DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Christmas Calendar
DROPS 176-31
DROPS design: Pattern as-069
Yarn group C + C or E
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
125-150-150-175-200-200 g color 01, off white
125-150-150-175-200-200 g color 12, powder pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm / 24" and 32") SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 – or size needed to get 14 stitches and 18 rows in lace pattern with 2 strands = width 10 cm / 4" and 10 cm / 4" vertically.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 60 cm / 16" and 24") SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 - for garter stitch.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

GARTER STITCH (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. Choose diagram for your size.

INCREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeve):
Begin 1 stitch before marker, make 1 yarn-over, knit 2, 1 yarn-over. On next round knit yarn-over twisted to avoid holes.
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JUMPER:
Work front and back piece back and forth on circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 76-86-86-90-102-114 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 1 strand of each color (= 2 strands). Work 3 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 / US 9 and work next row from right side as follows: 4 edge stitches in garter stitch, * work A.1 (= 12-14-14-12-14-16 stitches), A.2 (= 2 stitches) *, repeat from *-* 4-4-4-5-5-5 times in total, work A.1 (= 12-14-14-12-14-16 stitches) and finish with 4 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 42-43-44-45-46-47 cm / 16½"-17"-17¼"-17¾"-18"-18½", insert 1 marker in each side (marks armholes). Continue to work until piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾". Now bind off the middle 20-22-22-22-24-24 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue with lace pattern and 4 edge stitches in garter stitch towards armhole and bind off 1 stitch on next row from the neck = 27-31-31-33-38-44 stitches remain on row for shoulder. Continue until piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½" and bind off - make sure to avoid a tight bind-off edge. Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on the same number of stitches as on back piece and work as back piece until piece measures 54-56-57-59-60-64 cm / 21¼"-22"-22½"-23¼"-23½"-25¼". Now slip the middle 14-16-16-16-18-18 stitches on 1 stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue with lace pattern and 4 edge stitches in garter stitch towards the armhole and bind off for neck at beginning of every row from the neck as follows: 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 2 times = 27-31-31-33-38-44 stitches remain for shoulder. Continue until piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26"-26¾"-27½" and bind off - make sure to avoid a tight bind-off edge. Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 28-30-30-32-34-34 stitches on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 1 strand of each color (= 2 strands). Work 3 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Switch to double pointed needles SIZE 5.5 mm/US 9 / US 9 and insert 1 marker at beginning of round (= mid under sleeve). Work in stockinette stitch. When piece measures 8-8-10-10-11-13 cm / 3"-3"-4"-4"-4½"-5", increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 3½-3-2½-2½-2-1½ cm / 1¼"-1⅛"-⅞"-⅞"-¾"-½" 11-12-13-13-14-15 times in total = 50-54-56-58-62-64 stitches. When piece measures 46-44-44-44-41-38 cm / 18"-17¼"-17¼"-17¼"-16"-15", loosely bind off all stitches. Make another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew side seams from markers at the armholes and down - sew in outer loops of edge stitches to avoid a chunky seam, but leave approx. 8 cm / 3⅛" at the bottom of each side for vents. Sew in sleeves.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up from right side approx. 60 to 74 stitches around the neck (including stitches on stitch holder at the front) on a short circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 1 strand of each color. Work 3 ridges but begin by purling 1 round and loosely bind off by knitting on last round.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
symbols = purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn-over
symbols = knit 2 together
symbols = slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
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Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Saskia wrote:

Hallo, ik heb een vraag over de te gebruiken naalden: in de beschrijving lees ik naalden zonder knop voor de mouwen. Waarom niet een rondbreinaald? Heb je alle naalden nodig die in de beschrijving staan? Ik lees nergens het gebruik van de 5,5 rondbreinaald? Dank, Saskia

30.10.2022 - 16:12

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Sasikia,

Je kan inderdaad ook een rondbreinaald gebruiken voor de mouwen, maar net wat je prettig vindt breien. Voor de ribbelsteek heb je naald 4,5 nodig. Na de ribbelsteek brei je verder met naald 5,5.

02.11.2022 - 15:01

country flag Monika Eisenbach wrote:

Hallo, jetzt muss ich doch nochmal was fragen. Bei den Halsausschnitten werden im Vorderteil die mittleren Maschen stillgelegt. Warum werden dann die im Rückenteil abgekettet und nicht auch stillgelegt?

02.12.2021 - 01:15

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Eisenbach, am Rückenteil werden die Maschen abgekettet, damit der Pullover seine Form besser behält (und nicht dehnt), am Vorderteil werden die Maschen stillgelegt um weniger Volumen und weichen Übergang zu haben. Aber gerne können Sie auch die Maschen am Rückenteil auch stilllegen oder die am Vorderteil abketten. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

08.12.2021 - 13:10

country flag Monika Eisenbach wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, jetzt muss ich doch mal nachfragen. In der Anleitung steht das man für den Halsausschnitt von der Vorderseite 60 - 74 Maschen aufnehmen soll. Ist das jetzt nur auf die Vorderseite bezogen (wäre ein bisschen viel nur für vorne) oder auch die Rückseite also das der Ausschnitt wie gewohnt rundherum geht? Ich nehme mal an das der Halsausschnitt rundherum geht. Vielen Dank und macht weiter so mit vielen tollen Strick- und Häkelideen. Viele Grüße Moni

16.11.2021 - 20:54

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Moni, diese 60 bis 74 Maschen werden von der Vorderseite (= damit "außen" Seite hier gemeint) rund den ganzen Halsausschnitt (Vorder- + Rückenteil) aufgenommen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.11.2021 - 07:45

country flag Barbara Blanche wrote:

Hola no tengo agujas circulares. Como puedo hacerlo con dos agujas comunes? Muchas gracias! tengo hilo de algodon para tejer en agujas 4 1/2 La pagina es genial

12.10.2020 - 16:52

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Barbara. Este jersey se trabaja de ida y vuelta, la espalda y el delantero por separado, por lo tanto puedes hacerlo con las agujas rectas. Las agujas circulares en este caso se utilizan para tener más comodidad; con un elevado número de puntos es más cómodo trabajar con una aguja circular que con agujas rectas.

15.10.2020 - 20:22

country flag Maria wrote:

Dzień dobry, Tył tego swetra ma taki sam wzór jak przód. Czy można zrobić gładki tył, po prostu przerabiając wszystkie oczka dżersejem? Dziękuję.

05.04.2020 - 11:40

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Mario! Oczywiście, że tak. Do dzieła i koniecznie pokaż nam efekt na naszej grupie na facebooku DROPS Workshop. Pozdrawiamy

06.04.2020 - 10:20

country flag Randi Lisø wrote:

Hvorfor har dere ikke størrelsesguide på denne genseren? Vanskelig å vite koss størrelse man bør velge.

25.02.2019 - 08:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Randi. Helt nederst, under diagrammet ligger en målskisse med alle plaggets mål i alle størrelser. Vi har nå kontrollert at dette er tilgjengelig, og det er det. God fornøyelse

25.02.2019 - 13:32

country flag Pipi wrote:

Gracias por vuestra ayuda. El trabajo que realizan es excelente.

11.01.2019 - 11:21

country flag Gitte Bøtcher wrote:

Hvor er diagrammet?

09.09.2018 - 21:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Gitte. Vi har for øyeblikket tekniske problemer med siden vår, dette medfører at diagrammer og bilder dessverre ikke lastes ordentlig. Vi jobber med å løse problemet, og siden vil være tilbake som normalt så snart som mulig. Du kan følge med på vår twitter eller facebookside for oppdateringer. Beklager dette

10.09.2018 - 11:51

country flag Suki wrote:

Jeg savner diagrammet til mønstret??

09.09.2018 - 20:24

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Suki Vi har for øyeblikket tekniske problemer med siden vår, dette medfører at diagrammer og bilder dessverre ikke lastes ordentlig. Vi jobber med å løse problemet, og siden vil være tilbake som normalt så snart som mulig. Du kan følge med på vår twitter eller facebookside for oppdateringer. Beklager dette

10.09.2018 - 12:50

Nella wrote:

I'm having trouble with the twisted yarn over increase for the sleeve. I keep getting holes. Has anyone done it with an easier increase like the knit 1 front and back? Wondering if that would work as well. Thank you Nella

17.03.2018 - 00:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Nella, you might try to substitute the increase with the kfb, but there will be a tiny bump (like the purl stitch) in its place. that might disrupt the pattern. I would suggest that instead of the kfb, try to pull the yarn thighter, when you do the yarnover, or do the increase by raising the yarn between two stitches of the previous row, and knit that twisted. Happy Knitting!

17.03.2018 - 12:32