DROPS / 171 / 14

Lobelia by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with raglan and cables, worked top down in ”Nepal”. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ne-235
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
800-850-950-1050-1150-1250 g colour no 6314, denim blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm for garter st - or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ROUND (blue), NO 612: 6 pieces for all sizes

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 1.55 £ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 1.55 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 1.60 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.80£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To calculate how often inc should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 97 sts), minus bands (e.g. 8 sts) and divide the remaining sts by no of inc to be done (e.g. 20) = 4.4. I.e. in this example inc 1 st alternately for every 4th and 5th st (and do not inc over bands).

INCREASE TIP-2 (body):
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st P by making a YO. On next row K YO twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN SLEEVE:
Inc 1 st after/before A.2 on sleeve by making a YO (= 2 sts inc on each sleeve). On next row P YOs to make holes.

RAGLAN BODY:
Inc first 2 sts before/after A.2 on front and back piece (= 8 sts inc in total), then inc 1 st before/after A.2 on front and back piece (= 4 sts inc in total).

Inc 2 sts before A.2 as follows:
Work until 1 st remains before A.2, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO.
Inc 2 sts after A.2 as follows:
1 YO, K 1, 1 YO.
NOTE: On next row P YOs closest A.2 to make holes. P the other YOs twisted to avoid holes.

Inc 1 st before/after A.2 as follows: Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row P YOs to make holes.

DECREASE TIP-1 (body):
Work until 4 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, K 4 (marker is between these sts), slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso. Repeat in the other side (= 4 sts dec).

DECREASE TIP-2 (sleeve):
Work until 2 sts remain before A.2, K 2 tog, A.2, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. I.e. band at the end of row seen from RS. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures (from cast-on edge and along the band):
SIZE S: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38 and 47 cm.
SIZE M: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38 and 47 cm.
SIZE L: 2, 12, 21, 31, 40 and 50 cm.
SIZE XL: 2, 12, 21, 31, 40 and 50 cm.
SIZE XXL: 2, 12, 22, 32, 42 and 52 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 2, 12, 22, 32, 42 and 52 cm.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a needle ½ size larger.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 97-99-103-109-111-117 sts (incl 4 band sts in garter st in each side) on circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above and inc 17-19-19-25-27-25 sts evenly on last row from RS - READ INCREASE TIP-1 = 114-118-122-134-138-142 sts. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm.
Now work an elevation in stocking st in the back of neck as follows:
Work the first 61-63-67-73-77-79 sts, turn and work 16-16-20-20-24-24 sts, turn and work 20-20-24-24-28-28 sts, turn and work 24-24-28-28-32-32 sts, turn and work the rest of row. Then P 1 row with 4 band sts in garter st in each side. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES!
Now work pattern as follows from RS: 4 band sts in garter st, P 1, A.1 (= 4 sts) 2-2-2-3-3-3 times, P 1, K 1-2-2-1-2-3 (= left front piece), A.2 (= 8 sts on 1st row), K 14-14-16-16-16-16 (= sleeve), A.2, K 1-2-2-1-2-3, P 1, A.1 5-5-5-7-7-7 times, P 1, K 1-2-2-1-2-3, (= back piece) A.2, K 14-14-16-16-16-16 (= sleeve), A.2, K 1-2-2-1-2-3, P 1, A.1 2-2-2-3-3-3 times, P 1, 4 band sts in garter st. Work 1 row from WS the same way. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
On next row from RS, beg inc for RAGLAN BODY and RAGLAN SLEEVE – see explanation above. NOTE: Inc differently on sleeves and body.
BODY:
Inc 2 sts every other row 4-4-5-6-7-9 times and 1 st every other row 11-14-14-14-15-14 times (= 15-18-19-20-22-23 times in total).
SLEEVES:
Inc like this every other row 15-18-19-20-22-23 times in total.

When all inc are done there are 250-278-294-318-342-362 sts on needle. Now work as follows from WS: Work the first 38-42-44-49-53-57 sts (= right front piece), slip the next 52-58-62-64-68-70 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 sts under sleeve, work the next 70-78-82-92-100-108 sts (= back piece), slip the next 52-58-62-64-68-70 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 sts under sleeve, work the remaining 38-42-44-49-53-57 sts (= left front piece). Piece measures approx. 15-17-18-19-21-22 cm along band.

BODY:
There are now 158-174-186-206-226-246 sts for body. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Continue pattern back and forth as before and insert a marker in the middle of the new sts under sleeve in each side. Then dec in each side and in pattern as follows:
DECREASE IN THE SIDES:
When piece measures 4 cm, dec 1 st on each side of marker in each side - READ DECREASE TIP-1 (body). Repeat dec every 8th row 2 times in total = 8 sts dec in total.
DECREASE IN PATTERN:
When piece measures 6 cm, dec 1 st P by P 2 tog in every section with P between 2 cables = 6-6-6-10-10-10 sts dec (i.e. dec 1-1-1-2-2-2 sts on each front piece and 4-4-4-6-6-6 sts on back piece).

When all dec are done, there are 144-160-172-188-208-228 sts on needle. When piece measures 15-15-16-16-16-16 cm, inc 1 st P in every section where P sts were dec – READ INCREASE TIP-2 (= 6-6-6-10-10-10 sts inc) = 150-166-178-198-218-238 sts. On next row from RS inc 1 st P on each side of each cable = 18-18-18-26-26-26 sts inc on needle. Inc like this every 10th-10th-10th-14th-14th-14th row (= every 5th-5th-5th-7th-7th-7th row from RS) 7-7-7-5-5-5 times in total = 276-292-304-328-348-368 sts. When all inc are done, continue back and forth in pattern. When piece measures 56-56-57-57-57-57 cm – adjust to finish after 4th or 8th row in pattern, work 2 rows in stocking st inside 4 band sts in garter st in each side. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work 2 ridges. Cast off - READ CAST-OFF TIP.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.
Slip the 52-58-62-64-68-70 sts from stitch holder on double pointed needles size 5 mm and pick up 1 st in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 new sts cast on under sleeves = 58-64-70-72-78-82 sts. Insert a marker in the middle of the new sts. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE.
Now work A.2 (= 8 sts on 1st row) mid under sleeve (i.e. there are 4 sts of A.2 on each side of marker), work the remaining sts on round in stocking st. When piece measures 4 cm, dec 1 st on each side of A.2 - READ DECREASE TIP-2 (sleeve). Dec like this every 8th-6th-5th-4th-4th-4th round 11-14-15-19-18-19 times in total = 36-36-40-40-42-44 sts. When sleeve measures 48-47-46-45-44-44 cm, switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Work 2 ridges. Cast off. Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 21.10.2016
BODY:
There are now 158-174-186-206-226-246 sts for body. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Continue pattern back and forth as before and insert a marker in the middle of the new sts under sleeve in each side. Then dec in each side and in pattern as follows:...

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts On next row K YOs to make holes.
= K 3, pass first st worked over the other 2 so that this st is around the last 2 sts on right needle (= 1 st dec)
= on this row work K between cables (i.e. there will be a ridge on this row) This is done so that texture will not contract
= this st has been dec, skip square


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 171-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (58)

Lita 17.08.2019 - 00:38:

Hi. I am very frustrated. I have ripped out and ripped out until I can rip out no more. I have done the math over and over and written out your diagrams in plain English, but no matter how I try I cannot get your pattern to fit my 118 stitches (med) I have 14 stitches remaining before I get to the 4 band garter. HELP! I am about to give up!

DROPS Design 19.08.2019 kl. 09:14:

Dear Lita, work the first row in pattern as follows: 4 sts in garter st, P 1, A.1 (= 4 sts) 2 times, P1, K2 (= left front piece), A.2 (= 8 sts on 1st row), K14 (= sleeve), A.2, K2, P1, A.1 5times, P1, K2, (= back piece) A.2, K14 (= sleeve), A.2, K2, P1, A.1 2 times, P1, 4 sts in garter st = 4+1+(2 x 4 sts)+1+2+8 +14+8+2+1+(5x4 sts)+1+2+8+14+8+2+1+(2x4 sts)+1+4 = 4+1+8+1+2+8+14+8+2+1+ 20+1+2+8+14+8+2+1+8+1+4 = 118 sts. but since you will work a yo in first row in A.1.A.2 you will have on needle: 4+1+(2x4 sts+4 yos)+1+2+8+14 +8+2+1+(5x4 sts+5yos)+1+2+8+14+8+2+1+(2x4 sts+2yos)+1+4, but the yarn overs in diagrams do not count in the total number of stitches on the row. Happy knitting!

Lita 16.08.2019 - 23:12:

The A1 diagram has 5 squares - so 5 stitches. The A2 diagram has 9 squares - so 9 stitches. Why are you saying there are 4 and 8? This pattern is terribly confusing!

DROPS Design 19.08.2019 kl. 09:02:

Dear Lita, the number of stitches in A.1 and A.2 will vary from 4 to 5 /8 to 9: you first work over 4-8 stitches, then make 1 YO on first row = there are now 5-9 sts in each repeat, on 3rd row, you decrease 1 st (= 4th symbol) = there are again 4-8 sts. see also this vdieo. Happy knitting!

Lita 14.08.2019 - 19:55:

YOKE - from where says now work pattern as follows from RS - This does. It seem to work out. I have 118 sts. If I follow the pattern I would need to have 131 sts. Can you please explain? What am I doing wrong?

DROPS Design 15.08.2019 kl. 09:54:

Dear Lita, in diagrams A.1 and A.2 you will make 1 yarn over in each diagram for the small cable so that the number of stitches will increase every time you will work this row (= there are now 5 sts in each A.1 instead of 4 and 9 sts in each A.2 instead of 8), but on 3rd and 4th rows in diagrams, you should have again 4 sts in each A.1 and 8 sts in each A.2. Happy knitting!

Kim Oliver 09.08.2019 - 13:32:

Hi, please help! I keep finding I have extra stitches at the beginning and end of DPNs. Am working the sleeves,

Kim Oliver 11.07.2019 - 14:29:

At body increases every 10th row - I have done the arithmetic and don't think these should include side increases, just those on either side of the cables? Thanks for your ongoing help, Kim

DROPS Design 11.07.2019 kl. 14:55:

Dear Mrs Oliver, on body you increase first in the P-sections you first decreased (= 6 sts increased), then increase every 10th row on each side of the cables: 18 sts increased a total of 7 times. There were 144-160-172 sts + 6 + (18 sts x 7) = 276-292-304 sts in size S-M-L. Happy knitting!

Kim Oliver 07.07.2019 - 13:46:

Hallo again, just checking the pattern correction for the body. I cannot see what is different in the correction. Do I work straight for 4cm before beg my decreases? Many thanks, Kim

DROPS Design 07.07.2019 kl. 22:09:

Dear Kim, our pattern texts are updated immediately as there appears some correction - thats why you cant see any difference, i.e. pattern is correct, tab with correction details is for info what was corrected. Decreasing: after dividing piece you just continue with knitting pattern as before until piece measures 4 cm (from dividing); afterwards you start decreasing. Happy knitting!

Kim Oliver 19.06.2019 - 15:10:

Hello looking for advice with this pattern. I am knitting the smallest size and have charted the instructions starting at: ‘Now work pattern as follows from RS: 4 band sts in garter st, P 1, A.1 (= 4 sts) 2-2-2-3-3-3 times, P…’ the instructions that indicate where the garment is divided into sections, such as left front and then sleeve do not appear to be correct. Additionally, the instructions for increasing refer to A2 on raglan body and sleeve however if you read the pattern as

DROPS Design 19.06.2019 kl. 15:43:

Dear Mrs Oliver, in size S you will work and increase for raglan as follows: 4 band sts in garter st, P1, A.1 (= 4 sts) 2 times, P1, K1, increase for raglan on front piece here (= left front piece), A.2 (= 8 sts on 1st row), increase on sleeve here, K14 increase on sleeve here (= sleeve), A.2, increase on back piece here K1, P1, A.1 5 times, P1, K1, increase on back piece here (= back piece), A.2, K14, increase on sleeve here (= sleeve), A.2, increase on front piece hereK1, P1, A.1 2 times, P1, 4 band sts in garter st. - see increase on body and sleeve for your size. Happy knitting!

Kim Oliver 06.05.2019 - 16:00:

Thank you. I understand the way to read the diagram - it is the stitches in between that I am unsure about. On the WS how should I interpret the pattern? Do I use the same instructions and repeat the stitches except for the changes to diagram stitches? Should I be purling where I previously knitted? Thanks! Kim.

DROPS Design 06.05.2019 kl. 16:05:

Dear Mrs Oliver, the stitches between diagrams should be worked with K over K and P over P, ie where you worked at the end of RS row: P1, band sts, you will work band sts, K1 - and the sts worked K from RS will be P from WS. Happy knitting!

Kim Oliver 06.05.2019 - 12:30:

Yoke: 'Work one row from WS same way' - how do I read the instructions for the stitches between the chart. Do I begin : Band, P1, A1 - or do I change all purl stitches between the chart to knit?

DROPS Design 06.05.2019 kl. 14:48:

Dear Mrs Oliver, from WS work the diagrams reading from the left towards the right (= 2nd row = WS), and K over K, P over P remaining stitches (with the 4 front band sts in garter st as before). Read more about diagrams here. Happy knitting!

Kim Oliver 30.04.2019 - 15:33:

Yoke: First set of elevations, then a purl row. My garment suggests the next row should be knit, not purl after elevations have been worked. Am I wrong? Thanks - Kim

DROPS Design 30.04.2019 kl. 16:52:

Dear Mrs Oliver, the last short row on elevation is worked over 24-24-28-28-32-32 sts from WS, then turn and work from RS to the end of the row, turn and purl next row from WS over all sts (with 4 sts in garter st on each side), next row is now from RS. Happy knitting!

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