Summer Swing by DROPS Design

Top with lace pattern and raglan, worked bottom up in DROPS Muskat. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 178-32
DROPS design: Pattern r-711
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
400-400-450-500-550-600 g color 18, white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 and 60 cm / 32" and 24") SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or size needed to get 21 stitches and 28 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 3.5 mm/US 4 for sleeve and neck edge – or size needed to get 22 stitches and 30 rows in stockinette stitch = width 10 cm / 4'' and 10 cm / 4'' vertically.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Cotton
from 2.20 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge= knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

See diagrams A.1 to A.3.

To calculate how to decrease evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 272 stitches) and divide stitches by number of decreases to be done (e.g. 34) = 8. I.e. in this example knit approx. every 7th and 8th stitch together.

Decrease as follows: Begin 3 stitches before marker thread: Knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 8 stitches decreased on round).

Worked in the round on circular needle. Work sleeve edges in the round on double pointed needles.

Cast on 336-336-378-420-462-504 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Muskat. Work A.1 (= 21 stitches) 16-16-18-20-22-24 times in total on round. When entire A.1 has been worked vertically, 272-272-306-340-374-408 stitches remain on needle. Knit1 round while decreasing 34 stitches evenly - READ DECREASE TIP (evenly) = 238-238-272-306-340-374 stitches. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE Then work A.2 (= 34 stitches) 7-7-8-9-10-11 times. Continue this pattern and decrease as shown in diagrams. When entire A.2 has been worked vertically, 182-182-208-234-260-286 stitches remain on needle. Knit 1 row from right side while adjusting number of stitches to 168-184-200-220-248-272 (i.e. in size M increase 2 stitches. In size S, L, XL, XXL and XXXL decrease 14-8-14-12-14 stitches evenly). Continue in stockinette stitch. When piece measures 34-34-35-35-35-35 cm / 13½"-13½"-13 3/4"-13 3/4"-13 3/4"-13 3/4", work next round as follows: Work the first 38-42-45-50-56-61 stitches (= ½ back piece), bind off the next 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches for armhole, work the next 76-84-90-100-112-122 stitches (= front piece), bind off the next 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches, work the remaining 38-42-45-50-56-61 stitches (= ½ back piece). Put piece aside and work the sleeve edges.

Work sleeve edges in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 68-76-84-88-92-98 stitches on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Muskat. Work A.3 in the round. When A.3 has been vertically, work next round as follows: bind off the first 8-8-10-10-12-14 stitches (= under sleeves), knit the remaining stitches and decrease 1-0-0-0-0-1 stitch evenly = 59-68-74-78-80-83 stitches. Put piece aside and work another sleeve edge the same way.

Slip sleeve edges on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bound off = 270-304-328-356-384-410 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in all transitions between sleeves and body piece (= 4 marker threads). Continue in stockinette stitch, AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round, begin to decrease for RAGLAN – see explanation above! Decrease like this every other round 21-23-25-28-30-33 times in total = 102-120-128-132-144-146 stitches. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 and work A.3. On round marked with arrow in diagram decrease 2-14-18-16-24-20 stitches evenly = 100-106-110-116-120-126 stitches. Bind off when A.3 has been worked one time vertically.

Sew together holes under the sleeves. Fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 04.04.2017
On Yoke: Work after chart A.3, not A.4
Updated online: 21.04.2017
Pattern and diagram A.2 has been updated.
Updated online: 27.04.2017
Chart A.2 (row 41 updated).


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit
symbols = purl
symbols = 1 yarn over between 2 stitches
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 178-32) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (47)

country flag Maria Elena wrote:

Non ho eseguito il campione, ma ho usato il filo e i ferri indicati nel modello

22.04.2022 - 08:49

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Maria Elena, la tensione del campione è soggettiva, per cui se il suo campione dovesse essere diverso da quello indicato, anche la quantità di filato cambierebbe. Buon lavoro!

24.04.2022 kl. 16:34

country flag Annette Brakenhoff wrote:

Is A.4 gelijk aan A.3?

18.04.2022 - 22:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Annette,

Ja, dit mot inderdaad A.3 zijn. Het staat verkeerd in de tekst. Ik zal het doorgeven aan de ontwerpafdeling ter controle.

20.04.2022 kl. 11:01

country flag Maria Elena wrote:

Ho lavorato la taglia L ma segnato che sono necessari gr. 500 di filato anziché gr. 450

18.04.2022 - 18:59

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Maria Elena, il suo campione corrispondeva a quello indicato? Buon lavoro!

19.04.2022 kl. 21:26

country flag Marine wrote:

Bonjour Pouvez vous me dire ce que veux dire "l'étoile ".......*......dans le graphique (A 2) Il y en a deux ...une a la 15 e ligne et l'autre 36 e ligne MERCI pour vos explications

26.02.2022 - 07:58

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marine, je ne vois pas détoile dans A.2, mais au début du 15ème et du 51ème tour vous devez commencer le diagramme 1 maille avant, autrement dit tricotez le tour précédent jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 1 maille, et commencez le diagramme A.2 ainsi. Si j'ai mal compris votre question, pouvez-vous essayer de la reformuler différemment? Merci pour votre compréhension.

28.02.2022 kl. 09:13

country flag Marge Roberts wrote:

I just finished chart A1 at the bottom of the sweater and have 252 stitches instead of 272. Would it work if I just decreased 14 stitches to get to the 238 that the pattern requires and just go on from there, or should I rip back and ensure that I have the 272 stitches at the end of the chart?

18.08.2021 - 19:22

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Roberts, you can either decrease less stitches to get the required 238 sts to work A.2 or rip back to make sure A.1 will be worked over the correct number of stitches to the end. Happy knitting!

19.08.2021 kl. 08:03

country flag Edith Dahmen wrote:

Guten Tag Habe versucht dieses Top zu stricken, habe aber das Problem es ist viel zu groß. Meine Maschenprobe stimmt mit 22Ma. auf 10 cm überein, aber bei einem Anschlag von z.B. Gr. XL von 496 Ma. ist das doch viel zuviel. es sollten unter 89cm am Bund werden dann dürften doch nur ca. 390 Ma. sein. Ich habe die 496 Ma. angeschlagen mußte alles wieder auftrennen da viel zu groß. wo liegt mein Fehler?? Was habe ich falsch verstanden? LG

19.07.2021 - 13:45

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Dahmen, für dieses Topp ist die Maschenprobe 21 cm = 10 cm in der Breite; damit sind die 306 Maschen (nach A.1, für das Wellemuster braucht mehr Maschen als Glattrechts) sind ca 73 cm breit (doppelt gefaltet). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

19.07.2021 kl. 14:40

country flag Susanne Hansen wrote:

Er opskriften ajourført når den printes ud? Kan den strikkes i safran ?

23.06.2021 - 10:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Susanne. Opskriften er ajourført når den printes ud. Du kan dessvärre inte strikke den i Safran. Vill du byta garn måste du byta till ett annat garn i samma garngrupp, dvs garngrupp B. Se en översikt över våra garngrupper här. Mvh DROPS Design

24.06.2021 kl. 07:08

country flag Kim Nealous wrote:

The diagram for the Summer Swing, what measaurement is used? Because inches is way too big.

11.05.2021 - 17:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kim, the measurements on the schematic drawing are given in centimeters. Happy Crafting!

11.05.2021 kl. 22:44

country flag Joanne wrote:

How do I find the corrections charts

09.04.2021 - 05:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Joanne, if you printed the pattern after the date of the correction, online pattern is right. Happy knitting!

09.04.2021 kl. 07:59

country flag Bea wrote:

Dans A2, au 14eme rang, je ne comprends pas comment faire le triangle du début de rang. On a que 2 mailles au lieu de 3. Faut il a chaque fois augmenter une maille?

28.11.2020 - 14:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Bea, sur ce rang-là, vous commencez 1 m avant la fin du tour précédent: quand il reste 1 m du tour 13, faites 1 jeté (= nouvelle dernière maille du tour), glissez 1 m à l'end (= la dernière m), 2 m ens à l'end (= les 2 premières m de A.2), passez la m glissée par-dessus la m tricotée (= 1ère m de A.2), 1 jeté, continuez le diagramme et quand il reste 1 m avant le A.2 suivant, procédez de la même façon: la dernière m sera le jeté et sera tricotée avec les 2 premières m du A.2 suivant. Bon tricot!

30.11.2020 kl. 08:28

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