DROPS Extra / 0-1381

The Cat Cave by DROPS Design

Felted house and balls for your cat, knitted in DROPS Eskimo.

Tags: baskets, felted, pets,
DROPS Design: Pattern no ee-591
Yarn group E or C + C
Will suit a cat of height 22 - 28 cm / 8 3/4"-11''.
Measurements before felting: Height: 37-46 cm / 14½"-18"''. Circumference: 112-136 cm / 44"-53½''.
Measurements after felting: Height: 20-25 cm / 8"-9 3/4''. Circumference: 87-104 cm / 34 1/4"-41''.
DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
400-500 g color 46, medium gray

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 9 mm/US 13 – or the size needed to get 10 stitches and 14 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height before felting. After felting: 13 stitches and 26 rows.

Measurements: The ball will be almost the same size before and after felting.
DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group E)
50 g in the following color suggestions:
color 35, lime
color 05, petrol
color 31, pastel blue

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 2.85 $ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 3.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 3.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
The piece is worked in one piece and top down.

The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles – change to circular needle when you have enough stitches. Cast on 8 stitches with double pointed needles size 9 mm / US 13 and Eskimo. Work 1 round where you knit 2 stitches in each stitch = 16 stitches. Insert 8 marker threads in the piece with 2 stitches between each marker thread. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Continue in stockinette stitch and increase as follows: Increase with 1 yarn over after each marker thread (= 8 stitches increased), on the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes. Repeat the increases every 2nd round a total of 2-3 times and every 3rd round a total of 10-12 times = 112-136 stitches. The piece measures approx. 51-61 cm / 20"-24'' in diameter. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE!

Work stockinette stitch in the round with circular needle until the edge measures 9-11 cm / 3½"-4½". Then work stockinette stitch back and forth on the circular needle. Work the next row (= from the right side) as follows: bind off the first 10-14 stitches for the opening, knit 2 together, knit the next 98-118 stitches, knit 2 together = 100-120 stitches. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. The next row is worked as follows: * Knit 2 together, knit until there are 2 stitches left, knit 2 together (= 2 stitches decreased). Purl 1 row from the wrong side *, repeat from *-* a total of 3-4 times = 94-112 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch back and forth until the piece measures 22-28 cm / 8 3/4"-11''. Continue with stockinette stitch and cast on 1 stitch at the end of the next 8-10 rows = 102-122 stitches. At the end of the next row from the right side, cast on 10-14 new stitches = 112-136 stitches. The piece measures approx. 28-35 cm / 11"-13 3/4''. Continue working stockinette stitch in the round over all stitches until the piece measures 37-46 cm / 14½"-18''.

Now you are going to decrease stitches inwards to the middle of the bottom – continue working in the round with circular needle – change to double pointed needles when you need to. Insert 8 marker threads in the piece with 14-17 stitches between each marker thread. Continue working stockinette stitch and decrease as follows: Decrease by knitting 2 stitches together after each marker thread (= 8 stitches decreased). Repeat these decreases every 3rd round a total of 10-12 times and every 2nd round a total of 2-3 times = 16-16 stitches. Then knit 2 and 2 stitches together = 8-8 stitches. Cut the strand, pull the strand through the remaining stitches and pull tight. Fasten the strand well.

Put a beach ball inside the cat house and place it in the washing machine using a detergent without enzymes and optical bleaches. Wash hot at 40C/104F with the usual centrifuge and without pre-wash. Afterwards, shape the cat house to the right measurements while still wet. Later, wash the cat house as a normal woollen item.

The yarn is wound into a ball in the desired size. Place the ball in the toe of a nylon tight and tie a knot so that it stays put and does not move. If the tight is long enough, place one more ball inside and tie another knot so that the ball stays put and does not move – maybe more. Now you can felt (see the description below), the tight with the balls inside and then cut the balls free and they will have been perfectly felted.
If you wish to use the tight more than once for felting, you can tie a thread around the tight after each ball instead of making a knot.

Place the balls in the washing machine using a detergent without enzymes and optical bleaches and wash together with a towel. Wash hot at 40C/104F with the usual centrifuge and without pre-wash. Afterwards, shape the balls while they are still wet. Later, wash the balls as normal woollen items.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1381) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (11)

Anne Marie 02.05.2020 - 19:32:

Je n'ai pas de chat mais une petite corbeille de ce genre conviendrait parfaitement à ma petite chienne. En tous cas, elle semble confortable et me plaît beaucoup.. Pourrait-on avoir des explications pour une corbeille convenant à une chienne de la taille d'un westie ?

DROPS Design 04.05.2020 kl. 12:08:

Bonjour Anne-Marie, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande. Merci de bien vouloir contacter votre magasin DROPS pour toute assistance complémentaire. Bon tricot!

Grethe Hillersöy 24.04.2020 - 18:17:

Eg enda opp med å bruke 1,5 nøste meir enn det som var oppgitt i oppskrifta.

Maiken 02.02.2020 - 18:33:

I oppskriften står det: Mål før toving: Høyde: 37-46 cm. Under avsnittet TOPPEN, så står det: HERFRA MÅLES ARBEIDET VIDERE KANTEN: Arbeidet måler ca 28-35 cm. Videre strikkes det glattstrikk rundt over alle masker til arbeidet måler 37-46 cm. Spørsmålene mine er: 1. Hvordan kan hele arbeidet før toving måle 46cm, når det FØR bunnen strikkes skal måle 46 cm? 2.Og hvis arbeidet skal måles etter toppen, da blir jo også målene feil?

DROPS Design 03.02.2020 kl. 10:57:

Hei Maiken. Når du er ferdig å strikke toppen (ca 61 cm i diameter), så skal det måles HERFRA (ikke fra toppen/begynnelsen, men etter at toppen er strikket). Nå skal det strikkes til arbeidet måler 46 cm. I oppskriften står det HØYDE før toving: 46 cm (toppen/taket og bunnen er ikke medregnet i disse 46 cm). God Fornøyelse!

Lena 25.01.2020 - 19:49:

Mitt kattbo faller ihop när det har torkat efter tovningen. Har ni något tips? Ska jag tvätta det igen för att tova det mer?

DROPS Design 31.01.2020 kl. 08:21:

Hej Lena, Ja det lyder til at du behøver tova den en gang til :)

Mary Zeak 13.01.2020 - 04:36:

Thank you for your answer about what to use for the filler when placing it is the washer to felt it. I still do not understand what the D_I_A_M_E_T_E_R of a beach ball is, or the diameter of the substitute plastic materials.

DROPS Design 13.01.2020 kl. 07:15:

Hi Mary, The diameter is the width of the ball at its widest. Happy crafting!

Mary Zeak 08.01.2020 - 04:51:

Felting is a new skill. What size is he beach ball? or how large should the bubble wrap filler be?

DROPS Design 08.01.2020 kl. 11:07:

Hello Mary! You can use anything you have. You could also fill a bigger plastic bag with other bags and use this instead of the ball. Hope it helps!

Claudine 10.11.2019 - 10:45:

Pourquoi ne pas mettre une vidéo .je n ai rien compris. Merci

DROPS Design 11.11.2019 kl. 10:47:

Bonjour Claudine, suivez attentivement les explications, et n'hésitez pas à poser votre question ici si besoin; pour toute assistance personnalisée, vous pouvez également contacter votre magasin, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!

Carol 11.08.2019 - 03:02:

Just finished reading about using a beachball in the washer. I purchased some heavy duty rubber balloons that can be inflated to almost beach ball size and was going to hot water felt and then insert the balloon after and more than one if necessary. Any comments about how this might work (or fail)?

DROPS Design 12.08.2019 kl. 11:22:

Dear Carol, you can try but we recommand a beach ball. Happy Felting!

Maryann Cavlier 15.04.2019 - 02:22:

How do you possibly fit a beach ball into a washing machine??? I have a top loader, and there is no way something that large would have enough room with the agitatir in the middle.

DROPS Design 15.04.2019 kl. 21:17:

Dear Maryann, instead of the beach ball, you can full the piece with crumpled nylon bags, or the popping plastic uused for packaging, just make sure you have them in a way that would stay inside. Also you can air the agitation if you put an old plasic slipper, a towel or even a pair of jeans to the washing, but the average washing cycle is usually enough. Happy felting!

Irena 22.10.2017 - 12:02:

Cudny koszyk!!!!! Chciałabym zrobić taki, ale mam pytanie odnośnie prania - czy nie da się po prostu włożyć do pralki i wyprać? Czy ta piłka jest bezwzględnie konieczna?

DROPS Design 22.10.2017 kl. 18:57:

Witaj Ireno. Robótka jest dosyć duża przed filcowaniem. Bez wsparcia może się nieładnie powyciągać. A chodzi nam o ten piękny krągły kształt dla kociego pupila :) Powodzenia!

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