Lobelia by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with raglan and cables, worked top down in ”Nepal”. Size S-XXXL.

Keywords: cable, jacket, long sleeves, round neck, top down, waist shaping

DROPS 171-14
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-235
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
All measurements in chart in cm. Conversion to inch - see page 4.
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
800-850-950-1050-1150-1250 g color no 6314, denim blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 for garter st - or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ROUND (blue), NO 612: 6 pieces for all sizes

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca

from 2.75 $ /50g

Order

	DROPS Nepal uni colour	2.75 $ /50g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order
	DROPS Nepal mix	2.90 $ /50g Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd	Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 44.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To calculate how often inc should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 97 sts), minus bands (e.g. 8 sts) and divide the remaining sts by no of inc to be done (e.g. 20) = 4.4. I.e. in this example inc 1 st alternately for every 4th and 5th st (and do not inc over bands).

INCREASE TIP-2 (body):
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st P by making a YO. On next row K YO twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN SLEEVE:
Inc 1 st after/before A.2 on sleeve by making a YO (= 2 sts inc on each sleeve). On next row P YOs to make holes.

RAGLAN BODY:
Inc first 2 sts before/after A.2 on front and back piece (= 8 sts inc in total), then inc 1 st before/after A.2 on front and back piece (= 4 sts inc in total).

Inc 2 sts before A.2 as follows:
Work until 1 st remains before A.2, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO.
Inc 2 sts after A.2 as follows:
1 YO, K 1, 1 YO.
NOTE: On next row P YOs closest A.2 to make holes. P the other YOs twisted to avoid holes.

Inc 1 st before/after A.2 as follows: Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row P YOs to make holes.

DECREASE TIP-1 (body):
Work until 4 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, K 4 (marker is between these sts), slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso. Repeat in the other side (= 4 sts dec).

DECREASE TIP-2 (sleeve):
Work until 2 sts remain before A.2, K 2 tog, A.2, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. I.e. band at the end of row seen from RS. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures (from cast-on edge and along the band):
SIZE S: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38 and 47 cm.
SIZE M: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38 and 47 cm.
SIZE L: 2, 12, 21, 31, 40 and 50 cm
SIZE XL: 2, 12, 21, 31, 40 and 50 cm
SIZE XXL: 2, 12, 22, 32, 42 and 52 cm
SIZE XXXL: 2, 12, 22, 32, 42 and 52 cm
Conversion to inch - see page 4.

BIND-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight bind-off edge you may use a needle ½ size larger.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 97-99-103-109-111-117 sts (includes 4 band sts in garter st in each side) on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above and inc 17-19-19-25-27-25 sts evenly on last row from RS - READ INCREASE TIP-1 = 114-118-122-134-138-142 sts. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8.
Now work an elevation in stockinette st in the back of neck as follows:
Work the first 61-63-67-73-77-79 sts, turn and work 16-16-20-20-24-24 sts, turn and work 20-20-24-24-28-28 sts, turn and work 24-24-28-28-32-32 sts, turn and work the rest of row. Then P 1 row with 4 band sts in garter st in each side. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES!
Now work pattern as follows from RS: 4 band sts in garter st, P 1, A.1 (= 4 sts) 2-2-2-3-3-3 times, P 1, K 1-2-2-1-2-3 (= left front piece), A.2 (= 8 sts on 1st row), K 14-14-16-16-16-16 (= sleeve), A.2, K 1-2-2-1-2-3, P 1, A.1 5-5-5-7-7-7 times, P 1, K 1-2-2-1-2-3, (= back piece) A.2, K 14-14-16-16-16-16 (= sleeve), A.2, K 1-2-2-1-2-3, P 1, A.1 2-2-2-3-3-3 times, P 1, 4 band sts in garter st. Work 1 row from WS the same way. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE
On next row from RS, beg inc for RAGLAN BODY and RAGLAN SLEEVE – see explanation above. NOTE: Inc differently on sleeves and body.
BODY:
Inc 2 sts every other row 4-4-5-6-7-9 times and 1 st every other row 11-14-14-14-15-14 times (= 15-18-19-20-22-23 times in total).
SLEEVES:
Inc like this every other row 15-18-19-20-22-23 times in total.

When all inc are done there are 250-278-294-318-342-362 sts on needle. Now work as follows from WS: Work the first 38-42-44-49-53-57 sts (= right front piece), slip the next 52-58-62-64-68-70 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 sts under sleeve, work the next 70-78-82-92-100-108 sts (= back piece), slip the next 52-58-62-64-68-70 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 sts under sleeve, work the remaining 38-42-44-49-53-57 sts (= left front piece). Piece measures approx. 15-17-18-19-21-22 cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7"-7½"-8 1/4"-8 3/4" along band.

BODY:
There are now 158-174-186-206-226-246 sts for body. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Continue pattern back and forth as before and insert a marker in the middle of the new sts under sleeve in each side.
Then dec in each side and in pattern as follows:
DECREASE IN THE SIDES:
When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 st on each side of marker in each side - READ DECREASE TIP-1 (body). Repeat dec every 8th row 2 times in total = 8 sts dec in total.
DECREASE IN PATTERN:
When piece measures 6 cm / 2 3/8'', dec 1 st P by P 2 tog in every section with P between 2 cables = 6-6-6-10-10-10 sts dec (i.e. dec 1-1-1-2-2-2 sts on each front piece and 4-4-4-6-6-6 sts on back piece).

When all dec are done, there are 144-160-172-188-208-228 sts on needle. When piece measures 15-15-16-16-16-16 cm / 6"-6"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"-6 1/4"'', inc 1 st P in every section where P sts were dec – READ INCREASE TIP-2 (= 6-6-6-10-10-10 sts inc) = 150-166-178-198-218-238 sts. On next row from RS inc 1 st P on each side of each cable = 18-18-18-26-26-26 sts inc on needle. Inc like this every 10th-10th-10th-14th-14th-14th row (= every 5th-5th-5th-7th-7th-7th row from RS) 7-7-7-5-5-5 times in total = 276-292-304-328-348-368 sts. When all inc are done, continue back and forth in pattern. When piece measures 56-56-57-57-57-57 cm / 22"-22"-22½"-22½"-22½"-22½'' – adjust to finish after 4th or 8th row in pattern, work 2 rows in stockinette st inside 4 band sts in garter st in each side. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and work 2 ridges. Bind off - READ BIND-OFF TIP.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.
Slip the 52-58-62-64-68-70 sts from stitch holder on double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and pick up 1 st in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 new sts cast on under sleeves = 58-64-70-72-78-82 sts. Insert a marker in the middle of the new sts. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE.
Now work A.2 (= 8 sts on 1st row) mid under sleeve (i.e. there are 4 sts of A.2 on each side of marker), work the remaining sts on round in stockinette st. When piece measures 4 cm / 1½'', dec 1 st on each side of A.2 - READ DECREASE TIP-2 (sleeve). Dec like this every 8th-6th-5th-4th-4th-4th round 11-14-15-19-18-19 times in total = 36-36-40-40-42-44 sts. When sleeve measures 48-47-46-45-44-44 cm / 19"-18½"-18"-17 3/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4'', switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work 2 ridges. Bind off. Make another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to left band.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..

Updated online: 21.10.2016
There are now 158-174-186-206-226-246 sts for body. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Continue pattern back and forth as before and insert a marker in the middle of the new sts under sleeve in each side. Then dec in each side and in pattern as follows:...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= K from RS, P from WS
	= P from RS, K from WS
	= 1 YO between 2 sts On next row K YOs to make holes.
	= K 3, pass first st worked over the other 2 so that this st is around the last 2 sts on right needle (= 1 st dec)
	= on this row work K between cables (i.e. there will be a ridge on this row) This is done so that texture will not contract
	= this st has been dec, skip square

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 171-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ).

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

2) What are the yarn groups?

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

8) What is a repeat?

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

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