DROPS / 171 / 14

Lobelia by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with raglan and cables, worked top down in ”Nepal”. Size S-XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no ne-235
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
800-850-950-1050-1150-1250 g colour no 6314, denim blue

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 5 mm - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm for garter st - or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ROUND (blue), NO 612: 6 pieces for all sizes

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Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
Comments (51)

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 2.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 35.20£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced):
To calculate how often inc should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 97 sts), minus bands (e.g. 8 sts) and divide the remaining sts by no of inc to be done (e.g. 20) = 4.4. I.e. in this example inc 1 st alternately for every 4th and 5th st (and do not inc over bands).

INCREASE TIP-2 (body):
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st P by making a YO. On next row K YO twisted to avoid holes.

RAGLAN SLEEVE:
Inc 1 st after/before A.2 on sleeve by making a YO (= 2 sts inc on each sleeve). On next row P YOs to make holes.

RAGLAN BODY:
Inc first 2 sts before/after A.2 on front and back piece (= 8 sts inc in total), then inc 1 st before/after A.2 on front and back piece (= 4 sts inc in total).

Inc 2 sts before A.2 as follows:
Work until 1 st remains before A.2, 1 YO, K 1, 1 YO.
Inc 2 sts after A.2 as follows:
1 YO, K 1, 1 YO.
NOTE: On next row P YOs closest A.2 to make holes. P the other YOs twisted to avoid holes.

Inc 1 st before/after A.2 as follows: Inc 1 st by making a YO. On next row P YOs to make holes.

DECREASE TIP-1 (body):
Work until 4 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, K 4 (marker is between these sts), slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso. Repeat in the other side (= 4 sts dec).

DECREASE TIP-2 (sleeve):
Work until 2 sts remain before A.2, K 2 tog, A.2, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. I.e. band at the end of row seen from RS. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures (from cast-on edge and along the band):
SIZE S: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38 and 47 cm.
SIZE M: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38 and 47 cm.
SIZE L: 2, 12, 21, 31, 40 and 50 cm.
SIZE XL: 2, 12, 21, 31, 40 and 50 cm.
SIZE XXL: 2, 12, 22, 32, 42 and 52 cm.
SIZE XXXL: 2, 12, 22, 32, 42 and 52 cm.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge you may use a needle ½ size larger.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down.

YOKE:
Cast on 97-99-103-109-111-117 sts (incl 4 band sts in garter st in each side) on circular needle size 4.5 mm. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above and inc 17-19-19-25-27-25 sts evenly on last row from RS - READ INCREASE TIP-1 = 114-118-122-134-138-142 sts. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm.
Now work an elevation in stocking st in the back of neck as follows:
Work the first 61-63-67-73-77-79 sts, turn and work 16-16-20-20-24-24 sts, turn and work 20-20-24-24-28-28 sts, turn and work 24-24-28-28-32-32 sts, turn and work the rest of row. Then P 1 row with 4 band sts in garter st in each side. REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES!
Now work pattern as follows from RS: 4 band sts in garter st, P 1, A.1 (= 4 sts) 2-2-2-3-3-3 times, P 1, K 1-2-2-1-2-3 (= left front piece), A.2 (= 8 sts on 1st row), K 14-14-16-16-16-16 (= sleeve), A.2, K 1-2-2-1-2-3, P 1, A.1 5-5-5-7-7-7 times, P 1, K 1-2-2-1-2-3, (= back piece) A.2, K 14-14-16-16-16-16 (= sleeve), A.2, K 1-2-2-1-2-3, P 1, A.1 2-2-2-3-3-3 times, P 1, 4 band sts in garter st. Work 1 row from WS the same way. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION
On next row from RS, beg inc for RAGLAN BODY and RAGLAN SLEEVE – see explanation above. NOTE: Inc differently on sleeves and body.
BODY:
Inc 2 sts every other row 4-4-5-6-7-9 times and 1 st every other row 11-14-14-14-15-14 times (= 15-18-19-20-22-23 times in total).
SLEEVES:
Inc like this every other row 15-18-19-20-22-23 times in total.

When all inc are done there are 250-278-294-318-342-362 sts on needle. Now work as follows from WS: Work the first 38-42-44-49-53-57 sts (= right front piece), slip the next 52-58-62-64-68-70 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 sts under sleeve, work the next 70-78-82-92-100-108 sts (= back piece), slip the next 52-58-62-64-68-70 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 sts under sleeve, work the remaining 38-42-44-49-53-57 sts (= left front piece). Piece measures approx. 15-17-18-19-21-22 cm along band.

BODY:
There are now 158-174-186-206-226-246 sts for body. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Continue pattern back and forth as before and insert a marker in the middle of the new sts under sleeve in each side. Then dec in each side and in pattern as follows:
DECREASE IN THE SIDES:
When piece measures 4 cm, dec 1 st on each side of marker in each side - READ DECREASE TIP-1 (body). Repeat dec every 8th row 2 times in total = 8 sts dec in total.
DECREASE IN PATTERN:
When piece measures 6 cm, dec 1 st P by P 2 tog in every section with P between 2 cables = 6-6-6-10-10-10 sts dec (i.e. dec 1-1-1-2-2-2 sts on each front piece and 4-4-4-6-6-6 sts on back piece).

When all dec are done, there are 144-160-172-188-208-228 sts on needle. When piece measures 15-15-16-16-16-16 cm, inc 1 st P in every section where P sts were dec – READ INCREASE TIP-2 (= 6-6-6-10-10-10 sts inc) = 150-166-178-198-218-238 sts. On next row from RS inc 1 st P on each side of each cable = 18-18-18-26-26-26 sts inc on needle. Inc like this every 10th-10th-10th-14th-14th-14th row (= every 5th-5th-5th-7th-7th-7th row from RS) 7-7-7-5-5-5 times in total = 276-292-304-328-348-368 sts. When all inc are done, continue back and forth in pattern. When piece measures 56-56-57-57-57-57 cm – adjust to finish after 4th or 8th row in pattern, work 2 rows in stocking st inside 4 band sts in garter st in each side. Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm and work 2 ridges. Cast off - READ CAST-OFF TIP.

SLEEVE:
Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles.
Slip the 52-58-62-64-68-70 sts from stitch holder on double pointed needles size 5 mm and pick up 1 st in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 new sts cast on under sleeves = 58-64-70-72-78-82 sts. Insert a marker in the middle of the new sts. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE.
Now work A.2 (= 8 sts on 1st row) mid under sleeve (i.e. there are 4 sts of A.2 on each side of marker), work the remaining sts on round in stocking st. When piece measures 4 cm, dec 1 st on each side of A.2 - READ DECREASE TIP-2 (sleeve). Dec like this every 8th-6th-5th-4th-4th-4th round 11-14-15-19-18-19 times in total = 36-36-40-40-42-44 sts. When sleeve measures 48-47-46-45-44-44 cm, switch to double pointed needles size 4.5 mm. Work 2 ridges. Cast off. Knit another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the buttons on to left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 21.10.2016
BODY:
There are now 158-174-186-206-226-246 sts for body. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE. Continue pattern back and forth as before and insert a marker in the middle of the new sts under sleeve in each side. Then dec in each side and in pattern as follows:...

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts On next row K YOs to make holes.
= K 3, pass first st worked over the other 2 so that this st is around the last 2 sts on right needle (= 1 st dec)
= on this row work K between cables (i.e. there will be a ridge on this row) This is done so that texture will not contract
= this st has been dec, skip square


Kim Oliver 06.05.2019 - 16:00:

Thank you. I understand the way to read the diagram - it is the stitches in between that I am unsure about. On the WS how should I interpret the pattern? Do I use the same instructions and repeat the stitches except for the changes to diagram stitches? Should I be purling where I previously knitted? Thanks! Kim.

DROPS Design 06.05.2019 kl. 16:05:

Dear Mrs Oliver, the stitches between diagrams should be worked with K over K and P over P, ie where you worked at the end of RS row: P1, band sts, you will work band sts, K1 - and the sts worked K from RS will be P from WS. Happy knitting!

Kim Oliver 06.05.2019 - 12:30:

Yoke: 'Work one row from WS same way' - how do I read the instructions for the stitches between the chart. Do I begin : Band, P1, A1 - or do I change all purl stitches between the chart to knit?

DROPS Design 06.05.2019 kl. 14:48:

Dear Mrs Oliver, from WS work the diagrams reading from the left towards the right (= 2nd row = WS), and K over K, P over P remaining stitches (with the 4 front band sts in garter st as before). Read more about diagrams here. Happy knitting!

Kim Oliver 30.04.2019 - 15:33:

Yoke: First set of elevations, then a purl row. My garment suggests the next row should be knit, not purl after elevations have been worked. Am I wrong? Thanks - Kim

DROPS Design 30.04.2019 kl. 16:52:

Dear Mrs Oliver, the last short row on elevation is worked over 24-24-28-28-32-32 sts from WS, then turn and work from RS to the end of the row, turn and purl next row from WS over all sts (with 4 sts in garter st on each side), next row is now from RS. Happy knitting!

Bonita Poirier 04.04.2019 - 19:22:

Please disregard previous question. I tried to delete it but could not. Thank you!

Bonita Poirier 04.04.2019 - 18:32:

I have tried to alter the pattern to a size between what is given in the instructions. I am now at the part where I need to divide for sleeves. I am unable to tell from pictures whether or not the pattern on the raglan continues down the sleeve. I.e. when setting aside the stitches for the sleeve, are the pattern raglan stitches included? One raglan - from the front, or back or both?

DROPS Design 05.04.2019 kl. 09:10:

Dear Mrs Poirier, when you divide piece for sleeves the raglan stitches will be divided in two, one part for sleeve and one part for front/back pieces, ie you divide in the middle of the raglan stitches. Happy knitting!

Ingrid 08.02.2019 - 10:31:

In A1, the K between cables instead of P, is this every 11th row until the end? Thank you

DROPS Design 08.02.2019 kl. 11:59:

Dear Ingrid, correct, you will K the sts between cables every 11 row, ie every time you work row 11 in A.1 to the end. Happy knitting!

Chris Durb 27.01.2019 - 22:18:

BODY: Inc 2 sts every other row 4-4-5-6-7-9 times and 1 st every other row 11-14-14-14-15-14 times ; Do I knit all 2 sts increase rows (row 1, 3, 5, 7 for Small) before I start the inc 1 st (for example starting with row 9 for small? Or am I to alternate 2 sts inc with the 1 st increase rows?

DROPS Design 28.01.2019 kl. 12:03:

Dear Mrs Durb, on the first increase row in size S, inc 2 sts on front pieces + on back piece and only 1 st on sleeves (=12 sts inc) 1 time, then inc 1 st on body and sleeves (= 8 sts inc) on every other round. Happy knitting!

Ulla Steensen 22.09.2018 - 14:20:

Hej med jer. På denne skønne trøje driller den første mønsterpind. Rigtigt antal masker på pinden, men hvor tæller man mønster A1 og A2 fra (på diagrammerne), når de skal være hhv. 4 og 8 masker? De er hhv. 5 og 9 masker på diagrammerne. Kort sagt, hvor mange vrangmasker fra retsiden skal der være mellem snoningerne? Jeg kan ikke få fordelingen på 1. mønsterpind til at passe. Kan I hjælpe? Mange tak. Venlig hilsen Ulla

DROPS Design 24.09.2018 kl. 11:04:

Hej Ulla, Første pind i A.1 består af 4 masker (den sorte rude hopper du bare over), du starter nederst i diagrammet og strikker fra højre mod venstre. For hver gang du strikker disse 4 masker tager du 1 maske ud imellem de 2 masker ret. På 3.pind tages omslaget ind igen ved at strikke ifølge diagramsymbolet som strækker sig over de 3 midterste masker. God fornøjelse!

Inge 16.04.2018 - 14:32:

Brei nu een ronding op het achterkant in tricotst als volgt: Brei de eerste 61-63-67-73-77-79 st, keer en brei 16-16-20-20-24-24 st, keer en brei 20-20-24-24-28-28 st, keer en brei 24-24-28-28-32-32 st, keer en brei de rest van de nld. Brei dan 1 nld av met 4 voorbies st in ribbelst aan elke kant. DENK OM DE KNOOPSGATEN! Ik snap hem niet helemaal, moet ik mijn werk in twee delen…?

DROPS Design 21.04.2018 kl. 13:13:

Hallo Inge, Nee, je hoeft het werk niet in tweeën te delen. Wat je doet is verkorte toeren breien, waardoor er een verhoging aan de achterkant van het werk ontstaat. Op die manier het achterpand wat hoger dan het voorpand, voor een betere pasvorm.

Federica 30.03.2018 - 15:38:

Sto facendo una taglia M, sto finendo lo sprone ma non mi tornano i conti, ho 292 maglie e non 278. Anche il conteggio della manica non torna. Si parte con 14 m, 18 aumenti x 2 m. = 36 aumenti. 36 +14 = 50 e non 58 come indicato. Devo forse aggiungere 2 metà del diagramma A2? Come divido le altre maglie visto che i conti non tornano? Il Diagramma A2 va diviso sia sul davanti e dietro che sulle maniche?. Grazie della cortesia con cui rispondete e cordiali saluti.

DROPS Design 01.04.2018 kl. 11:09:

Buongiorno Federica. Il numero delle maglie è corretto. Per la taglia M inizia con 118 maglie. Sul davanti dietro aumenta 8 m 4 volte poi 4 m 14 volte. Sulle maniche aumenta 2 m 18 volte. Quindi 118+32+56+36+36=278. Divide poi le maglie come indicato. Buon lavoro!

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