Proszę o pomoc w wykonaniu modelu NINEVEH 179-7. Nie wiem co dalej w miejscu TYŁ I PRZÓD od słów W TYM SAMYM CZASIE . Chodzi mi o to , że nie wiem jak ,gdzie i w jakiej ilości wykonać schematy i dodawanie oczek. Jeżeli ktoś może mi pomóc będę bardzo wdzięczna. Pozdrawiam Róża.

18.09.2020 - 12:39

Witaj Różo! Dalej przerabiać dżersejem ze schematem A.3 na bokach i dodawać oczka w okrążeniach 7 i 15 schematu A.3 (= co 8 okrążeń schematu) aż długość robótki od jej podziału wynosi 31-32-32-32-32-32 cm. Powodzenia!

21.09.2020 - 19:11

Róża wrote:

Jestem w trakcie dziergania modelu NINEVEH Drops 179-7 utknęłam w miejscu , TYŁ I PRZÓD' w momencie , W TYM SAMYM CZASIE' nie wiem czy schemat A3 wykonać pod rękawami i co dalej. Jeżeli ktoś mi pomoże będę wdzięczna. Pozdrawiam Róża.

18.09.2020 - 12:31

Witaj Różo! Schemat A.3 jest wykonywany pod rękawami (ponad 5 oczkami na środku z każdej strony tj. ponad oczkiem z nitką markerem + 2 oczka z każdej strony), i biegnie dalej wzdłuż boków. Na końcu wykonujesz schemat A.4 przez całe okrążenie. Powodzenia!

21.09.2020 - 18:58

Isabel Fernández Vicioso wrote:

Terminado, ha quedado tal cual el modelo, gracias por hacer el tricotar de forma tan amena, fácil, entretenida y con terminaciones originales y espectaculares.

02.04.2020 - 20:35

Lisa wrote:

Pattern 179-8. I have just finished knitting A1 & A2 in the yolk size M. The pattern states that I should have 264 stitched but I only have 253. If I finish on row 39 the stitches of A1 & A2 total stitches knitted is 23 then 11 times also equals 253. Am I reading the pattern incorrectly and missed something? From here I believe I knit next 3 rows in stockinette stitch while increasing on 1st row by 6 stitches which will bring me to 259 not 270

29.10.2019 - 12:32

Dear Lisa, you should increase a total of 7 stitches in each A.2, so that when A.1 and A.2 have been worked you should have 276 stitches in size M: 5 front band stitches, *A.1 = 2 sts, A.2 = 22 sts*, repeat from *-* a total of 11 times, A.1 (= 2 sts), 5 front band sts = 5+ 24x11 (=264 sts) + 2+5= 276 sts. Happy knitting!

04.11.2019 - 13:19

Stephanie Greenside wrote:

Drops Pattern 179-7 Nineveh For a lrg ,XL pattern states 300gm (or 1146 yds of Baby Merino & working together with 150gm (1380 yds of Kid-silk. ) So 2 part questions, if working the 2 different yarns,wouldn't I be short approx. 234 yds of Baby Merino. And second question - how many yards of worsted (18stsx24rows) 180yds/per 100 gms. of MM starlette, or it would be lovely in a class 3 (22stsx28rows ) Of DK ,as I think the pattern would be lost in the worsted .

25.10.2019 - 18:13

Dear Mrs Greenside, you need 300 g BabyMerino = 6 balls x 191yds = 1146 yds + 125 g Kid-Silk = 5 balls x 230 yds = 1150 yds (kid-silk = 25 g/ball). You should then have enough both yarn if your tension is right. If you want to work with only 1 strand, you can use 1 strand yarn group C (= 2 strands yarn group A) - read more about this here. Happy knitting!

04.11.2019 - 11:23

Elisabet wrote:

Jag håller på med fram- och bakstyckena nu , har alltså gjort oket klart och satt maskorna för ärmarna på tråd. Men när jag sen stickat ärmarna måste det ju bli ett hål under, som ska monteras ihop med bålen? Eller hur kan jag göra så det blir helt?

17.06.2019 - 21:56

Hei Elisabeth. Når du setter maskene fra tråden tilbake på pinnen for å strikke ermer, skal du samtisdig plukke opp 1 maske i hver av de 7-7-7-9-9-9 maskene du la opp under ermet på bolen. På den måten blir det ingen hull under ermene. God fornøyelse

18.06.2019 - 07:49

Jag undrar över hur det kan vara möjligt att mönstret stämmer. 17 maskor på bredden = 10 cm enligt deklarationen i mönstret. Men när hålmönstret och ökningarna (A1 och A2) är stickade ska det vara 324 maskor på bredden i stil XL. Nästan 2 meter alltså runt axlarna?

27.05.2019 - 19:01

Hei Elisabeth. Det stemmer, men når du er kommet dit at du har 324 masker, har du alle maskene fra både ermer og bolen på pinnen. Bærestykket er ferdig, og når du så deler inn arbeidet rett etterpå, vil du ha 211 masker til bolen, dvs at brystmålet = ca 118 cm (5-6 cm trekkes fra pga stolpene). God fornøyelse

28.05.2019 - 07:29

Nineveh

Knitted jacket with round yoke, lace pattern and A-shape, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS BabyMerino and DROPS Kid-Silk.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to work a jumper top down

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How to increase/decrease evenly!

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

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Nineveh

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Nineveh

Knitted jacket with round yoke, lace pattern and A-shape, worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL. The piece is worked in DROPS BabyMerino and DROPS Kid-Silk.

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	DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 100% Wool	3.50 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Baby Merino mix 100% Wool	3.50 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 100% Wool 3.50 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Baby Merino mix 100% Wool 3.50 £ /50g Order