DROPS / 178 / 47

Spanish Sonata by DROPS Design

Dress with raglan, A-shape and lace pattern, worked top down in Muskat. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS Design: Pattern no r-714
Yarn group B
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Sizes: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
650-700-800-850-950-1050 g color 18, white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40, 60 and 80 cm / 16", 24'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or the size needed to get 21 stitches x 28 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 for ridges – or the size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows stockinette stitch on 10 cm / 4'' in width and 10 cm / 4'' in height.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

INCREASE TIP-2:
Work as far as 2 stitches before the marker thread in the side, 1 yarn over, knit 4 stitches (the marker sits in the middle of these stitches), 1 yarn over. Repeat in the other side (= 4 stitches increased on the round). On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To work out how to increase evenly along the round, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 122 stitches) and divide the stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 12) = 10.1. In this example, increase after approx. every 10th stitch.

RAGLAN:
INCREASE EVERY 2ND ROUND:
Increase to raglan on each side of A.1 in each transition between body and sleeves as follows: Start 1 stitch before A.1A, make 1 yarn over, knit 1, work A.1A-A.1C (there are 2 stitches increased to raglan in the diagrams), knit 1, make 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs so that there are holes.

INCREASE EVERY 4TH ROUND:
ROUND 1: Start 1 stitch before A.1A: 1 yarn over, knit 1, work A.1a-A.1c, knit 1, 1 yarn over. Repeat before and after the next A.1a-A.1c.
ROUND 2: Knit the yarn overs so that there are holes.
ROUND 3: Start 2 stitches before A.1A: Knit 2 stitches together, 1 yarn over, knit 1, work A.1A-A.1C, knit 1, 1 yarn over, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch – no increase in stitches, but the row of holes is continued as before. Repeat before and after the next A.1A-A.1C.
ROUND 4: Knit the yarn overs, there will be holes.


DECREASE TIP (for the sleeve):
Decrease 2 stitches as follows: Work until there are 4 stitches left before the marker, knit 3 stitches together (= 2 stitches decreased), knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), knit 3 stitches twisted together (= 2 stitches decreased).
Decrease 1 stitch as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 stitches together (= 1 stitch decreased), knit 2 (the marker thread sits in the middle of these stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over (= 1 stitch decreased).
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DRESS:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle from mid back, top down. Cast on 118-122-122-126-126-134 stitches with circular needle size 3,5 mm / US 4 and Muskat. Work 2 RIDGES – see description above, on the next to last round of the ridges increase 12-12-16-16-20-24 stitches evenly along the round – READ INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced) = 130-134-138-142-146-158 stitches. Change to circular needles 4 mm and work pattern as follows: Knit 19-20-21-22-23-26 stitches (= half the back piece), 1 yarn over, knit 1, A.1A (= 7 stitches), A.1B (= 12 stitches), A.1C (= 6 stitches) (= right sleeve), knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 38-40-42-44-46-52 stitches (= front piece), 1 yarn over, knit 1, A.1A, A.1B, A.1C (= left sleeve), knit 1, 1 yarn over, knit 19-20-21-22-23-26 stitches (= half the back piece). The first increase to RAGLAN – see description above, is now finished = 138-142-146-150-154-166 stitches. From now onwards, the increases on the body and sleeves are different. On the body, you increase every 2nd round a total of 14-16-17-25-32-34 times and then every 4th round 4-5-6-3-0-0 times. On the sleeve, you increase every 2nd round (the increases are shown in diagram A.1) 21-25-28-30-32-34 times. Each time you have completed A.1A to A.1C once in height, continue with 2 more repeats of A.1B between A.1A and A.1C.

When you have increased a total of 21-25-28-30-32-34 times on the sleeves and 18-21-23-28-32-34 times on the front and back pieces, there will be 67-75-81-85-89-93 stitches on each sleeve, 76-84-90-102-112-122 stitches on the front and back pieces = 286-318-342-374-402-430 stitches in total. The yoke should now measure 17-20-22-23-24-25 cm / 6 3/4"-8"-8 3/4"-9"-9½"-9 3/4" from the neckline mid front and down. If the measurements are not correct, you need to continue with pattern on the sleeves and stockinette stitch on the front and back pieces until you get the right length.

The next round is worked as follows: Knit 38-42-45-51-56-61 stitches (= half the back piece), place the next 67-75-81-85-89-93 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches under the sleeve, knit the next 76-84-90-102-112-122 stitches (= front piece), place the next 67-75-81-85-89-93 stitches on a thread (= sleeve), cast on 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches under the sleeve, knit the last 38-42-45-51-56-61 stitches (= half the back piece).

BODY:
There are now 168-184-200-224-248-272 stitches on the body. Continue with stockinette stitch. Insert a marker thread in each side, in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 new stitches which were cast on under the sleeves. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! When the piece measures 3 cm / 1'' increase 1 stitch on each side of each marker thread – READ INCREASE TIP-2! Increase in this way approx. every 6th-7th-6th-7th-10th-15th round, 15-14-16-13-10-7 times = 228-240-264-276-288-300 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch until the piece measures 36-35-35-36-37-38 cm / 14 1/4"-13 3/4"-13 3/4"-14 1/4"-14½"-15". Now work 2 ridges. Then work pattern as follows: Work according to diagram A.2 (= 19-20-22-23-24-25 repeats of 12 stitches on the first round). On the next to last round of A.2 (the round with the star) increase 3-5-3-5-1-3 stitches evenly along the round = 307-325-355-373-385-403 stitches on the round. Work 2 ridges. Now work pattern as follows: Work A.3A (= 7 stitches), A.3B (= 6 stitches) until there are 6 stitches left on the round, A.3C (= 6 stitches). When you have completed the whole of diagrams A.3a to A.3c in height, work the repeat one more time in height. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work 2 ridges. Change back to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and bind off in knit.

SLEEVES:
Place the stitches from the thread back on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches which were cast on under the sleeve = 75-83-91-95-101-107 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the new stitches = mid under the sleeve. Continue with A.1B, the stitches which do not fit the pattern mid under the sleeve are worked in stockinette stitch. Continue with this pattern. When the piece measures 3 cm / 1'' start decreasing under the sleeve – READ DECREASE TIP. Decrease 2 stitches on each side of the marker thread, every 2nd round 0-0-0-4-5-6 times and 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread every 5th-3rd-2nd-2nd-2nd-2nd round 7-10-13-5-4-3 times = 61-63-65-69-73-77 stitches. The stitches that do not fit the pattern under the sleeve are worked in stockinette stitch. When the piece measures 15-13-12-10-10-9 cm / 6"-5"-4 3/4"-4"-4"-3½" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes due to wider shoulder measurements and longer sleeve cap) change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4. Work 2 ridges. Change back to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and bind off in knit. Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 19.02.2019
Correction - XXXL: You increase a total of 34 times = 122 sts on front and back pieces

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= knit
= purl
= 1 yarn over between 2 stitches, on the next round, knit the yarn overs from RS so that there are holes
= Knit 2 together
= Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1, pass the slipped stitch over
= Slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over
= increase round – see description in text.



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 178-47) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

Anx 23.08.2019 - 20:02:

Dzień dobry, robie sukienkę w rozmiarze L. Po dodaniu 3 oczek w rzędzie z gwiazdką mam 357 oczek, a nie 355. I nie rozumiem jak robic schematy A3? Jesli robie A3a i A3b na przemian i na koncu A3c, tak jak w opisie, ( ilosc oczek w sumie 357) to w kolejnym okrazeniu nie zgadza mi się wzór. Zamiast 3 oczek razem w co drugim mam 4.

DROPS Design 26.08.2019 kl. 08:55:

Witaj! Co do pierwszej części: Po przerobieniu schematu A.2 jest 352 o. (22 motywy po 16 o.), a po dodaniu 3 o. mamy razem 355 o. Jeśli schemat A.2 wychodził poprawnie, to musiała mieć miejsce jakaś pomyłka, ja w takim przypadku, albo cofam się do miejsca, gdzie ostatni raz miałam właściwą liczbę oczek i pruję (ale w przypadku ażuru nie polecam tej praktyki), albo po prostu zamykam 2 nadplanowe oczka i robię dalej. Co do schematu A.3: przerabiasz 1 raz schemat A.3a (7 o.), dalej 57 razy schemat A.3b i na końcu okrążenia 1 raz schemat A.3 c. Liczba oczek w schemacie A.3 po uwzględnieniu narzutów pozostaje cały czas taka sama czyli jest to 355 o. Powodzenia!

Magda 11.08.2019 - 13:18:

Jeszcze do poprzedniego pytania. Jeśli na przodzie i tyle dodałam oczka 23 razy, na rękawach wyszło mi 30 razy, a nie 28 jak w opisie.

DROPS Design 12.08.2019 kl. 18:10:

Witaj Magdo! Na rękawach musisz zakończyć dodawanie oczek jak tylko dodasz je w sumie 28 razy (razem z pierwszym dodawaniem oczek z początku opisu), nawet jeśli będziesz jeszcze musiała dodawać oczka na tyle i przodzie. Miłej pracy!

Magda 11.08.2019 - 13:15:

Cześć, robię sukienkę w rozmiarze L. Przerobiłam karczek i rękawy. Na przodzie i tyle mam 90 oczek, tak jak w opisie, ale na rękawach mam 87 oczek ( w opisie jest 81). Co zrobiłam źle? Czy oczko między narzutami należy do rękawa?

DROPS Design 12.08.2019 kl. 18:08:

Witaj Magdo! Oczka dodawane na reglan na rękawach są uwzględnione w schematach A1A i A1C. W rozmiarze L, co 2 okrążenia powinnaś dodać (nie musisz o tym specjalnie myśleć, są to po prostu te 2 skrajne narzuty w tych schematach) 2 o. na każdy rękaw w sumie 28 razy. Jeżeli początkowo rękaw miał 25 o. to plus (28x2 o.)= 25+56=81 o. na każdy rękaw. Oczko między narzutami należy do przodu/tyłu. Powodzenia!

Lisbeth Nielsen 25.03.2019 - 14:08:

Der er fejl i diagram A2. Omgang 29 og 30 skal ikke være der. Har strikket modellen flere gange og har selv undladt disse, men kan se at der stadig er denne fejl. Med venlig hilsen Lisbeth Nielsen

Susanne 12.02.2019 - 14:01:

Berichtigung zu meiner Frage: Ich stricke in xxxl. Die größte angegebene Größe. Sorry.

Susanne 12.02.2019 - 11:35:

Guten Tag. Ich stricke in Größe xxl. Die erste Angabe der Maschen nach der Raglanzunahme ist 93 Maschen pro Ärmel und 126 Maschen pro Vorder und Rückenteil. Soweit ok. Im nächsten Abschnitt sind aber nur 122 Maschen je Vorder und Rückenteil angegeben. Was bitte ist richtig? Ansonsten tolle Anleitung und sehr schönes Muster. Vielen lieben Dank.

DROPS Design 19.02.2019 kl. 09:03:

Liebe Susanne, es wird also nur 34 Mal für Rücken und Vorderteil zugenommen = 122 M - eine Korrektur erfolgt gleich. Danke für den Hinweis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Gitte Bryld 07.06.2018 - 21:42:

Kan det passe at diagramforklaring er ens for to tegn? / siger to masker ret sammen, men det gør \ også, mon ikke det ene \skal være 1 løst af, 1 ret, den løse over?

DROPS Design 08.06.2018 kl. 08:04:

Hej Gitte, så er det rettet, tusind tak for information! God dag! :)

Angelika 12.04.2018 - 20:13:

Danke für das schöne Modell! Ich bin fast fertig mit dem Kleid und es sieht ganz toll aus, hat eine schöne Passform und ist gut zu Stricken, die Anleitung ist für mich gut verständlich. Die Wolle Muskat hat ein sehr schönes Maschenbild und wirkt für bei dem Kleid sehr gleichmäßig und edel. Ich bin begeistert!

Cille Sigrun 26.03.2018 - 09:03:

Super lækker opskrift på en lækker kjole! :-)

Jos 28.02.2018 - 16:41:

Est-ce qu'il y a une moyen de tricoter ce morceau en commençant par le bas .

DROPS Design 28.02.2018 kl. 17:45:

Bonjour Jos, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir ajuster chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande. Vous pouvez recalculer/réécrire les explications si vous souhaitez le commencer par le bas. N'hésitez pas à demander de l'aide à votre magasin DROPS ou sur un forum de tricot si besoin. Bon tricot!

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