DROPS / 171 / 42

Weekend Walk by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with vents in the sides in "BabyAlpaca Silk" and "Kid-Silk". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no bs-109
Yarn group A + A or C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
300-350-350-400-450-500 g color no 7820, green
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio
125-150-150-175-175-200 g color no 18, apple green

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5 mm/US 8 – or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand of each yarn (= 2 strands) = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm/US 7 – for garter st.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON ARCHED (white), NO 522: 6-6-6-6-7-7 pieces

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 4.75 $ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 4.75 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order

75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.80 $ /25g
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 5.80 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Kid-Silk long print DROPS Kid-Silk long print 5.80 $ /25g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 57.50$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

DECREASE TIP-1:
Dec inside 1 edge st in garter st. All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows before 1 edge st: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after 1 edge sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

DECREASE TIP-2 (applies to neck):
Dec inside 5 band sts in garter st. All dec are done from RS!
Dec as follows after 5 band sts: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows before 5 band sts: K 2 tog.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc inside 1 edge st in garter st. All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row P YO twisted to avoid holes.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog third and fourth st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 11, 19, 27, 35, 43 and 51 cm
SIZE M: 11, 20, 28, 36, 44 and 52 cm
SIZE L: 11, 20, 28, 37, 45 and 54 cm
SIZE XL: 11, 20, 29, 38, 47 and 56 cm
SIZE XXL: 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, 50 and 58 cm
SIZE XXXL: 11, 19, 27, 35, 43, 51 and 59 cm
Conversion to inch - see page 4.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts. Cast on 90-98-104-112-124-134 sts on needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 1 strand BabyAlpaca Silk and 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work next row from RS as follows: 4 sts in garter st, stockinette st until 4 sts remain, finish with 4 sts in garter st. Continue like this - REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 14 cm / 5½'', cast on 1 edge st in each side at the end of the next 2 rows = 92-100-106-114-126-136 sts. Then work in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side of piece. When piece measures 19 cm / 7½'', dec 1 st in each side - READ DECREASE TIP 1! Repeat dec when piece measures 38 cm / 15'' = 88-96-102-110-122-132 sts. When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-65 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-25½'', bind off for armhole in each side on every other row as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-1-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 0-0-2-2-4-6 times = 82-86-88-92-96-98 sts. When piece measures 69-72-75-78-81-83 cm / 27 1/8''-28 3/8''-29½''-30¾''-32''-32¾'', work 3 ridges over the middle 26-26-28-30-30-32 sts (work rest of sts as before) then bind off the middle 16-16-18-20-20-22 sts for neckline and finish each shoulder separately. Then dec 1 st inside 5 sts in garter st on next row towards neck = 32-34-34-35-37-37 sts. Bind off when piece measures 75-78-81-84-87-89 cm / 29½"-30 3/4"-31½"-33"-34 1/4"-35". Work the other shoulder the same way.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 50-54-57-61-67-72 sts (includes 5 band sts) on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 1 strand BabyAlpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 3 ridges. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work next row from RS as follows: 5 band sts in garter st, stockinette st until 4 sts remain, finish with 4 sts in garter st - REMEMBER BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above. Continue like this. When piece measures 14 cm / 5½'', cast on 1 edge st at the end of next row from RS = 51-55-58-62-68-73 sts. Continue in stockinette st with 5 band sts in garter st and 1 edge st in garter st in the side. When piece measures 19 cm / 7½", dec 1 st in the side. Repeat dec when piece measures 38 cm / 15'' = 49-53-56-60-66-71 sts.
When piece measures 51-52-54-56-58-59 cm / 20"-20½"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4"-23 1/4", dec for neck as follows: Dec 1 st inside 5 band sts in garter st - READ DECREASE TIP-2. Repeat dec alternately on every 4th and every other row 14-14-15-16-16-17 times in total - AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-65 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-25½'' bind off for armhole at beg of every row from WS as on back piece. When bind off for armhole and dec neck are done, there are 32-34-34-35-37-37 sts on needle. Continue in stockinette st with 5 band sts in garter st. Bind off when piece measures 75-78-81-84-87-89 cm / 29½"-30 3/4"-31½"-33"-34 1/4"-35".

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right front piece but reversed. I.e. Bind off for armhole at beg of row from RS. Dec for neck inside band sts at the end of row from RS. Do not dec for buttonholes.

SLEEVE:
The sleeve is worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 35-36-37-39-42-42 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 1 strand BabyAlpaca + 1 strand Kid-Silk (= 2 strands). Work 3 ridges. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and work in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 8-7-10-8-8-11 cm / 3"-2 3/4"-4"-3"-3"-4½", inc 1 st on each side – see INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 2-2-1½-1½-1½-1 cm / 3/4"-3/4"-½"-½"-½"-3/8" 16-17-18-19-19-21 times in total = 67-70-73-77-80-84 sts. When piece measures 42-41-40-39-37-36 cm / 16½"-16"-15 3/4"-15 1/4"-14½"-14 1/4" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side as follows: bind off 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-0-1-4-8-9 times, then bind off 3 sts in each side until piece measures approx. 47 cm / 18½''. Bind off. Make another sleeve.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve seams and side seams in one inside 1 edge st down to ridges in the sides (= 14 cm / 5½'' vent). Sew the buttons on to the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 31.08.2016
LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as right front piece but reversed. I.e. bind off for armhole at beg of row from RS. Dec for neck inside band sts at the end of row from RS. Do not dec for buttonholes.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 171-42) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (28)

Anna 04.10.2019 - 13:15:

Hej, hvorfor skal man strikke 6 pinde retstrik over de midterste 26 m (ryg str M) ?

DROPS Design 07.10.2019 kl. 08:30:

Hei Anna. De 6 pinner med retstrik som strikkes over de 26 maskene på ryggen er halskanten. Når du har strikket de 6 pinnen, felles det 16 masker midt på. Da har du 5 masker igjen på hver side, disse strikkes også i retstrikk og det felles 1 maske innenfor disse 5 maskene. Slik får du en bakside som er lik de 5 kantmaskene du ser i front. God Fornøyelse!

Renée Lamonde 09.02.2019 - 02:33:

Cela fait plusieurs patron que je regarde et je ne comprend pas la deuxième couleur à quoi elle sert. Sommes-nous obliger de la mettre car je ne vois pas son utilité. J'ai beau regarder le motif,,, il n'y a aucun changement de couleur. Merci!

DROPS Design 09.02.2019 kl. 22:00:

Bonsoir Renée. Le gilet est tricoté avec 1 fil de chaque qualité (baby alpaca silk et kid-silk) ensemble, c’est-à-dire avec deux fils. Bon tricot!

Judy 20.10.2018 - 03:33:

I am ready to cast off sleeve and do not understand the instruction to cast off three stitches in each side until sleeve measures 47 cm. How many stitches remain at the point of cast off?

DROPS Design 22.10.2018 kl. 08:09:

Dear Judy, this will depend on your tension, cast off 3 sts at the beg of each row (both from RS and from WS) until sleeve measures 47 cm - make sure to have the same number of cast off on each side, then cast off all remaining sts. Happy knitting!

Renata 03.09.2018 - 20:16:

Witam, mam pytanie odnośnie zamykanie oczek rękawów. W opisie jest zapisane, że po zamknięciu pierwszych 3 o. dalej zamykać 3 o. z każdej strony aż długość rękawa wyniesie 47 cm. Czy mam zamknąć kolejne 3 o. jeden razy czy wielokrotnie? A jeśli wielokrotnie to w jakich odstępach i ile razy?

DROPS Design 03.09.2018 kl. 21:58:

Witaj Renato! Zamykamy na początku każdego rzędu z każdej strony (raz na prawej i raz na lewej stronie robótki). Zamykamy w ten sposób 3 o., tyle razy ile konieczne, aż długość rękawa wynosi 47 cm. Powodzenia!

Joe 23.06.2018 - 22:54:

Je viens de terminer ce modèle. Un très beau rendu et il est vraiment agréable à tricoter. J'ai ajouté une poche. Merci beaucoup.

Joe 16.06.2018 - 10:47:

Bonjour - J'ai un doute concernant les manches : "puis rabattre 3 m de chaque côté jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure environ 47 cm. " Est-ce qu'il faut rabattre une fois 3 m de chaque côté et continuer sur toutes les mailles OU rabattre 3 m tous les 2 rangs jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure environ 47 cm. Merci

DROPS Design 18.06.2018 kl. 08:03:

Bonjour Joe, on rabat 3 m de chaque côté = 3 m au début de chaque rang sur l'endroit et sur l'envers (= 3 m de chaque côté tous les 2 rangs) jusqu'à ce que la manche mesure 47 cm. Bon tricot!

Stéphanie 31.05.2018 - 15:20:

Bonjour, Mon échantillon de 17m et 22 rangs ne fait que 8cm de large et 9cm de haut... Faut-il que je prenne des aiguilles plus grosses ou alors que je tricote la taille supérieure pour être sûre d'avoir un gilet qui convienne ? Merci d'avance de votre réponse.

DROPS Design 31.05.2018 kl. 15:31:

Bonjour Stephanie, essayez sur les aiguilles plus grosses. Bon travail!

Beatrix 01.05.2018 - 16:03:

Ich möchte diese Jacke stricken - jedoch nur mit einem Garn, dem Baby Alpaca Silk. Geht das? Und wenn ja, benötige ich in dem Fall für Gr. M 350 g, einfach nur von dieser Qualität?

DROPS Design 02.05.2018 kl. 10:22:

Liebe Beatrix, diese Jacke wird mit 2 Fäden gestrickt: 1 x BabyAlpaca Silk und 1 x Kid-Silk. Der Faden Kid-Silk können Sie durch 1 Faden BabyAlpaca Silk ersetzen und so mit 2 Fäden BabyAlpaca Silk stricken. Hier lesen Sie mehr über Garnalternativen und rechnen (Garnumrechner können Sie auch benutzen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Karen Hogben 04.02.2018 - 20:40:

I am a size 22 (UK) what size do I look for on this pattern (if it goes up to that size)

DROPS Design 05.02.2018 kl. 09:57:

Dear Mrs Hogben, you will find a measurement chart at the bottom of the pattern, they are taken flat from side to side. Compare these to a similar garment you have and like the shape to find out the matching size. Read more about sizing here. Happy knitting!

Bente Kjærgaard 21.11.2017 - 20:47:

Jeg synes det er let at forstå rykken til sidst Der strikkes 6 pinde ret over 26 Masker og lukkes 16. Skal de øvrige masker strikkes frem og tilbage

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