DROPS / 171 / 36

Outlander by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS long jumper with vents in the sides in ”Alpaca Bouclé”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ab-067
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS ALPACA BOUCLÉ from Garnstudio
550-600-650-700-800-850 g color no 0517, gray

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 + 60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - for edges in garter st.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 3.65 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé uni colour DROPS Alpaca Bouclé uni colour 3.65 $ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca Bouclé mix DROPS Alpaca Bouclé mix 3.65 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 40.15$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

MEASURING TIP:
Because of the size of the garment all measurements must be done by holding the piece up otherwise the garment will be too long when worn.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec inside 5 edge sts in garter st in the sides on front and back piece. All dec are done from RS.
Dec as follows after 5 edge sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 1 st dec).
Dec as follows before 5 edge sts: Beg 2 sts before edge sts and K 2 tog (= 1 st dec).

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st inside 3 edge sts in garter st by making 1 YO. On next row work YO twisted to avoid holes - work inc sts in stockinette st.
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JUMPER:
Piece is worked back and forth on circular needle in parts and sewn tog when finished.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 110-116-124-132-140-150 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Alpaca Bouclé. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch back to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work in stockinette st with 5 edge sts in garter st in each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When piece measures 30 cm / 11 3/4'' - READ MEASURING TIP, dec 1 st in each side - READ DECREASE TIP (= 2 sts dec). Repeat dec when piece measures 50 cm / 19 3/4'' = 106-112-120-128-136-146 sts. When piece measures 65-67-69-71-73-74 cm / 25½"-26½"-27"-28"-28 3/4"-29"'', work 1 ridge back and forth over the outermost 7-8-10-12-13-15 sts in each side (work the other sts as before). Then bind off 4-5-7-9-10-12 sts at beg of next 2 rows for armholes = 98-102-106-110-116-122 sts. Continue in stockinette st with 3 edge sts in garter st in each side towards armholes. When piece measures 82-85-88-91-94-96 cm / 32 1/4"-33½"-34½"-35 3/4"-37"-37 3/4" - remember MEASURING TIP, slip sts on a stitch holder for diagonal shoulder at beg of every row from armhole (in each side) as follows: Slip 11-12-13-13-14-15 sts 2-2-3-2-2-3 times and then 13-13-0-14-15-0 sts 1 time on stitch holder. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 83-86-89-92-95-97 cm / 32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼''-37 3/8''-38 ¼'', bind off the middle 26-26-26-28-28-30 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to slip sts on stitch holder for diagonal shoulder. Cast in addition off 1 st on next row from neck. All sts have been bind off/slipped on stitch holder and piece measures approx. 85-88-91-94-97-99 cm / 33½"-34½"-35 3/4"-37"-38 1/4"-39" (measured from shoulder and down). Cut the yarn and repeat on the other shoulder.
Slip sts from stitch holder on one shoulder back on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. K 1 row from WS - NOTE. To avoid holes in transitions where sts were slipped on stitch holder pick up loop between 2 sts and K twisted tog with next st on needle. Then bind off with K from RS - make sure to avoid a tight bind-off edge. Repeat on the other shoulder.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as on back piece until piece measures 79-81-84-86-89-91 cm / 31"-32"-33"-34"-35"-35 3/4". Now slip the middle 14-14-14-16-16-18 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder
separately. Continue to bind off for neck at beg of every row from neck as follows: bind off 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 3 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 82-85-88-91-94-96 cm / 32 1/4"-33½"-34½"-35 3/4"-37"-37 3/4" , slip sts on a stitch holder for diagonal shoulder the same way as on back piece. When all sts have been bind off/slipped on stitch holder, piece measures approx. 85-88-91-94-97-99 cm / 33½"-34½"-35 3/4"-37"-38 1/4"-39" (measured from the top of shoulder). Slip sts on one shoulder back on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and K from WS as on back piece before binding off with K from RS. Repeat on the other shoulder.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 34-36-38-40-40-42 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Alpaca Bouclé. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and work 2 ridges. Switch back to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work in stockinette st with 3 edge sts in garter st in each side. When piece measures 7-7-7-7-7-9 cm / 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3½", inc 1 st in each side - READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc). Inc like this every 4-4-3½-3-2½-2 cm / 1½"-1½"-1 1/4"-1 1/8"-7/8"-3/4" 9-9-10-11-12-13 times in total = 52-54-58-62-64-68 sts. When piece measures 43-42-41-39-38-36 cm / 17"-16½"-16"-15 1/4"-15"-14 1/4", insert 1 marker in each side. Then work in stockinette st back and forth over all sts for 2-3-4-5-6-7 cm / 3/4"-1 1/8"-1½"-2"-2 3/8"-2 3/4" from markers (piece measures approx. 45-45-45-44-44-43 cm / 17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17 3/4"-17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17"). Bind off 5 sts at beg of the next 2 rows in each side, then bind off the remaining sts (make sure to avoid a tight bind-off edge). Make another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams inside bind-off edge.
Sew side seams – sew edge to edge in outer loops of edge sts but stop when approx. 25 cm / 9 3/4'' remain at the bottom in each side (= vent). Sew sleeve seams tog edge to edge in outer loops of edge stss from markers at the top of sleeve and down. Place sleeve in under edge in garter st along armhole in one side of piece and sew neatly along armhole and in the bottom of armhole - NOTE: Markers on sleeve should fit side seam on body. Sew in the other sleeve the same way.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up from RS approx. 70 to 88 sts around the neck (includes sts on stitch holder at the front) on short circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round, then bind off with K.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 171-36) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

Rosy 04.12.2019 - 09:25:

Bonjour, j’ai envie de tricoter ce modèle pour ma fille. En taille M. Mais ma fille est petite: 1m,56. Que me conseillez vous pour la longueur ? Le raccourcir ? Comment ? Merci d’avance pour votre réponse

DROPS Design 04.12.2019 kl. 10:02:

Bonjour Rosy, comparez les différentes mesures du schéma à un pull analogue dont elle aime la forme (et la longueur), pour trouver la taille (et ajuster la longueur si besoin). Bon tricot!

Mary Van Riel 14.10.2018 - 23:36:

Is het mogelijk om dit gewoon op normale naalden te breien. Hoe doe ik dat dan. Ik vind het model super, maar ik kan niet overweg met een rondbrei naald.\\r\\n\\r\\nIk zie het antwoord wel tegemoet, alvast bedankt \\r\\n\\r\\nGroet, Mary van Riel

Barbara Smith 26.08.2018 - 02:04:

What is the gauge for this pattern?

DROPS Design 26.08.2018 kl. 07:38:

Hi Barbara, The guages are written at the top of the patterns, to the right of the photo. So in this pattern, the guide is to use a circular needle size 4 mm, with a guage of 19 stitches x 25 rows of stocking stitch on10 x 10 cm. Happy knitting!

Nancy 16.02.2018 - 20:26:

Ik snap het patroon niet goed wat de ribbelrand betreft. Vanaf het begin brei je de 5 buitenste steken in ribbel. Klopt het dat je dit het hele pand blijft doen? Als ik de tekening bekijk lijkt het dat dat alleen de eerste 25 cm de bedoeling is, maar ik kan daar in het patroon niets van terug vinden.

DROPS Design 18.02.2018 kl. 14:17:

Hoi Nancy, Het klopt inderdaad dat de 5 ribbelsteken doorgaan over het hele pand. Op de eerste 25 cm komt een split, maar de ribbelsteken gaan wel gewoon door.

Anna 27.10.2017 - 18:30:

Sto lavorando la manica e sono arrivata al punto in cui dice "Quando il lavoro misura 43-42-41-39-38-36 cm, inserire 1 segno da ciascun lato. Proseguire a maglia rasata avanti e indietro su tutte le m per 2-3-4-5-6-7 cm dal segno (il lavoro misura ca.45-45-45-44-44-43 cm)"... vuol dire che non devo lavorare più le 3 maglie di vivagno? Grazie

DROPS Design 27.10.2017 kl. 19:24:

Buonasera Anna. Sì è corretto, da quel punto non deve più lavorare le 3 m vivagno ai lati. Questa parte della manica è quella che verrà cucita agli scalfi del davanti / dietro. Buon lavoro!

Ingrid 06.09.2017 - 21:58:

Venligst, skal de 5 kantmasker i retstrikning i hver side på ryg og forstykke strikkes på pind nr 4 efter der er skiftet til pind nr 5 for glatstrikning?

DROPS Design 07.09.2017 kl. 08:59:

Hej Ingrid, når du skifter til pinde 5 strikker du alle masker på pind 5. God fornøjelse!

Anna 09.03.2017 - 16:28:

Ho 98 maglie e sono arrivata al punto che dice: " trasferire sul ferma maglie 11-12-13-13-14-15 m 2-2-3-2-2-3 volte e poi 13-13-0-14-15-0 m 1 volta. "...non capisco...al primo ferro passo 1 maglie, al secondo ferro passo 11 maglie e al terzo ferro passo 13 maglie?

DROPS Design 09.03.2017 kl. 16:51:

Buongiorno Anna. Sì è corretto: sui ferri che iniziano dal lato dello scalfo, deve trasferire sul ferma maglie, la prima volta 11 m, la seconda 11 m, la terza 13 m (per la taglia S). Questo da entrambi i lati del lavoro.Buon lavoro!

Anna 08.03.2017 - 08:12:

Salve, sono arrivata al punto in cui dice :"Intrecciare ora 4-5-7-9-10-12 m all’inizio dei 2 ferri successivi per gli scalfi = 98-102-106-110-116-122 m."....devo intrecciare 4 m sia all'inizio che alla fine per 2 volte? se è così avrò 90 m...aiuto!!!!

DROPS Design 08.03.2017 kl. 08:19:

Buongiorno Anna. Quando intreccia le maglie, per la taglia S, ha 106 maglie sui ferri. Intreccia 4 maglie all' inizio dei 2 ferri successivi e così le rimangono 98 maglie sui ferri come indicato. Buon lavoro!

Freyja Dís Karlsdóttir 23.10.2016 - 19:36:

Having problems with this pattern, when i come to this part i have 106 sts. Slip 11-12-13-13-14-15 sts 2-2-3-2-2-3 times and then 13-13-0-14-15-0 sts 1 time on stitch holder. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 83-86-89-92-95-97 cm, cast off the middle 26-26-26-28-28-30 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then there will only be 1 st left for each shoulder and that just does not add up!

DROPS Design 24.10.2016 kl. 11:04:

Dear Mrs Dís Karlsdóttir, when you have slipped all sts on a st holder on each side + cast off an dec for neckline, all sts have been cast off/dec/slipped: 106 sts - (3x13 sts x 2sides= 78 sts on st holders) - (1x26 st + 2x1st = 28 sts for neckline) = 0 sts.

Susanna Janser 20.07.2016 - 16:06:

Sooo lovely😍

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